He isn't running a stock map if he's hitting 1780 psi during WOT runs.

Lol who u think led the fuck Cullen movement.

Dude stop regurgitating false information. A lack of a check engine light does not mean his car is running fine. There have been many people who's car have dipped into the 600-700psi range and never threw a cel. Hell some guys have even blown their fucking motors and never thrown a CEL. If a check engine light comes on, the damage is usually done.


Sent from my iBro 5 using tapatalk, Bro!

False. Stop posting bullshit. I got fuel cut on a stage 1 ots map stating no mods but have intake tip and fmic on my gen1. Still got it. This is not rocket science that a no cel policy is not right.

Based on what? The stock map commands the same fuel pressure as stage1. I regularly hit between 1650 and 1800 on my OTS, it just drops off one you add more boost.

I was showing this one noob how to make 3rd gear logs with the AP and when we opened up the excel spreadsheet, he was dipping into the 1300's. No cel, no nothing.

The warning lights on our car come on way too late. Hell it could be 3 quarts of oil low or over 220 degrees on the thermostat before a light comes on. :mad:



Sent via stockish Black Mica Pu

So what you're telling me is that I don't need an AP and can keep modding as long as my CEL isn't on?!?! This peice of shit Accessport is going up for sale!!!


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From what it sounds like I need a tune to protect my engine. I will definitely tune when I get my AP. Until then (like a week) I'll monitor my pressure every time I drive. Sorry for being a noob, but what exactly happens when you lose fuel pressure? What causes the motor to fail?

Ummm no fuel?? Lol you go lean, magic happens, you cry yourself to sleep when you see the repair bill.


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Stock and Stage1 maps... command 1669 psi

I'm aware. You'll still hit 1780 at certain spots. I hit 1800 up top pretty often actually, not consistently through the log likee with autotechs, but it happens. It only ceased to happen when I went above OTS boost.

Am I the only one that's going to say the first thing the OP needs is a VIP mod? LOL!

OP, based on numerous things you've said, it's clear you don't know much at all about our platform. And that's not an insult--I wouldn't expect you to automatically intuit these things.

Besides the AP and internals (which you definitely should get in ASAP), donate to this community because you'll gain access to a great deal more useful resources. Also, the huge amount of erudition, experience and downright genius (that's not an overstatement) on this forum is absolutely worth it.

Oh, and read, read, read, read, read, read, read, read, read and read some more, especially before you post something else like this thread. The most safe, efficient, and power producing mod path is extremely well-established for our platform. I'm sure if you search, you'll be able to find it (and, no, I'm not referring to one specific thread... this stuff has been talked about literally for years...)

As promised. Installing this tonight after work. Good thing you guys convinced me to buy this when I did, I was able to get them brand new for $300 shipped overnight on eBay. I got them from a guy who didn't want to install them in his Golf R. He has the original receipt with him in case there is a problem with the internals. I'm going to try and do a detailed HD install video if I have time. I'll post it to YouTube and then create a thread for those looking for some guidance on install. I'll let you know how the install goes. Should be pretty straight forward. :headbang:

http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/...429_184745.jpg

PM me if you need help. Do you have a Vice, 18mm deep socket, and stubby 17 & 19mm wrenches? It might be smarter if you came over to my house and did it but I wont be available till 8:00.

Thanks for the offer! I'll let you know if I need help. I do have all the tools required, I pretty much have a full mechanics setup in my garage. The reason is not by personal decision, I had a POS Mustang GT in high school and part way through college with a 351 V8 that would require rebuilds often so I did end up with a rather big tool collection. I've also rebuilt some honda and toyota motors so I know my way around smaller engines as well.

@rustysurfsa; @Redline143 @himurax13; @Dimenus; @jseams; @GODspeed7; @Raider;

Look, I'm sorry for giving misleading info. This is MY FAULT! I read Autotech internals in your list, and assumed you had them in. That's MY bad. I meant your car would be safe "with the explicit understanding that internals were part of your mods" without using an AP. I certainly didn't mean to give you misinformation. All these guys are right. If you start bolting shit on without internals, esp. Stage 2 parts, you will run lean and you will blow up your engine. But even just an intake on GenPu's can cause you to run lean on stock internals. For all those who called me on my previous posts, thank you for steering this kid in the right direction before ZZB.

Is 25 a kid in the Mazdaspeed world? I thought I would at least be considered middle aged in our current demographic.

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, for sure.

Consider internals to be prevention :)

No, the misleading info is that you say to look for a CEL for a problem, and that is not the way to do it.

Don't take it personal:
1) I call everybody kid, it's a Jersey thing/wanting to stay young forever thing
2) I'll be 39 just a few months, so 14 years ago when I was your age, you were 11 and praying for your first look at a titty. So yeah, 25 is a kid. Perspective, I'm sure 59 year olds dream of being 39 again and call us kids.

So yeah kid, have fun and stay young till you die!-"7 Seconds"

Your right, I'm going to shut up now.

I'm in my mid 40's and there are more than a few of us "old farts" around here. lol

I have my Hoveround on order. The guy I'm buying my TMIC off of is 65. All ages are well represented on our forum and many more on our platform.

It's a good thing. Glad to hear a more mature audience is taking such a heavy interest in these vehicles, it will only make the brand better.

I can't stand kids these days and their rap music. :chairshot:

Oh forgot to add. My next "mod" will be to clean my intake valves. I've never done it to this car. With 35,000 miles I'm pretty sure they're disgusting.

Oh forgot to add. My next "mod" will be to clean my intake valves. I've never done it to this car. With 35,000 miles I'm pretty sure they're disgusting.[/QUOTE]

You've got 35,000 miles on a 2012 already? Damn, haven't even hit 10,000 yet on mine, and my new engine only has 600 miles on it. Also, who painted your car for you?

