corksport said?

[bmannn]

Just called them. They said I could install intake , racepipe and cat back without a fuel pump or tune. even told me I could install a dowm pipe too.

Are they just looking for sales?

I wanna be safe.

[r0cknry]

From the general consensus i've gathered on here it seems as though the intake, racepipe and CBE are okay without upgraded fuel pump and tune, but your probably going to want to upgrade your fuel pump if you go the downpipe route.
But hey what the hell do I know lol

[EvilMonkey]

They are a very trustworthy company. Likely they have experimented with this before. DP seems to be a little sketchy though. I hope you have a strong stock FP. lol. If you wanna be safe do the sri+tip. Its a great ...scratch that....fantastic mod for this car! The stock TIP is a pancake! MMMMM pancakes! You can get away with the testpipe because it just removes a cat and its not censored so you will be fine on the CEL side. I had a testpipe/catback (magnaflow) installed before my AP and no issues. Not a big gain at all though. So I went back to stock and it feels the same if not a tad better actually.

[wankular]

Do the 2011's have any way to log fuel pressure yet? If so, you could get a downpipe and monitor it. If not, you should wait.

[manelscout4life]

I had a sri and fmic and needed a fp. I would take their advice with a grain of salt

[myslow1]

cobb says removing the cat requires a stage2 tune and stage2 requires a hpfp.

[dizzydtrain]

I would listen to Cobb and the research they did on the Pu's. I believe some people reported on fuel pressure drops from just an intake...although this might be a rare occurrence.

With that said, I would rather be safe than sorry if you are going to mod your car. I am sure intake and tp is fine but make sure you can monitor the fuel pressure somehow. Once you go after the dp and intercooler upgrades, definitely make sure you have a fuel pump. It's not worth the risk imho without proper failsafe mods.

Oh yeah, make sure you donate.

[manelscout4life]

I know a genpu owner who with just the corksport intake + inlet and the ap now needs a fp.

[DONOTBUGME]

if you wanna run the Ap to it's full potential you need a fp. I had intake/tip/ets tmic/ tp/ with no fp problems. You can use an ultra gauge to monitor fp, it doesn't log but you can watch it and it will show any significant fp drops. It may not show the really fast dips though.

[Nataphen]

2011 AP is almost out, just wait and get that before any hardware. You need to monitor your mods on this car, they can be finicky and there's no way to tell what one car is going to do compared to another. Be smart about it and monitor first.

[Tokay444]

A cbe isn't gonna do anything aside from chane your sound signature.
And to add, I haven't seen any proof that TIP actually grants any gains at all.

[Nataphen]

Originally Posted by Tokay444 Who said anything about removing a catalyst? A cbe isn't gonna do anything aside from chane your sound signature.

A race pipe (RP) removes the second cat.

[Tokay444]

Yeah sorry about that. I'm retarded today. I edited my post when I realized.

[Post pwned]

Why not just get the fuel pump or internal first, then you can mod worry free..


Why ninjas be so drawnin on gettin dem fuel pumps upgraded, cuz ain't no power gain?

Get over it....

[SpeedSixxx]

Originally Posted by manelscout4life I had a sri and fmic and needed a fp. I would take their advice with a grain of salt

fmic ... you would need a fp....

Originally Posted by myslow1 cobb says removing the cat requires a stage2 tune and stage2 requires a hpfp.

funny cause I had my second cat deleted 2 years ago with an intake and ported IM and no issues..

no tune...

no fp...

Originally Posted by Tokay444 A cbe isn't gonna do anything aside from chane your sound signature. And to add, I haven't seen any proof that TIP actually grants any gains at all.

i'm amazed I thanked you...

and I had ther 2.5 inch tip on my car...

sold it cause of 35r...

car felt faster with stock tip reinstalled... lol

oh... didnt realize this is meant for 2010+

[spoof3r]

I ran the CS TIP/SRI, 80mm CBE with secondary cat test pipe, and I didn't have any problem. Fuel pump pressure was always in the safe zone, but still not 1700+psi.

I think you'll be fine but you really have to watch that downpipe. Same with FMIC - they promote boost creep.

[manelscout4life]

Originally Posted by SpeedSixxx fmic ... you would need a fp....

I was fine for 4 months, then when the boost tuning came out for the AP my tune became more aggressive and it was necessary. The FP vary for every car.

[forcedinduktion]

ive been runnin a sti and rp for a few months now and no issues

[Tokay444]

Originally Posted by forcedinduktion ive been runnin a sti and rp for a few months now and no issues

???

