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 Old 08-13-2017, 10:23 AM   #1
 
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Default Dammit! Cleaned valves, now car won't run.

You may have seen my previous threads relating to my valve cleaning process. Yes, it's been a long time from the beginning, but I'm doing it between work and other life shit. I thought I would finish it up this morning and start it up. All I had to do was install the JBR OCC and the intercooler and then button it up.

I was very careful to put each component back where it belongs. I went back over everything before I even connected the battery. Then I got in, pushed the start button and it started. I got out and went to the back of the car to see if it was smoking (little puff at first, then none). It ran a little rough for about a minute, then it start to stutter, so I rushed back to give it some gas. It died before I could. Now, it just cranks and won't run. FUCK!

What would MSF do?

While I was doing the valve cleaning, I installed a JBR EGR Block kit (not the delete) and the mentioned JBR OCC. Could these be contributing to this problem?

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 Old 08-13-2017, 10:25 AM   #2
 
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Try turning car to on a few times to let it prime up. Any codes?

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 Old 08-13-2017, 10:30 AM   #3
 
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Nope, no codes. It'll just crank and crank. I don't wanna burn the starter up or run the battery down.
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 Old 08-13-2017, 10:32 AM   #4
 
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No, cycle the key to on a few times. Let it sit at on for 30 seconds or so then do it again

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 Old 08-13-2017, 10:42 AM   #5
 
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Maybe your maf sensor needs a good cleaning?
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 Old 08-13-2017, 10:43 AM   #6
 
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Cycled to ON, but still no start.

I changed the spark plugs in this process too. I expected it to fire right up.

Originally Posted by Djohns View Post
Maybe your maf sensor needs a good cleaning?
How do you clean it?
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 Old 08-13-2017, 10:44 AM   #7
 
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What did you gap those at? Check coil plug harnesses and make sure they're clean and on all the way.

Originally Posted by attomica View Post
Cycled to ON, but still no start.

I changed the spark plugs in this process too. I expected it to fire right up.


How do you clean it?
With maf cleaner. Buy it at any auto parts store.
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 Old 08-13-2017, 10:54 AM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by Djohns View Post
What did you gap those at? Check coil plug harnesses and make sure they're clean and on all the way.
I made sure everything with the plugs was clean and in good shape. I used NGK's Iridium IX LTR7IX-11 and gapped them to .027.

MAF sensor looks clean. Is a visual inspection enough or can it be dirty and you can't tell?
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 Old 08-13-2017, 10:57 AM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by attomica View Post
I made sure everything with the plugs was clean and in good shape. I used NGK's Iridium IX LTR7IX-11 and gapped them to .027.

MAF sensor looks clean. Is a visual inspection enough or can it be dirty and you can't tell?
Yes. There's two spots that need to be cleaned on it. I have a feeling youre looking at the temperature sensor.
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 Old 08-13-2017, 11:05 AM   #10
 
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Originally Posted by Djohns View Post
Yes. There's two spots that need to be cleaned on it. I have a feeling youre looking at the temperature sensor.
Temperature sensor? No, the MAF sensor in the intake duct, right by the SRI air filter is what I looked at.

The car was starting and running fine before I did the valve cleaning process. It doesn't seem like the MAF sensor would cause the no-start condition I'm facing now.
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 Old 08-13-2017, 11:51 AM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by attomica View Post
Temperature sensor? No, the MAF sensor in the intake duct, right by the SRI air filter is what I looked at.

The car was starting and running fine before I did the valve cleaning process. It doesn't seem like the MAF sensor would cause the no-start condition I'm facing now.


No. You can leave your MAF unplugged and start the car. It will start but will die out after a couple seconds


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 Old 08-13-2017, 12:12 PM   #12
 
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Can these cars get flooded? I just checked the spark plugs and they seemed pretty dirty for being in there just for this short period of time and not even running. They smelled heavily of gas too. I brushed them off lightly with a paper towel and tried starting again. It caught for a few seconds, then back to just cranking, but not running.
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 Old 08-13-2017, 01:25 PM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by Jonb82 View Post
No. You can leave your MAF unplugged and start the car. It will start but will die out after a couple seconds


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He said it ran then bogged down and died, could easily be a maf.

Originally Posted by attomica View Post
Temperature sensor? No, the MAF sensor in the intake duct, right by the SRI air filter is what I looked at.

