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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm sure there are decent gains to be had with tune only but lets not forget an AP is $600, unless you are factoring in a custom tune which is more $$$. Look I have nothing against the AP, I bought it as one of my first mods along with the intake. Intakes have long been known to be an excellent performers due to the restrictive stock intake on the MS3 platform.
__________________ 2012 Cadilac CTS-V coupe 2014 Corvette Stingray |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Sure we do. Performance+features/$$$ = bang for the buck Intake: 11HP+no features/$175 = low bang for the buck AP: 40HP+many features/$550 = high bang for the buck It's simple math.
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__________________ 2012 Cadilac CTS-V coupe 2014 Corvette Stingray |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Got my AP for well under $600, hell, well under $550. I'd suggest PM'ing a few vendors on the boards. Hint: they like it when you're VIP. But I agree, best bang-for-your-buck mod. AP + HPFP = must have if you mod your speed. Period. Flash while stock and get more performance and better fuel economy, flash for your mods, keep your car running safe when getting anywhere near full bolt-on, economy mode, safe mode, valet mode, launch control, flat shifting, dabble in tuning yourself, use it to tune with the many reputable tuners on here...it goes on and on. You really can't argue best-bang-for-the-buck, it just lets you do wayyy too much compared to anything else you buy that's just going to sit there. Much more versatile than any other mod you can get. It's an amazing device, I was super impressed by the V1 years ago when my buddy bought one for his WRX. The V2 is amazing and when I found out that Cobb makes them for MS3's it made me giddy like a school girl.
__________________ 2012 LSM Non-tech Kensun 6000k HID / SURE 70a RMM \Cobb AP/ Autotech Internals\ Corksport SRI + TIP/ Synchronic BOV Interior: AppRadio 2 + ARLiberator + ScanTool Bluetooth OBDII Reader + Torque Pro = Win. |
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__________________ 2012 mazdaspeed 3, black mica w/ tech package, AFE drop in dry filter, Autotech internals and CS rmm inserts. . |
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![]() | | #46 | ![]() |
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__________________ 2012 Cadilac CTS-V coupe 2014 Corvette Stingray Last edited by Bubba Ho-Tep; 03-22-2012 at 06:45 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost | ||
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| Not Ranked : 0 score No, but the title of the thread isn't "Gain with just an AP OTS map". For most of us, the OTS maps are just a baseline, a place to start. This is really all a matter of opinion. For you, the intake may have been the best HP/$$$ you spent. For many of us, it wasn't. I know my car drove like shit with just an SRI, but once I got a stage1 tune that was designed for my intake, it drove smoother than it did stock.
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No agreement whether the AP is worth it. Just considerably more expensive than an intake which (I previously though) was known to yield more whp.
__________________ 2012 Cadilac CTS-V coupe 2014 Corvette Stingray | |
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__________________ 2012 LSM Non-tech Kensun 6000k HID / SURE 70a RMM \Cobb AP/ Autotech Internals\ Corksport SRI + TIP/ Synchronic BOV Interior: AppRadio 2 + ARLiberator + ScanTool Bluetooth OBDII Reader + Torque Pro = Win. | |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Sounds like they need to re-write the "guide to your mazdaspeed3" |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yup. On it.
__________________ 2012 LSM Non-tech Kensun 6000k HID / SURE 70a RMM \Cobb AP/ Autotech Internals\ Corksport SRI + TIP/ Synchronic BOV Interior: AppRadio 2 + ARLiberator + ScanTool Bluetooth OBDII Reader + Torque Pro = Win. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Those guides are meant as a launching point not a be all and end all. Anytime you increase the air going into the engine the fuel needs to be increased as well. The AP lets you finetune everything that is going on in the engine and it lets you monitor shit as well. It is actually debateable whether you should even get an intake until BT. If I were to do it all over again I would go with this mod path: AP HPFP Internals Motor Mounts all around FMIC GTX3076R with supporting mods (including whale penis)
__________________ 2012 Shelby GT500 - Roush Axleback ~ JLT Oil Separator ~ JLT 123mm intake ~ Ngauge ~ Lund Tuned ~ smaller pulley ~ xpipe (loud as fuck now) 2007 Mazdaspeed6 (SOLD) - COBB SRI ~ Gutted Stock Midpipe ~ HKS BPV ~ JBR RMM ~ AWR PMM ~ AWR TMM ~ Juggernaught Rear Diff Mount ~ Dreadnaught Rear Diff Mount ~ ACT Stage 2 Clutch ~ ITV22s ~ AP(self fucking tuned in a week fuckers) ~ Autotech Internals ~ eBay Downpipe ~ Poke Sub thingy |
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@gitarpik @rfinkle2
__________________ 2012 mazdaspeed 3, black mica w/ tech package, AFE drop in dry filter, Autotech internals and CS rmm inserts. . | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Man @bigriver is making me want to sell my intake. That obnoxious sucking sound gets old sometimes.
