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 Old 11-14-2015, 05:16 PM   #1
 
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Default First home oil change question

So I finally decided to save some money and learn to do my own oil change. Watched a youtube video and followed the steps. However, I now see in the Rallysportdirect thread on these forums that they say to fill up the new filter with oil before inserting it. I didn't do this as the video didn't mention it (I also forgot to oil the O-ring, which the video did mention). Just wondering if it's ok that I didn't do that step and what the purpose of filling it up beforehand was? Also, it only took 5 qts of oil before the level was near the "max" on the stick (and I let the old oil drain out for a while). Anyone else find they only put in 5 qts and not 6 before this happened?
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 Old 11-14-2015, 06:26 PM   #2
 
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Originally Posted by speedre View Post
So I finally decided to save some money and learn to do my own oil change. Watched a youtube video and followed the steps. However, I now see in the Rallysportdirect thread on these forums that they say to fill up the new filter with oil before inserting it. I didn't do this as the video didn't mention it (I also forgot to oil the O-ring, which the video did mention). Just wondering if it's ok that I didn't do that step and what the purpose of filling it up beforehand was? Also, it only took 5 qts of oil before the level was near the "max" on the stick (and I let the old oil drain out for a while). Anyone else find they only put in 5 qts and not 6 before this happened?
The guy filled his oil filter so oil pressure builds faster and you avoid a prolonged dry start. Its not the end of the world that you didn't oil the filter gasket just don't forget next time. My speed takes 5.7ish quarts to get to the max line. Did you check the level after running the engine? The filter will hold a half quart roughly so after running the oil level will drop a bit.
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 Old 11-14-2015, 06:27 PM   #3
 
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Did you run it then check the oil? You don't have to fill the filter before hand. I never do.

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 Old 11-14-2015, 09:25 PM   #4
 
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Its definitely recommended to fill the filter prior to install, but one time wont hurt the engine.

Props to you for changing your own oil. There is quite a bit of satisfaction in saving money, and knowing the job was done with with (hopefully) quality parts.

The drain plugs are o-rings should be changed with each oil change, but again, one time shouldn't hurt.
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 Old 11-15-2015, 11:08 AM   #5
 
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Your fine. Most dealers and oil change places don't pre-charge the oil filter.

As for oil level. Drain it, put in 5qts, run it for a few minutes, let it sit a few minutes, check level, add as needed. Most of these cars seem to take around 5.5qts.
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 Old 11-15-2015, 11:28 AM   #6
 
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gen 2 has spin on filters? i dont get how you can pre-charge a cartridge filter
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 Old 11-15-2015, 11:42 AM   #7
 
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I pre-charge my cartridge filter just like you'd check your compression. Turn the engine over for a few seconds with clutch and gas in. It won't bring oil pressure up to operating levels but it will push oil throughout the engine.
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 Old 11-15-2015, 11:44 AM   #8
 
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You don't need to pre charge the filter.

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 Old 11-15-2015, 12:41 PM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by shamie View Post
I pre-charge my cartridge filter just like you'd check your compression. Turn the engine over for a few seconds with clutch and gas in. It won't bring oil pressure up to operating levels but it will push oil throughout the engine.
That's an interesting idea actually.
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 Old 11-15-2015, 09:15 PM   #10
 
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I only drove it about a mile since the change but hadn't checked it. Did today and it was down to the min line so yea as you said guess it went to the filter. Thanks that was dumb of me, got another .7-.8ish in before it got to max line again.

