Got an offer from dealership should I take it?

[jeff807]

In the market for a MS3, and I am got a quote from a Norcal dealer, new 2011 MS3 with tech pkg for $23300+fees, the car was their main test car for a while so it has 178mi on it. I know Mazda offer $1500 incentive for 2011 MS3 this month and I also got a quote from another dealer which is 2012 MS3 w/ tech pkg for $24713+fees. Do you guys think i can get it lower on the 2011 model? Thanks for the help in advance.

[Raider]

100% Haggle-Free New Car Price Quotes from Local Dealers - TrueCar

[MammaFreed3]

X + fees leaves a lot up for interpretation when buying cars. I'd get some real numbers and then post them.

$23,300 + fees with car stealerships is like saying, "The car will cost you $23,300 + money"

[jeff807]

I thought the +fees is for tax and license? Or there is something else?

[flawedchemical]

I paid 22200 for my 2011 out the door.

[ahfunaki]

Originally Posted by jeff807 I thought the +fees is for tax and license? Or there is something else?

Generally speaking it is. But if the dealer is shady they can throw other stuff in there too...

[jack_hammer]

Until you know what all is included in "fees" then you have no idea what they're trying to charge you

Sent from my LG-MS690 using Tapatalk

[cesaros]

"Main test car" means it was molested for those first 178miles probably. I know the dealer I bought from let me roast the "test-drive" car.

You can get a brand new one cheaper than that....with 178mi, you should only pay the used price.

[Jarods7920]

Originally Posted by cesaros "Main test car" means it was molested for those first 178miles probably. I know the dealer I bought from let me roast the "test-drive" car. You can get a brand new one cheaper than that....with 178mi, you should only pay the used price.

Not always a bad thing. But i would see if i can work it lower. Never hurts to try. Your best bet is buying when you dont need it and walking out on them when they wont work with you.

[cesaros]

Originally Posted by Jarods7920 . Your best bet is buying when you dont need it and walking out on them when they wont work with you.

best advice. hands down.

[jeff807]

Thanks for the advice guys, I wanted to get the 2011 since it is celesital blue but i figure that 178mi is high for a turbo car. Could I possibly go any lower on the 2012 one and what can i use to talk the price down despite the $750 incentive on the 2012 model. I am still waiting for other dealerships to send me their quotes so I'll ask them to give me the OTD price.

[cesaros]

Some guys on here have walked away with an MS3 only costing 22-23k OTD

are you trading somthing in? if you are, then you could always see if they will give you more for the trade.

[intotheice]

You leasing or financing?
What month was the 2011 car manufactured in?

[jeff807]

I dont have a trade-in. I hope i can get a decent deal like many people on this forum.
As what i read from another thread, many people think that something around $24500+taxes would consider a great deal for MS3 with tech pkg, if people are getting them 22-23k otd, that means they buying the car for about 20k or 21k, i wonder how they got the deal.

I am financing it since Mazda does not have any special on Mazdaspeed3.
I didnt ask the dealer too much detail since that car is 3xx miles away and I wouldnt consider it if i know that car has 176mi on odm at first. I dont see there is any possibility that another new celestial blue MS3 will appear in the market.

[intotheice]

if there is that many miles on the 2011 model, then that car is classified as a used car and also it was a demo. If you are getting it, I think they are going to dealer trade it so it will add another 3xx miles onto the car before delivery. Then they are gonna perform PDI which adds a couple more miles on the car. I think you could bargain with the dealer and lower the price by 1-2k

[uncorked11]

The key is being able to walk away at any time, and being a pain in the ass worked for me, I think they said fuck it and sold to me for 22,500 + tax and title. I was also there at 9 at night.

[jeff807]

Originally Posted by intotheice if there is that many miles on the 2011 model, then that car is classified as a used car and also it was a demo. If you are getting it, I think they are going to dealer trade it so it will add another 3xx miles onto the car before delivery. Then they are gonna perform PDI which adds a couple more miles on the car. I think you could bargain with the dealer and lower the price by 1-2k

I will actually go there to get the car if I am gonna buy it, but the biggest concern I have now is how it was driven during that 176 miles, and since MS3 is a turbo car I figure it might not be a good bet and something might break down in the future.

[thomas_cory2000]

I use to be in sales, every and I mean EVERY car dealer is looking for a way to screw you and make you pay the most possible they can.

A couple of tips I'd like to share:

When you speak to the dealer on the phone or in person, act as if thou you dont need the car - the minute u show any enthusiasm toward the car, they will try to suck you in!

