Future Mod List (Internals? suggestions?)

[[R]usty]

I have a 2010 speed 3 w/tech and I was wondering if I should get fuel pump internals. I'm currently running a RMM, SRI, TIP, and Testpipe. Cars runs amazing. I monitor my pressure everyday and it never dips below 1650 WOT. Usually stays between 1680 and 1780. Seems like I have a good fuel pump from the factory. I hear some people dip to 1500 with just and SRI so I feel lucky. Anyway I have a ton of parts I want to buy and I want your guys opinion on what to do next. I'm pretty set on a JBR rear sway bar next. But after that maybe internals then AP.

The only reason I put the testpipe on was because my fuel pump was holding pressure so well. The testpipe only made my car better so i'm sticking with it. I'm pretty sure 1650 is safe from what I've read.

Future acquisitions in order

1. JBR Rear Sway Bar
2. Ultimate Racing Cat-Back
3. Fuel Pump Internals
4. AP
5. Catted Downpipe
6. Slotted rotors
7. Koni Adjustable Shocks

[ANITIX87]

You're begging for a blown motor. Put in Fuel Pump now. Why ignore peace of mind just to save money until later? You're going to need them anyway.

Everybody holds fuel pressure with mods - UNTIL THEY DON'T

TIS

[adrager622]

Just because you got lucky with adding the test pipe doesn't mean it will last forever. Honestly, I would remove the TP until you get Fuel pump internals or run the safe map using the AP until you do. Trust me, your motor will thank you, and so will your wallet.

[mxlplx71]

#3
#4
then everything else

[Dimenus]

Eh, if he has a way to measure his fuel pressure and he's running the stock map, that order isn't terrible. I had a pretty decent stock fuel pump as well and only started seeing pressure drop when I was targeting 17-17.5 psi, which is quite a bit higher than stock.

[adrager622]

Originally Posted by Dimenus Eh, if he has a way to measure his fuel pressure and he's running the stock map, that order isn't terrible. I had a pretty decent stock fuel pump as well and only started seeing pressure drop when I was targeting 17-17.5 psi, which is quite a bit higher than stock.

Ya but the second you start fucking with the exhaust without a fuel pump upgrade, you are begging to get raped. A $350 dollar part to prevent a 4K replacement engine? I mean, come on. Like I said, just because he is lucky now, does not mean it will last.

Also OP, since you do not have an AP yet, what are you using to monitor FP?

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by rustysurfsa I have a 2010 speed 3 w/tech and I was wondering if I should get fuel pump internals. I'm currently running a RMM, SRI, TIP, and Testpipe. Cars runs amazing. I monitor my pressure everyday and it never dips below 1650 WOT. Usually stays between 1680 and 1780. Seems like I have a good fuel pump from the factory. I hear some people dip to 1500 with just and SRI so I feel lucky. Anyway I have a ton of parts I want to buy and I want your guys opinion on what to do next. I'm pretty set on a JBR rear sway bar next. But after that maybe internals then AP. The only reason I put the testpipe on was because my fuel pump was holding pressure so well. The testpipe only made my car better so i'm sticking with it. I'm pretty sure 1650 is safe from what I've read.

I redid your list in order of importance.

Fuel Pump Internals
AP
Catted Downpipe
JBR Rear Sway Bar
Koni Adjustable Shocks (might as well get some Swift Springs as well)
Slotted rotors
Ultimate Racing Cat-Back

[adrager622]

Originally Posted by himurax13 I redid your list in order of importance. Remove TP Fuel Pump Internals AP Re-install TP Catted Downpipe JBR Rear Sway Bar Koni Adjustable Shocks (might as well get some Swift Springs as well) Slotted rotors Ultimate Racing Cat-Back

Fixed to insure the prevention of ZZB.

[Worbit]

Originally Posted by adrager622 Also OP, since you do not have an AP yet, what are you using to monitor FP?

I'm curious about this too...

[adrager622]

Originally Posted by Worbit I'm curious about this too...

Not to get off topic but your avatar is nuts haha.

[T2J]

It seems like there's been a shit ton of these useless mod list threads lately. Inb4 "How did my motor blow with just an sri and tp?"

[Dimenus]

Originally Posted by adrager622 Ya but the second you start fucking with the exhaust without a fuel pump upgrade, you are begging to get raped. A $350 dollar part to prevent a 4K replacement engine?