It's a 2010. Don't know where you got 2012 from, I would have liked a 2012 or 13 better but I got this one for a steal (in my opinion) with absolutely no abuse. I met the lady at the stealership who traded it in for a Volvo S60. She was an older lady who used it as a DD. She traded it in because it scared the absolute crap out of her (her words). The car looked absolutely brand new, not even a wrinkle in the leather and she serviced it all the time at Mazda. I think there is no better way for an engine to break in then have a 60 year old lady baby it for 20,000 miles. I considered selling it and buying a 2013 but I just like the color too damn much and I could car less for the in dash nav. The only thing I do like better on the 2013 are the rims. Maybe I'll just fork over the $500 and get them powder coated.

Just saw that your join date on here was Sept. 2012 and assumed. My bad. Sounds like you got a good deal. That S60 is no slouch either, funny way to down grade. So blue was available in 2010? Interesting.

Done. Installed my internals last night. Car started without a hiccup. Everything seems to be working pretty well. My idle is steady at 420psi which is pretty much unchanged from my stock pump. I haven't done any WOT runs yet. I'm going to give the pump 100 miles to let things settle in properly. This waiting is seriously one of the hardest things I've had to do with this car. It's so damn tempting to mash down the gas. I did give it a little bit of throttle this morning when some jackass in a C250 "racecar" tried to cut me off. He looked pretty pissed after he got :owned: at half throttle. My pump hit 1800 psi when I did this so that seems like a good sign that everything is working properly.

FYI, I didn't do the full cleaning of the pump. I just installed the internals and cleaned out the housings with break cleaner. I think that should be fine. I see no reason to take the whole pump apart. The insides that housed the internals were absolutely pristine I just sprayed them as a precaution.

:Banane01:

Did you soak the new internals in fresh motor oil before you reinstalled it?

Did you prime the pump for 10 seconds before starting?

Did not soak them in oil but I did rub oil all over with my finger as per the autotech instructions. I was wondering what the proper way to lubricate them was, so many differing opinions out there. Would that be your recommendation? I can pull them out and lubricate them again if necessary. Having a Makita impart drill makes the whole process a breeze.

I did cycled the key three time before I started. After that the car started up without a problem.

Nah, if its working fine I wouldn't worry. It is important to prime the fuel system for 10 seconds by putting the gas pedal and clutch to the floor for a minimum of 10 seconds before starting the motor. As for lubricating the internals, I dunk them in a cup of motor oil before I reassemble the pump.

Yeah, if your car has been driving fine and you've given it enough of a test drive as it seems like you have, you did the install correctly. Your all set to really get started now. I know what it's like chomping at the bit. I've got another 400 miles to put on my brand new engine before I can get my first oil change on it and get started again. The waiting sucks.

@The Nut

Just out of curiosity, how did you blow your motor?

Factory defect.

Aww sucks. Was it a pain to get replaced? I would imagine they had the car for a few weeks and gave you some POS rental. Nice they gave you a new motor and not some reman. My friend has a Volvo and instead of giving her a new motor they gave her some rebuilt junk.

The whole process was a pain in the ass cause my rear main seal was the first thing to go. That trashed the clutch so first they replaced those without diagnosing what caused them. 2 days layer dipstick flew out, shot oil all over everything again. Nator friend did compression test, took results to my regular dealership, then they replaced engine. Went away on vacation 2 days after dropping it off and it was ready for when I got back.
Mazda doesn't rebuild engines, too labor intensive. They replace.

How hard would you say the internals would be to install for someone with little to no car modding experience? Internals are definitely the next mod I'll be doing to my MS3. Never done anything like this before but from searching around and reading up on install walkthroughs, it doesn't seem too difficult. The problem is I don't have all the tools necessary to make this happen and this is something I really don't want to fuck up. The possibility of ZZB makes me a little nervous, lol.

It's not bad at all. I'm actually going to post the video of my install. I show me taking it off the car doing the basic install of the internals and putting it back on. I did a pretty detailed recording of it for people who have no idea what they're doing. It's not perfect, I missed some parts, but I'll have comments showing what I missed. It's definitely better to have this video then doing it blindly. You should be able to follow it and do a successful install. I'll try and edit it tonight and post here and on a new thread tomorrow.

Tools required

1. 19mm wrench
2. 10mm socket
3. 12mm socket
4. 18mm deep socket
5. E8 reverse torx socket (picked one up at orielly for 3 dollars)
6. standard 3/8 ratchet
7. 1/4 ratchet or attachment for E8 socket
8. brake cleaner (non chlorinated)
9. Clean motor oil
10. Flat Head screwdriver

Optional by highly recommended tools

1. Bench vice (went to by local hardware store when I was buying a tool and saw one for 20 bucks, definitely makes the job easier)
2. Torque wrench (not entirely necessary but it prevents over or under tightening of the internals housing, you can buy one for under 25 dollars)
3. Safety goggles

Thanks Man, I'll keep my eyes peeled for your video. :friday:

(Saw you location) come to the meet tonight, make friends, get help, offer to help others, live happy! 11133 Balboa Blvd, Granada Hills, CA 91344, United States

Damn that's on my way home from work. Wish I could go but I'm busy tonight.

If anyone is interested. I found my next mod (AP is on it's way, it's not that). After an awesome :banana: day in the stock market I've decided to buy a JBR rear sway bar. From what I've read is a very solid piece of engineering. Anyone have any opinions on it. I have not seen an complaints about it, just good reviews. I also read a thread (that I can't find) that compared the strength of each bar and it seems like most have around the same ratings. I'm probably going to install it on the middle setting because I don't want anything too extreme. I know it's kinda pricey but with the amount of money I made today I could care less. The understeer is killing me, I want my car to follow the damn line I put it in.