Originally Posted by robbspeed View Post
The guy filled his oil filter so oil pressure builds faster and you avoid a prolonged dry start. Its not the end of the world that you didn't oil the filter gasket just don't forget next time. My speed takes 5.7ish quarts to get to the max line. Did you check the level after running the engine? The filter will hold a half quart roughly so after running the oil level will drop a bit.
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 Old 11-15-2015, 09:22 PM   #11
 
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Thanks for the replies/advice everyone. Next time I'll add 5 qts, run car, then check dipstick again and add more accordingly. And replace O-rings.
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 Old 11-16-2015, 09:54 AM   #12
 
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When you remove that oil filter on your next change, MAKE SURE the filter gasket comes off with it. You pre-lube the gasket for 2 reasons (and both are unlikely events): to keep it from binding when tightening down, and to keep it from sticking upon removal. If you put a new filter on over a stuck gasket, you will more likely have a leak/failure.
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 Old 11-16-2015, 02:33 PM   #13
 
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I keep seeing the "saves you money" comment, but it costs me $20 more to do it myself than if I get it done at the dealer. Not that I care, though. I like being in control and the dealer uses Kendall oil, which I know nothing about.
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 Old 11-16-2015, 02:37 PM   #14
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i saved money.

$28 for 6 quarts of T6 and a Wix filter.
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 Old 11-16-2015, 06:20 PM   #15
 
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If you push the gas petal to the floor and turn the key, it will turn over but not fire. I try to do this after an oil change as well as fill the filter.

The way I beat my car, it should pay to be nice to it once in a while
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 Old 11-16-2015, 07:24 PM   #16
 
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Mine takes 5.7 usually, wouldn't worry about it honestly. As for the crush washer on the drain plug, I've been reusing it for a year with no leaks whatsoever. Is it recommended to change it, absolutely. Is it a big deal if you don't, not really.

Same with prefilling the filter, recommended for sure, not a huge deal if you forget. Just remember to check your oil after the 5qts and do the dip, wipe, dip because for some reason it will read on minimum even though next time you dip and pull it out it will read the correct level. Not sure why that is, probably some science shit. To sum up, always check the dipstick twice.
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 Old 11-16-2015, 07:32 PM   #17
 
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Shoot, I recheck my oil level probably 4 times before I call it good. I'm a bit OCD though.


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 Old 11-16-2015, 07:49 PM   #18
 
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My last beater burned oil at a rate of about a quart every 1000 miles. It took more than year with the MS3 to break the habit of checking the oil every week or two.
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 Old 11-16-2015, 10:25 PM   #19
 
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Originally Posted by crankshaft View Post
My last beater burned oil at a rate of about a quart every 1000 miles. It took more than year with the MS3 to break the habit of checking the oil every week or two.
Heh, been a few years since my 93 shitlica (celica) and I still check the oil every time I gas up. Though that car was a sieve and you could follow it home from the oil trail.





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 Old 11-17-2015, 06:55 AM   #20
 
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Thanks for the further input everyone, appreciate it. As for cost, most places I went to would charge $75-100 for synthetic oil change. Is the T6 oil good Shadow? I got Mobil 1 synthetic and Mobil 1 filter for $48, so $28 would be even more of a significant savings.

Originally Posted by MS3Shadow View Post
i saved money.

$28 for 6 quarts of T6 and a Wix filter.
Good to know csmaan! I haven't seen any leaks so far, I'll do it next time but good to know it wasn't the biggest miss in the world.

Originally Posted by csmaan12 View Post
Mine takes 5.7 usually, wouldn't worry about it honestly. As for the crush washer on the drain plug, I've been reusing it for a year with no leaks whatsoever. Is it recommended to change it, absolutely. Is it a big deal if you don't, not really.

Same with prefilling the filter, recommended for sure, not a huge deal if you forget. Just remember to check your oil after the 5qts and do the dip, wipe, dip because for some reason it will read on minimum even though next time you dip and pull it out it will read the correct level. Not sure why that is, probably some science shit. To sum up, always check the dipstick twice.