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__________________ 2012 mazdaspeed 3, black mica w/ tech package, AFE drop in dry filter, Autotech internals and CS rmm inserts. . | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Right. The thing is, anything else before an AP is just dangerous. I think @Onelovesoccer put it that way, and its true. Hell, I have an entire thread showing how a Cobb SF intake and TIH, along with the Cobb stage 1 OTS 93 octane map, was enough to push (pull?) the fuel pressure not just low but very much dangerously zoom zoom kaboom low (703psi). Search titles for "Agile Automotive Performance" and you will see real data (dyno pulls, picutres, and AP logs) documenting this. There are also several horror stories and at least one member who blew a fist sized hole in the side of the block. Not sure how much more evidence is required for us to safely say that AP should be your first mod.
__________________ 2012 Black Mica MazdaSpeed3 Mods (in order of significance): Cobb AccessPort, Autotech CDFP upgrade (thanks Captain KR for your assisstance), Cobb SF SRI Intake, Ultimate Racing cat and resonator-less test pipe, Cobb Turbo Inlet Hose, Cobb Knob, Cobb 300g shifter weight Tune: My own (based on the v210 and v231 Cobb OTS maps but ramped way up) Street creds: - Fastest known K04/93 MS3/driver with only an AP, CDFP upgrade, intake, and tune | 13.37@106.83mph on stock Dunlops (2.04 sec 60' time, full curb weight, 75*F ambient temp) - Has gone an indicated 146mph on three occasions now. Yes I will help you tune your K04/pump gas car; I have much less experience than the major players but I also charge you $0 and can turn you around quickly. 4 satisfied customers and counting... |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Lol when popo are near I just turn my car off. 500rpm makes them raise their eyebrows at me.
__________________ 2012 Shelby GT500 - Roush Axleback ~ JLT Oil Separator ~ JLT 123mm intake ~ Ngauge ~ Lund Tuned ~ smaller pulley ~ xpipe (loud as fuck now) 2007 Mazdaspeed6 (SOLD) - COBB SRI ~ Gutted Stock Midpipe ~ HKS BPV ~ JBR RMM ~ AWR PMM ~ AWR TMM ~ Juggernaught Rear Diff Mount ~ Dreadnaught Rear Diff Mount ~ ACT Stage 2 Clutch ~ ITV22s ~ AP(self fucking tuned in a week fuckers) ~ Autotech Internals ~ eBay Downpipe ~ Poke Sub thingy |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Haha! Aw man my push button on/off would be great for that! I could roll in neutral with engine off.
__________________ 2012 mazdaspeed 3, black mica w/ tech package, AFE drop in dry filter, Autotech internals and CS rmm inserts. . |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score On an unrelated topic to the original topic of this page. Better to buy FP internals or just buy the whole thing from CP-e for a shit-ton of $$$$. Opinions? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Just buy internals unless you are rich and have no idea how to read directions. Also, stop asking off-topic newbie questions unless you want to start collecting groans.