When you go look at the car, find anything I mean ANYTHING wrong you can with the car; blemish's in the paint, small tears or scratch's in the leather or plastic, scruff's on the wheels etc.

Whatever they offer you, give them an unreasonable offer. If they say 23,500. Counter it with 22,000. They wont do it, they'll give u some bogus answer like " my manger wont let me sell it for that" etc. Haggle with them about the price.

When it comes to the interest rate, they will lie to you most likely. They say the bank is going to do it for 6.5%, when in reality the bank is going to give you the loan for 5.8 or 6.5%. They will try to profit from that as well.

Lastly, tell them your going to take it to another shop to get the vehicle inspected bec you dont know how it was driven prior to you, they wont like that at all - but i think it's very important you do. IF they give u shit, tell then it's $23,xxx of your life you pissing away and you want to make sure your spending it wisely!

All I'm saying is if you want to save some $$$$$$, take into some serious consideration everything you just read!

That's just my .02 thou

[Atlanta]

Originally Posted by jeff807 I will actually go there to get the car if I am gonna buy it, but the biggest concern I have now is how it was driven during that 176 miles, and since MS3 is a turbo car I figure it might not be a good bet and something might break down in the future.

I wouldn't be concerned about that at all! We all Beat the piss out of our cars regularly and they last a hundred thousand miles.

Sent from TapaDatAss

[Jarods7920]

Another piece of advice is if you can secure your own financing before you walk in the door then that is another step in the right direction to for you. Then your negotiating power just went more in your favor. Sometimes dealerships will find you financing that is say x interest rate but really it is z+y=x intertest rate. Z being what the bank is charging and Y being the dealer ships adjustment to pad their pocket some.

[dgus429]

The dealership can do better, just have to play hardball with them. I got my 2010 brand new for 23000 out the door and got a case of steaks( actually werent bad tasting) and a weber grill

[intotheice]

Originally Posted by jeff807 I will actually go there to get the car if I am gonna buy it, but the biggest concern I have now is how it was driven during that 176 miles, and since MS3 is a turbo car I figure it might not be a good bet and something might break down in the future.

I'm pretty sure almost all the "new" cars have been ripped hard on the road by those lot attendants especially the top of the line cars. I guess if its just that 1k+ difference between 2011 and 2012, I would suggest you to take the 2012 because its newer and I think the 2012 interior is much nicer than the 2011. The color scheme just flows smoother in the 2012. You also get the BSM if you get the 2012.

[Whiteboy]

The best advice when knowing what car you want and the general ball park cost is to get a pre-approved loan from a financial institute with the price you want to pay for the car. When you do this, the dealership has no control over you.

I walked into the Mazda dealership here in Cali back in 09 and told the dude to give it to me 23k out the door and here is the check. He came back and said, deal! The car was priced at $26,500. You can get a deal but you have to have the leverage. GL!

[jack_hammer]

you guys are getting out of the conversation of whether or not that is a good deal for his car. this is more about tips for buying any car. that's why i said he needed to know what the "+fees" meant.

when buying any car, you need to establish any and all "additional" expenses. how much is the title? how much is the tax? what kind of BS dealership fee do they want to add?

once you know the cost of that stuff, add the price of the vehicle, and then you can understand how much you're looking at total to pay. (and if it is a good deal...)

[galens47]

I test drove a pu when I was shopping for mine, it had a really fucked clutch with uber low miles. Be careful

Cheers,

G

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[jeff807]

Thanks for the suggestions guys, I really appreciate for the helps.
Right now the best deal I got is a 2012 with tech pkg for $24250 and the OTD for $26800(yes OTD price)
I searche abit on the forum and compare to many other members paid for their cars I figure this is a good deal(IMO), what do you guys think?

A quick question is that since this would be my first manual car, just wondering if there is anything I need becareful with this manual transmission?(for example, like the civic si's third gear issue etc.,)

[ricknm]

Just ask to see invoice of the car. You will be very suprised to see that the mark-up in Mazdas is very low. There is probably about a grand or so in mark-up. Our dealer will often go invoice right off the bat + incentives. Regardless of what alot of people here are saying to you, not all car salesmen are in it to screw you. TRUST ME. Selling a car at a loser deal will still pay them something. Be it just $75. $75 is better then $0. And when you walk into a dealer bitching and hollering about the price and this scratch and that dent you want more for your trade and blah blah blah, alot of dealers will not want to bother with you. Yes, they want you to buy the car, but being a big pain in the ass is not that good for you either. Then it will give them more motivation to rip you off. Take all of this info from everyone for a grain of salt. Some of its good, but most of it is stupid. Good luck though! you wont be disapointed. MSRP on a 2012 w/ tech is $26,900. Id say do it. Remember, mark up on Mazdas SUCK. It is a good deal.

