FMIC VS COILS
 

As title states I need opinions, already thinking about my tax return and it's a throw up between the CP-E FMIC VS coils
Thoughts?

Well do you want cooler bats or improved suspension

personally i would get the fmic out of the way and make good use of ur other mods, springs later.. my .02

I would get sway bar upgrades first.

BT

The coils aren't really what's holding the suspension back. It's the dampers.
So my question to his question is, how far are you planning to take the build?
An fmic won't net you really any gains on until your turbo becomes a flame thrower. Even then, maxing out your turbo through an fmic is still gonna result in high bats.
You may even lose power and gain lag on a stock tune.
If you're just planning to rice around town and don't care how the car rides, get the coils.

Edit.
Just read op's mods.
Fmic all the way.
Then driver mod.
Then a real suspension.

Working on driver mod lol
I'll have to research dampeners
Yeah planning on BT eventually I dunno
Thoughts are definitely appreciated keep em coming!

It really depends on what you want. I have coilovers and obviously springs/shocks will not give you the ability to regulate ride height and damping. Coilovers are not cheap by any means, but if you ever plan on tracking your car you should consider them.

The FMIC will definitely give you a performance jump, especially if you live in a hot weather area.

If I could do it all over again, I would have bought my FMIC first.

Thanks for your input

If you are seriously considering BT then FMIC. You can piece together some springs and struts/shocks later on. The CS springs seem to have a nice drop, and my HR's do a decent job as well. Just be warned, the stock struts/shocks suck ass and it becomes more apparent if you reduce your ride height without upgrading them.

I guess it really depends on what you want. If it's going to be a while before you go BT then coils are fine. If you are really leaning towards going BT soon then get the FMIC.

Fuck it..Just blow the tax return on both items.

That's my thing, the car will be paid off by the time I can go BT or at least out of warranty. This is my first new car and I want to make it last. I'll probably keep it after I get my next car and use it as a track toy for auto x or something.

So I know I need both items available as I want to do 3071-76 gtx tbd. Not sure I can do both though my insurance is due around the same time and 19 years old+tickets suck
Ehh I have time......
Again thanks for the input!!

as much as I hate to suggest it(I'm not a fan of buying used suspension).. buy used and you can afford both.
If you do decide this route. Buy the suspension local(most coilovers come with lifetime warrenties) This way you can still use the warrenty.

Hmmmm MAP performance is pretty close.....

@maperformance
Do you sell coils
CP-e FMIC?
Can I come talk to you guys?
PM me
Thanks grumpyjap

i recommend you save some money and dont get the cp-e kit i wish i never bought it, this fmic is garbage paper thin tubes bend with simple clamps and its only 2.25 inches instead of 2.5 and both hot and cold pip run down same side and make it near impossible to fit anything else. And the hot side bracket broke and i had to pay 50$ to get a new one re welded. all the powder coating got inside my tubes when they made my kit and its peeling off inside and out, i really really really hate this kit its total garbage

not to mention the kit NEW was missing a 90 coupler that goes from out port of core and to piping, mark@streetunit hat to overnight a me a new coupler just so i could get my car on the road.

i hate my cp-e fmic if anyone wants to buy it ill gladly go full custom for half the price i paid for this shitbag brand new

worst 1250$ i ever spent

i thought if i bought the most expensive kit i would get the best features but noooo did not work out that way AT ALL

Whoa @Grumpyjap
I know your with CP-E why wasn't this man taken care of?
This is concerning for me

Not a huge fan of custom set ups and picked CP-E for the core size and solid looking replacement crash bar may be reconsidering UR

hmmm @PapaSmurf , I know your car is down but how is the fit and finish of the UR kit and have you seen the CP-E kit?

I don't know his story so I can't really say anything about his situation, so I can only provide my opinions. Keep in mind I do NOT work for cp-e, just a sponsored car and I am in no way trying to dismiss what happened to Nitr0Engi.
That weld, as well as the powder coat, would have been covered under the lifetime warranty. The clamps are T-bolt clamps so they're not the crappy screw hose clamps. The 2.25" piping helps with turbo lag. The piping is not paper thin, I have the same kit and I've had both the COBB and cp-e piping in my hands, they feel to be the same thickness if not they're within microns of each other.
I do agree with him about the piping running down the same side, but there isn't really much you would put where the piping runs anyway.
That coupler was definitely a major suck that it was missing if he contacted cp-e directly I'm sure it would have been taken care of. Mark and Street Unit always do the right thing. They always provide some of the best customer service so I'm glad that issue was resolved in such a positive way.

The FMIC that Nitro is referring to is also a different kit altogether.

The kit for the gen2 seems to be much higher quality judging from the reviews of the gen1 vs gen2.

I just noticed that he has a gen2. Yes the gen2 kit looks like it's almost bullet proof.

Thanks for the feedback, didn't realize he was Gen 1, I will be sending you a PM shortly concerning another topic. Its good to hear that Street unit took care of him, just concerned about an expensive kit having so many issues. Hopefully you can understand that.

again thanks for the great feedback!

good to hear!
@rfinkle, any issues with the kit? it looks gorgeous!!

Gen 2 suspension is worlds better than the Gen 1. Much, MUCH better damping and longevity. In fact, after driving it back to back against the KW's I wouldn't upgrade them until they wear out.

FMIC.

I have to be completely honest in that some people have reported recieving the wrong hardware.

