Future Mod List (Internals? suggestions?)
 

I have a 2010 speed 3 w/tech and I was wondering if I should get fuel pump internals. I'm currently running a RMM, SRI, TIP, and Testpipe. Cars runs amazing. I monitor my pressure everyday and it never dips below 1650 WOT. Usually stays between 1680 and 1780. Seems like I have a good fuel pump from the factory. I hear some people dip to 1500 with just and SRI so I feel lucky. Anyway I have a ton of parts I want to buy and I want your guys opinion on what to do next. I'm pretty set on a JBR rear sway bar next. But after that maybe internals then AP.

The only reason I put the testpipe on was because my fuel pump was holding pressure so well. The testpipe only made my car better so i'm sticking with it. I'm pretty sure 1650 is safe from what I've read.

Future acquisitions in order

1. JBR Rear Sway Bar
2. Ultimate Racing Cat-Back
3. Fuel Pump Internals
4. AP
5. Catted Downpipe
6. Slotted rotors
7. Koni Adjustable Shocks

You're begging for a blown motor. Put in Fuel Pump now. Why ignore peace of mind just to save money until later? You're going to need them anyway.

Everybody holds fuel pressure with mods - UNTIL THEY DON'T

TIS

Just because you got lucky with adding the test pipe doesn't mean it will last forever. Honestly, I would remove the TP until you get Fuel pump internals or run the safe map using the AP until you do. Trust me, your motor will thank you, and so will your wallet.

#3
#4
then everything else

Eh, if he has a way to measure his fuel pressure and he's running the stock map, that order isn't terrible. I had a pretty decent stock fuel pump as well and only started seeing pressure drop when I was targeting 17-17.5 psi, which is quite a bit higher than stock.

Ya but the second you start fucking with the exhaust without a fuel pump upgrade, you are begging to get raped. A $350 dollar part to prevent a 4K replacement engine? I mean, come on. Like I said, just because he is lucky now, does not mean it will last.

Also OP, since you do not have an AP yet, what are you using to monitor FP?

I redid your list in order of importance.

Fuel Pump Internals
AP
Catted Downpipe
JBR Rear Sway Bar
Koni Adjustable Shocks (might as well get some Swift Springs as well)
Slotted rotors
Ultimate Racing Cat-Back

Fixed to insure the prevention of ZZB.

I'm curious about this too...

Not to get off topic but your avatar is nuts haha.

It seems like there's been a shit ton of these useless mod list threads lately. Inb4 "How did my motor blow with just an sri and tp?"

This isn't the order I would do mods in. I got an AP -> SRI -> internals. The stock map is a load tune, and the car isn't going to let him hit crazy load levels like if he was running an OTS map. IMO if he gets internals before he starts flashing maps he'll be fine.

Most people who do this are flashing maps -> adding TP with no internals = ZZB.

Oh I know, I'm just saying the order he is going, he is asking for trouble. Honestly, an AP and internals should be the very first mods needed if anyone plans on modifying this car. But the point is not the fact about getting internals before flashing maps. He messed with the exhaust which is asking for trouble on the Gen2 in terms of the FP crapping out. People had their cars take a shit with less than the OP has, and IMO he is playing with fire without running internals, or even an AP at this point. He maybe lucky now, but his luck may and will run out, an not in a good way.

Is a anyone else wondering how the fuck he is monitoring fuel pressure without an AP?


Sent from my iBro 5 using tapatalk, Bro!

Ya, I asked that question earlier and am very curious still.

The only thing might be is i wonder what your a/f is starting to look like?

Alright you guys probably right. I just submitted my ordered for internals to be safe. Will have them installed by next week.

I monitor my pressure with the torque pro app. Ordered a quality OBDII bluetooth adapter and it works flawlessly. It allows me to log all my car data and even record video with gauges. I highly recommend it for those who do not monitor their vehicle.

Here is my updated list:

1. Internals
2. JBR Rear Sway Bar
3. AP
4. Ultimate Racing Cat-Back
5. Catted Downpipe
6. Slotted rotors
7. Koni Adjustable Shocks

If anyone is wondering I went with autotech.

