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 Old 04-14-2014, 06:02 AM   #1
 
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Default Fuel System Too Rich Code??

Hey guys i recently developed a problem with my 2013 MS3. First some background, I have the CS SRI, TIP, race pipe, and catback exhaust. Im using the accessport V3 with the appropriate tune for my modifications. I took the car to the drag strip yesterday and made 4 passes. After the 3rd pass I left the track and headed for some lunch. While driving around town I noticed the car cut out a few times, it just seemed like it lost all power then picked right back up. I got back to the track and made my 4th pass and around 6k rpm it shut down again then picked right back up. I got the car fine no problems after that.

Now this morning the car cut out twice both times at low RPM (2500) during light acceleration from stop lights. Then the service engine light came on, I read the code with my accessport at it said "Fuel System Too Rich" or something along those lines, I dont remember the exact terms.

Has anyone else experienced this? Is this a fuel pump issue?
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 Old 04-14-2014, 08:11 AM   #2
 
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- Check your welcome message

after you make an intro let us know if you currently have the HPFP internals installed. Also, what do you consider "the appropriate tune"?


Post logs!!!
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 Old 04-14-2014, 10:48 AM   #3
 
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Originally Posted by ms6mil View Post
- Check your welcome message

after you make an intro let us know if you currently have the HPFP internals installed. Also, what do you consider "the appropriate tune"?


Post logs!!!
Sorry for the lack of intro Im trying to get this problem fixed ASAP. I do not have HPFP internals.

The tune I am using matches the modifications I have. Its an off the shelf map for the corksport mods I have installed.

I also noticed while driving in 1st gear once I lifted off the gas slightly and the BPV cracked open there was a vilolent shut down of acceleration. This was happening at the very instant I let off throttle just the slightest bit.

As far as I can tell this issue is only happening while the car is cold, It happened when I left work to go to lunch but on the way back with the car warm I couldnt get the shut off to happen.

COBB's helpdesk suggested that it might be a BPV or boost leak? I am still hitting 16-17 pounds.
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 Old 04-14-2014, 10:52 AM   #4
 
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1. a good amount of flow mods, you need internals before something terrible happens
2. this thread is useless without logs
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 Old 04-14-2014, 10:57 AM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by WAMBUSHHHH! View Post
1. a good amount of flow mods, you need internals before something terrible happens
2. this thread is useless without logs
1. something terrible as in what? I am new to the forums here. I thought that unless I upgraded to higher map that I could run the stock FP. Is the only danger running lean on the top end?
2. This problem arose this morning I have not had time to upload logs yet nor have I ever used the logging feature with the V3. Once I am off work I will try to upload some logs but until then this is the only info I have
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 Old 04-14-2014, 11:02 AM   #6
 
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Terrible like vented block terrible.

Although your issue my not be related to the internals, hopefully a more experienced member can clarify, internals are an immediate must. May want to flash a safe mode tune or something.
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 Old 04-14-2014, 11:05 AM   #7
 
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 Old 04-14-2014, 11:07 AM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by MechEnix View Post
Terrible like vented block terrible.

Although your issue my not be related to the internals, hopefully a more experienced member can clarify, internals are an immediate must. May want to flash a safe mode tune or something.
I have no idea what a vented block is?
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 Old 04-14-2014, 11:12 AM   #9
 
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Have you read your welcome PM yet?
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 Old 04-14-2014, 11:14 AM   #10
 
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If it's happening under part throttle might have popped a coupler off. Tighten down all your clamps, check for gross leaks, if you can do a boost leak test. Recommend you do look into some internals soon. Post logs when u can stay out of boost the best you can


Edit: maybe you didn't see this before complaining about having a busy life like the rest of us...
Take the time to learn about your car, or don't bother modding it, or coming here to be spoon fed @davidz28;
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Last edited by ms6mil; 04-14-2014 at 11:44 AM. Reason: OP doesn't like to read.
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 Old 04-14-2014, 11:18 AM   #11
 
