FWIW, I can attest that simply running through a bottle of Techron cleared up a blocked EGR code that I had thrown before I'd altogether unplugged/deleted the damn thing.

I did exactly that. When I have everything apart to fix injector seals, I have a 2nd set of injectors (bought for 100) that have already been sent off for cleaning (another 125).

Are you saying a used set of 4 injectors is $100?!

When you send them away for cleaning and testing, can they perform any repairs if they're not performing right? I'm just not sure what would cause these to leak and I'd be cautious about buying a used one not knowing if it works properly.

I was speaking to Alex from Stratified about this issue and he did tell me that IF this injector is indeed leaking, I should address it before proceeding with any mods. He also said to be sure to replace the other seal on them (looks like a blue o-ring with white inserts).

Has anyone tried out the Standard Motor Products FJ778 fuel injectors in our cars?

My path forward will be to use fuel injector cleaner every three to four fill ups, and then I'll pull that plug to check if there's fuel on it after my next oil change. If so, then I'll buy some replacement injectors; undecided on new or used at the moment.

@aackthpt;, I do always run top-tier in my car. Usually Shell or Petro-Canada.

I've attached new pics...if these aren't any good, I can take some new ones tomorrow. The cylinder 1 plug is the left most plug. You can see the ground electrode is black, versus the whitened ground electrode on the other plug (representative of the other three).

At $100 a set, it's worth the risk of potentially getting a bad injector. The set I got cleaned up well and tested fine. How long they last is still a question. A leaky injector could be as simple as trash keeping the valve from sealing that can be washed away by cleaning. Or it could be a bad seal. The labor cost of rebuilding an injector would be more than what the injector costs which means chuck it and find another used one.

All of your plugs look pretty bad. Mine are black around the ring, but the insulator should be white or tan, like so:

You're definitely right about the cost. I suppose if I'm going to get in there myself, I may as well learn how to clean my valves too. Not gonna lie...more than a little intimidated, haha.

I was also thinking they look bad after reading about plugs. I was on the rich ass stock tune for 76,500 miles if that accounts for anything? I'm on a Stratified Flash Tune now. Any reason my plugs might look like this?

Cleaning the valves is also on my to-do list. But I may leave it alone and install a small meth injection kit to slowly eat away at the buildup.

The only scenario I can think of right now that would give you black plugs like that is frequent cold starts without reaching optimal running temperature. Cold enrichment is a normal thing, similar to a choke on a carb engine. It runs very rich when cold and slowly works to stoich as the engine warms up. If not given the chance to get warm, the soot will build up.
That's just 1 scenario. I'm sure there are more.

Well, it has been an awfully cold winter here this year, so that may be my problem. My daily commute with my car is about 15 minutes with some freeway driving.

For the record, my compression test had three cylinders at 160 psi and the other at 155 psi.

I decided I'm going to go the route of getting a used set of injectors and will pay to have them cleaned and tested, as well as have the inner seals replaced.

Also, I'll be upgrading my rear shock absorbers with B8 Bilstein Sports as my drivers side strut is leaking oil.

The old girl is starting to show her age. Then again, so am I, LOL

I bought all new seals for my injectors, but be warned, it adds up to be quite expensive. And that's not including the actual injector seal at the head. I have a set of Toyota seals for there.

The guy that will be cleaning and testing my used injectors (these are currently non-existent, lol) said he has new seals and the white plastic seats. He will also be replacing the plastic strainers with stainless steel ones as the OEM ones often degrade over time and can clog these things up.

The seal kit he said he'd be using has brown O-rings rather than the OEM blue ones. Should I stay clear of those and just buy a seal kit through Mazda? I'm really sorry for all the questions. This was more than I was hoping to do.

I think I will use B-12 and a cleaning kit to do my valves instead of walnut shell media (too messy and I don't have the equipment).

I didn't even think about the strainer...because I didn't know about it. Guess I have more to buy.
I bought all new OE Mazda seals except the seal at the head.
Blue o-rings and 3 different plastic seals/seats/grommets...w/e.
Pictured below, 252 (#2-4) and 253.

Don't buy from JimEllis though. There are less expensive places for Mazda parts.

Well, I had a frustrating revelation this evening.

I sat down to take notes on the RMM and Autotech Internals installation and realized that the company I ordered through sent me the Focus ST mount instead of the Mazdaspeed 3.

I ordered the CP-e Stage 2 RMM, which has a transmission specific mounting bracket :grumpy:

I'm going to be adding an Oil Catch Can to my mod list and was going to go with a Damond Stg 1 OCC.