If I had the capability of reaching into my monitor to smack you I would.

Are you using the logging feature to monitor your fuel pressure during 4th gear WOT logs?

I redid your list to help keep from blowing your engine.

The fucking Swaybar and the Catback can wait. The Catback should be last on your list because it does very little for our cars until you are making 300+ HP. At least you were smart enough to ask the right questions.

Didn't say he had it but dashhawk maybe? Idk. Shot in the dark.


Tapa tapa tapatalk

Relax. It's not the end of the word. Yes, I monitor 4th gear WOT and I'm logging. I ran with both my torque pro app and ScanXL Pro on my laptop. They both output the same information. My pressure stays above 1650 the whole time.

I appreciate every suggestion. Thank you so much for your input! :notworthy: I bought the internals based on everyone suggestions and the AP will come very soon I promise.

Honestly the order of my mods is preference. I like the way my car runs but I want to get some better sound and a flatter cornering since I drive in the CA canyons everyday. Plus I hate the look of the stock muffler tips.

What part of California are you in? I would think keeping your motor intact would be a higher priority. Getting an engine replaced under warranty or rebuilding an engine out of poscket are both miserable experiences, I assure you.

I have the Tri Point Swaybar and endlinks and I do like it more than the other availlabe options out there. Tri Point, as a company, can go suck a big fat dick otherwise. Do not ever get any work done by them.

If the stock muffler tips bother you that much you can get a resonator delete and some 3" stainless tips added on from any decent muffler shop. That way you can get the looks and the sound for dirt cheap.

I'm in Los Angeles. I drive all over the San Fernando Valley, Foothills and Malibu area so handling is a priority for me. My motor seems pretty solid and is handling these mods like a champ. If it comes down to rebuilding or replacing I'm okay with it. I'm not that hard on my motor honestly. I never drag race or go to the track. I just love driving spiritedly through the canyons. Also I don't mind spanking the occasions BMW, SI, or WRX.

I'll look into tripoint swaybar, thanks for the suggestion. I heard about it from someone else as well.

I thought about getting the resonator delete and tips but I really like the look and sound of UR catback. I think I may just get their axelback and call it good.

Hmm, you need to come to the Local SFV meets at the Target near the Balboa Exit from the 118 on Wednesday nights. We run the local canyon a few times a month.

Sounds like fun. I think that's relativity close to my work (Sherman Oaks) so I maybe able to go afterwards. If you don't mind me asking how modded is your speed?

Well my typical answer is "stock bro." ;)

The real answer is in my profile. I can hold my own against fully bolted and some E-85 bolted and tuned cars. :)

Soooo many people coming in here not wanting to do HPFP internals, because they don't add MOAR POWAH, they want to spend money on things they can point to and say, "Butt Dyno tells me 15 more to the wheels, yo".

Truth is SRIs and TIPS will do nothing for peak HP without a tune for it anyway. Maybe some more down low from faster turbo spooling, but that's it.

AP should always be #1 . Internals #2 . Then do the rest at your leisure if you are just bolting a DD. Don't cut the corners and cross your fingers. It's not worth ZZBing for the sake of what the internals really cost. If you are worried about the work (it's not hard at all if you follow the install posts here), just get the direct swap.

Glad to see OP is doing the right thing.

I don't have much experience with the torque app but I can almost guarantee the refresh rate on it is nowhere near the speed of the AP. just because you see ok numbers doesn't mean that's always the case.


Sent from my iBro 5 using tapatalk, Bro!

I figure most speed owners are poor so they can only afford internals one month and AP the next. So in this case I say internals first since he already has an intake and test pipe already installed. The fuel pump internals was the first thing to go back in after my engine was replaced under warranty. :)

OP, I can either charge you to install the internals or I can teach you how to install them.;)



Sent via stocked out for a while ...

Fack internals. GenPu does not need them. I only got them so I could fit in.