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I can't tell at this point if we're being trolled or if the OP hasn't discovered the "search" bar.
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 Old 04-14-2014, 11:20 AM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by davidz28 View Post
I have no idea what a vented block is?
WOW. Must read more. Read the welcome message lots to learn before you mess up your car
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 Old 04-14-2014, 11:29 AM   #13
 
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People please, I am looking for help here. Im working 72 hours a week I dont have spare time to read hours worth of info... I had a problem so I looked to the forums for information from people that have experienced these things before. If anyone has an idea of what could cause the problem please let me know. In the mean time I will do my best to read up on articles on here. I just joined the forum today because of the problem Im experiencing.
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 Old 04-14-2014, 11:51 AM   #14
 
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See my post edit^^^^
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 Old 04-14-2014, 11:52 AM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by ms6mil View Post
If it's happening under part throttle might have popped a coupler off. Tighten down all your clamps, check for gross leaks, if you can do a boost leak test. Recommend you do look into some internals soon. Post logs when u can stay out of boost the best you can


Edit: maybe you didn't see this before complaining about having a busy life like the rest of us...
Take the time to learn about your car, or don't bother modding it, or coming here to be spoon fed @davidz28;
I understand the frustration and I realize Im asking alot here. As soon as I can Im going to read as much as possible. I was hoping I could recieve some information on my issue quickly to save time before I mess something up. Grill me on my lack of knowledge all you want but I am only trying to solve my problem ASAP.
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 Old 04-14-2014, 12:04 PM   #16
 
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You have all those mods and no fuel pump internals. Post some logs so we can see. You should really get the internals. Also. Maybe flash safe mode so you don't accidentally vent the block.


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 Old 04-14-2014, 12:06 PM   #17
 
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For us to effectively help you, you must effectively help us. Logs. If you don't have the time to read, you don't have the time to mod. Plain and simple. In the meantime until you can grab a log, I would run either the safe mode tune or stay out of boost because the car is telling you it doesn't like something and you're flirting with danger by not having internals.


...still not fully convinced we aren't being trolled..
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 Old 04-14-2014, 12:11 PM   #18
 
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Originally Posted by WAMBUSHHHH! View Post
For us to effectively help you, you must effectively help us. Logs. If you don't have the time to read, you don't have the time to mod. Plain and simple. In the meantime until you can grab a log, I would run either the safe mode tune or stay out of boost because the car is telling you it doesn't like something and you're flirting with danger by not having internals.


...still not fully convinced we aren't being trolled..
I will take some logs this evening after work, do I just need to do a 3rd gear pull? (again I know this is probably a stupid question and I apologize) Im reading up more on everything right now.
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 Old 04-14-2014, 12:16 PM   #19
 
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Guess he missed this...

If it's happening under part throttle might have popped a coupler off. Tighten down all your clamps, check for gross leaks, if you can do a boost leak test. Recommend you do look into some internals soon. Post logs when u can stay out of boost the best you can
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 Old 04-14-2014, 12:18 PM   #20
 
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Originally Posted by WAMBUSHHHH! View Post
...still not fully convinced we aren't being trolled..

Yea. He joined this morning to post this. Seems so innocent though.


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 Old 04-14-2014, 12:21 PM   #21
 
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Originally Posted by davidz28 View Post
I will take some logs this evening after work, do I just need to do a 3rd gear pull? (again I know this is probably a stupid question and I apologize) Im reading up more on everything right now.
I will spoon feed you once more, log the below parameters in a 3rd gear WOT log. Start the log at around 2800 - 3000 RPM in 3rd....push the gas like you're trying to push it thew the floor of the car until around 6500 RPMs...end log. You can also do a 4th gear log...same idea as above. PLEASE BE MINDFUL THAT YOU WILL HIT SPEEDS OF ABOUT 100mph in the 4th gear log so don't be an idiot.

