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 Old 07-26-2017, 08:49 PM   #1
 
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Default HELP! Bleeding brakes pedal won't return

So Im bleeding the valve on the slave cylinder and everything is going fine until about the 4th cycle, pump the clutch about 15 times, set a bar to hold it down, go under the car, open the valve and some air and fluid spurt out, I go back in the car and I'm pumping and pumping and no pressure is building. Tank is full. Now here's the weird part, I checked the tank through all 4 cycles/bleeds, and the level never changed. I even bled the front brakes and the tank level didn't change AT ALL, not even a millimeter. About a fluid ounce came out when I was bleeding the clutch and a little less than that when I did the brakes. Everything was so normal, after the first couple cycles the pedal was very loose but with 15 pumps the pedal was bacl to normal height and pressure. The 4th cycle, boom dead pedal on the floor. Why is my clutch pedal loose floppy on the floor help!
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 Old 07-26-2017, 09:07 PM   #2
 
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The tank needs to be OVERFILLED. It is fucking annoying as fuck. Keep over filling the tank and pumping. Do 2 cycles and overfill. Then repeat till satisfied.
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 Old 07-26-2017, 09:46 PM   #3
 
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Oh my god thankyou so much for not "search more" bashing me and the quick reply! I was filling to the max fill line!
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 Old 07-26-2017, 09:51 PM   #4
 
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So still nothing. Filled tank to literally spilling out, blew on it really hard using the pressure of my lungs to make sure it reached the whole reservoir. With the cap closed tightly and the bleeder nipple closed tightly pumped the clutch about 60 times and waited, another 60 times and still limp as can be, no pressure. I know this is a symptom of I bleed too much out of the slave, so the line in between the master and the slave is empty with air in it. But how the hell do you the air out from the slave valve and have the master puck up more fluid from the reservoir
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 Old 07-26-2017, 10:45 PM   #5
 
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Try pushing the slave cylinder piston back in a bit. Sometimes air gets trapped under the master piston and it won't bleed for shit. Actuating the slave (rather than the master) will push these bubbles up into the reservoir and allow you to bleed normally. This may take 2 or 3 cycles to get out as much air as you can before bleeding in the traditional method.

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 Old 07-27-2017, 05:30 AM   #6
 
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bleed with the cap off the reservoir. you need to alleviate the vacuum pressure created by a tight seal. Also, have a friend help you pump the brakes and clutch...doing it yourself without a pressure bleeder is nearly impossible.
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 Old 07-27-2017, 11:09 PM   #7
 
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Really?! Take the cap off when you bleed? So cap off, bleed with a friend pumping like any other Car? And where does actuating the slave piston by hand come into play, do you work it with the bleeder open or closed? Any links to step by step DIY? Clutch is still fucked
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 Old 07-27-2017, 11:10 PM   #8
 
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Yes, take the cap off during bleeding. As for actuating the slave, do it with the bleeder closed. You'd be amazed how much air will bubble up into the reservoir

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CorkSport 3.5" MAF & TIP | CP-E FMIC | Synapse BPV | CorkSport EBCS (Interrupt) | Bosch 3 bar MAP | CorkSport HPFP Internals | CP-E Catted Downpipe | CP-E Triton 3" CBE | JBR Stage 2 OCC | Kozmic Primary EGR Delete | JBR Secondary EGR delete | NGK 6510 | TB coolant Bypass | JBR IM & TB Gaskets | Damond RMM, PMM, & TMM | JBR light shift weight | TWM Full Replacement Shifter | Cobb AccessPort V3 | FreekTune

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 Old 07-28-2017, 09:17 AM   #9
 
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you started 2 threads on this. Mods please close one of these.
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