This isn't the order I would do mods in. I got an AP -> SRI -> internals. The stock map is a load tune, and the car isn't going to let him hit crazy load levels like if he was running an OTS map. IMO if he gets internals before he starts flashing maps he'll be fine.

Most people who do this are flashing maps -> adding TP with no internals = ZZB.

[adrager622]

Originally Posted by Dimenus This isn't the order I would do mods in. I got an AP -> SRI -> internals. The stock map is a load tune, and the car isn't going to let him hit crazy load levels like if he was running an OTS map. IMO if he gets internals before he starts flashing maps he'll be fine.

Oh I know, I'm just saying the order he is going, he is asking for trouble. Honestly, an AP and internals should be the very first mods needed if anyone plans on modifying this car. But the point is not the fact about getting internals before flashing maps. He messed with the exhaust which is asking for trouble on the Gen2 in terms of the FP crapping out. People had their cars take a shit with less than the OP has, and IMO he is playing with fire without running internals, or even an AP at this point. He maybe lucky now, but his luck may and will run out, an not in a good way.

[GODspeed7]

Is a anyone else wondering how the fuck he is monitoring fuel pressure without an AP?


Sent from my iBro 5 using tapatalk, Bro!

[adrager622]

Originally Posted by GODspeed7 Is a anyone else wondering how the fuck he is monitoring fuel pressure without an AP? Sent from my iBro 5 using tapatalk, Bro!

Ya, I asked that question earlier and am very curious still.

[blackms3_71]

Originally Posted by rustysurfsa I have a 2010 speed 3 w/tech and I was wondering if I should get fuel pump internals. I'm currently running a RMM, SRI, TIP, and Testpipe. Cars runs amazing. I monitor my pressure everyday and it never dips below 1650 WOT. Usually stays between 1680 and 1780. Seems like I have a good fuel pump from the factory. I hear some people dip to 1500 with just and SRI so I feel lucky. Anyway I have a ton of parts I want to buy and I want your guys opinion on what to do next. I'm pretty set on a JBR rear sway bar next. But after that maybe internals then AP. The only reason I put the testpipe on was because my fuel pump was holding pressure so well. The testpipe only made my car better so i'm sticking with it. I'm pretty sure 1650 is safe from what I've read. Future acquisitions in order JBR Rear Sway Bar Ultimate Racing Cat-Back Fuel Pump Internals AP Catted Downpipe Slotted rotors Koni Adjustable Shocks

The only thing might be is i wonder what your a/f is starting to look like?

[[R]usty]

Alright you guys probably right. I just submitted my ordered for internals to be safe. Will have them installed by next week.

I monitor my pressure with the torque pro app. Ordered a quality OBDII bluetooth adapter and it works flawlessly. It allows me to log all my car data and even record video with gauges. I highly recommend it for those who do not monitor their vehicle.

Here is my updated list:

1. Internals
2. JBR Rear Sway Bar
3. AP
4. Ultimate Racing Cat-Back
5. Catted Downpipe
6. Slotted rotors
7. Koni Adjustable Shocks

If anyone is wondering I went with autotech.

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by rustysurfsa Alright you guys probably right. I just submitted my ordered for internals to be safe. Will have them installed by next week. I monitor my pressure with the torque pro app. Ordered a quality OBDII bluetooth adapter and it works flawlessly. It allows me to log all my car data and even record video with gauges. I highly recommend it for those who do not monitor their vehicle. Here is my updated list: Internals JBR Rear Sway Bar AP Ultimate Racing Cat-Back Catted Downpipe Slotted rotors Koni Adjustable Shocks If anyone is wondering I went with autotech.

If I had the capability of reaching into my monitor to smack you I would.

Are you using the logging feature to monitor your fuel pressure during 4th gear WOT logs?

I redid your list to help keep from blowing your engine.

The fucking Swaybar and the Catback can wait. The Catback should be last on your list because it does very little for our cars until you are making 300+ HP. At least you were smart enough to ask the right questions.

[gigliotti175]

Originally Posted by GODspeed7 Is a anyone else wondering how the fuck he is monitoring fuel pressure without an AP? Sent from my iBro 5 using tapatalk, Bro!

Didn't say he had it but dashhawk maybe? Idk. Shot in the dark.


Tapa tapa tapatalk

[[R]usty]

Originally Posted by himurax13 If I had the capability of reaching into my monitor to smack you I would. Are you using the logging feature to monitor your fuel pressure during 4th gear WOT logs?