Last edited by speedre; 11-17-2015 at 06:55 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 11-17-2015, 06:57 AM   #21
 
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Originally Posted by speedre View Post
Thanks for the further input everyone, appreciate it. As for cost, most places I went to would charge $75-100 for synthetic oil change. Is the T6 oil good Shadow? I got Mobil 1 synthetic and Mobil 1 filter for $48, so $28 would be even more of a significant savings.
T6 is good stuff and our cars seem to like it, plus it's pretty cheap. Normally doesn't cost me more than $32 for the oil and filter.
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 Old 11-17-2015, 06:57 AM   #22
 
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All I've ever run was t6 fwiw. From the research i found it has held up the best
From my understanding you can get single quarts from walmart rather than buy 2 gallons

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 Old 11-17-2015, 09:52 AM   #23
 
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Originally Posted by tmillner View Post
All I've ever run was t6 fwiw. From the research i found it has held up the best
From my understanding you can get single quarts from walmart rather than buy 2 gallons

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You buy 2 gallons then save the remaining half-gallon for your next oil change. This is the cheapest way.
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 Old 11-17-2015, 10:54 AM   #24
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Did you trip over your filled pail of old oil and spill it all over your driveway? If you didn't do this, you're doing your oil change wrong.
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 Old 11-17-2015, 11:16 AM   #25
 
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Originally Posted by neganox View Post
Did you trip over your filled pail of old oil and spill it all over your driveway? If you didn't do this, you're doing your oil change wrong.

I'm more a fan of changing the oil IMMEDIATELY after I shut off the car. That way, when I attempt to spin off the filter (Genwon spin-on conversion for me) I get scathing hot oil on my hand then instinctively drop that filter into the scathing hot pan full of oil so it can then splash all over my shins.
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 Old 11-17-2015, 12:12 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Shwaykid View Post
I'm more a fan of changing the oil IMMEDIATELY after I shut off the car. That way, when I attempt to spin off the filter (Genwon spin-on conversion for me) I get scathing hot oil on my hand then instinctively drop that filter into the scathing hot pan full of oil so it can then splash all over my shins.
Sounds like you are doing it correctly with precision.

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 Old 11-17-2015, 12:36 PM   #27
 
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No matter what precaution I take, I always manage to get some oil on the floor. Drip pans, rags, towels....hell I could line the whole fucking garage with plastic, and still manage a spot somewhere.

and that's taking into consideration that the MS3 is one of the cleanest and easiest changes I've owned (aside from a Ford Exploder that I didn't even need to jack up). Exploder #2 : the plug was on the side of the pan so upon removal the oil spewed out and splashed off of the suspension parts. My wife's Murano: I need to remove the front wheel, and a splash guard to access the filter - then I need to wedge a funnel under the filter. My daughter's CRV: the filter is on the side of the block so that oil goes EVERYWHERE. I change that shit in the street....there's no containing it.
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 Old 11-17-2015, 08:25 PM   #28
 
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I used the auto shop on my military base, so I had the car on a lift and they gave me a rolling tank with a tray on top to catch the oil with...there was a good 3 ft between the oil drain plug. That was definitely a rude and hot awakening..needless to say I'm glad I took my uniform top off...

Originally Posted by Shwaykid View Post
I'm more a fan of changing the oil IMMEDIATELY after I shut off the car. That way, when I attempt to spin off the filter (Genwon spin-on conversion for me) I get scathing hot oil on my hand then instinctively drop that filter into the scathing hot pan full of oil so it can then splash all over my shins.
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 Old 11-17-2015, 08:42 PM   #29
 
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Originally Posted by speedre View Post
I used the auto shop on my military base, so I had the car on a lift and they gave me a rolling tank with a tray on top to catch the oil with...there was a good 3 ft between the oil drain plug. That was definitely a rude and hot awakening..needless to say I'm glad I took my uniform top off...

Auto hobby shop is where its at!!! I am there atleast once a week. $5/hr for lift and tools. Cant beat it

Originally Posted by csmaan12 View Post
Mine takes 5.7 usually, wouldn't worry about it honestly. As for the crush washer on the drain plug, I've been reusing it for a year with no leaks whatsoever. Is it recommended to change it, absolutely. Is it a big deal if you don't, not really.

Same with prefilling the filter, recommended for sure, not a huge deal if you forget. Just remember to check your oil after the 5qts and do the dip, wipe, dip because for some reason it will read on minimum even though next time you dip and pull it out it will read the correct level. Not sure why that is, probably some science shit. To sum up, always check the dipstick twice.