A local tuning company wants to sell me a Radium Engineering OCC (for about the same price than the Damond, but less since I don't have to pay for shipping or duties as they stock them). It looks like a quality item, but haven't seen anyone using one of these on these forums (the Evo & BMW guys use them):

Universal Single Catch Can

As long as it's baffled, and the piece is quality, I wouldn't worry about who makes it. I personally would say go DM, but I am a fanboy of their stuff lol.

At only 5" in height, that is a tiny OCC though. I think, not even sure how big the DM one is.

I ended up going with the Damond Stage 1...makes sense since everything is pre-cut for our cars :)

I'm going to be installing the autotech fuel pump internals tomorrow. One question I have is about using non-chlorinated brake cleaner to clean the pump up and new internals. Is brake cleaner safe on the rubber O-rings? Or should I avoid spraying any cleaner on the O-rings?

Thanks in advance! :)

I'd say you're fine using brake cleaner on the o-rings, given most brake calipers have rubber seals and dust boots.

Interested to know where you read to use brake cleaner to clean the pump. Never heard that before. USE GASOLINE to clean the pump, and motor oil to lubricate it before you reassemble. The pump is designed to come into contact with these two fluids but not brake cleaner which therefore may have an unpredictable effect. It might be fine since it's not long-term contact but since petrol is easy to come by, why risk it?

Also, when you use the gasoline to clean it, put it in a glass or metal container. A pyrex measuring cup would work, or a tuna can for example. When we did mine they put the gasoline in a solo cup and within a few minutes much of it had leaked out the many holes as the cup dissolved away and we scrambled for a can...

A lot of the how-to's and videos say to use non-chlorinated brake cleaner. However, I thought better of it and picked up a small can of gas.

Maybe I'll use an old cup I no longer want to use. LOL at the Solo cup...the thought had actually crossed my mind.

Well, hopefully everything goes smoothly tomorrow. As for torque specs, they seem to be all over the map for the piston...I've read 35 ft-lbs, 45 ft-lbs, 65 ft-lbs, etc. I. Thinking I'll just go with 45.

I would use the torque specified in the instructions for your set of internals. With that said, it is pretty tight and anything in that range probably works. I have CS and their instructions say 40 ft-lbs so I'm sure that's what I used.

It doesn't specify a torque setting in my instructions.

Also, my stock internals and sleeve are seized in my seal screw. I'm at a loss right now.

I got it all figured out...that did not go as smoothly as I hoped. I took my time, but my 18mm bit slipped a bit around the seal screw nut while I was torqueing it.

Anyways, I got it done and it looks, sounds, feels, and smells (doesn't smell like gas) like the job was successful. 5.5 hours...gawd I'm slow :(

Mine slipped off once during torquing too. That nut is strangely chamfered, and there isn't a lot of engagement length once you consider the entry chamfer of most impact sockets.

Don't worry about it taking time. It took me days if you consider when I started. I first tried to do it myself... I concluded that unless I wanted to remove all kinds of things I had to buy stubby wrenches to get the job done, so there was time to decide what to buy, order, wait for them to arrive. Then during the actual job there was time figuring out what was wrong since the manufacturer had put my kit together a bit wrong (one of the parts was in too far so you couldn't do an earlier assembly step). And even doing it with the experienced guys they kept saying "wow I forgot what a PITA this is". I'd say even working with guys that had done this job before it still took 2-3 hours overall. So don't worry about how long it took, as long as it is working properly then hells yeah! :unitedstates:

Thanks man! Much appreciated :)

I went the route of removing the battery box & ecu, air box, intake pipe and turbo inlet pipe. It made the job of removing the pump quite easy. One thing I noted about most installation how-to's is that they don't recommend loosening two 8mm bolts that hold the high pressure fuel line (hard line) in place. If those bolts are loosened (not removed), you don't need to fight with the fuel pump lining up with the hard line.

I had no issues with removal or install of the pump at all...just the actual internals installation, which probably took me 2-3 hours just on that.

I can see why it took a while if you removed the BB and intake. We didn't remove any of that when we did mine. And that's a good point about loosening the bolts for the hard line. That alignment was one of the sticking points of getting the job done.

Anyway, better to take your time and do the job right than to have to redo it I'd say. :)

I just downloaded the shop manual to look at the rear shock absorber replacement.

I decided to check out the hpfp removal instructions and it turns out that the 8mm bolt holding the high pressure fuel line is also the water outlet case bolt. Yikes, I had no idea, but I didn't notice any coolant loss.

Very lucky I only loosened it and didn't remove it.