Time
Accel. Pedal Pos. (%)
Actual AFR (AFR)
Boost (PSI)
Boost Air Temp. ( F)
Calculated Load (Load)
HPFP Act. Press. (PSI)
Inj. Duty Cycle (%)
Intake Temp. ( F)
Intake Valve Adv. ()
Knock Retard ()
Long Term FT (%)
MAF Voltage (V)
Mass Airflow (g/s)
RPM (RPM)
Short Term FT (%)
Spark Adv. ()
Throttle Position (%)
Vehicle Speed (mph)
Wastegate Duty (%)

I still have a terrible feeling I'm being trollled hard here...but I need good karma so here it is.
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 Old 04-14-2014, 12:27 PM   #22
 
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Follow the advice that ms6mil listed. Do a log and see what your LTFT and STFT look like. If they are jumping around then maybe, boost or vac leak. I had same issues with a dirty MAF sensor, but had a lot more miles. Were you monitoring fuel pressure on your runs? What stage OTS are you running? Even stage 1 can over stress your stock fuel pump. Sounds like you got boost or fuel cut on your last run. The cel is telling you something is going on with your air fuel ratio. MAF, Fuel Pump, Boost Leak, Vac leak, Bad O2 sensor, ... . Get off COBB OTS do a Stratified or Freak OTS+. Your car will run much better and you will be much happier.

Future advice. If you are doing 1/4 mile runs at a drag strip and have an AP. There is no reason you should not be logging that shit. That is the best time to see how your car is liking your mods and tune, or lack of. Logs are the best way and some times only way to figure out what happened after the fact. There is a reason everyone on here is asking for a log.
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 Old 04-14-2014, 12:39 PM   #23
 
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Note the last paragraph before the map list. If you're running a stage two ots map then it requires the internals. And it says to run a safe map until you have internals in the paragraph above


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 Old 04-14-2014, 12:40 PM   #24
 
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Before you go WOT again, for a log or any other reason, flash either a safe tune or stage 1 map. Vented block means snapped connecting rod; the debris exits the side of the block. So you'll need a new engine.
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 Old 04-14-2014, 01:13 PM   #25
 
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This is going to sound stupid but I think i found the problem. I took off work early to come home to do some troubleshooting. Keep in mind I just had this problem this morning going to work. I popped the hood to find my air filter laying in the bottom of the engine compartment. Im sure my MAF is filthy and now im worried about what all my car sucked up inside of it....
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 Old 04-14-2014, 01:22 PM   #26
 
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Originally Posted by davidz28 View Post
This is going to sound stupid but I think i found the problem. I took off work early to come home to do some troubleshooting. Keep in mind I just had this problem this morning going to work. I popped the hood to find my air filter laying in the bottom of the engine compartment. Im sure my MAF is filthy and now im worried about what all my car sucked up inside of it....
hmmmm...

glad you're all over it chief!

If it's happening under part throttle might have popped a coupler off. Tighten down all your clamps, check for gross leaks, if you can do a boost leak test. Recommend you do look into some internals soon. Post logs when u can stay out of boost the best you can
Guessing this is the first time you've popped the hood since the symptoms started.
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 Old 04-14-2014, 01:30 PM   #27
 
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Originally Posted by ms6mil View Post
hmmmm...

glad you're all over it chief!



Guessing this is the first time you've popped the hood since the symptoms started.
Yes symptoms started this morning at 4:30 going to work and I have been at work all day until about 30 minutes ago. I wasn't able to pop the hood at work I just took the slow way home and popped the hood. So I guess now im going to pull the MAF and give it a good clean
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File Type: csv Data Log.csv (25.1 KB, 13 views)
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 Old 04-14-2014, 01:36 PM   #28
 
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The attached data log is not a 4th or 3rd gear pull. this is the log I captured when the car cut out. This happened with the car cold pulling out of a driveway in 1st gear

Originally Posted by WAMBUSHHHH! View Post
I will spoon feed you once more, log the below parameters in a 3rd gear WOT log. Start the log at around 2800 - 3000 RPM in 3rd....push the gas like you're trying to push it thew the floor of the car until around 6500 RPMs...end log. You can also do a 4th gear log...same idea as above. PLEASE BE MINDFUL THAT YOU WILL HIT SPEEDS OF ABOUT 100mph in the 4th gear log so don't be an idiot.

