good price?
 

Guys, so I get the price down to $20,600, the out of door price is $22,364. This is a base MS3 2012. What do you guys think???? YES OR NO? Can I do better?

thats dirt cheap

Offer 22 OTD...if not settle for that price. Not bad at all.

not bad at all. what color?

do you need to trade a car for it? what kind of interest rate on the loan? don't lower your guard until you leave with good numbers on EVERYTHING...

It's white, 2012 MS3. They said with my credit score the interest will be no more than 3% with my credit score. We'll see...

What dealer is this?

very good price.. just check your TTL numbers and make sure things are straight as well. Don't take their word on the OTD price.. You might be able to catch something that they might try to pull. Dont let them get you on the back end (finiancing side). If your credit it good then 3% sounds right since there is no special Mazda finiancing for the 12's yet.

Don't wait on it though.. thats an awesome price..

hes canadian since he can haz the white unicorn

Jump on that. That is really cheap, and white is sex on these cars... good find and post pics when you get it!

Actually this is a 2012 model. White is available in the US. No more celestial rainbow blue

i don't think so.. its an 12'..Canada would be much higher in price as well.

OTD price is pretty explicit. it's the last number you should see, with no fees attachable to it. grab an alternative source of financing before you go so that they don't have a way to back you into a corner. otherwise, you're ready to go.

I just emailed him two hours ago to make sure the OTD price he gave me is confirmed. But he hasn't email me back yet... arrgggggg.. I hope he doesn't write back and say no go. Wish me luck.

ask if there are any dealership fees...i almost fell for that, but they had a $999 dealership fee

Dealer fees should be included in the OTD price.

Sometimes state websites will have a registration and tax calulator.. use that to know the exact amount. Dealers will put a rough amount sometimes and tell you that if it is lower, a check will come back to you.. don't believe that hype.. there should also be a tire disposal fee (like $8.50) and maybe a doc fee (depending on the state) ...other than that, you don't need to know the OTD price.. that should be set..you just need to watch out for crap they might pull..

basically, don't buy the extended warranty, and don't let them rip you off with any stupid excuses on the interest rate.

Good price, I got my 2011 for a little bit more than that.

That is a great price for a 12 and White looks sweet in this car. Pull the trigger

So he wrote back and say it's for a 2012 MS3, white, OTD price @ $22,220. No more than 3% on interest. Now, if I walk in on Saturday and if they give me anything different, I'll drive my old ass Celica GTS into the dealer! J/k

ha congrats!

Saturday?? Go get it now before it sells..

Congrats! Good pick up. I got my 11 fully loaded for 22,040.

i got ripped off....

Cmon guys, there is a trade-in involved here (said Celica). No dealership can sell the car for that price:banghead:. I dont care what anyone claims they bought their car for, that is too low.

Since when the hell does US get white?

when you get a 2012 model like stated before

one thing i caution you on for the interest rate...they say its 3%, but they may (will) come back 2 u and say, "well the bank wants to do it for 4.5 or 5 %"...they use that as a ploy to get extra $$ of you for the interest.

My dealership sold me my car for $22809 plus state tax, title, and license. After we made the deal, it got screwey. I was trading in a vehicle. What they did was and always do is manipulate the numbers for the trade for equity purposes. So everything looks different...but it still should add up exactly the same. I found that after their number manipulation things did not add up. I called them out on it and they said no its correct. So I then took my phone calculator and started doing the math. What I found was there was a $300 fee that was tacked on for seat protectant, that was NOT disclosed on any form. They said they sprayed something blah blah. I forced them to remove that fee. I then further found that they were overcharging me on the sales tax by a small percentage...so I made them take that off too. Then I bought the car.

So, if they give you an out the door price, thats great. What You need is a Breakdown of that price PRIOR to any trade in shit coming into play. You need to know exactly what the state sales tax is, what title/registration fee is, and any pertinent documentation fees that apply. Then add it all up and make sure the numbers match...9x out of 10 they will not. Also, unless it is a credit union doing the financing, 9x out of 10 the finance manager/agent will tell you an interest rate, and hold back anywhere from .5% to 2% on your interest rate so that he can make money off the loan. Unless you can get financing from Mazda for a promotion, your best place for financing will almost always be a local credit union.

To one of the post, we never discussed trade in yet. I do agree to others, it just sounds shady to me. So I told him to give me an OTD price and he did calculate the sale tax wrong over the phone. And they're charge me $500 something for tag, title and licence??? Does anyone know how much is it usually for PA?

To be honest, I'm excited, but I also being very skeptical about the dealer that I'm going to tomorrow!

My dealer did something like this to me too. It's hard to know everything about dealerships and they bank on you not knowing and or getting confused about it all. Just take your time to read and calculate everything. They always try to rush you so you don't catch something. Luckily I have a friend who's a finance for a Toyota dealership and he told me exactly what to say and do. He's just a finance guy for a small Toyota dealership but he makes 28k a month. Just to put it in perspective of how much they make off of people like us.