OP dont listen to these guys. They all got together to scare u.

It's not as fast but I did run the car with my laptop plugged in. I use ScanXL pro, it's a professional car scanner that's probably faster than an AP. My pressure stays above 1650.

I know my torque app can keep up because I bought an expensive Bluetooth adapter that allows very fast update times. I know it's about 50x fast then those Bluetooth scanners you buy on ebay so I'm happy with my setup.

Link?

You'll only see a 10% performance upgrade by adding a DP over your TP. Get An AP next if your internals are already on the way. All I had on my first engine was an intake, tip, internals, RMM, and was still in the middle of tuning when I found myself returning to stock and maki g sure my acting chops were in order cause at just 9,400, she was toast. Do it in the right order son! Cause even then you can still ZZB. Plus at WOT, you'll see your car demand over 2000psi from the HPFP at times and you won't get that from stock internals.

I like how you got to be a "Sure Sponsered Driver" without a single one of their parts on your car!
Perhaps you have Sure internals?

Internals will be installed on Monday. AP is also on it's way.

It's not about the money for me. I have enough to do a built motor with a big turbo plus more. It's about how practical all of this is. I don't want to over do it. I could put my money towards other more important things.

Anyway I'm listening to you guys it's important to do it right the first time. You guys obviously have the experience so I'm listening.

I have a questions for some of you pros though. What is the risk on blowing a motor with an AP? I don't want to increase boost whatsoever I'm happy with 15.5psi, will an AP tune decrease my reliability?

Blowing the motor with the AP is not the issue, blowing the motor with an improper (i.e. too aggressive) tune is.

BTW completely stock Speeds have blown as well.

Your "real answer" is hardly in your sig. People that don't know you, wont get it.

In my profile you noob, not my Sig. ;)

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/27/a5u8u7ut.jpg

While RelaxIdon'tmindyour13 is right, people have blown their motors bone stock, that is extremely rare, as is having it happen with an OTS MAP. As is it happening when tuning properly. But all these bolt-ons your equiping won't yield a damn thing except CEL's without an AP. So put them all on, flash a Stage 2 map, and call it a day if you want. But knowing tons more power is a tune away will only let the OTS map satisfy you for so long. If your afraid to have at tuning on your own...well I can't say I blame ya. I was only 1/4 of the way on my original motor with 9,400miles on it when "kapow!". I'll be letting some brighter minds do mine when I can afford the last parts I need. (Donations accepted) :tongue1:

Nice box

So with my current mods do I need a stage 2 map? Does the AP give me boost control for this map? Like I said before I want to stay at stock 15.5 psi. The less aggressive the tune the better.

FYI, I'm not saying this is a good thing but with my current mods I've never thrown a CEL. I've had my SRI installed for 10,000 miles without a single hiccup. The test pipe is relatively new, it has about 1000 miles on it, but also no issues. I maybe just really lucky, who knows. One thing I do no for sure is I take the best car of my car possible. I change my oil every 2500 miles and do all recommended maintenance on schedule.

You don't "need" a stage 2 map, it's just that with your TP & IC, you have the necessary parts for a Stage 2 map. If your not getting any CEL's than your car is running fine. So go ahead and don't use an AP. it's just that you spent all that money on bolt-ons and your not taking advantage of them.

He isn't running a stock map if he's hitting 1780 psi during WOT runs.

Lol who u think led the fuck Cullen movement.

Dude stop regurgitating false information. A lack of a check engine light does not mean his car is running fine. There have been many people who's car have dipped into the 600-700psi range and never threw a cel. Hell some guys have even blown their fucking motors and never thrown a CEL. If a check engine light comes on, the damage is usually done.


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False. Stop posting bullshit. I got fuel cut on a stage 1 ots map stating no mods but have intake tip and fmic on my gen1. Still got it. This is not rocket science that a no cel policy is not right.

Based on what? The stock map commands the same fuel pressure as stage1. I regularly hit between 1650 and 1800 on my OTS, it just drops off one you add more boost.

