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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I really need some help. The video is a BONE STOCK 2012 MS with 2000 miles on it. Engine was completely warm when I recorded it. I have scheduled a service appointment at another Mazda dealership next Monday since the one I bought it from denies this sound even exists, which doesnt make me feel to great. The new dealership I am bringing it to is going to charge me a $99 diagnostic fee since I didnt purchase it there, which I am actually fine with. However I would like to have some ideas to toss out at the tech when I get there. Please help!
__________________ 2012 MAZDASPEED3 BLACK MICA (Stage 1, Cobb AP, Autotechs, Cobb SF, TIP & Airbox) Coming soon: 2nd etune 2013 MAZDASPEED3 Liquid Silver (Stock and not allowed to touch!) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score That might just be your fuel pump. The direction that you are pointing the camera is right where the fuel pum is and is known to rattle. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Diagnostic fee my aching ass! The car has a warranty, not your problem. If they can't hear it, provide the video. It's pretty obvious something's wrong.
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| Neutral : +1 score to me it sounds like normal fuel pump noise.
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| Neutral : +1 score Yea op you don't have to pay shit. Its called a "warranty" for a reason.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I agree with the others. Who the fuck cares WHERE you bought the car? Tell you what, name the dealer, because if they want to charge someone a diagnostic fee because you didn't buy it there, I want to make sure I never ever go there.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Capital Cary Mazda in NC. They are actually nice people so I am suprised at this as much as you. I just figured since I didnt buy it there this was normal.
__________________ 2012 MAZDASPEED3 BLACK MICA (Stage 1, Cobb AP, Autotechs, Cobb SF, TIP & Airbox) Coming soon: 2nd etune 2013 MAZDASPEED3 Liquid Silver (Stock and not allowed to touch!) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score It's a Mazda warranty, not a dealership warranty.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score does it make noise when you turn the steering wheel left and right
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Do not pay a dime to have them look at and or fix this. And you can't pinpoint exactly where it is coming from?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Video sounds normal to me. These motors seem to be really noisy.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score
I do know this, you can hear it while driving in 2nd or 3rd, windows open or closed, and you momentarily let off the gas and then begin accelerating again. I thought I might be able to record the sound while driving but that didnt work. I think I tried that before and it did not happen. What would that mean if it did?
__________________ 2012 MAZDASPEED3 BLACK MICA (Stage 1, Cobb AP, Autotechs, Cobb SF, TIP & Airbox) Coming soon: 2nd etune 2013 MAZDASPEED3 Liquid Silver (Stock and not allowed to touch!) Last edited by mhebert2001; 08-17-2012 at 09:08 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score i think you should call corporate mazda and ask if its normal for a dealership to charges a diag fee on warranty work? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score get a screw driver stick the handle end to your ear and stick the pointy end to where u think the sound is coming from. When you hear that noise that you are looking for through the screw driver, that is where the noise is coming from or really close to it
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I Lol'd I remember seeing my grandpa doing that and thinking to myself, what is this retard doing.
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I bought the car used about a year ago. It's a 2010, so it's going on 3 years old. I've had the car to two different dealers to try and fix the issue and I haven't paid a dime.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The $99 fee is totally up to the dealer to charge you that or not. One Mazda dealer charged me, another didn't and I asked why. They said its up to the owner whether or not to charge customers for a quick check. If it involves tools, then it should be paid. But if they just look in your engine bay and listen then tell the owner you won't pay for that and he MIGHT agree. Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk 2
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a drop or two of oil on the bolt that holds the buckle where it lets the buckle swivel. i did it once and never heard noise again ..
__________________ 08 MS3 () Arias Pistons & Pauter Rods, P&P Head, Port match IM, DCR VVT, ARP Head Studs, Autotech CDFP internals, F2 BSD & Baffle, Cobb AP, Cobb SRI, PG TIP, CS Test Pipe, FMIC, Tial QR, JBR RMM/TMM, Oil spin-on Conversion, NGK iridiums IX () Koni Yellows, Roadmagnet springs(6.5k Front, 6.4k Rear), Cobb RSB, TB trunk brace, AWR Rear Endlinks, SPC rear camber arms () Centric Slotted Rotors/ Posi-Quiet pad () Fidanza 11lbs. Flywheel, E4P STS, Cobb Shifter Weight, TWM Bushings, Redline MT-90 | |
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I can't believe how many people are being ripped off...lol Unfortunately that isn't the issue. I has something to do with the track/hinges where the seat goes up and down. It only happens when I'm going slower and around corners...
__________________ [ 2010 Black Mica Speed3 w/tech package ] go | COBB AccessPORT | Autotech HPFP Internals | TurboXS Catless Downpipe | TurboXS Race Pipe | Ultimate Racing Catback w/Magnaflow Resonator | Corksport Urethane Exhaust Hangers | JBR Boost Tubes | cp-e Nviscid Pipe | cp-e XcelNANO SRI | cp-e HeliHose | cp-e Stage 1 xFlex RMM | JBR SSB | RDS-05 Rear Sway Bar | Torque Solutions Delrin Shift Knob | Block8Head Dual Defrost Pod | Aeroforce Interceptor | Prosport Evo Boost Gauge show | BC Racing BR Coilovers w/Koyo | SPC Rear Camber Arms | Avid.1 AV-06 18x8 +42 225/40 | 2011+ Tech Headlights | Corksport Tow Plate | Morimoto 5000k bi-xenon / 3000k fogs | 3BSpec Switchbacks | Corksport LED Rear Bumper Lights | S204 STi Lip ![]() [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score All it is preapproval for diag... If somethings wrong with the car it he doesnt pay anything..warranty pays it... If it turns out its a noise for something unwarrantable... he pays.. (chances are its not) Also a good dealer with a good adviser staff will hear that in the drive and call it normal and send you on your way. That just sounds like any other Direct injected fuel pump.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Not normal.