Relax. It's not the end of the word. Yes, I monitor 4th gear WOT and I'm logging. I ran with both my torque pro app and ScanXL Pro on my laptop. They both output the same information. My pressure stays above 1650 the whole time.

Originally Posted by himurax13 I redid your list to help keep from blowing your engine.

I appreciate every suggestion. Thank you so much for your input! I bought the internals based on everyone suggestions and the AP will come very soon I promise.

Originally Posted by himurax13 The fucking Swaybar and the Catback can wait. The Catback should be last on your list because it does very little for our cars until you are making 300+ HP. At least you were smart enough to ask the right questions.

Honestly the order of my mods is preference. I like the way my car runs but I want to get some better sound and a flatter cornering since I drive in the CA canyons everyday. Plus I hate the look of the stock muffler tips.

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by rustysurfsa Honestly the order of my mods is preference. I like the way my car runs but I want to get some better sound and a flatter cornering since I drive in the CA canyons everyday. Plus I hate the look of the stock muffler tips.

What part of California are you in? I would think keeping your motor intact would be a higher priority. Getting an engine replaced under warranty or rebuilding an engine out of poscket are both miserable experiences, I assure you.

I have the Tri Point Swaybar and endlinks and I do like it more than the other availlabe options out there. Tri Point, as a company, can go suck a big fat dick otherwise. Do not ever get any work done by them.

If the stock muffler tips bother you that much you can get a resonator delete and some 3" stainless tips added on from any decent muffler shop. That way you can get the looks and the sound for dirt cheap.

[[R]usty]

Originally Posted by himurax13 What part of California are you in? I would think keeping your motor intact would be a higher priority. Getting an engine replaced under warranty or rebuilding an engine out of poscket are both miserable experiences, I assure you. I have the Tri Point Swaybar and endlinks and I do like it more than the other availlabe options out there. Tri Point, as a company, can go suck a big fat dick otherwise. Do not ever get any work done by them. If the stock muffler tips bother you that much you can get a resonator delete and some 3" stainless tips added on from any decent muffler shop. That way you can get the looks and the sound for dirt cheap.

I'm in Los Angeles. I drive all over the San Fernando Valley, Foothills and Malibu area so handling is a priority for me. My motor seems pretty solid and is handling these mods like a champ. If it comes down to rebuilding or replacing I'm okay with it. I'm not that hard on my motor honestly. I never drag race or go to the track. I just love driving spiritedly through the canyons. Also I don't mind spanking the occasions BMW, SI, or WRX.

I'll look into tripoint swaybar, thanks for the suggestion. I heard about it from someone else as well.

I thought about getting the resonator delete and tips but I really like the look and sound of UR catback. I think I may just get their axelback and call it good.

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by rustysurfsa I'm in Los Angeles. I drive all over the San Fernando Valley, Foothills and Malibu area so handling is a priority for me. My motor seems pretty solid and is handling these mods like a champ. If it comes down to rebuilding or replacing I'm okay with it. I'm not that hard on my motor honestly. I never drag race or go to the track. I just love driving spiritedly through the canyons. Also I don't mind spanking the occasions BMW, SI, or WRX. I'll look into tripoint swaybar, thanks for the suggestion. I heard about it from someone else as well. I thought about getting the resonator delete and tips but I really like the look and sound of UR catback. I think I may just get their axelback and call it good.

Hmm, you need to come to the Local SFV meets at the Target near the Balboa Exit from the 118 on Wednesday nights. We run the local canyon a few times a month.

[[R]usty]

Originally Posted by himurax13 Hmm, you need to come to the Local SFV meets at the Target near the Balboa Exit from the 118 on Wednesday nights. We run the local canyon a few times a month.

Sounds like fun. I think that's relativity close to my work (Sherman Oaks) so I maybe able to go afterwards. If you don't mind me asking how modded is your speed?

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by rustysurfsa Sounds like fun. I think that's relativity close to my work (Sherman Oaks) so I maybe able to go afterwards. If you don't mind me asking how modded is your speed?

Well my typical answer is "stock bro."

The real answer is in my profile. I can hold my own against fully bolted and some E-85 bolted and tuned cars.

[BlackBandit]

Soooo many people coming in here not wanting to do HPFP internals, because they don't add MOAR POWAH, they want to spend money on things they can point to and say, "Butt Dyno tells me 15 more to the wheels, yo".

Truth is SRIs and TIPS will do nothing for peak HP without a tune for it anyway. Maybe some more down low from faster turbo spooling, but that's it.