I was showing this one noob how to make 3rd gear logs with the AP and when we opened up the excel spreadsheet, he was dipping into the 1300's. No cel, no nothing.

The warning lights on our car come on way too late. Hell it could be 3 quarts of oil low or over 220 degrees on the thermostat before a light comes on. :mad:



Sent via stockish Black Mica Pu

So what you're telling me is that I don't need an AP and can keep modding as long as my CEL isn't on?!?! This peice of shit Accessport is going up for sale!!!


Sent from my iBro 5 using tapatalk, Bro!

From what it sounds like I need a tune to protect my engine. I will definitely tune when I get my AP. Until then (like a week) I'll monitor my pressure every time I drive. Sorry for being a noob, but what exactly happens when you lose fuel pressure? What causes the motor to fail?

Ummm no fuel?? Lol you go lean, magic happens, you cry yourself to sleep when you see the repair bill.


Sent from my iBro 5 using tapatalk, Bro!

Stock and Stage1 maps... command 1669 psi

I'm aware. You'll still hit 1780 at certain spots. I hit 1800 up top pretty often actually, not consistently through the log likee with autotechs, but it happens. It only ceased to happen when I went above OTS boost.

Am I the only one that's going to say the first thing the OP needs is a VIP mod? LOL!

OP, based on numerous things you've said, it's clear you don't know much at all about our platform. And that's not an insult--I wouldn't expect you to automatically intuit these things.

Besides the AP and internals (which you definitely should get in ASAP), donate to this community because you'll gain access to a great deal more useful resources. Also, the huge amount of erudition, experience and downright genius (that's not an overstatement) on this forum is absolutely worth it.

Oh, and read, read, read, read, read, read, read, read, read and read some more, especially before you post something else like this thread. The most safe, efficient, and power producing mod path is extremely well-established for our platform. I'm sure if you search, you'll be able to find it (and, no, I'm not referring to one specific thread... this stuff has been talked about literally for years...)

As promised. Installing this tonight after work. Good thing you guys convinced me to buy this when I did, I was able to get them brand new for $300 shipped overnight on eBay. I got them from a guy who didn't want to install them in his Golf R. He has the original receipt with him in case there is a problem with the internals. I'm going to try and do a detailed HD install video if I have time. I'll post it to YouTube and then create a thread for those looking for some guidance on install. I'll let you know how the install goes. Should be pretty straight forward. :headbang:

http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/...429_184745.jpg

PM me if you need help. Do you have a Vice, 18mm deep socket, and stubby 17 & 19mm wrenches? It might be smarter if you came over to my house and did it but I wont be available till 8:00.

Thanks for the offer! I'll let you know if I need help. I do have all the tools required, I pretty much have a full mechanics setup in my garage. The reason is not by personal decision, I had a POS Mustang GT in high school and part way through college with a 351 V8 that would require rebuilds often so I did end up with a rather big tool collection. I've also rebuilt some honda and toyota motors so I know my way around smaller engines as well.

@rustysurfsa; @Redline143 @himurax13; @Dimenus; @jseams; @GODspeed7; @Raider;

Look, I'm sorry for giving misleading info. This is MY FAULT! I read Autotech internals in your list, and assumed you had them in. That's MY bad. I meant your car would be safe "with the explicit understanding that internals were part of your mods" without using an AP. I certainly didn't mean to give you misinformation. All these guys are right. If you start bolting shit on without internals, esp. Stage 2 parts, you will run lean and you will blow up your engine. But even just an intake on GenPu's can cause you to run lean on stock internals. For all those who called me on my previous posts, thank you for steering this kid in the right direction before ZZB.

Is 25 a kid in the Mazdaspeed world? I thought I would at least be considered middle aged in our current demographic.

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, for sure.

Consider internals to be prevention :)

No, the misleading info is that you say to look for a CEL for a problem, and that is not the way to do it.

