First MS3 Uograde
 

Well, sort of an upgrade. I bought a Cobb AP and uploaded the Stage 1 tune since my 2011 is stock, and being my DD and economy car, will remain so. What should I expect from the new map? The car felt a little healthier going to town this morning, but what I'm really hoping for is the correction of the pig rich factory tune.

Thanks!

I'm curious as well.
I've read that MPG will improve, but no gauge as to how much.

If you plan on remaining stock then why did you even buy the AP to begin with?

You expect results from a tuning device, on a completely stock car...fail. Then plan on staying stock, more fail.

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He says now that he'll remain stock. I said the same thing when i got mine.. "oh it's fast enough as it is." fuck that shit

Please let us know if you see any differences in fuel economy with stock tune. I am pretty curious about this as well.

There are definitely gains to be had on an otherwise stock car with just a tune. Granted not much of a gain on an OTS tune, but an etune will net some healthy extra power.

To answer the question, the stage1 OTS map on an otherwise stock car will lean out AFRs some and take care of the torque reduction in the first 3 gears.

isnt there an economy map? pretty sure there is for my 09.

^Yes but basically all it does is lowers boost and redline to FORCE you to drive conservatively. Just doing those things on the regular map would net the same economy.

OP, can you post some proper WOT (Wide Open Throttle) logs from 3000 to 6500 RPM's? Some minor tuning could help.

I think it would be cool to find out what these cars can do with ONLY a tune from a reputable tuner and nothing else. Has anyone else tried this? @atvfreek

@Bucker did. I think he got 40whp or something crazy out of it.

If I recall correctly, the final "Super Stock" tune I put together was at 16 PSI and made right about 270whp. The only mods were AP and Autotech CDFP internals (not necessary though).

will it at least fix his concern of


"hoping for is the correction of the pig rich factory tune"

Yes.

You can defintely gain 30+hp just by tuning alone on a car with no mods. Just have to play around a little and get familiar with tuning or have a reputabe etuner hook you up.

while driving approx 50 miles today at exactly the speed llimit i avg about 2-3 mpg better highway w just an AP (waiting on cobb sri in mail) I"m just hoping that I dont see any low fuel pressures after i put on the cobb sri - car still under warranty, dont want to put hpfp in lol From what I'm told and what I read it might happen thou? what do u guys think???

Better safe than sorry, my genpu dipped below 1600psi with just an intake.

Shit, I'm worried about that voiding my warranty thou :/ I can unmarry my AP and put back on my factory airbox, can't put back on your factory fp lol

Well unless the fp fails w/ internals in it you got nothing to worry about. Hell even if it fails theyll probably just replace the whole pump rather than crack the bitch open.

I getcha on that lol, but I'm talking about the manufacturer warranty from Mazda, voiding that lol

Thats what im talking about, factory wty. Say on the off chance your pump does fail with internals. You take your brand new car to the dealer and they link the prob to hpfp failure. I really doubt they would disassemble the pump, theyd prolly just slap a new one on. I really dont think that mazda warranty diag would cover disassembly

i was going to get the Cp-E pumpbec of the warranty - warranty on autotech is only like 1 year, on the Cp-E is lifetime lol, im just worried if i ever have 2 take the car for warrartny work - i can take off the sri & unmarry the ap and unplug battery 2 delete the reflashes, etc....but the fp - if they saw that they might possibly be a dicks about it & try andvoid my warranty, etc

They can only deny a claim if they link the issue at hand to an aftermarket part.

The cpe fp is our fp, they use the core, put their internals in and sell it with a warranty. Thats why you send in a core, if you take it to mazda they still wont be able to tell you bought a cpe fp bc it looks exactly like what you have now. Basically cpe saves you the "work" of opening up your fp and swapping the internals yourself and risking fucking up something like soooo many do, mainly with KMD.

Well, a couple of you answered my question about the Stage 1 tune correcting the overly rich factory setup. As for being a pussy for not modding the MS3, note that my non-daily driver is a C5 Corvette with a Procharged 427 (GM C5R race block) that just dynoed at 798 at the wheels on only 8 psi of boost. So a little hot rodding doesn't scare me.

I haven't done any air/fuel logging, but the car definitely feels livelier. The improvement isn't dramatic, but it just seems happier, even below 4000.

It's pretty amazing the folks that don't know this.

No need for a economy tune, just stay out of the boost.