That being said, I've heard ZERO complaints about the overall quality of the kit once everything was worked out.

I have no problems recommending the CP-E gen2 kit (I love mine) for anyone looking to possibly upgrade turbos in the future.

when u gonna get coilovers and which ones are you considering?

:beerchug:fortune auto maybe or BC coils
:beerchug:

I would suggest you research into BC's problems. There's been some bad reviews on these forums.

The Fortune ones have had noise issues, but @skeurton can probably give you a detailed review as to how they are doing now.

I have the TEIN and have had no issues after 4000 miles. Fully adjustable and also have electronic damping control.

KW are top of the line, followed by H&R and TEIN. I don't know much about the two you mentioned.

I will be looking into all of the brands before I make a decision...
will probably be going with the FMIC first

I have been looking into coilovers for my car, and KW seems to be limiting their versions available to the KWV3.

I picked Nliitend1's brain, seeing he is extremely knowledgeable suspension wise, and he recommended either KW or H&R.

I don't believe he disliked any of the other brands, but suggested that he preferred the two mentioned above.

MOTONs!!!!

I have the H&Rs these are awesome for daily driving and pretty freakin good on the track. I was worried I would miss being able to adjust the dampening, but in all seriousness, I don;t miss it at all. The progressive spring rates on the H&Rs create a perfect balance between comfort and handling. comfy when you're just driving around and stiff enough when you really need it.

I would go with a good set of coilovers. After the install, the results were the most satisfying compared to the other mods. A mean and firm stance and no more big gap on the front really changed the car aesthetically and handling wise. Wish I had done it sooner!

cp-e woulda fixed the hot pipe if i mail it to them .... and take their time to fix it and me not be able to drive, good customer service would be send me a new or refurbished replacement maybe even with an updated bracket or a working one at the least and allow me to ship the broken one back after my car is on the road.
the smaller piping is no longer ideal for my bigger turbo setup, thats not cp-e fault but its a downside for me. and for the record i did never use the t bolts that came with the kit, i use the really thick and strong clamps street unit use for the boost tubes, they are twice as wide and thick as normal worm clamps and they dont go oval shaped when you tighten them tight.

How much did your lap times improve?

haha, H&R has been my choice for a while.

Forgive me if I missed it, but what you really need to do is get a DP/TP so you can start running stage 2 maps. I like COBB's DP the best personally but, I am sure there are plently of people here who will say I am retarded. Flame on!

Okay I'll take a look at coils maybe I can do some suspension for a while until I'm ready to work on power again......decisions decisions

Hmmmm 1500 dollars
Wondering if I need.....

Either or a downpipe or test pipe, but an upggraded hpfp is essential.

Ya I agree, I would at least get that test pipe. Mine made a noticeable difference.

I will be doing TBE eventually, do you think a intercooler is necessary first? Definitely doing densos soon

I know the beginning is a bit technical, but the meat of the document is Cobb's recommended upgrade path:

http://accessecu.com/support/docs/su...%20Support.pdf

Bump
Any other recommendations thinking TBE now

I would get the HPFP (EA has a sale for AT internals going on right now) as well as a DP. That would free up the restricted stock DP and definitely net some good HP gains, especially allowing you to run a stage 2 map. I would definitely do that before getting coils or an upgraded IC. Plus, leaves some extra cash in your pocket if you have that much to play around with.

He already has internals, at least according to his sig.

I have internals
I wanna do TBE what DP do you guys recommend?

Depends on what you're willing to pay and what setup you want.

If you want to replace your DP+TP (long DP) look into:
CNT (cheapest) offered in catted and catless
Cobb catted
cp-e catted/catless

If you only want the upper portion look into
UR (catted in metal and ceramic choices, catless)
CS (catted/catless)

Cobb, cp-e and UR will not throw CEL codes, but you can always clear them with your AP anyway if you go with the other brands.

Suspension. A car that handles well is more fun.

COBB or cp-e, less connection = less restriction = happier turbo

This is not the Gen 1 we're talking about here. :) Aside from some inherent understeer, the Gen 2 tuning is nearly perfect out of the box. If anything, a rear sway bar or wider tires (IMO).

Anyone have evidence that a cpe or Cobb dp net more gains than a cnt for half the price, and does cx actually make a dp @adlpb

Thanks for that I mixed up the names. To many companies here start with the letter C. Lol. It should have been CNT, not CX

is cnt's DP for the gen 2
Link?
thanks
looking at this point for a cheap one piece DP doesn't seem like name brand matters too much
don't want to spent 500 for a DP

Thanks

So besides $$$$ is there really a difference between the cobb and CNT DP?

Installing the CNT DP is more complicated from what I've read because of how the upper part is designed. It will also throw a CEL code.

Other than that it should be similar performance wise. At least until you go BT. I know the Cobb DP is good with that, not sure if the CNT one is designed for 400+hp, maybe someone can input on that.

It won't throw a cell if it's catted.

3" dp is a 3" dp is a 3" dp....
Doesn't cobb's taper?

I know I've read some people having to hack off the flange on the gen2 to mate it with certain exhausts. (CNT)

I'd say that my test pipe made the biggest gains exhaust wise on my car.

I see almost no difference with my catted dp, although I'm sure it isn't hurting performance.

UR's catted DP used to throw a CEL. I've read some people here with CNT catted that say the same. The CEL is triggered because of where the 02 sensor location, to which the genpu is more sensitive.

Not like it matters anyway if you have an AP...just clear the code.