Don't take it personal:
1) I call everybody kid, it's a Jersey thing/wanting to stay young forever thing
2) I'll be 39 just a few months, so 14 years ago when I was your age, you were 11 and praying for your first look at a titty. So yeah, 25 is a kid. Perspective, I'm sure 59 year olds dream of being 39 again and call us kids.

So yeah kid, have fun and stay young till you die!-"7 Seconds"

Your right, I'm going to shut up now.

I'm in my mid 40's and there are more than a few of us "old farts" around here. lol

I have my Hoveround on order. The guy I'm buying my TMIC off of is 65. All ages are well represented on our forum and many more on our platform.

It's a good thing. Glad to hear a more mature audience is taking such a heavy interest in these vehicles, it will only make the brand better.

I can't stand kids these days and their rap music. :chairshot:

Oh forgot to add. My next "mod" will be to clean my intake valves. I've never done it to this car. With 35,000 miles I'm pretty sure they're disgusting.

Oh forgot to add. My next "mod" will be to clean my intake valves. I've never done it to this car. With 35,000 miles I'm pretty sure they're disgusting.[/QUOTE]

You've got 35,000 miles on a 2012 already? Damn, haven't even hit 10,000 yet on mine, and my new engine only has 600 miles on it. Also, who painted your car for you?

It's a 2010. Don't know where you got 2012 from, I would have liked a 2012 or 13 better but I got this one for a steal (in my opinion) with absolutely no abuse. I met the lady at the stealership who traded it in for a Volvo S60. She was an older lady who used it as a DD. She traded it in because it scared the absolute crap out of her (her words). The car looked absolutely brand new, not even a wrinkle in the leather and she serviced it all the time at Mazda. I think there is no better way for an engine to break in then have a 60 year old lady baby it for 20,000 miles. I considered selling it and buying a 2013 but I just like the color too damn much and I could car less for the in dash nav. The only thing I do like better on the 2013 are the rims. Maybe I'll just fork over the $500 and get them powder coated.

Just saw that your join date on here was Sept. 2012 and assumed. My bad. Sounds like you got a good deal. That S60 is no slouch either, funny way to down grade. So blue was available in 2010? Interesting.

Done. Installed my internals last night. Car started without a hiccup. Everything seems to be working pretty well. My idle is steady at 420psi which is pretty much unchanged from my stock pump. I haven't done any WOT runs yet. I'm going to give the pump 100 miles to let things settle in properly. This waiting is seriously one of the hardest things I've had to do with this car. It's so damn tempting to mash down the gas. I did give it a little bit of throttle this morning when some jackass in a C250 "racecar" tried to cut me off. He looked pretty pissed after he got :owned: at half throttle. My pump hit 1800 psi when I did this so that seems like a good sign that everything is working properly.

FYI, I didn't do the full cleaning of the pump. I just installed the internals and cleaned out the housings with break cleaner. I think that should be fine. I see no reason to take the whole pump apart. The insides that housed the internals were absolutely pristine I just sprayed them as a precaution.

:Banane01:

Did you soak the new internals in fresh motor oil before you reinstalled it?

Did you prime the pump for 10 seconds before starting?

Did not soak them in oil but I did rub oil all over with my finger as per the autotech instructions. I was wondering what the proper way to lubricate them was, so many differing opinions out there. Would that be your recommendation? I can pull them out and lubricate them again if necessary. Having a Makita impart drill makes the whole process a breeze.

I did cycled the key three time before I started. After that the car started up without a problem.

Nah, if its working fine I wouldn't worry. It is important to prime the fuel system for 10 seconds by putting the gas pedal and clutch to the floor for a minimum of 10 seconds before starting the motor. As for lubricating the internals, I dunk them in a cup of motor oil before I reassemble the pump.

Yeah, if your car has been driving fine and you've given it enough of a test drive as it seems like you have, you did the install correctly. Your all set to really get started now. I know what it's like chomping at the bit. I've got another 400 miles to put on my brand new engine before I can get my first oil change on it and get started again. The waiting sucks.

@The Nut

Just out of curiosity, how did you blow your motor?

Factory defect.