AP should always be #1 . Internals #2 . Then do the rest at your leisure if you are just bolting a DD. Don't cut the corners and cross your fingers. It's not worth ZZBing for the sake of what the internals really cost. If you are worried about the work (it's not hard at all if you follow the install posts here), just get the direct swap.

Glad to see OP is doing the right thing.

[GODspeed7]

I don't have much experience with the torque app but I can almost guarantee the refresh rate on it is nowhere near the speed of the AP. just because you see ok numbers doesn't mean that's always the case.


Sent from my iBro 5 using tapatalk, Bro!

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by BlackBandit Soooo many people coming in here not wanting to do HPFP internals, because they don't add MOAR POWAH, they want to spend money on things they can point to and say, "Butt Dyno tells me 15 more to the wheels, yo". Truth is SRIs and TIPS will do nothing for peak HP without a tune for it anyway. Maybe some more down low from faster turbo spooling, but that's it. AP should always be #1 . Internals #2 . Then do the rest at your leisure if you are just bolting a DD. Don't cut the corners and cross your

I figure most speed owners are poor so they can only afford internals one month and AP the next. So in this case I say internals first since he already has an intake and test pipe already installed. The fuel pump internals was the first thing to go back in after my engine was replaced under warranty.

OP, I can either charge you to install the internals or I can teach you how to install them.



Sent via stocked out for a while ...

[Voltron]

Fack internals. GenPu does not need them. I only got them so I could fit in.

OP dont listen to these guys. They all got together to scare u.

[[R]usty]

Originally Posted by GODspeed7 I don't have much experience with the torque app but I can almost guarantee the refresh rate on it is nowhere near the speed of the AP. just because you see ok numbers doesn't mean that's always the case. Sent from my iBro 5 using tapatalk, Bro!

It's not as fast but I did run the car with my laptop plugged in. I use ScanXL pro, it's a professional car scanner that's probably faster than an AP. My pressure stays above 1650.

I know my torque app can keep up because I bought an expensive Bluetooth adapter that allows very fast update times. I know it's about 50x fast then those Bluetooth scanners you buy on ebay so I'm happy with my setup.

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by rustysurfsa It's not as fast but I did run the car with my laptop plugged in. I use ScanXL pro, it's a professional car scanner that's probably faster than an AP. My pressure stays above 1650. I know my torque app can keep up because I bought an expensive Bluetooth adapter that allows very fast update times. I know it's about 50x fast then those Bluetooth scanners you buy on ebay so I'm happy with my setup.

Link?

[The Nut]

Originally Posted by rustysurfsa I'm in Los Angeles. I drive all over the San Fernando Valley, Foothills and Malibu area so handling is a priority for me. My motor seems pretty solid and is handling these mods like a champ. If it comes down to rebuilding or replacing I'm okay with it. I'm not that hard on my motor honestly. I never drag race or go to the track. I just love driving spiritedly through the canyons. Also I don't mind spanking the occasions BMW, SI, or WRX. I'll look into tripoint swaybar, thanks for the suggestion. I heard about it from someone else as well. I thought about getting the resonator delete and tips but I really like the look and sound of UR catback. I think I may just get their axelback and call it good.

You'll only see a 10% performance upgrade by adding a DP over your TP. Get An AP next if your internals are already on the way. All I had on my first engine was an intake, tip, internals, RMM, and was still in the middle of tuning when I found myself returning to stock and maki g sure my acting chops were in order cause at just 9,400, she was toast. Do it in the right order son! Cause even then you can still ZZB. Plus at WOT, you'll see your car demand over 2000psi from the HPFP at times and you won't get that from stock internals.

[The Nut]

Originally Posted by voltron Fack internals. GenPu does not need them. I only got them so I could fit in. OP dont listen to these guys. They all got together to scare u.

I like how you got to be a "Sure Sponsered Driver" without a single one of their parts on your car!
Perhaps you have Sure internals?

[[R]usty]

Internals will be installed on Monday. AP is also on it's way.

It's not about the money for me. I have enough to do a built motor with a big turbo plus more. It's about how practical all of this is. I don't want to over do it. I could put my money towards other more important things.

Anyway I'm listening to you guys it's important to do it right the first time. You guys obviously have the experience so I'm listening.

I have a questions for some of you pros though. What is the risk on blowing a motor with an AP? I don't want to increase boost whatsoever I'm happy with 15.5psi, will an AP tune decrease my reliability?

