:yeah:We meet there every Wed. night around 9:00. Come anytime. Also, I know this doesn't help, but in my research, I've only found one other RSB that is made better as it slows for the perfect balance of stiffness for reduction of understeer, and flex for street driving comfort. It is also quite pricey, but none of this matters cause I forget who makes it. I know, I know, poster fail. I'll look around if I find it I'll post a link to it.

Tripoint, cough, cough.;)

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Say is that the target that's off the 118fwy? You guys meet every Wednesday right?
I went to a meet there once last year when I barely bought my car. It was great and wanted to keep coming but that time it wasn't really possible for me. I had just moved out to a new place with my GF and just recently got a promotion at work that required me to come in at 4am!!!!! So it was pretty much impossible for me to keep coming out to meets. That and I was ashamed of being the only guy with a stock MS3 at the meets, lol.
But since then I've got a new schedule at work and I've actually modded my MS3 a bit so I was actually thinking about heading out again soon.
The one time I went to the meet I met @Oliverms3, who was totally cool. It's too bad I took my GF, who was board and wanted to leave right away :cussing:. Not bringing her next time for sure, lulz.
But yeah I'm down to start coming out to the meets :banana:.
Shit, I’d go tonight but can't :banghead:. Unfortunately my best friend is having a birthday get together tonight at a bar by my house called Pat's cocktails on Laurel Cyn and Riverside Dr, or else I'd go see what happening tonight.

Not the one I was thinking of

Well some of us are acutely aware of your research fail.;)

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You've got time to find the name, JBR ran out of the red sway bar.

Interesting the lowest setting is equal to the middle setting of the JBR. Any issues with rattling, clunking or squeaking?

Not if installed properly.

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Well...It's not like I made a big secret about it. So way to point it out "stockish"!

This is how I did it.
AP
SRI
Internals
racepipe
CS TMIC
Freektune.

Version 2 of the Corksport RSB? I like the idea of a one piece solid sway bar.

Well I think the ends are welded on. I know of at least 2 people personally who have had problems with the original version.

No TIP? I know the gains are pretty minimal but there are some real nice looking pieces out there. They make for some very nice under hood bling.

:10:Depending on what your goals are...Get a TIP. The Factory junk piece of plastic is crimped in several places and has half an inch for air to flow through it. Here is my MOD sequence that I did it in:

AP
Internals/SRI/TIP all at once
RMM
SSP/Counterweight/Bushings/Heavy Knob all at once
IC one night
Nator TP the next (tonight actually 5/9/13)
Next is a tune
(Obviously didn't include non performance MODs, all of which were done before anything else. (Got many more of those I'd like to do)
Wheels and Tires are next too

Man i should of done it like you. I went ahead and got the SRI and TIP before internals and the AP. Reason being JBR says it's fine to run their SRI and TIP with out a tune or internals. They where also having a 10% off sale so I jumped on it.

Next mod for sure will be internals and AP for sure.

After that future mods will be RMM, TMIC, TP, SSP/Couterweight, RSB, Stage 2 OTS map.
I'd like to eventually get some coilovers, wheels, tires, PMM, TMM, and a custom tune but that will be probably way later in the future, lol.

For the sake of sales kid, buy shit in whatever order you can get the best deals on. But what order you put them on is another story. If you did all the reading that I'm sure everyone has been pushing you to do, you'd know that people with GenPu's have successfully run intake only with no internals and not had an issue. But you also would have read that our cars are ready for internals upgrades right out of the box and that Mazda would have done better just to have gone with the bigger piston in the first place. In the same countless stickies & guides that say this, you would have read that a lot of people have just thrown an intake on their Gen2 and ran into problems running lean, enough so, that our entire community recommends doing internals before ANYTHING ELSE. Now go read some more and pray you don't ZZB before your internals arrive. (Dude just don't go wild on the gas pedal in the meantime and you "should" be ok.) Yes, I understand that's like asking a 7 yr I'll to put down the ice cream and get back to doing homework. But if he doesn't learn to read, he'll never be able to spell ice cream, or internals, or forged pistons, you get the idea.