I have never changed the crush washer in 4 years lmao. No leak at all.
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 Old 11-17-2015, 09:05 PM   #30
 
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That was my 1st time there, totally worth it! Really wish I had access to that back when I was doing all my bolt on mods...

Originally Posted by ms3gt08 View Post
Auto hobby shop is where its at!!! I am there atleast once a week. $5/hr for lift and tools. Cant beat it




I have never changed the crush washer in 4 years lmao. No leak at all.
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 Old 11-20-2015, 08:27 AM   #31
 
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Originally Posted by ms3gt08 View Post
Auto hobby shop is where its at!!! I am there atleast once a week. $5/hr for lift and tools. Cant beat it




I have never changed the crush washer in 4 years lmao. No leak at all.
It's wedged so hard on the drain plug that I'd probably damage the bolt if I tried to replace it with a new one so I don't even bother. Seals fine so screw it, I'm leaving it on.
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 Old 11-20-2015, 08:48 AM   #32
 
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I miss being military, I used to live in the auto skills centers lmao. People probably still talk about my rx7 build at Ft Campbell because it was in the bay for a full month while I swapped it. I've been wishing someone would open one for civilian use here in Delaware, I heard phili has one but they charge triple what I was used to.

As far as crush washers, I've only changed a few for oil drain (every time with brake lines though). What I found and been using for years on various cars is the magnetic drain plug, it's kind of a nice warning indicator if something is about to fail.

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 Old 11-20-2015, 10:22 AM   #33
 
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This is a hell of a thread for an oil change.
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 Old 11-20-2015, 10:23 AM   #34
 
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Originally Posted by HawkeyeGeoff View Post
This is a hell of a thread for an oil change.

Right? I think he knew how to change his oil like a week ago.
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 Old 11-20-2015, 10:57 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by speedre View Post
I got Mobil 1 synthetic and Mobil 1 filter for $48.
dont waste your money on Mobil 1 next time, its not actually synthetic, its a blend. Use either Rottella T6 which is cheaper or Amsoil which is comparable in price to Mobil 1 but is actually a full synthetic and vastly superior oil


Originally Posted by Shwaykid View Post
I'm more a fan of changing the oil IMMEDIATELY after I shut off the car. That way, when I attempt to spin off the filter (Genwon spin-on conversion for me) I get scathing hot oil on my hand then instinctively drop that filter into the scathing hot pan full of oil so it can then splash all over my shins.
I use rubber gloves for the oil change, that way i can do it hot and i just take off the gloves to stop the burning.
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 Old 11-23-2015, 04:17 PM   #36
 
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a few others recommended either Penzoil platinum or castrol syntec for synthetic. much difference between all these?

Originally Posted by Easter Bunny View Post
dont waste your money on Mobil 1 next time, its not actually synthetic, its a blend. Use either Rottella T6 which is cheaper or Amsoil which is comparable in price to Mobil 1 but is actually a full synthetic and vastly superior oil




I use rubber gloves for the oil change, that way i can do it hot and i just take off the gloves to stop the burning.
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 Old 11-23-2015, 04:28 PM   #37
 
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Originally Posted by speedre View Post
a few others recommended either Penzoil platinum or castrol syntec for synthetic. much difference between all these?
Check out the oil change and U.O.A. threads that are already established.
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 Old 11-23-2015, 04:30 PM   #38
 
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Change your crush washer, use a pair of pliers to get it off. I do it every day

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 Old 11-23-2015, 05:53 PM   #39
 
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Originally Posted by tmillner View Post
Change your crush washer, use a pair of pliers to get it off. I do it every day

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I see no point. Been 4 years and not a drop of oil leaked out
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 Old 11-23-2015, 05:54 PM   #40
 
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Originally Posted by ms3gt08 View Post
I see no point. Been 4 years and not a drop of oil leaked out

I agree. I've done probably 20 changes since I bought the car and I've never leaked a drop.


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