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 Old 11-17-2015, 10:31 AM   #81
 
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Hmm maybe i wont be fine with the intake after all, it might just be me because i tend to get paranoid when i mod a vehicle, but after 500km, i think i may actually lost quite a lot of mpg, like the mpg counter screen show wrong result or something, it drops 1km each 5-800m i travel, on highway with granny foot, and may feel a power loss, but its probably just me.

I should get my obd bluetooth dongle this week, is there a way to be sure with this thing?
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 Old 11-17-2015, 10:42 AM   #82
 
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Originally Posted by Insiatent View Post
Hmm maybe i wont be fine with the intake after all, it might just be me because i tend to get paranoid when i mod a vehicle, but after 500km, i think i may actually lost quite a lot of mpg, like the mpg counter screen show wrong result or something, it drops 1km each 5-800m i travel, on highway with granny foot, and may feel a power loss, but its probably just me.

I should get my obd bluetooth dongle this week, is there a way to be sure with this thing?
Your best investment would be access port, you can find a second hand version 2 one on the sales board if you become a vip member which also worth it. Access port will allow you to see all your ecu parameters, and down the road allow you or and tuner to tune your car. Even tuning your car can with just a intake might get you back some mpg and get you the most out of the intake.

Otherwise obd bluetooth dongle and a app on your phone can give you some of the parameters you might be looking for, but they tend to have bad read rate, so your scope of data is not very accurate, and no where near as good as a access port.
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 Old 11-17-2015, 11:02 AM   #83
 
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Salut!

If I was you I would go full stock for the winter and get your parts/budget during winter and install everything at spring time.

One thing I learned about the gen2 is that it's a hit or miss in regards to the stock fuel pump. You will read some cases on this board where people have a put a SRI and data logged via an AP and they had no values < 1800 psi. On the other hand there have been some cases where people had the exact same build and logged values < 1800...same parts, different values.

This is why most people recommend to upgrade to HPFP/AP as you need to log your fuel pressure. Is it mandatory? No...but are you willing to take the risk? Up to you

Au plaisir!
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 Old 11-17-2015, 11:40 AM   #84
 
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Nah i wouldnt take the risk.
At first i wanted to get a hpfp, but first ill check fuel pressure with the obd2 dongle, it may not be very accurate but it will tell me if i am close to danger zone right? (1200 and minus?)
If its the case then hpfp is next on list, if its fine then AP, hows that sound?

But like you said, i wont get bunch of mods untill next years, only wanted sri and AP
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 Old 11-17-2015, 12:40 PM   #85
 
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For Gen2 it's below 1600 at WOT is the danger zone.
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 Old 11-17-2015, 01:53 PM   #86
 
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Thats still a lot of pressure, how come its too low?
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 Old 11-17-2015, 01:59 PM   #87
 
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Anything bellow 1600 is low.
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 Old 11-19-2015, 02:42 PM   #88
 
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So i got my dongle and made a quick test.

Normal driving: 500-1300 psi fuel rail (depend on speed and climbing)
14-15 AFR

WOT : 1700-1800 psi and 11-12 AFR
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 Old 11-19-2015, 07:16 PM   #89
 
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Oh and 29 AFR on deceleration, thats normal right?

By the way, those number are good right? They looks fine to me.
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 Old 11-20-2015, 07:24 AM   #90
 
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when you release the pedal, pressure and gaz injection decrease. When you completly lift off, you shut down any injection so yes it is all normal...

You need to read the pressure on a constant load/pedal because if for any reason the throtle is released, a lower pressure will be commanded and you may think it is a bad pump when it just do the commanded job.
The same happend when a protections turns on and call the throttle to close, it also command the pressure to drop...
The Cobb AP return a better view when logging more parameter to make sure the pressure drop isn't commanded.

But usually, when you need a pump, you will see at first a very low AFR or rich mixture under wot. It is unusual to see a rich mixture with a lack of gaz pressure but with our pcm there is a protection mode that flood the engine when pressure is too low from a failling pump. Not sure if it really works at protecting it but it could be a sign of a failing pump.
Probably when you go further with more air flow and less fuel, you will get lean conditions, like other car will do.

Anyway AFR below 10 should rings the bell to investigate further. There could be other issues but all of them should be checked...
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 Old 11-20-2015, 07:43 AM   #91
 
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Alright thanks for info.

So at this point im still fine, even with a sri, afr wont go under 11.5 under wot, though like you said, dongle wont be very accurate, i guess i should go for an AP first instead of hpfp at this point.
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 Old 11-20-2015, 02:33 PM   #92
 
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the reading will be accurate but it is the sampling rate that is slow enough to miss something important. A log with the AP will catch a lot more...
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 Old 11-20-2015, 07:47 PM   #93
 
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Alright i get it, mine does a tick rate of about 3 per second.
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 Old 02-18-2016, 09:58 AM   #94
 
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Ok so its been a while and snow is gonna melt in not too long.

I wanna achieve 300whp, no heavy mods, as far as i know i will need.