Nice list. If you are getting the internals and the AP, why don't you flash a Stage 2 map then? ;)

No TP, No Stage2. @himurax13; here likes to mess with noobs he suspects of not doing their reading. But you need at least a TP (along with all the other Stage 1 stuff before you can flash a S2 map. Extra! Extra! Read all about it!

Quiet you. Noobs need to learn. It is best to just hand them the tools, tell them what to do, then leave. ;)

Forgive him, he's Crasian.

I read a post from Lex at Stratified that you should have a TP to reduce some of the heat and backpressure at the turbo.

Source: top post on that page.
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...38/index4.html

LOL oh I see, sneaky sneaky. :nana:

Yeah reading everything I can about a given mod is a requirement for me to continue modding my MS3. I seriously want to avoid the dreaded ZZB.


Hey I agree and I'll take it. The only way to really learn is from doing.

lol no worries.

Yeah definitely need to read before slapping stuff on. Unfortunately for me I was impatient and since Jamie at JBR said it was cool to run the SRI without internals I went ahead and did it. Stupid me I know. After that I read a bunch more threads and realized that I could still be sitting on a time bomb :-( So yeah now I'm all in panic mode and ready to install some internals. Do you think it would be best just to stock out for now and re-install everything once I get the internals in?

With no AP to monitor your shit, yeah, that would be safest. You may not/probably wouldn't run into a problem. But if something were to go wrong, you'd be hating life a lot more than you'd be hating the 20 min. It'll take to put the stock box back on. Make sense?

Well I always tell people unless you have an AP and do a few 4th gear WOT logs, there is no way to be sure that the Fuel Pressure is staying above 1600. With any type of modding there is always some inherent risk. It is up to you to decide if you should stock out or not.

It is optimally not the point to be starting at with no experience. But this is not a difficult job. Don't have to jack the car, no heavy lifting, etc.. It just requires precautions. The possibility of ZZB isn't really that high with this one, as if you have an AP, you will know RIGHT away if you did it wrong and can fix it before driving anywhere.

You absolutely need the proper tools. The e8 torx can not be gotten around. Same with a deep 18mm socket. Non-CRC Brake or Contact cleaner is the way to go, some use gasoline, but I think the sprays are safer. Only touch the machined parts with latex gloves on. Get some lint-free cloths too (like the ones for glasses). You work area has to be spic and span as well. Tools cleaned too. You don't want any dirt getting on the machined parts. Oil properly during reassembly too. Another pair of hands helps with getting the screws and the lower steel line lined up when putting the pump back on.

Like I said the HPFP Actual pressure reading on the AP will tell you right away if you assembled it wrong as the pressure will be at like 60 instead of normal.

Just read all the threads. Take pictures of everything as you go along, before disassembling, so you have a reference to go back to.

Ultimately you can always go with the pre-done route. It's 200 dollars out the door for maybe 30 mins worth of work thou. That only requires switching out the pump itself rather than opening anything. Up to you.

Post in your local NATOR chapter forum and maybe someone will be able to help you?

I think Corksport is going to have an option soon. If you go with them they can give tech support over the phone during your install if needed.

EDIT - I think I read you don't have an AP? Don't do it then. You HAVE be able to verify the pump pressure after the install.

Yeah make sense, guess I know what I'm doing this weekend, lol.

I believe I'm going to heir on the side of caution on this. Stocking out tomorrow and driving like granny for the rest of the day.

