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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I should get my obd bluetooth dongle this week, is there a way to be sure with this thing? |
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Otherwise obd bluetooth dongle and a app on your phone can give you some of the parameters you might be looking for, but they tend to have bad read rate, so your scope of data is not very accurate, and no where near as good as a access port.
__________________ Perfromace Bits JBR Chromoly 88A RMM/JBR Powerpath Stage 2/JBR SSP/Access Port V2/Dizzy Tuning 91 tune/ CorkSport HPFP Internals Ricer Bits RallyArmor Mudflaps Black-Red/Eonon GA7163 | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Salut! If I was you I would go full stock for the winter and get your parts/budget during winter and install everything at spring time. One thing I learned about the gen2 is that it's a hit or miss in regards to the stock fuel pump. You will read some cases on this board where people have a put a SRI and data logged via an AP and they had no values < 1800 psi. On the other hand there have been some cases where people had the exact same build and logged values < 1800...same parts, different values. This is why most people recommend to upgrade to HPFP/AP as you need to log your fuel pressure. Is it mandatory? No...but are you willing to take the risk? Up to you ![]() Au plaisir! |
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![]() | | #84 | ![]() |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Nah i wouldnt take the risk. At first i wanted to get a hpfp, but first ill check fuel pressure with the obd2 dongle, it may not be very accurate but it will tell me if i am close to danger zone right? (1200 and minus?) If its the case then hpfp is next on list, if its fine then AP, hows that sound? But like you said, i wont get bunch of mods untill next years, only wanted sri and AP |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score For Gen2 it's below 1600 at WOT is the danger zone. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Thats still a lot of pressure, how come its too low? |
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__________________ 2006 Mazdaspeed 6, AccessPORT V2, CP-E CAI, Catless DP, and Solid MM's. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score So i got my dongle and made a quick test. Normal driving: 500-1300 psi fuel rail (depend on speed and climbing) 14-15 AFR WOT : 1700-1800 psi and 11-12 AFR |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Oh and 29 AFR on deceleration, thats normal right? By the way, those number are good right? They looks fine to me. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score when you release the pedal, pressure and gaz injection decrease. When you completly lift off, you shut down any injection so yes it is all normal... You need to read the pressure on a constant load/pedal because if for any reason the throtle is released, a lower pressure will be commanded and you may think it is a bad pump when it just do the commanded job. The same happend when a protections turns on and call the throttle to close, it also command the pressure to drop... The Cobb AP return a better view when logging more parameter to make sure the pressure drop isn't commanded. But usually, when you need a pump, you will see at first a very low AFR or rich mixture under wot. It is unusual to see a rich mixture with a lack of gaz pressure but with our pcm there is a protection mode that flood the engine when pressure is too low from a failling pump. Not sure if it really works at protecting it but it could be a sign of a failing pump. Probably when you go further with more air flow and less fuel, you will get lean conditions, like other car will do. Anyway AFR below 10 should rings the bell to investigate further. There could be other issues but all of them should be checked...
__________________ Mazda for life...or until i can afford something better... 2007 rusted Speed6... Forged with meth and a 3076 in progress... 1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB 2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts 1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup Wife drive 2010 CX7 2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it) ...Because French Canadian... If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks.... Last edited by Jeff23spl; 11-20-2015 at 02:36 PM. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Alright thanks for info. So at this point im still fine, even with a sri, afr wont go under 11.5 under wot, though like you said, dongle wont be very accurate, i guess i should go for an AP first instead of hpfp at this point. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score the reading will be accurate but it is the sampling rate that is slow enough to miss something important. A log with the AP will catch a lot more...
__________________ Mazda for life...or until i can afford something better... 2007 rusted Speed6... Forged with meth and a 3076 in progress... 1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB 2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts 1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup Wife drive 2010 CX7 2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it) ...Because French Canadian... If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks.... |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Alright i get it, mine does a tick rate of about 3 per second. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Ok so its been a while and snow is gonna melt in not too long. I wanna achieve 300whp, no heavy mods, as far as i know i will need. Cobb AP, OST map untill everything is in, then freektune. HPFP CAI and TIP ITV22 spark plug And a downpipe, will run 91 fuel. But my question is, from what ive read, the power gain from a full downpipe is very minimal, and i could get pretty much all that gain with just a racepipe/testpipe, and with minimal cost, and less hassle to install. Is that true? Last edited by Insiatent; 02-18-2016 at 10:16 AM. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I would be surprise that you can make that much while keeping the first cat. IMO, it is the most restrictive point on the exaust line. Also, i'm not expert but the 91 fuel would probably need something else to safely reach your goal with a k04. Something like w/meth...E85 etc...
