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| Not Ranked : 0 score The tank needs to be OVERFILLED. It is fucking annoying as fuck. Keep over filling the tank and pumping. Do 2 cycles and overfill. Then repeat till satisfied.
__________________ 2007 TR MazdaSpeed3:Autotech FP inernals, CorkSport Turbo, TR8 Front Mount w/CX piping, JBR 3" intake, COBB EBCS, Cobb AP, Toyota Injector Seals, FR stud mod, Fidanza flywheel/LUK clutch, Forge BPV v2, cp-e xFlex stage 2 RMM, Wiseco .20 Pistons/Manley Rods/BSD, Dual DM catch cans, Koni Yellows/H&R springs, FD wheels, eBay downpipe, stock CBE 2005 Mazda 3 SP23: mods include rusty quarter panels and grinding 3rd gear. It does have a fusion motor, so I guess that's a mod too. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Oh my god thankyou so much for not "search more" bashing me and the quick reply! I was filling to the max fill line! |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score So still nothing. Filled tank to literally spilling out, blew on it really hard using the pressure of my lungs to make sure it reached the whole reservoir. With the cap closed tightly and the bleeder nipple closed tightly pumped the clutch about 60 times and waited, another 60 times and still limp as can be, no pressure. I know this is a symptom of I bleed too much out of the slave, so the line in between the master and the slave is empty with air in it. But how the hell do you the air out from the slave valve and have the master puck up more fluid from the reservoir |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Try pushing the slave cylinder piston back in a bit. Sometimes air gets trapped under the master piston and it won't bleed for shit. Actuating the slave (rather than the master) will push these bubbles up into the reservoir and allow you to bleed normally. This may take 2 or 3 cycles to get out as much air as you can before bleeding in the traditional method. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
__________________ 2011 Mazdaspeed3 non-tech package Drivetrain CorkSport 3.5" MAF & TIP | CP-E FMIC | Synapse BPV | CorkSport EBCS (Interrupt) | Bosch 3 bar MAP | CorkSport HPFP Internals | CP-E Catted Downpipe | CP-E Triton 3" CBE | JBR Stage 2 OCC | Kozmic Primary EGR Delete | JBR Secondary EGR delete | NGK 6510 | TB coolant Bypass | JBR IM & TB Gaskets | Damond RMM, PMM, & TMM | JBR light shift weight | TWM Full Replacement Shifter | Cobb AccessPort V3 | FreekTune Chassis JBR Front & Rear Sway Bars | JBR Billet Rear Sway Bar Brackets | Whiteline Adjustable Front&Rear sway bar links | JBR Coilovers | Corksport BBK | Corksport Lower Tie Bar | Corksport Mid Chasis Brace Rice LED bumper reflectors | Morimoto LED Fog lights | VLEDs LED Highbeams | Independent Fogs | AP Engine & HPFP cover | CorkSport Pulleys | Corksport Leather Shift Knob | Corksport Steering Wheel | Damond front plate mount | Lukas LK-9750 2ch dashcam | Eonon GA7163 | thespeedline.com blue mirrors | thespeedline.com hood dampers |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score bleed with the cap off the reservoir. you need to alleviate the vacuum pressure created by a tight seal. Also, have a friend help you pump the brakes and clutch...doing it yourself without a pressure bleeder is nearly impossible.
__________________ Blue Pu. "Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you." |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Really?! Take the cap off when you bleed? So cap off, bleed with a friend pumping like any other Car? And where does actuating the slave piston by hand come into play, do you work it with the bleeder open or closed? Any links to step by step DIY? Clutch is still fucked |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yes, take the cap off during bleeding. As for actuating the slave, do it with the bleeder closed. You'd be amazed how much air will bubble up into the reservoir Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
__________________ 2011 Mazdaspeed3 non-tech package Drivetrain CorkSport 3.5" MAF & TIP | CP-E FMIC | Synapse BPV | CorkSport EBCS (Interrupt) | Bosch 3 bar MAP | CorkSport HPFP Internals | CP-E Catted Downpipe | CP-E Triton 3" CBE | JBR Stage 2 OCC | Kozmic Primary EGR Delete | JBR Secondary EGR delete | NGK 6510 | TB coolant Bypass | JBR IM & TB Gaskets | Damond RMM, PMM, & TMM | JBR light shift weight | TWM Full Replacement Shifter | Cobb AccessPort V3 | FreekTune Chassis JBR Front & Rear Sway Bars | JBR Billet Rear Sway Bar Brackets | Whiteline Adjustable Front&Rear sway bar links | JBR Coilovers | Corksport BBK | Corksport Lower Tie Bar | Corksport Mid Chasis Brace Rice LED bumper reflectors | Morimoto LED Fog lights | VLEDs LED Highbeams | Independent Fogs | AP Engine & HPFP cover | CorkSport Pulleys | Corksport Leather Shift Knob | Corksport Steering Wheel | Damond front plate mount | Lukas LK-9750 2ch dashcam | Eonon GA7163 | thespeedline.com blue mirrors | thespeedline.com hood dampers |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score you started 2 threads on this. Mods please close one of these.
__________________ "Sarcasm and shit talking are two different things. MSF offers the best advice, just delivered by sarcastic pricks, with your best interest in mind." -ThePedigree13 Silver 06 MS6 - DD stealth build - no show, all go.... '12 Abarth Challenge Car - very loud, very fast, very inconvenient to drive on the street... |
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