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by rustysurfsa Internals will be installed on Monday. AP is also on it's way. It's not about the money for me. I have enough to do a built motor with a big turbo plus more. It's about how practical all of this is. I don't want to over do it. I could put my money towards other more important things. Anyway I'm listening to you guys it's important to do it right the first time. You guys obviously have the experience so I'm listening. I have a questions for some of you pros though. What is the risk on blowing a motor with an AP? I don't want to increase boost whatsoever I'm happy with 15.5psi, will an AP tune decrease my reliability?

Blowing the motor with the AP is not the issue, blowing the motor with an improper (i.e. too aggressive) tune is.

BTW completely stock Speeds have blown as well.

[The Nut]

Originally Posted by himurax13 Well my typical answer is "stock bro." The real answer is in my profile. I can hold my own against fully bolted and some E-85 bolted and tuned cars.

Your "real answer" is hardly in your sig. People that don't know you, wont get it.

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by The Nut Your "real answer" is hardly in your sig. People that don't know you, wont get it.

In my profile you noob, not my Sig.

[The Nut]

Originally Posted by rustysurfsa Internals will be installed on Monday. AP is also on it's way. It's not about the money for me. I have enough to do a built motor with a big turbo plus more. It's about how practical all of this is. I don't want to over do it. I could put my money towards other more important things. Anyway I'm listening to you guys it's important to do it right the first time. You guys obviously have the experience so I'm listening. I have a questions for some of you pros though. What is the risk on blowing a motor with an AP? I don't want to increase boost whatsoever I'm happy with 15.5psi, will an AP tune decrease my reliability?

While RelaxIdon'tmindyour13 is right, people have blown their motors bone stock, that is extremely rare, as is having it happen with an OTS MAP. As is it happening when tuning properly. But all these bolt-ons your equiping won't yield a damn thing except CEL's without an AP. So put them all on, flash a Stage 2 map, and call it a day if you want. But knowing tons more power is a tune away will only let the OTS map satisfy you for so long. If your afraid to have at tuning on your own...well I can't say I blame ya. I was only 1/4 of the way on my original motor with 9,400miles on it when "kapow!". I'll be letting some brighter minds do mine when I can afford the last parts I need. (Donations accepted)

Originally Posted by himurax13 In my profile you noob, not my Sig.

Nice box

[[R]usty]

So with my current mods do I need a stage 2 map? Does the AP give me boost control for this map? Like I said before I want to stay at stock 15.5 psi. The less aggressive the tune the better.

Originally Posted by The Nut While RelaxIdon'tmindyour13 is right, people have blown their motors bone stock, that is extremely rare, as is having it happen with an OTS MAP. As is it happening when tuning properly. But all these bolt-ons your equiping won't yield a damn thing except CEL's without an AP. So put them all on, flash a Stage 2 map, and call it a day if you want. But knowing tons more power is a tune away will only let the OTS map satisfy you for so long. If your afraid to have at tuning on your own...well I can't say I blame ya. I was only 1/4 of the way on my original motor with 9,400miles on it when "kapow!". I'll be letting some brighter minds do mine when I can afford the last parts I need. (Donations accepted) Nice box

FYI, I'm not saying this is a good thing but with my current mods I've never thrown a CEL. I've had my SRI installed for 10,000 miles without a single hiccup. The test pipe is relatively new, it has about 1000 miles on it, but also no issues. I maybe just really lucky, who knows. One thing I do no for sure is I take the best car of my car possible. I change my oil every 2500 miles and do all recommended maintenance on schedule.

[The Nut]

Originally Posted by rustysurfsa So with my current mods do I need a stage 2 map? Does the AP give me boost control for this map? Like I said before I want to stay at stock 15.5 psi. The less aggressive the tune the better. FYI, I'm not saying this is a good thing but with my current mods I've never thrown a CEL. I've had my SRI installed for 10,000 miles without a single hiccup. The test pipe is relatively new, it has about 1000 miles on it, but also no issues. I maybe just really lucky, who knows. One thing I do no for sure is I take the best car of my car possible. I change my oil every 2500 miles and do all recommended maintenance on schedule.

You don't "need" a stage 2 map, it's just that with your TP & IC, you have the necessary parts for a Stage 2 map. If your not getting any CEL's than your car is running fine. So go ahead and don't use an AP. it's just that you spent all that money on bolt-ons and your not taking advantage of them.