My registration fee was $59.80
My Title app fee was $33.00
My DPS Reg fee was $1.00
Local Fees were $11.50
Tax was $581.81...I had a trade in which lowered tax.

I live in TX

good price... got my '10 for 21,900... with tech... but the sticker was 25something... get it... white is bad ass... I want one lol

You should always go to the stealership and with your own financing approved. You should also not be talking trade in. If you have a good credit score your local bank or credit union will pre-approve you with a good rate. This allows you to talk car price only. I fucking hate it when you walk in and they ask, how much can you spend a month? Good luck!




.

dealership gets lower finance rate through automaker's fianace company... if you finance... just saying, your right... but if they are offering 0%... game on ya know

Well, my skepticism was right! That place is so shady. Here is what went down. Obviously we did the whole internet thing, and of course when come down to the price he wanted to talk on the phone. Sooo, here you go, I went in this morning and asked for Ryan (the internet sale manager), and one of the guys greeted us and turned around and said "Ryan, they're looking for you." Ryan was sitting at the far corner office and yelled, "don't call my name, and have them take a seat." Then I over heard he yelled at this poor guy, "Don't ever do that again". I was like, I smelled shadiness! Long story short, the sale guy gave me the MSRP price and I told him I've been working with Ryan and that's not the price we talked about. So he came back and asked me to open up my email and show him the email. DING DING, duuuhh, they never emailed me any pricing, it was through the phone. I was fucking angry because I knew why he wanted to talk about pricing on the phone, because there won't be any proof about the pricing. All his email was very simple short sentence, so you can't even prove that he gave me a deal. SO I walked out and wanted to just drive my car to the corner office of Ryan, so f'king pissed! Sorry for the rant guys.

Fuck shady dealerships!!!!

I bought my '11 base model for $27k OTD....sadly. Traded in a low mileage 08 CX7 Sport AWD and put $2500 down as well to help out with the negitive equity. I wish I would have thought about it before I pulled the trigger. But I was sold on it right after I test drove it. Whats awesome about Alaska is theres no Sales Tax, but the down fall is dealerships rape us with their mark ups to compensate.

yeah.. price was too good to be true if you think about it.. I got my 2011 20.7K.. at the time Mazda had 1k manufacturer to dealer rebate (not 500 like there is now for the 12's) and I got one of the earlier models that had a 400 lower MSRP.. Even at that price, it was still a looser deal for them..Maybe not with possible bonus but you can't factor that in.

So I wrote a whole email to the GM of the dealership and of course he apologized and asked what's the most I'd pay. Cut to the point, at the end, he said "I looked through Ryan's email and no where he mentioned about pricing. The priced mentioned was what you want....". I'm like, no shiz, like I said earlier, they're well trained not to write the price down on the email. Those fuckers!

My point is, you can't give me the price, that's fine, I understand; business is business. But don't fucking lie to me and tell me to prove it!! arrrggg..

Watch out for Maple Shady NJ Mazda!

Maybe i missed it. Will this be your first new car purchase?

Why do you avoid talking trade-in? How does the dealer use this to screw us over?

Never talk trade in. They will just increase the trade in value to make it sound better. It gets convoluted real quick. You should get financing before you go and use a loan calculater to estimate your payments before you go. You can not think straight once you decide you want it. If the numbers you calculate at home with no pressure don't come out the same when they ask you to sign here walk out. Never trust a stealer to do your math. Remember this figures lie and liers figure.

That sucks.... But the sales tax doesn't go to the dealership it goes to the state so what would they have to compensate for? in fact if they mark it up that high that should give you more negotiation room. just sayin.

That sucks man..at least you didn't cave on their BS!

Well well well. I just got it new last Thursday! OTD $23,850. I brought my own finance in. I thought I got an ok deal, BUT, there is this dealer emailed me today and said, "oh, I can get you an OTD price for $22,500 because Mazda is giving us $1,000 rebate" WTF!!! So I emailed MazdaUSA to see if that's for real since I didn't see any rebates on their website. If this is true, I'm going to be piss because I could of save $1,350 in my pocket. Ouch.

That's the price you paid for not researching enough. That information is out there, you just have to dig for it. As for talking trade, I usually work in 2 stages when purchasing a car. Negotiate price, then negotiate trade. If a dealership asks if I have a trade, I will mention that I have one I am considering trading, but never make any remarks indicating my intention.

I have actually negotiated a price before where the dealer thought they were getting my trade, I played the "I'll go talk to the wife tonight, will you honor this price tomorrow?" game, they said yes, I got it in writing, etc. I proceeded to go home and sell my old car on CL for about 3k more than I knew I would get on trade to a guy the very next morning, just before the dealership opened.

You have to consider on trading, that the dealer is going to play the "tax savings" card to make it seem like you're getting a good deal. Just remind them that tax savings has no bearing on what they are giving you for your car. When I traded on my 3, I ended up getting an extra $2500 over their initial trade offer (I was trading 2 cars), and walked out paying $0.63 in sales tax. Mostly because I pointed out to them repeatedly that tax savings has no bearing on what they are giving me for my trade!