Aww sucks. Was it a pain to get replaced? I would imagine they had the car for a few weeks and gave you some POS rental. Nice they gave you a new motor and not some reman. My friend has a Volvo and instead of giving her a new motor they gave her some rebuilt junk.

The whole process was a pain in the ass cause my rear main seal was the first thing to go. That trashed the clutch so first they replaced those without diagnosing what caused them. 2 days layer dipstick flew out, shot oil all over everything again. Nator friend did compression test, took results to my regular dealership, then they replaced engine. Went away on vacation 2 days after dropping it off and it was ready for when I got back.
Mazda doesn't rebuild engines, too labor intensive. They replace.

How hard would you say the internals would be to install for someone with little to no car modding experience? Internals are definitely the next mod I'll be doing to my MS3. Never done anything like this before but from searching around and reading up on install walkthroughs, it doesn't seem too difficult. The problem is I don't have all the tools necessary to make this happen and this is something I really don't want to fuck up. The possibility of ZZB makes me a little nervous, lol.

It's not bad at all. I'm actually going to post the video of my install. I show me taking it off the car doing the basic install of the internals and putting it back on. I did a pretty detailed recording of it for people who have no idea what they're doing. It's not perfect, I missed some parts, but I'll have comments showing what I missed. It's definitely better to have this video then doing it blindly. You should be able to follow it and do a successful install. I'll try and edit it tonight and post here and on a new thread tomorrow.

Tools required

1. 19mm wrench
2. 10mm socket
3. 12mm socket
4. 18mm deep socket
5. E8 reverse torx socket (picked one up at orielly for 3 dollars)
6. standard 3/8 ratchet
7. 1/4 ratchet or attachment for E8 socket
8. brake cleaner (non chlorinated)
9. Clean motor oil
10. Flat Head screwdriver

Optional by highly recommended tools

1. Bench vice (went to by local hardware store when I was buying a tool and saw one for 20 bucks, definitely makes the job easier)
2. Torque wrench (not entirely necessary but it prevents over or under tightening of the internals housing, you can buy one for under 25 dollars)
3. Safety goggles

Thanks Man, I'll keep my eyes peeled for your video. :friday:

(Saw you location) come to the meet tonight, make friends, get help, offer to help others, live happy! 11133 Balboa Blvd, Granada Hills, CA 91344, United States

Damn that's on my way home from work. Wish I could go but I'm busy tonight.

If anyone is interested. I found my next mod (AP is on it's way, it's not that). After an awesome :banana: day in the stock market I've decided to buy a JBR rear sway bar. From what I've read is a very solid piece of engineering. Anyone have any opinions on it. I have not seen an complaints about it, just good reviews. I also read a thread (that I can't find) that compared the strength of each bar and it seems like most have around the same ratings. I'm probably going to install it on the middle setting because I don't want anything too extreme. I know it's kinda pricey but with the amount of money I made today I could care less. The understeer is killing me, I want my car to follow the damn line I put it in.

:yeah:We meet there every Wed. night around 9:00. Come anytime. Also, I know this doesn't help, but in my research, I've only found one other RSB that is made better as it slows for the perfect balance of stiffness for reduction of understeer, and flex for street driving comfort. It is also quite pricey, but none of this matters cause I forget who makes it. I know, I know, poster fail. I'll look around if I find it I'll post a link to it.

Tripoint, cough, cough.;)

Sent via stockish Black Mica Pu

Say is that the target that's off the 118fwy? You guys meet every Wednesday right?
I went to a meet there once last year when I barely bought my car. It was great and wanted to keep coming but that time it wasn't really possible for me. I had just moved out to a new place with my GF and just recently got a promotion at work that required me to come in at 4am!!!!! So it was pretty much impossible for me to keep coming out to meets. That and I was ashamed of being the only guy with a stock MS3 at the meets, lol.
But since then I've got a new schedule at work and I've actually modded my MS3 a bit so I was actually thinking about heading out again soon.
The one time I went to the meet I met @Oliverms3, who was totally cool. It's too bad I took my GF, who was board and wanted to leave right away :cussing:. Not bringing her next time for sure, lulz.
But yeah I'm down to start coming out to the meets :banana:.
Shit, I’d go tonight but can't :banghead:. Unfortunately my best friend is having a birthday get together tonight at a bar by my house called Pat's cocktails on Laurel Cyn and Riverside Dr, or else I'd go see what happening tonight.