__________________ Mazda for life...or until i can afford something better... 2007 rusted Speed6... Forged with meth and a 3076 in progress... 1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB 2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts 1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup Wife drive 2010 CX7 2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it) ...Because French Canadian... If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks.... |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yeah, you're not reaching 300whp with those mods and 91 octane without using E85. Also I think most people would recommend sticking with stock heat range spark plugs as well. Last edited by broda; 02-18-2016 at 12:31 PM. |
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1. At the very least do HPFP and AP at the same time. 2. Ditch the CAI. Because the air your car is sucking in is going to be heated back up by the turbo anyway, your gains going CAI vs SRI are going to be negligible. In addition you can get a bigger SRI than you can a CAI because of space. (I'd recomend JBR or HTP because they replace both the intake and TIP with one pipe. 3. As was stated keep stock heat range plugs. 4. Look into an intercooler upgrade. After all that with a DP you should at least be close to your goal, and if not you would have to consider a WMI system (which would definitely get you there) or getting less restricted exhaust side. | |
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__________________ 08 MS3 Corksport turbo, built motor, meth injection, and FREEKTUNED | |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Sounds good, thanks, and woops i meant sri and not cai, i already have a cobb sri ![]() Theres no such e85 in québec. :\ But about the DP, would it really worth a full dp upgrade with stock k04? Last edited by Insiatent; 02-18-2016 at 05:17 PM. |
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__________________ 08 MS3 Corksport turbo, built motor, meth injection, and FREEKTUNED | |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Alright thanks, i will forget the test pipe and get a downpipe. What about a cheaper, ebay and catless dp? Like this one Stainless Racing Turbo Downpipe Exhaust 07 13 Mazda 3 MPS 2 3 Turbo MAZDASPEED3 | eBay Are they known to not fit right, break easily or something? |
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__________________ Cobb shifter weight, CBE, RSB, knob Corksport BPV, boost tubes, SRI, TIP ,Ex hangers,80 Duro RMM & TMM insert CP-E TMIC, UR test pipe & catted DP, Hypertech, Autotechs. JBR Coolant bypass, intake gasket, air filter & BP hose.Konig wheels. Sure, FSB bushings. Last edited by blue speed; 02-18-2016 at 10:24 PM. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score eBay downpipes are hit or miss. Some people have no problems with them and others aren't worth a damn. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Custom Tune, 3.5 inch intake, top mount IC upgrade, HPFP, test pipe. This should get you very close with 91 octane only. Colder plugs ONLY IF your tuner is exhausting all efforts to reduce kr without pulling too much timing.
__________________ Black Mica 2006 Speed6 GT | 62,000 Miles Cobb AP | Stratified Tune Stage 1 OTS | JBR Stage II Intake | cp-e 3'' Straight Exhaust | JBR RMM | SURE AGS 600 Gram Shift Knob | SURE Anchors | SURE Return | SURE SSP/Weight | All Redline Fluids | Shell T6 | Forge V1 ms6db.com I'm Registered. Are You? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Numbers are numbers though. Doing that will make your car a blast to drive and that's what really matters Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
__________________ 08 MS3 Corksport turbo, built motor, meth injection, and FREEKTUNED |
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i don't want to start a debate on it but just mention it is different units of measure where it makes a goal harder or easier to reach. Then trying to do everything at once it isn't always the best, someone can take is time and install parts in the correct order to upgrade it more and more... You can probably just start with the AP and HPFP to release some HP if you don't want the DP yet. Then a DP with a shelf tune for a more significant upgrade. Then a new and larger SRI than the stock 2.64'' ID + TIH IC upgrade, (read and pick the one that suit your best needs between tmic or fmic) W/M + a tune 3 way EBC Than your k04 may start smoking and instead of replacing it, you could enlarge it It often a never ending story....
__________________ Mazda for life...or until i can afford something better... 2007 rusted Speed6... Forged with meth and a 3076 in progress... 1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB 2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts 1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup Wife drive 2010 CX7 2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it) ...Because French Canadian... If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks.... | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Im not saying this to deter you from modding but I was prepared to spend money if shit went south. Rebuilding isnt cheap. I don't know what you're budget is or anything but just be smart and make sure you do regular maintenance and get shit tuned!!!! E tune is 200. Factor that into every mod you get Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
__________________ 08 MS3 Corksport turbo, built motor, meth injection, and FREEKTUNED |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Yeah thanks! I have been saying 300whp but heck it doesnt have to be exactly there, dont want heavy mods like i said, its still my DD cars, even for winters... Id rather avoid using meth inj. For now ill focus on hpfp and AP. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score It'll be a nice fun car to daily drive that's for sure. You might want to look at getting one of these oil feed banjo bolts that's supposed to help with the k04 from smoking. I haven't used it but maybe some other members could vouch for this? Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
__________________ 08 MS3 Corksport turbo, built motor, meth injection, and FREEKTUNED |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score It took me 20 minutes to learn to drive a manual. The only tricky part is starting on a hill in traffic... once you get moving its pretty easy. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score And by the way, i got used to manual a while ago now XD | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Once you learn you'll never want a car that's not manual Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score True, now i dont want to go back to auto, ever. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The k04 spin very fast and make a lot of heat when you try to take it up to 300whp so is lifespan decrease a bit quicker... There is a lot of thread about it and about few option to help. PS please stop using ''winter driving'' as an excuse. I DD mine too in the same conditions with a BT and meth :-)
__________________ Mazda for life...or until i can afford something better... 2007 rusted Speed6... Forged with meth and a 3076 in progress... 1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB 2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts 1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup Wife drive 2010 CX7 2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it) ...Because French Canadian... If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks.... |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Yeah, your right, i could consider meth but not untill a while |
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| COCKSTRONG ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Your Mom's House
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Comes in reconsidering first mod, leaves considering meth. Typical.
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__________________ 2006 Black Mica Mazdaspeed 6 GT Power: JBR Tru 3" aluminium wide path intake; CP-e TMIC; Autotech HPFP internals Tuning: Cobb Acessport V3; Custom FREEKTUNE Support: Corksport RMM; Corksport Rear Diff Brace; Sure Jugg | |
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__________________ 08 MS3 Corksport turbo, built motor, meth injection, and FREEKTUNED |
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