[manelscout4life]

he probably meant sri

[myslow1]

Originally Posted by SpeedSixxx funny cause I had my second cat deleted 2 years ago with an intake and ported IM and no issues.. no tune... no fp...

cool story bro!

here's a banana.

[forcedinduktion]

Yes I meant sri, you know what i meant smart ass.

[Tokay444]

Lol.
Smart ass=natural predator of dumb ass.

[forcedinduktion]

cool story bro

[bmannn]

Thanks for all the info. I will just do a fp too. Who has the best one?

[manelscout4life]

cp-e but theres a long wait for it.

[Tokay444]

Autotech is reputed to have the best internals.

[Bucker]

KMD has a new coating...








I figured I would throw that in so all options were covered...

[Nataphen]

Just wait and get the AP so that you can monitor what's going on. Don't trust all the "my car is awesome and never ever has a problem ever" crap. Most of the time, you can't tell when your pump pressures are falling lower than safe levels. Be smart about your mod path, please.

Before you start switching pumps or internals, you need something to monitor and make sure that it's working right anyway.

[CorkSport]

One thing we do say is every car is different. Our shop car is running a FMIC, turbo back exhaust, and some other goodies and our pump is keeping up according the data logs.

We have seen cars that have had an intake installed and had some pump problems. On average you can get 2-3 power mods on a speed before you need to add a pump.

I agree with Nate, if you are going to mod your car get something to monitor your system. It is the best insurance against replacing your engine.

-Derrick

[surebOOst]

Glad to say i now have experience with this. I have a sri, tip, testpipe, resonator delete with no muffler (loud as shit), and i just got my ap today!!! I monitored boost for like 5 min but then switched to monitor my fp. I run the shit out of my car and with the stock fp i stayed 1600+ on WOT the whole time. I run it as STAGE 1 sf+tip and it run fine. nxt mod rmm very very soon!

[Soto]

im waiting for AP to come out before i do anything

if there's anything ive learned about the genpu's weak ass fuel pump, is too monitor that shit before putting parts on..

[SpeedSixxx]

Originally Posted by myslow1 cool story bro! here's a banana.

if you don't have anything helpful to say.....

shut the fuck up.

[Nataphen]

I just thought of something. I know that you 2011 guys are wanting to add parts now now now, just like the rest of us, so instead of power parts that you can't monitor yet, here's a list of very helpful parts to start with if you just can't wait:

rear motor mount
side motor mounts
Redline MTL or Ford Motorcraft trans fluid
lowering springs and shocks or coilovers (you will need adjustable rear camber arms for this)
lightweight wheels
solid shifter bushings + shift kit or full replacement short throw shifter
oil catch can and EGR delete
rear sway bar
catback exhaust or res delete (more for sound than power)

I'm sure that there are a few to add, but those are just off the top of my head. Though these parts won't necessarily add power, they will help you put it to the ground, shift better, help the longevity or your car, handle better, or something along those lines. This list may help you hold off until the 2011 AP arrives so that you can monitor your car to be sure that it's not being a bastard.

[EvilMonkey]

Id recommend leaving your factory gear fluid in until at least your 2nd or 3rd oil change if you choose. This will be better for the transmission in the long run. I also heard using the Ford Motorcrap trans fluid can break down the shifter forks. But this is only what I have heard. Everything else on that list DO..NOW!

[Nataphen]

Um, where exactly do you get your info? You're the same guy that jumped in a thread saying that you don't need an OCC. My 2nd gear went out at 6k miles, having hardly missed a shift. The trans fluid had to be changed when it was rebuilt, I switched to Redline MTL, never looked back.

[bmannn]

thanks. definitly gonna wait for the ap. ordered the eibach springs and cpe 75rmm yeatersday.

[Tokay444]

I wouldn't do an egr delete until you can clear the light.

[Nataphen]

Fuck the light, save your intake. Put some tape over that shit or something.

[SpeedSixxx]

Originally Posted by Tokay444 I wouldn't do an egr delete until you can clear the light.

when will you learn?

even if you have an AP and you clear the EGR insufficient flow CEL thats all it does...

when you go to get an inspection your car will fail if you live in a state or province that does not only a visual inspection but a OBD inspection as well..

clearing the light just clears the light from showing but the EGR sensor will show "NOT READY" AND thus you will fail inspection.

not to mention I have my egr deleted for too long now and the CEL doesnt even bother me.
I could prob shut the light itself off but I don't care.