Cobb AP, OST map untill everything is in, then freektune.
HPFP
CAI and TIP
ITV22 spark plug

And a downpipe, will run 91 fuel.

But my question is, from what ive read, the power gain from a full downpipe is very minimal, and i could get pretty much all that gain with just a racepipe/testpipe, and with minimal cost, and less hassle to install. Is that true?

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 Old 02-18-2016, 11:30 AM   #95
 
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I would be surprise that you can make that much while keeping the first cat. IMO, it is the most restrictive point on the exaust line.

Also, i'm not expert but the 91 fuel would probably need something else to safely reach your goal with a k04. Something like w/meth...E85 etc...
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 Old 02-18-2016, 11:34 AM   #96
 
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Yeah, you're not reaching 300whp with those mods and 91 octane without using E85. Also I think most people would recommend sticking with stock heat range spark plugs as well.

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 Old 02-18-2016, 12:29 PM   #97
 
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Originally Posted by Insiatent View Post
Ok so its been a while and snow is gonna melt in not too long.

I wanna achieve 300whp, no heavy mods, as far as i know i will need.

Cobb AP, OST map untill everything is in, then freektune.
HPFP
CAI and TIP
ITV22 spark plug

And a downpipe, will run 91 fuel.

But my question is, from what ive read, the power gain from a full downpipe is very minimal, and i could get pretty much all that gain with just a racepipe/testpipe, and with minimal cost, and less hassle to install. Is that true?
You're on the right track, just a few notes (sorry if i restate something)

1. At the very least do HPFP and AP at the same time.
2. Ditch the CAI. Because the air your car is sucking in is going to be heated back up by the turbo anyway, your gains going CAI vs SRI are going to be negligible. In addition you can get a bigger SRI than you can a CAI because of space. (I'd recomend JBR or HTP because they replace both the intake and TIP with one pipe.
3. As was stated keep stock heat range plugs.
4. Look into an intercooler upgrade.

After all that with a DP you should at least be close to your goal, and if not you would have to consider a WMI system (which would definitely get you there) or getting less restricted exhaust side.
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 Old 02-18-2016, 12:36 PM   #98
 
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Originally Posted by Speedling6 View Post
You're on the right track, just a few notes (sorry if i restate something)

1. At the very least do HPFP and AP at the same time.
2. Ditch the CAI. Because the air your car is sucking in is going to be heated back up by the turbo anyway, your gains going CAI vs SRI are going to be negligible. In addition you can get a bigger SRI than you can a CAI because of space. (I'd recomend JBR or HTP because they replace both the intake and TIP with one pipe.
3. As was stated keep stock heat range plugs.
4. Look into an intercooler upgrade.

After all that with a DP you should at least be close to your goal, and if not you would have to consider a WMI system (which would definitely get you there) or getting less restricted exhaust side.
+1 on this

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 Old 02-18-2016, 04:44 PM   #99
 
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Sounds good, thanks, and woops i meant sri and not cai, i already have a cobb sri

Theres no such e85 in québec. :\

But about the DP, would it really worth a full dp upgrade with stock k04?

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 Old 02-18-2016, 06:33 PM   #100
 
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Originally Posted by Insiatent View Post
Sounds good, thanks, and woops i meant sri and not cai, i already have a cobb sri
Theres no such e85 in québec. :\

But about the DP, would it really worth a full dp upgrade with stock k04?
Hell yea it'd be worth it. It adds a good bit of power after you tune it plus it give the car a mean growl

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 Old 02-18-2016, 06:45 PM   #101
 
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Alright thanks, i will forget the test pipe and get a downpipe.

What about a cheaper, ebay and catless dp?
Like this one Stainless Racing Turbo Downpipe Exhaust 07 13 Mazda 3 MPS 2 3 Turbo MAZDASPEED3 | eBay
Are they known to not fit right, break easily or something?
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 Old 02-18-2016, 07:31 PM   #102
 
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Originally Posted by Insiatent View Post
Alright thanks, i will forget the test pipe and get a downpipe.

What about a cheaper, ebay and catless dp?
Like this one Stainless Racing Turbo Downpipe Exhaust 07 13 Mazda 3 MPS 2 3 Turbo MAZDASPEED3 | eBay
Are they known to not fit right, break easily or something?
Check out Ultimate Racing DP and RP they are in Canada.
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 Old 02-18-2016, 08:40 PM   #103
 
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eBay downpipes are hit or miss. Some people have no problems with them and others aren't worth a damn.
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 Old 02-19-2016, 05:37 AM   #104
 
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Custom Tune, 3.5 inch intake, top mount IC upgrade, HPFP, test pipe.

This should get you very close with 91 octane only.