The car was starting and running fine before I did the valve cleaning process. It doesn't seem like the MAF sensor would cause the no-start condition I'm facing now.
There's a temp sensor in the maf sensor as well, it reads the temp of incoming air.
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The go: Depo racing: downpipe (100 cell count), custom: FMIC. HTP: 3.5" intake, under route piping. JBR: shortshifter, RSB. Autotech: HPFP internals. Go fast bits: hybrid BPV, VMR: 18x8.5 V710s, Bridgestone: potenza re760 245/40/18, KW: v3 coilovers,SPC: camber arms, freektuned, Damond Motorsports: dual OCC, PMM, PCV plate, RMM, TMM, EGR delete, FoSt mani, Corksport: battery box(fuck this thing), injector seals, Cobb: EBCS, AP v3. AEM: methanol. Seibon: carbon fiber hood. UR: catback. Bosch: 3bar. BNR: s4, DNP: EWG manifold, Tial: 38mm mvs EWG.

The show: 5% tint all around, 50% tint windshield, rally armor mudflaps, Sony XAV64BT touchscreen headunit, katskin leather interior, CPE relocation plate, Maisonvi weighted shift knob, Corksport hoodscoop, black housing headlights.

Soon:built motor

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 Old 08-13-2017, 01:37 PM   #14
 
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I dunno. I have a hard time thinking the MAF sensor is the culprit, but I guess it can't hurt anything to clean it. So, I just get that cleaner and spray it all over the thing in all the little cavities and shit?
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 Old 08-13-2017, 01:41 PM   #15
 
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Yes so the temp sensor on that is a little piece of metal with what looks to be a little bulb like object at the end, the actual maf sensors are further up the little crevice, you can see them if you look down in the sensor. It might not be the cause but you never know. It's dying and spark plugs smell like gas because it's running extremely rich.

Your next step should be a boost leak test.
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The go: Depo racing: downpipe (100 cell count), custom: FMIC. HTP: 3.5" intake, under route piping. JBR: shortshifter, RSB. Autotech: HPFP internals. Go fast bits: hybrid BPV, VMR: 18x8.5 V710s, Bridgestone: potenza re760 245/40/18, KW: v3 coilovers,SPC: camber arms, freektuned, Damond Motorsports: dual OCC, PMM, PCV plate, RMM, TMM, EGR delete, FoSt mani, Corksport: battery box(fuck this thing), injector seals, Cobb: EBCS, AP v3. AEM: methanol. Seibon: carbon fiber hood. UR: catback. Bosch: 3bar. BNR: s4, DNP: EWG manifold, Tial: 38mm mvs EWG.

The show: 5% tint all around, 50% tint windshield, rally armor mudflaps, Sony XAV64BT touchscreen headunit, katskin leather interior, CPE relocation plate, Maisonvi weighted shift knob, Corksport hoodscoop, black housing headlights.

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 Old 08-13-2017, 01:49 PM   #16
 
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All I did was clean the valves and install new plugs, EGR block, and OCC. What makes you think a boost leak test is indicated? Is my expectation that it would fire right up and run like a top unreasonable? I'm not ranting at you, brother, just frustrated as hell. I appreciate your thoughts on my issue here.
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 Old 08-13-2017, 01:53 PM   #17
 
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This will Sound insulting but it happened to me before. Start checking fuses. I did an evaporator in an avalon, never ever do this if you don't have to. Had battery disconnected, put everything back together, ecu1 fuse blew somehow.

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 Old 08-13-2017, 02:28 PM   #18
 
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Originally Posted by tmillner View Post
Try turning car to on a few times to let it prime up. Any codes?

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This.
Turn the ignition on and off about 8 times to let the fuel lines fill.

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 Old 08-13-2017, 02:50 PM   #19
 
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Okay, I cleaned the MAF sensor, I checked all the fuses (all are good), and I cycled the ignition to prime several times. Still no start.
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 Old 08-13-2017, 02:53 PM   #20
 
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Is it flooded?