__________________ 2012 Black Mica MazdaSpeed3 Mods (in order of significance): Cobb AccessPort, Autotech CDFP upgrade (thanks Captain KR for your assisstance), Cobb SF SRI Intake, Ultimate Racing cat and resonator-less test pipe, Cobb Turbo Inlet Hose, Cobb Knob, Cobb 300g shifter weight Tune: My own (based on the v210 and v231 Cobb OTS maps but ramped way up) Street creds: - Fastest known K04/93 MS3/driver with only an AP, CDFP upgrade, intake, and tune | 13.37@106.83mph on stock Dunlops (2.04 sec 60' time, full curb weight, 75*F ambient temp) - Has gone an indicated 146mph on three occasions now. Yes I will help you tune your K04/pump gas car; I have much less experience than the major players but I also charge you $0 and can turn you around quickly. 4 satisfied customers and counting... |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score it sounds normal for the most part. then he gets a bit of a sound where it sounds like a diesel right when he hits the gas. idk what it is, or maybe im only hearing that because of crappy sound recording. most of the noise is just the normal MZR DISI motor noise.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score There's definitely a rattle that shouldn't be there just as the gas is pressed. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Sounds normal to me. Def sounds like the fuel pump.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Sounds normal but as soon as you hit the gas, it sounds like a diesel tractor That's my 2 cents |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm 2 miles from capital mazda, bring it by my place and we'll get it figured out @mhebert2001
__________________ Blue Pu. "Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you." |
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I will PM you for a day and time.
__________________ 2012 MAZDASPEED3 BLACK MICA (Stage 1, Cobb AP, Autotechs, Cobb SF, TIP & Airbox) Coming soon: 2nd etune 2013 MAZDASPEED3 Liquid Silver (Stock and not allowed to touch!) | |
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__________________ 2012 MAZDASPEED3 BLACK MICA (Stage 1, Cobb AP, Autotechs, Cobb SF, TIP & Airbox) Coming soon: 2nd etune 2013 MAZDASPEED3 Liquid Silver (Stock and not allowed to touch!) | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I agree with everybody else that it sounds like the hpfp, but I'm willing to take a look at it in person and hopefully it'll be even more clear. I got your PM and responded
__________________ Blue Pu. "Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you." |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score even to me it sounds like a normal engine noise, but at the same point I do hear a rattle, and as far as a diag fee that is BS, our shop has never ever charged some one with warranty a diag fee for a brand new car or a car in warranty cause it was not purchased from us that is BS sorry. I am just getting pissed off hearing all this stories of these dealers doing people bad. I guess we take pride in our selves at the mazda dealership I work at and try to make people happy. If they do charge you a diag fee and you get a phone call for a CSI on them nail them to the fucking floor. Trust me they will feel that and it will catch there attention. And @ahfunaki that has a 2010 and has a seat popping noise there is a tsb for that, it basically states to remove the 4 bolts and make sure that the p ins are inserted correctly and then torque the bolts to spec. I have had @lagunamiata bring it to me and I did this and it fixed it for a short time and started again, and this time around I am just going to replace his whole seat track.
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I guess I forgot to mention that I don't have a warranty. I took my car in because i thought i had the VVT chain problem, which I am actually warrantied for due to Mazda extending that. If there actually was a problem then I wouldn't have had to pay the diag fee, but no problem so I had to pay. I never went to that dealer again and found one that does free diagnosis. The point of my post was to suggest to ppl that they should call around and get free diags. Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk 2
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If the next dealer says it is normal turn up the blose stereo and drive that bitch. Whatever is making the noise will either wear in or wear out. When it is broke there won't be a diagnoses fee it will be obvious. Any fees under warranty sound like BS to me.
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| Neutral : +1 score Walk up to the service manager. Look him in the eye. Wait for the question. Move head from left to right, and right to left. Repeat action several times until the point has been made.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I have this EXACT same rattle when you apply the throttle. Appeared after the internals install. I just came back from the (best in North America) Mazda Dealer, and it took 15 minutes for the gurus there to figure out that the rattle is coming from the fuel pump. They pulled the pump off, and said that the "HIGH PRESSURE FUEL CAP" is rattling side to side, what ever this means. They told me to install all my stock parts onto the car, and they will submit a warranty claim to Mazda. They also said that the fuel pump diagnosed perfectly, despite the rattle, and was holding pressure. So now I am trying to figure out if this rattle is normal with Autotech internals, before I spend a fortune on uninstalling and re-installing parts OR spending $1100 on CP-e fuel pump (while keeping my stock one for when my engine finally blows up, and I go to replace it under warranty). Any input is appreciated. My eyes are getting red from reading all the forums, but there does not seem to be any concise opinion on the "normality" of the rattle during application of the throttle in a modified fuel pump. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Mine sounds the same.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Can anyone explain to me what the "high pressure fuel cap" is, and why is this happening?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Mine makes the same noise as well and I suspected it to be the HPFP. I haven't noticed a performance issue so I haven't taken it in yet. I'd be interested what the dealers have fixed for others so I can just bring it in saying "fix this" and not have to argue over what they think it is.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Has anyone had the "HPFP Cap" replaced or diagnosed?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Rattle is normal. Gets worse as temp drops. Makes most noise at throttle tip in. Mine has been making that noise since First month of install. 60k miles later everything is still good too go.
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