[23109VC]

when you say someone here got a 2010 / 2011 MS3 for $23k OTD - that was truly "out the door"... the price of a NEW car, + all fees AND sales tax??

here in CA we have avg tax rate almost 8%...

Is it reasonable to get a 2011 or 2012 MS3 "out the door" for $24-26k?

that is about exactly where I'd be comfortable buying at...

[Bosox]

I am in Nor Cal. What dealership are you looking at? And sales tax is not close to 8%, it is 8.75%. Going Turbo for your first manual? I had an Si and had the 3rd gear issue. This tyranny is not as smooth as the Si, but also doesn't have the 3rd gear issue.

[VRM_MS3]

Originally Posted by 23109VC when you say someone here got a 2010 / 2011 MS3 for $23k OTD - that was truly "out the door"... the price of a NEW car, + all fees AND sales tax?? here in CA we have avg tax rate almost 8%... Is it reasonable to get a 2011 or 2012 MS3 "out the door" for $24-26k? that is about exactly where I'd be comfortable buying at...

i emailed a few dealers around my area asking for an otd price. i got mine for $19,xxx + fees = $22,700 OTD. i think buying at the end of the month also help.

[Sacrilicious]

New Cars, Used Cars, Car Reviews and Pricing - Edmunds.com

find the TMV and use that as a point of comparison. 26k OTD doesn't sound like an outright ripoff, but it's also probably not nearly as good as it can get for you. keep trying...and be ready to try again during the last few days of the month. as others have said, the most important thing is: be ready to walk away if you don't get a good deal.

[bertrand_CX_7]

You said Demo Car? WOT by Test Drives with cold engine?

I'll Pass or get a newer one with 8-16 miles a plus cheaper than your current offer.

Good Luck man!

[327whp]

You can count on that 11 has been run the shit out of so I would pass on that and have them lower the price on the 12.

[Celestspeed3]

Wow, a decent deal here is like $32,000 out the door. Fuck me.

[Boatcop1]

Those sound like some great deals to me. I brought home a 12 yesterday
(white pearl w/tech) and paid $25.5. Which is pretty much what TrueCar said is a good deal. Regardless I'm very happy with this little car.

[darko]

Greetings. Longtime lurker here. First NOOB brownie post..

I was about to pull the trigger on a Red 2010 with 23500 miles this week, but this thread has made me think twice. They wanted $19500, which seemed reasonable. But then it was another grand to make it a Certified Used car. After fees, tax, title, etc it was $23000 OTD, which seems pretty high.....

[Boatcop1]

Originally Posted by darko Greetings. Longtime lurker here. First NOOB brownie post.. I was about to pull the trigger on a Red 2010 with 23500 miles this week, but this thread has made me think twice. They wanted $19500, which seemed reasonable. But then it was another grand to make it a Certified Used car. After fees, tax, title, etc it was $23000 OTD, which seems pretty high.....

I almost purchased a used 08 for 15,500 with 60k miles on it. I just decided new was a better decision. One thing I noticed doing research is that these cars hold their resale value very well.

[bertrand_CX_7]

Very true Sir.

Originally Posted by Boatcop1 I almost purchased a used 08 for 15,500 with 60k miles on it. I just decided new was a better decision. One thing I noticed doing research is that these cars hold their resale value very well.

Hey OP you give me 20K and my 2010 genpu with 8000 miles is yours )-

[pcvang]

i paid 23,800 + tax and license for my 11' with tech (april 2011). otd prices is not an good comparison. my otd was over 27k. because tax here is 9.5%. some states dont even have tax, such as Oregon. so of course someone from there is not gonna be paying as much otd. also license/document fees differ too. I had them explain and itemize every amount of money. car price, tax, license/regristration. I also had different dealers outbidding each other. And also for any incentives you might qualify for or mentioned about, make sure it is deducted. it was mentioned in negotiation but when the numbers were calculated, it did not add up. tell them to give you a minute with numbers. look over it and make sure it looks right. with that said, i think you can get a better deal on the 11' but i dont think much more for the 12' too early in the year. if your planning on keeping warranty then theres nothing to really worry about with the 11'

[Lex]

Originally Posted by Celestspeed3 Wow, a decent deal here is like $32,000 out the door. Fuck me.

Back when I bought mine in 08 - in Canada, it was 32k before tax with 0% financing. And I bargained with many dealers. It was just low volume and they didn't bother going down too much.