Time
Accel. Pedal Pos. (%)
Actual AFR (AFR)
Boost (PSI)
Boost Air Temp. ( F)
Calculated Load (Load)
HPFP Act. Press. (PSI)
Inj. Duty Cycle (%)
Intake Temp. ( F)
Intake Valve Adv. ()
Knock Retard ()
Long Term FT (%)
MAF Voltage (V)
Mass Airflow (g/s)
RPM (RPM)
Short Term FT (%)
Spark Adv. ()
Throttle Position (%)
Vehicle Speed (mph)
Wastegate Duty (%)

I still have a terrible feeling I'm being trollled hard here...but I need good karma so here it is.
I promise no trolling! go check out FZ-09forums.com and ls1.com. I have quite a few posts on FZ-09 under Davidz28 as well. I appreciate the help.

Last edited by davidz28; 04-14-2014 at 01:36 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 04-14-2014, 01:43 PM   #29
 
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On top of your filter falling off, you might actually be overboosting as well. So there could be a couple of things going on.

1. flash to a safe map until everything is sorted out.

2. do a boost leak test, plug the holes. Clean out the maf and intake

3. set logging parameters to default, to what @WAMBUSHHHH!; stated in post 21

4. Read up and learn to use ATR, so that you can do your own maf calibration. Otherwise pay for an etune from one of the tuners on this forum. It's not the best idea to throw on as many mods as you can without properly tuning for it, at least for safety.

5. Buy internals as soon as your funds allow it.

6. donate for an extra 32hp

7. have fast car!
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 Old 04-14-2014, 01:53 PM   #30
 
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Originally Posted by davidz28 View Post
Yes symptoms started this morning at 4:30 going to work and I have been at work all day until about 30 minutes ago. I wasn't able to pop the hood at work I just took the slow way home and popped the hood. So I guess now im going to pull the MAF and give it a good clean
I'll tell you one thing, that LTFT indicates you could use a MAF Cal. If there is only one thing you read, read this:

https://static.cobbtuning.com/cobbtu...MAZDASPEED.pdf

Read it once through, don't try to understand everything. Then start again from page 1 and follow the document progression to do the basics to dial in your tune.

v2.31 OTS (off the shelf) maps from cobb are only meant to be a starting point IMO (some argue that shouldn't even be that).
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 Old 04-14-2014, 04:49 PM   #31
 
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Update:
Cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF Sensor cleaner checked clamps and hoses. Drove the car no code but its still lurching in 1st gear at low rpm. This is happening about midway through letting out the clutch. I have to wait for the car to cool completely to see if it throws the code again.

When clearing the code I did notice that it says Fuel System Too Rich (Bank 1)
I dont know what this bank 1 means. I realize that I need fuel pump internals but would the lack of internals cause the too rich code? thats the opposite of what would be expected. For now I am going to download a safe map and baby the car around. Does anyone know of a good shop around Raleigh NC? Could I just take it to the dealership? Im to the point now I just want it fixed.
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 Old 04-14-2014, 05:52 PM   #32
 
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Originally Posted by davidz28 View Post
Update:
Cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF Sensor cleaner checked clamps and hoses. Drove the car no code but its still lurching in 1st gear at low rpm. This is happening about midway through letting out the clutch. I have to wait for the car to cool completely to see if it throws the code again.

When clearing the code I did notice that it says Fuel System Too Rich (Bank 1)
I dont know what this bank 1 means. I realize that I need fuel pump internals but would the lack of internals cause the too rich code? thats the opposite of what would be expected. For now I am going to download a safe map and baby the car around. Does anyone know of a good shop around Raleigh NC? Could I just take it to the dealership? Im to the point now I just want it fixed.
This is what happens when noobs mod the car without knowing what they are getting into...

You are injecting fuel for air that isn't there past the point of the ECU's ability to trim. Did you do a boost leak test yet? <--- This is important!!!! Verify that first. Next, if it is indeed just in the tune then no dealership or shop is going to "repair" that unless you're taking it to a shop to be tuned. You may just need a good MAF calibration.

Is the cel you are getting a p0172? post a log with the normal parameters mentioned above. Let's take look at your Inj Duty Cycle, hopefully your injectors are going bad on ya.