Not the one I was thinking of

Well some of us are acutely aware of your research fail.;)

Sent via stockish Black Mica Pu

You've got time to find the name, JBR ran out of the red sway bar.

Interesting the lowest setting is equal to the middle setting of the JBR. Any issues with rattling, clunking or squeaking?

Not if installed properly.

Sent via stockish Black Mica Pu

Well...It's not like I made a big secret about it. So way to point it out "stockish"!

This is how I did it.
AP
SRI
Internals
racepipe
CS TMIC
Freektune.

Version 2 of the Corksport RSB? I like the idea of a one piece solid sway bar.

Well I think the ends are welded on. I know of at least 2 people personally who have had problems with the original version.

No TIP? I know the gains are pretty minimal but there are some real nice looking pieces out there. They make for some very nice under hood bling.

:10:Depending on what your goals are...Get a TIP. The Factory junk piece of plastic is crimped in several places and has half an inch for air to flow through it. Here is my MOD sequence that I did it in:

AP
Internals/SRI/TIP all at once
RMM
SSP/Counterweight/Bushings/Heavy Knob all at once
IC one night
Nator TP the next (tonight actually 5/9/13)
Next is a tune
(Obviously didn't include non performance MODs, all of which were done before anything else. (Got many more of those I'd like to do)
Wheels and Tires are next too

Man i should of done it like you. I went ahead and got the SRI and TIP before internals and the AP. Reason being JBR says it's fine to run their SRI and TIP with out a tune or internals. They where also having a 10% off sale so I jumped on it.

Next mod for sure will be internals and AP for sure.

After that future mods will be RMM, TMIC, TP, SSP/Couterweight, RSB, Stage 2 OTS map.
I'd like to eventually get some coilovers, wheels, tires, PMM, TMM, and a custom tune but that will be probably way later in the future, lol.

For the sake of sales kid, buy shit in whatever order you can get the best deals on. But what order you put them on is another story. If you did all the reading that I'm sure everyone has been pushing you to do, you'd know that people with GenPu's have successfully run intake only with no internals and not had an issue. But you also would have read that our cars are ready for internals upgrades right out of the box and that Mazda would have done better just to have gone with the bigger piston in the first place. In the same countless stickies & guides that say this, you would have read that a lot of people have just thrown an intake on their Gen2 and ran into problems running lean, enough so, that our entire community recommends doing internals before ANYTHING ELSE. Now go read some more and pray you don't ZZB before your internals arrive. (Dude just don't go wild on the gas pedal in the meantime and you "should" be ok.) Yes, I understand that's like asking a 7 yr I'll to put down the ice cream and get back to doing homework. But if he doesn't learn to read, he'll never be able to spell ice cream, or internals, or forged pistons, you get the idea.

Nice list. If you are getting the internals and the AP, why don't you flash a Stage 2 map then? ;)

No TP, No Stage2. @himurax13; here likes to mess with noobs he suspects of not doing their reading. But you need at least a TP (along with all the other Stage 1 stuff before you can flash a S2 map. Extra! Extra! Read all about it!

Quiet you. Noobs need to learn. It is best to just hand them the tools, tell them what to do, then leave. ;)

Forgive him, he's Crasian.

I read a post from Lex at Stratified that you should have a TP to reduce some of the heat and backpressure at the turbo.

Source: top post on that page.
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...38/index4.html

LOL oh I see, sneaky sneaky. :nana:

Yeah reading everything I can about a given mod is a requirement for me to continue modding my MS3. I seriously want to avoid the dreaded ZZB.


Hey I agree and I'll take it. The only way to really learn is from doing.

lol no worries.