Thanks for the info man. I will be getting the AP and the internals at the same time so that shouldn't be an issue. Although you do have me thinking about just getting a new pump instead of the internals. Definitely easier sounding but I am a broke ass. :09:

Well I could install it for you and charge you a small fee or I can show you how to do it, since I am in the neighborhood and all. ;)

Buying a new pump is a humungous waste of money and you still have to install the darn thing in the car. :)

Yeah that sounds good. having someone who knows what they're doing watching my back would be great. I'm definitely down for that. Saving money is always good too. :biggthumpup:

Whoa, whoa, whoa. I never said I knew what I was doing, and I never offer gaurantees except for death, taxes, and government corruption. ;)

Okay I'm going to chime in with my experience here, which is probably more than most people because I ran an intake for 10,000 miles without any other modification to the car while monitoring my fuel pressure on a daily basis. I think you will be totally fine running an intake only. Get rid of the TIP. I ran an intake only without any internals or AP for 10,000 miles without a problem in the world. I monitored my pressure on a daily basis and I stayed well above 1650 psi WOT. I've also done some compression testing before I installed my internals and everything was perfect. This could just be my car but I think you will be safe. Please don't hate me for this comment but this is just my experience with this car. I had no problems and did not foresee any problems with my initial setup (intake only). I moved to internals after I got blasted by these guys for not having them installed after i installing a testpipe and tip (only ran this way without internals for 1500 miles, no biggie).

After I installed my internals I noticed my car had a little better throttle response and held pressure a lot better and more smoothly then my previous internals. Now I'm holding pressure at 1780psi WOT in 4th,5th and 6th. I'm also peaking at 1920psi. This is a pretty big improvement over my stock internals so I would recommend you get them as soon as you have the funds. After that resume your modifications schedule normally (AP).

FYI, My install video is coming in the next few days. I've reviewed it's contents and although it's not perfect it's a pretty good (1080p HD :headbang:) guide to doing an install.

Fair enough, lol.

Interesting... still I believe i'll heir on the side of caution until I get my internals. With no way to monitor my fuel pressure, there's no way to know if I'm one of the unlucky ones that has a weak HPFP straight from the factory. For now it's better to be safe than sorry.

That's what i missed, I meant to say if you have no way of monitoring it's better to be safe.

My recommendation for a cheap monitor that works really wells is buy a Bluetooth OBDII adapter on amazon or ebay for a couple bucks, then buy the Torque Pro App in the android or apple app store for 5 dollars. Total send 15 dollars. I compared it with a very expensive professional monitoring program on my laptop and it was essentially the same thing, just a tad slower on the update times.

They do have different adapter you can buy, personally I spent 100 on a high end Bluetooth adapter. I compared it to a 10 dollar ones available on amazon or eBay and it was only slightly slower then my expensive KIWI.

It's better then nothing.

He has no AP yet to monitor his fuel pressure.

Thanks for the info, that's very interesting. I might do this is the internals are on back order or something. (PMing with Edge Autosport right now about internals & AP combo deal) If they can get both the AP and internals to me quickly than I won't need to get this, but if they're on back order than I might just do what you said and the app and adapter.

I have the app and adapter but I am too stoopid to figure it out right now, haha.

For those who are interested I spoke with Jamie and he convinced me to buy his JBR rear sway bar. I'll order that next week when he gets more red bars in stock. I'll try and do a install video even though it's a no brainer.

Grease the bushings and make sure the endlinks are not under load when you install them. I think they have a video for that. Now if you can get some scantily clad hottie to do the How To Videos, that may be worthwhile ...

Haha, well my girlfriend does do YouTube DIY videos. She's not scantily clad but still very attractive and she know about cars. She did a video for HID conversion on my speed one night when we had nothing to do.


So no load when installing good to know. That was probably going to be my first question.

Well I can trade you my cell number for Noodz of said GF.

Just in case you need any info. ;)

Sweet. I'm definitely going with JBR when it's time for a RSB. :biggthumpup:

I second the scantily clad hottie idea. :slaphappy:

Nice! Yu're a lucky man to have a GF that has an interest in cars. Mine doesn't even know how to change her blinker fluid. :439:

:haha:

What I mean by no load is that when you install the endlinks into the swaybar, they should go in straight with no pressure. So you may need to lower the tires onto some wood to simulate it being flat on the ground if that makes any sense.

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