Colder plugs ONLY IF your tuner is exhausting all efforts to reduce kr without pulling too much timing.
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 Old 02-19-2016, 06:52 AM   #105
 
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Numbers are numbers though. Doing that will make your car a blast to drive and that's what really matters

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 Old 02-19-2016, 07:13 AM   #106
 
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Originally Posted by GEE1989 View Post
Numbers are numbers though. Doing that will make your car a blast to drive and that's what really matters

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Exact, peoples takes goal looking at other cars but numbers are just numbers, especially if you mix Mustang dyno WHP with Dynojet or VD...
i don't want to start a debate on it but just mention it is different units of measure where it makes a goal harder or easier to reach.

Then trying to do everything at once it isn't always the best, someone can take is time and install parts in the correct order to upgrade it more and more...

You can probably just start with the AP and HPFP to release some HP if you don't want the DP yet.
Then a DP with a shelf tune for a more significant upgrade.
Then a new and larger SRI than the stock 2.64'' ID + TIH
IC upgrade, (read and pick the one that suit your best needs between tmic or fmic)
W/M + a tune
3 way EBC
Than your k04 may start smoking and instead of replacing it, you could enlarge it

It often a never ending story....
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 Old 02-19-2016, 07:32 AM   #107
 
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Originally Posted by Jeff23spl View Post
Exact, peoples takes goal looking at other cars but numbers are just numbers, especially if you mix Mustang dyno WHP with Dynojet or VD...
i don't want to start a debate on it but just mention it is different units of measure where it makes a goal harder or easier to reach.

Then trying to do everything at once it isn't always the best, someone can take is time and install parts in the correct order to upgrade it more and more...

You can probably just start with the AP and HPFP to release some HP if you don't want the DP yet.
Then a DP with a shelf tune for a more significant upgrade.
Then a new and larger SRI than the stock 2.64'' ID + TIH
IC upgrade, (read and pick the one that suit your best needs between tmic or fmic)
W/M + a tune
3 way EBC
Than your k04 may start smoking and instead of replacing it, you could enlarge it

It often a never ending story....
Haha you said my story pretty well. If you want reliable go little by little and have every mod tuned. I started with intake, hpfp internals, rmm and ap. When I got that I said this will be good enough for what I want....... then I got used to it and got turbo back exhaust and tmic. Not too long after that was tuned, bye bye turbo. Stock turbo went. So I got the corksport turbo. Had that all tuned then timing chain failed, skipped timing, went zoom zoom boom. So just be prepared to spend some serious money. Im not saying this will happen to everyone but I'm just saying as you keep adding mods...... shit happens!!!

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 Old 02-19-2016, 07:40 AM   #108
 
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Im not saying this to deter you from modding but I was prepared to spend money if shit went south. Rebuilding isnt cheap. I don't know what you're budget is or anything but just be smart and make sure you do regular maintenance and get shit tuned!!!! E tune is 200. Factor that into every mod you get

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 Old 02-19-2016, 08:27 AM   #109
 
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Yeah thanks! I have been saying 300whp but heck it doesnt have to be exactly there, dont want heavy mods like i said, its still my DD cars, even for winters... Id rather avoid using meth inj.

For now ill focus on hpfp and AP.
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 Old 02-19-2016, 08:38 AM   #110
 
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It'll be a nice fun car to daily drive that's for sure. You might want to look at getting one of these oil feed banjo bolts that's supposed to help with the k04 from smoking. I haven't used it but maybe some other members could vouch for this?

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 Old 02-19-2016, 08:38 AM   #111
 
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Originally Posted by GEE1989 View Post
It'll be a nice fun car to daily drive that's for sure. You might want to look at getting one of these oil feed banjo bolts that's supposed to help with the k04 from smoking. I haven't used it but maybe some other members could vouch for this?

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 Old 02-19-2016, 09:09 AM   #112
 
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It took me 20 minutes to learn to drive a manual. The only tricky part is starting on a hill in traffic... once you get moving its pretty easy.
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 Old 02-19-2016, 10:42 AM   #113
 
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Originally Posted by GEE1989 View Post
Attachment 221939

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Will check thanks

And by the way, i got used to manual a while ago now XD
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 Old 02-19-2016, 10:44 AM   #114
 
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Once you learn you'll never want a car that's not manual

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 Old 02-19-2016, 10:46 AM   #115
 
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True, now i dont want to go back to auto, ever.
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 Old 02-19-2016, 12:15 PM   #116
 
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The k04 spin very fast and make a lot of heat when you try to take it up to 300whp so is lifespan decrease a bit quicker...

There is a lot of thread about it and about few option to help.

PS please stop using ''winter driving'' as an excuse. I DD mine too in the same conditions with a BT and meth :-)
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 Old 02-19-2016, 12:53 PM   #117
 
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Yeah, your right, i could consider meth but not untill a while
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 Old 02-19-2016, 03:35 PM   #118
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Comes in reconsidering first mod, leaves considering meth. Typical.
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 Old 02-19-2016, 03:40 PM   #119
 
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Originally Posted by SofaKingAwesome View Post
Comes in reconsidering first mod, leaves considering meth. Typical.
Thats how we do, son.

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 Old 02-19-2016, 03:45 PM   #120
 
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Knowledge is power lol

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