HELP!!
 

I hope to god someone else has experienced this same problem with their speed3. I have a 2011 mazdaspeed 3 with tech package. I took it to auto cross a few weeks ago. In the middle of the day, in the middle of a run, my car started cutting out like as if it were running out of gas. That's the closest way I can explain what it felt like. I drove home with no problems and even to work and back a couple days with no problems. Out of nowhere, it did it again, this time while I was driving through an intersection. So I took it to the shop and they said the only thing they could find was the throttle body or something (sorry I'm engine illiterate :/ ), was dirty so they cleaned it out. It ran fine a few days after, but today it did it again :( It doesn't do it often enough for me to replicate the problem on-demand for the service department. But, this is what I've noticed: it only does it in 2nd gear and only when I'm turning left. Any help or ideas are appreciated. Only things done to the car are, short intake/turbo inlet pipe, atmosphere blow off valve, and muffler delete. Thank you so much in advance for any help provided!
Josh
702-343-3576
Texas

You are begging for dick pics arent you...Josh (maybe from Texas) with a Vegas area code (702-343-3576).

Do you have an accessport, or any method of data logging? Logs will be what everyone asks for.

if you are truly running a blow-off valve without tune/Guardian Angel then that may be at least part of the problem...

No jsmith, no dick pics lol. I'm stationed in Texas. Never changed my cell when I left my base in Vegas. No I don't have an access port or anything yet. I will buy one next week when I get my car money lol. I have however, since putting the blowoff valve on it, been getting an engine light when I run it really hard. After 3 engine restarts, the light turns off. Autozone plugged in the code thing and it read P0101. The cutting out thing never happened until auto cross. I've been driving the car the way it is, with the current mods, for a year without any problems. Now since auto cross, it's cutting out like it's not getting fuel, only in second gear and only turning left :/

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Well...you answered (at least partially) your own question. Research the difference between a BOV and BPV and why you shouldn't be running a BOV without a tune (or at all in my opinion). Hope you didn't do anything permanent by auto-xing it, but you won't know until you get your first problem sorted. Good luck.

Stop being a ricer that needs attention. No one cares about the "woosh" sound every time you shift. Whatever BOV/BPV you get needs to be run in recirc.

All of this could have been answered with a simple search here.

Geez so sensitive... That time?

Any direct injected engine will produce a bit more soot than a port injected just because. This in combination with an EGR system will return a lot of crap back into the engine and that soot will cake everywhere.
When adding a BOV instead of a BPV/DV the soot production will be probably double when driving in city traffic, especially if granny shifting (long gear shifts, taking more than 2 seconds instead of around 1).

Now, that soot likes to stick on everything: intake valves (thank you EGR!) piston crown, piston rings and ring lands. Over time it will partially clog the piston rings and because cylinders 3 and then 2 run a bit hotter than the rest that soot tends to cook on the rings and ring lands along with some oil after you shut down a hot engine.

Then you autoX or track it, which puts more heat into the pistons and cylinders, while some of them already have lower cooling and lubrication because of the soot deposits and cooked oil.

So the perfect recipe to cracked ring lands and hurt motors is normal/slow driving accompanied by a BOV instead of a BPV and a stock tune. the problem in your case is that the motor inside probably looks like it has twice the mileage it actually has, thanks to a faulty intake setup (BOV).
So I just hope the stumbling you felt at the track wasn't caused by the oil not reaching where it should or by the cyl #3 (and even #2 ) managing to expand the piston rings unequally into the cylinder walls.

Also check the oil level and let us know where it is. What oil are you using, btw?

P0101 has to do with the MAF sensor reading out-of-range. Exactly what intake/TIP are you running?

That's the most helpful and knowledgeable information I've ever been given about my car. Thank you so much! This will definitely help with my decisions on what to do to keep it running for the next 2 years while I freeway commute every day at 80mph the whole way for an hour and a half one way. Do you think it would be a good idea to open the engine and check the Rings? Or if that's even possible? I run synthetic oil. So, I should put the stock bpv back on it and loose the "ricer attention sound" as he put it? Lol. Again, thank you!

I found your next problem.

So until you tune for the BPV I'd say that if your current BOV doesn't have an option to reconfigure to full recirculation (like some sort of a flange plus the dump tube) it's safer to return to the factory BPV.

I don't think it worth opening the engine unless you have a real problem with real symptoms such as blue smoke, high oil consumption, and so on. At the next service you may do a compression test just to be sure but other than that, without a visible and serious symptom I would not touch the engine itself, only the surrounding gear or just make sure they're all in mint condition (intake, cam driven fuel pump, EGR, PCV, and so on) and touch the tune if you don't have one because the hysterical factory tune will get you nowhere.

What synthetic oil are you using? Not any synthetic oil is good for our engines... you should look into using an ACEA A3/B4 - A5/B5 oil with a high detergent content and a viscosity of 0-5W 40-50 - depending on the climate of the area you mostly drive the car (in Vegas you'll be fine with a 5w40 or 0w40 during winter, in TX use 5w40 all year). True (ester) synthetic oils such as Redline, Amsoil, Renewal Lubricants, some Motul oils, and so on, or full synthetic oils such as Motul, Shell/Penzoil Ultra, Rotella and so on re good choices. Do not leave the oil choice for the dealer or whoever is doing your oil changes because that will not go well.

Hey bud you need to reinstall your stock bpv. I, too, really wanted wooshy noises one time and knew that my stock bpv was leaking under boost so I got another one and ran it vta for a time with the guardian angel. I experienced exactly what you're describing whilst turning in 2nd gear. As soon as I went back to recirc, the problem was gone.

Holy $hit! You had the exact same problem and all it was, was the bov?? Hells yes! I'm going to put the stock one on tomorrow! Is there a "best" or "recommend" aftermarket bpv that's good for our speed 3? Thank you thank you thank you! [emoji2]

Ok I'm going to get a compression test done ASAP and put my stock bpv on. Also going to get an access port and tune it. I'm also going to look into my oil as well! Thank you so much for your help!! [emoji2]

@CrazyBrazy; yeah it was weird. Only in 2nd gear turning left. I just want to reiterate, you MUST recirculate the bpv back into the intake. As far as aftermarkets, there really isn't one that works better than stock especially on the k04. So stick with stock.

If you really want the woosh without the usually bov problems, try getting the GFB Repons, you won't have that issue and with a upgraded trumpet on, it can be quite loud.

sent from my Nexus 6P

I've got the CorkSport BPV on my genwon; I know it's overkill for my setup but it does seem to have a quicker response, and is a little bit louder, than the stock BPV. If you're really looking to run something aftermarket, it's one to consider.

FWIW, my buddy's Mazdaspeed Miata came with a GFB valve installed by the previous owner. I forget which one it is, exactly, but it's a sealed BPV (no trumpet whatsoever) yet is LOUD AS HELL even at the 8ish PSI that his car runs. Thing shocks me with the amount of noise it makes; I would have sworn it's VTA if I didn't know what it looks like. Then again, maybe there's just something wrong with it, haha.

Thank you so much! I'll check it out!

Heck yeah! Thank you so much!

You don't need an aftermarket BPV unless you're running significantly more boost than stock. Start saving for an AP.