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__________________ 2012 Cadilac CTS-V coupe 2014 Corvette Stingray | |
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![]() I'm not rich and I can read instructions. I just don't like tinkering with things I'm not to familiar with is all. If it's not hard I'm all for doing it cheaper. Any particular brand better than the other? | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I have a question and this seems to be the best thread to post it on... What experience is there with tuning/being tuned with just an AP + internals? It's been mentioned that Bucker got someone 40+ peak whp on an otherwise stock car, but no other specific experiences. What gains have been seen? (peak gains and drivability/under-curve-area) I'm sure it's a fairly common thing to do for those of us who can't afford everything at once... I'd just like to know what the typical experience is with this. I'm mentioning several of the MSF tuners and I hope they don't mind sharing their experience in an effort to persuade brownies that an AP/internals/tune is in fact the best first power mod. ![]() @atvfreek; @Bucker; @rfinkle2; @phate; @Lex; @RichieRichness;
__________________ | 2012 CWP | Cobb AP + AT Internals | HTP 3" Intake | 91oct + DO WMI (D07, 50/50) + 3gal E85 | UR Test Pipe | cp-e TMIC | JBR Trilogy, OCC, EGR Block, SSB | TBC Bypass | Freektuned - 313/351 - Stock DP |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score With just a tune, you can easily gain 30+ hp, and that is without internals. With internals you can push a little higher boost in the midrange and make additional tq and then carry out the boost as far as you can which will give a lot of area under the curve
__________________ 2010 Speed3-PTE5858 Freek built/Freektuned 510hp420tq 11.321@129.93 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score A local just got a conservative dyno tune for just for drivability on a bone stock car and gained ~20whp and tons of room under the curve. There's more room for more power there, but like I said this was a conservative tune. Add internals and you can do an e85 tune and throw a lot more timing at the car and gain much more power.
__________________ 2012 LSM Mazdaspeed 3 -- sold 06/2015 ![]() Cobb AP -- 3" SRI + TIP -- gutted mid-pipe -- CX Racing FMIC -- JBR 88duro Mount Trilogy -- GrimmSpeed EBCS -- 3 Bar Map Sensor -- Kozmic vented OCC -- Synapse DV -- Magnaflow CBE -- DDM 55w 5000K low beams 4 gallon E85 mix self tune 314/370 Dynojet 2005 Black Mica Mazdaspeed MX-5 ![]() Bone stock so far |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score This is my car vs another MS3 same dyno day same year cars. He had a sri but otherwise stock I have AP sri/tip ots tune with a small timing bump 16.5 psi on 93.
__________________ 2006 CSRT8 CAI, Tune |
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__________________ 07' Speed6 Velocity Red Mica Go Faster: CorkSport SRI/TIP, SU Test Pipe, SU TMIC, Autotech Internals, ITV22's, Cobb AP Anti break stuff: Upper Rear Diff Brace, RMM Appearence: STRI DSD Boost Guage/Blockhead 60mm Guage Pod | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score It's also really nice to have the tuning in place before putting on bolt on parts. For example, when I tune, I leave headroom in the tune and flexibility such that if a person throws on a TMIC the tune will just take advantage of the extra flow capacity.
__________________ We Engineer, and that's better than just tuning! ![]() www.stratifiedauto.com COBB AP and VersaTuner Custom Tuning. Guardian Angel Protection and Boost Control. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Adrian at Cobb told me the stock tune was worth about 19-23 hp and increased boost in to about 16.2 or so, I did make a difference to me, less lag and pulled harder, spins second gear, but he also told me to do internals before I went any further, even before an SRI. Did a bunch of reading here and it sounds like good advice, Cobb guys are pretty knowledgable as well as people here. Read, listen, and learn. Mike |
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__________________ CP-e Atmosphere GTX3076r w1.06 Tial | JMF IM | NATOR D.C. FMIC | JBR Wide Path | Autotech Internals | HKS SSQV2 | Ebay DP | Denso ITV24 | CP-e RDM | AutoExe Strut Tower Bar | Whiteline RSB | Sonic Tuning Coils | DSS Driver Side Axle | JMF OCC BT - 395 awhp 345 awtq @ Moore Automotive 4/12/2014 on 93 octane Stock Turbo - 331 awhp 397 awtq @ Moore Automotive 11/10/2012 on ~e48 12.263 @ 111.75 mph 1.669 60' 11/17/2012 ![]() | |
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__________________ | 2012 CWP | Cobb AP + AT Internals | HTP 3" Intake | 91oct + DO WMI (D07, 50/50) + 3gal E85 | UR Test Pipe | cp-e TMIC | JBR Trilogy, OCC, EGR Block, SSB | TBC Bypass | Freektuned - 313/351 - Stock DP | |
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![]() Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Anna, TX
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__________________ SURE Full3 Aeros - UR DP - Test pipe - Magnaflow catback - RMM - Autotech internals - AP self tuned - 3 Port EBCS |
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