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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Thanks to everyone here I've decided how I want to start modding and thanks to EdgeAutosports I now have all the mods! I've got an AP, internals, CP-e RMM, and an OCC. Hopefully I'll still be able to sit and won't walk to funny after this post - I've spent a lot of time reading and searching on the site and I think the mod path I'm planing is pretty safe. I just have one concern I wanted to discuss with the group. I'm still worried about the warranty issues (only 1k on the car) - I know I can go stock on the car before taking it in, but if I'm asked if I've modded I'm going to fess up (I know about their need to prove cause, etc. and I imagine that only works if you get lawyers involved - I'll fight - but I've got to tell the truth). My question is this: is there anything else I should do before I start modding to ensure the car is really in top condition and get anything out of the dealer that I can? (also it had 77 miles from the dealer, and I can't be sure, but I think those might have been harder miles than the 1k I've put on since) The only two thoughts I had where to get a UOA first to see if anything is out of whack and then take the car into the dealership to ensure no outstanding TSB, etc. and have 'em check it over as if I were buying it used. Any other ideas? Would any of this provide any useful information anyway? Is the dealership even likely to care enough to tell me if there are issues? Is there anything that would show signs of suckage this early or specific parts that I should have checked (I hope not at 1k)? These are the only oddities I've noticed thus far and based on my findings here they are not really issues: 1. When approaching a stop sign I'll shift into first when going slow, but before coming to a complete stop and I'll here the synchros whirring in an odd way - an irregular cadence/rhythm. (Solution: probably not a concern - stop shifting before stoping) 2. Shifting to 2nd sucks (Solution: I suck at using this clutch still - I should stop sucking, perhaps RMM helps?) 3. Shifting in general makes slight clunking sounds like things are not all lined up right (Solution: Known issue that the motor mounts suck and my new CP-e RMM will fix that (although do they really suck that bad after just 1k?) ). Any advice? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Ok dude this is a new car, nothing is wrong with it. Just mod it. Nothing you mentioned will make any difference at all. Also: 1. That is differential whine. Perfectly normal. 2. That is the crappy stock motor mount and your lack of driver skills. Perfectly normal. 3. Again, stock motor mount. Perfectly normal. Do it already. Oh and don't get the CP-e mount, waste of time and money. Go straight for the JBR 88 duro chrome molly. You will thank me after.
__________________ Current Build: Liquid Silver Metallic Pu - JBR Shifter Bushings, Cobb AP, JBR Chome Molly JBR SSP, ProSport Premium Boost Gauge, 25% e85 Tune PTP HPFP Internals, CorkSport Intake/TIP, Cobb Sport Springs Sold: 2008.5 Black Mica GenWon - Fully Bolted |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to abiezerf For This Useful Post: | ElChangoPelon (02-25-2014) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Most of those clunks are the engine banging around on the stock mount Id bet. The motor mount shouldn't void the warranty either. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________ Freektune (300 whp/ 349 wtq) Cobb Accessport/Autotech HPFP Internals/ HTP 3 Inch Intake/ Cobb Downpipe/ ETS TMIC/ Corksport Short Throw Shifter + Bushings/ JBR RSB/ JBR 88 RMM |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Frenchy11 For This Useful Post: | ElChangoPelon (02-25-2014) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Dude relax. Your car is fine... but here are some answers to your questions.
I would suggest you search, there are tons of threads with all this information available.
__________________ 2010 Mazdaspeed3 w/tech Cobb AP V3 ║ JBR Tru 3" Wide Path ║ JBR Boost Tubes & BPV Hose ║ Cobb XLE BPV ║ CP-E TMIC ║ UR Racepipe ║ Magnaflow CBE ║ AutoTech Internals ║ GrimmSpeed EBCS ║ JBR RSB ║ SPC Camber Arms ║ KW V3 Coilovers ║ JBR IM+TB TIGs & TB Bypass ║ JBR SSP ║ E - Focus RMM ║ StopTech Slotted Rotors and EBC Yellow Stuff Pads ║ Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines | |||
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| The Following User Says Thank You to [R]usty For This Useful Post: | ElChangoPelon (02-25-2014) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score for the differential whine, changing the fluid to a better one will help quiet that down significantly if it really bothers you. The fluid mazda puts in isnt the best. Search the forum for your fluid of choice. The war between motocraft and redline is the major one i have seen but some people swear by royal purple cheers
__________________ 07 Cosmic Blue Mica MS3 GT: Cobb AP, Torq R3 Street; Sure CounterWeight; Corksport CAI/TIP; Cobb Shift Knob on Stratified extension w/ TWM shortshifter; Corksport Internals; Custom straight 3 inch catback exhaust by RPM |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Fatpig78 For This Useful Post: | ElChangoPelon (02-25-2014) |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Awesome! This weekend I'll get the AP taken care of and next the internals. Thanks for the quick responses. I appreciate the frank, direct answers. Voided warranty, here I come! :-) |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to ElChangoPelon For This Useful Post: | KiwiFlavor (02-25-2014) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score This car is not meant to have a warranty lol, I bought with 3 miles on the ODO and before i hit 4K i was already Tuned on E-85 out of warranty. But every mile has been a blast... now in sitting at 17K and nothing major yet.. Go mod and enjoy your car
__________________ 2013 VRM MS3\ BNR S3v2\ 4GL E85 TUNED\ |
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