Economy mode = regulate your right foot!

im completely stock with a tune. with mix city/hwy i get 306 miles to a tank with 1 square on guage left. car feels great with the ots tune and stf and ltf are awesome. true i will mod more later but for know it is my DD and my mustang see's track duty for drag but not as much since kids came along. ms3 is gonna be for twisties. with wife and kids i feel better with waranty on this car and suspension parts dont void anything except what i replaced with aftermarket. plust the car seat mod is great.

plan to do a sri and tip and internals and call it done on engine. rear sway bar is next then suspension time. i plan on getting every inch of my waranty.

i got a healthy boost from stage 1 93 ots tune. the tq limit 1-3 are gone and it feels like a new car lol. boost max is 16.9 but 16.3 and up for most of the run

plan on trying a e-tune for a little more but since its a DD im not going crazy. the 408 goes into the stang next week and that should satisfy me for a day or two lol. it only took 3 years to build motor with life expenses.

and it is not a fail to be stock. im still faster than 95% of the cars i mess with. brake boosting will get a new 5.0 stang to stop trying... something about 6 car lengths instantly make them think but they do catch back up if we stay in it. just takes awhile :D


here is the log and graph

You sure you're putting 6 car lengths on a new 5.0....? I hate mustangs, and love to see them die/blow up/crash/lose in races, but I find that too hard to believe.

When I first bought my car it was bone stock. Around 3,000 miles I had it dyno'ed on a Dynapack, 3 pulls. Then I had them install a Cobb SF intake, TIP, and AP and flash the OTS Stage 1 map. The car had a couple hours to cool down, but then I had then dyno it again, 3 more pulls, same day, same dyno. Net result? 24whp and 43lbs/ft gain at the wheels. And of course the governors in gears 1-3 were removed. Ambient temps were around 65F (It was January but inside a shop). See 1st image.

I drove out of there and the car sounded and went great until I hit fuel cut about 2 miles down the road. So much for "Agile" Automotive Performance. They should've warned me about the fuel pump.

Since then I've added a test pipe and Autotech CDFP. I also me-tuned it to about 18psi. Based on the 1.01 correction factor and VD, I've added about 15 more whp and about 60 lbs/ft of torque ON TOP OF the stage 1 gains. These "stage 2" gains are probably understated since a Dynapack reads high like a Dynojet. The test pipe and me tune were probably worth more like 20whp and 75 lbs/ft of more torque at the wheels. I might take it back and have it put on the very same dyno in January to know for sure.

Bottom line, the very best thing you can do for a first mod(s) is bite the bullet and buy the "combo pack" which is AP and internals. That $1,000, along with some of your own tuning will get you more bang for the buck then anything else hp per $$$. I've easily added over 110lbs/ft gain at the wheels (using Dynojet numbers remember) with just these few simple mods and still get around 31mpg on the highway.

I really can't wait to get it back on that same Dynapack with same ambient conditions. It really feels good now. I have a feeling comparing a Dynapack to VD @ 1.01 CF is like apples to oranges. I am currently restricting 1st gear to 35%. It sometimes will hook up. Then it'll spin the tires in 2nd, even just stomping it in 2nd gear from 2,500rpms it'll race right to redline blazing the Dunlops (I don't restrict 2nd gear because I like to go to the track often and on the street I just lift a little off the gas to stop the spinning in 2nd). Third gear makes the car slowly weave back and forth even on totally flat and smooth roads, requiring both hands on the wheel. Even 4th gear will require both hands on the wheel if the road is not level. Now, we all know that MS3s are known for their torque steer but it most definitely does not drive like a stock MS3. A stock MS3 can hardly spin the wheels in any gear much.

If I throw some recent logs into VD with a Dynojet correction factor (to simulate a Dynapack) I get the 2nd image, just about 300whp and 360lbs/ft at the wheels. (I am still tweaking things always, I know there is a boost spike there but really it only affects the yellow run).



Man I'd give my left nut for your T-Type, looks pretty stock there. Didn't they come w t-tops (as opposed to a GN which you could not get t-tops in I believe). Beautiful car man.

Even if the AP added no power, it makes the car so much better to drive. Stock tune sucks so much ass its not even funny.
Good buy OP

yes brake boost at 30 mph. stang spins mazda goes....

have had fun with a couple around dallas... now they start to come back hard if they decide to stay in it but it takes awhile to catch up.

try it and have fun lol

Wonder what I could do with what's in my signature... I spun in 3rd at 35 last night :burnout:

remember im stock with tune. dont spin like you modded guys

That's just because your tires aren't worn enough lol.


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My car is 100% stock and I loaded the stage0 map, is that right? why did the op load stage1 and also the car feels better to drive but the gas pedal feels lighter for some reason. excuse my ignorance!

The stage one is designed for a factory car. Stage 0 is a factory tune and is a non performance map. Cobb ots maps tend to be more linear than the factory tune.