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 Old 08-13-2017, 03:11 PM   #21
 
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Originally Posted by Jonb82 View Post
Is it flooded?
I've wondered. How can you tell if it is or not?
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 Old 08-13-2017, 03:12 PM   #22
 
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You can always take the plugs out push the clutch in and floor the accelerator like your doing a compassion check. Whatevers in there won't be for long! Put some rags down

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 Old 08-13-2017, 03:13 PM   #23
 
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So I'm guessing that it's turning over? Mine got flooded once. Pull the fuse in the engine bay and crank her. Replace fuse and start her up. Don't remember off hand which one it was


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 Old 08-13-2017, 03:19 PM   #24
 
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Fuck you photobucket btw


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 Old 08-13-2017, 03:36 PM   #25
 
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Just pulled fuse, cranked twice for about 10 seconds each, then replaced fuse and tried to start. Same thing...crank, but no run.
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 Old 08-13-2017, 04:02 PM   #26
 
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I want to say there must be a leak somewhere on the manifold that's letting it run too rich.
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 Old 08-13-2017, 04:08 PM   #27
 
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Originally Posted by Djohns View Post
I want to say there must be a leak somewhere on the manifold that's letting it run too rich.
Or something was left unplugged.
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 Old 08-13-2017, 04:17 PM   #28
 
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I dunno. I forgot to mention that I used a JBR TIG (thermal intake gasket), so I'm not sure what to think about that suggestion. Arent those TIGs supposed to be good?
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 Old 08-13-2017, 04:18 PM   #29
 
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Yes those are good, check the vcts box that sits on top of the manifold. There's a little grommet that sits on the bottom post, make sure it's still there.
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 Old 08-13-2017, 04:19 PM   #30
 
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Originally Posted by attomica View Post
I dunno. I forgot to mention that I used a JBR TIG (thermal intake gasket), so I'm not sure what to think about that suggestion. Arent those TIGs supposed to be good?


Unless you're at higher power levels. After time they start to fray. These symptoms will not happen unless if user error. Not being disrespectful btw. I've done shit as well


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 Old 08-13-2017, 04:21 PM   #31
 
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Maybe try to start your car with the gas petal all the way down. It won't start, but that helps prime the system. Plus you may be able to throw a code that way to have a direction figuring this out.
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 Old 08-13-2017, 04:51 PM   #32
 
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All good things to look at. I'm so grateful for you guys' help, but I gotta let go of this for the day. I'll check the grommet and do the pedal thing and get back to this thread soon, hopefully. This forum's the best and you guys have been great.
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 Old 08-13-2017, 05:11 PM   #33
 
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Did you plug the MAP sensor back in?

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 Old 08-13-2017, 07:34 PM   #34
 
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Originally Posted by PapaBruno View Post
Did you plug the MAP sensor back in?

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Of course.
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 Old 08-14-2017, 09:40 AM   #35
 
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Originally Posted by Djohns View Post
Yes those are good, check the vcts box that sits on top of the manifold. There's a little grommet that sits on the bottom post, make sure it's still there.
Not to get off topic but I had (what I think is) a grommet fall when changing plugs. Small, metal, had no clue if important or where it goes.
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 Old 08-14-2017, 10:42 AM   #36
 
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I assume the OCC valve is closed? Just an easy check and I and a many others have left it open before.

Also, did you get any b12 or whatever you used in the chambers when you cleaned? I got some in mine, did the plugs out, gas down start to blow the liquid out.

Also, is the plastic arm the VCTS intact, cracked, broken, etc. I would think it would throw a code but maybe not.
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 Old 08-14-2017, 10:49 AM   #37
 
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Originally Posted by Bexar View Post
Not to get off topic but I had (what I think is) a grommet fall when changing plugs. Small, metal, had no clue if important or where it goes.
Couldn't tell you. The grommet I'm talking about is rubber and sits under the VTCS box which you wouldn't have touched.
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 Old 08-14-2017, 06:03 PM   #38
 
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Originally Posted by cyclist20 View Post
I assume the OCC valve is closed? Just an easy check and I and a many others have left it open before.

Also, did you get any b12 or whatever you used in the chambers when you cleaned? I got some in mine, did the plugs out, gas down start to blow the liquid out.

Also, is the plastic arm the VCTS intact, cracked, broken, etc. I would think it would throw a code but maybe not.
Thanks for your suggestions. Yep, OCC is closed. I used denatured alcohol, not B-12, but I didn't get any in the cylinders either way. The VCTS set-up is all intact and in good shape.
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 Old 08-14-2017, 06:07 PM   #39
 
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Did you try removing the spark plugs and starting it to ensure the cylinders are clear?
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 Old 08-14-2017, 06:33 PM   #40
 
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Originally Posted by Djohns View Post
Did you try removing the spark plugs and starting it to ensure the cylinders are clear?
No, I haven't done that. You think it'll make a difference?
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