On your AP go to logging settings and select default, and add inj duty cycle
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 Old 04-14-2014, 05:54 PM   #33
 
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Again, throw up a log, WOT this time. Get another log not at WOT around the area where the studded occurs.
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 Old 04-14-2014, 07:38 PM   #34
 
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Originally Posted by ms6mil View Post
This is what happens when noobs mod the car without knowing what they are getting into...

You are injecting fuel for air that isn't there past the point of the ECU's ability to trim. Did you do a boost leak test yet? <--- This is important!!!! Verify that first. Next, if it is indeed just in the tune then no dealership or shop is going to "repair" that unless you're taking it to a shop to be tuned. You may just need a good MAF calibration.

Is the cel you are getting a p0172? post a log with the normal parameters mentioned above. Let's take look at your Inj Duty Cycle, hopefully your injectors are going bad on ya.

On your AP go to logging settings and select default, and add inj duty cycle
Im just going to take the car to a shop in Raleigh tomorrow an have it looked at. Hopefully they will be able to sort out the problems. They deal with quite a few Mazdas so I think it will be my best bet. My main concern is getting it fixed quickly.
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 Old 04-14-2014, 07:53 PM   #35
 
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Originally Posted by davidz28 View Post
Im just going to take the car to a shop in Raleigh tomorrow an have it looked at. Hopefully they will be able to sort out the problems. They deal with quite a few Mazdas so I think it will be my best bet. My main concern is getting it fixed quickly.
So instead of doing what everyone, who are also some of the most knowledgeable people with regards to the MS3 platform, told you to do, you're going to take it to some 'performance' shop where they will tell you the same thing the AP told you, as well as try to rip you off, as well as surely do something even dumber than yourself.

I spend a lot more time reading these threads than posting, and I've had parts sitting in boxes for months waiting to be installed when I knew that I had the proper amount of education and time to do them correctly. Furthermore, I don't often agree with the harassing of noob threads, but, you came on here, asked for help, they tried to help you, and then you called it quits when the going got a little tough. I'm almost positive that the people on here will know more than the shop, and I'm starting to think you really are a troll, and if by some chance you're not, you have a lot of reading to do.
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 Old 04-14-2014, 07:54 PM   #36
 
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Originally Posted by davidz28 View Post
Im just going to take the car to a shop in Raleigh tomorrow an have it looked at. Hopefully they will be able to sort out the problems. They deal with quite a few Mazdas so I think it will be my best bet. My main concern is getting it fixed quickly.



Oh well... good luck with that!
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 Old 04-14-2014, 08:00 PM   #37
 
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Originally Posted by MechEnix View Post
So instead of doing what everyone, who are also some of the most knowledgeable people with regards to the MS3 platform, told you to do, you're going to take it to some 'performance' shop where they will tell you the same thing the AP told you, as well as try to rip you off, as well as surely do something even dumber than yourself.

I spend a lot more time reading these threads than posting, and I've had parts sitting in boxes for months waiting to be installed when I knew that I had the proper amount of education and time to do them correctly. Furthermore, I don't often agree with the harassing of noob threads, but, you came on here, asked for help, they tried to help you, and then you called it quits when the going got a little tough. I'm almost positive that the people on here will know more than the shop, and I'm starting to think you really are a troll, and if by some chance you're not, you have a lot of reading to do.
Im taking it to the shop because I need it fixed tomorrow. I cant park the car and let it sit while I try to figure out the issues. I am a complete noob when it comes to these cars and there is no way I can learn all that i need to fast enough to get the car fixed.
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 Old 04-14-2014, 08:01 PM   #38
 
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/thread

I'm out!
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 Old 04-14-2014, 08:01 PM   #39
 
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Originally Posted by davidz28 View Post
Im taking it to the shop because I need it fixed tomorrow. I cant park the car and let it sit while I try to figure out the issues. I am a complete noob when it comes to these cars and there is no way I can learn all that i need to fast enough to get the car fixed.
And so what did you learn?

Don't write checks your ass can't cash.
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 Old 04-14-2014, 08:03 PM   #40
 
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Originally Posted by MechEnix View Post
And so what did you learn?

Don't write checks your ass can't cash.
I can pay whatever need be to get it fixed. I just honestly dont have the know how to correct it fast enough.
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