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 Old 05-20-2012, 03:07 PM   #81
 
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Originally Posted by shifter48 View Post
No..there's no electronics hooked to the fuelpump..look at your other logs...like I said it's mechanical and something is binding in the internals...I'd get ur new fuel pump and bet things will go away

Gregg
ok well im gonna put my problems aside for a sec and ask you something. your 60+??? NOO WAY!! thats awesome. i hope when im 60 im as cool as you are.
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 Old 05-20-2012, 06:16 PM   #82
 
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Thanks...my 22yr old son and I raced shifter carts when he was in school. Now he races sportbikes and is in the Air Force. He'll be going to England for 3yrs and I'll have to ship him his R6 track bike. He already has racing contacts over there thru pro racer Chris Peris. He has all the fun. I bought the speed because it felt the closes to a cart..really feels like one with the motor mounts..haha
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 Old 05-21-2012, 01:49 AM   #83
 
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Originally Posted by shifter48 View Post
Thanks...my 22yr old son and I raced shifter carts when he was in school. Now he races sportbikes and is in the Air Force. He'll be going to England for 3yrs and I'll have to ship him his R6 track bike. He already has racing contacts over there thru pro racer Chris Peris. He has all the fun. I bought the speed because it felt the closes to a cart..really feels like one with the motor mounts..haha
yea i need motor mounts bad!!! sick of my turbo trying to rip through the firewall lol. just need to find out the right ones i guess.
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 Old 05-21-2012, 09:13 AM   #84
 
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Yeah, you get fuel pressure that low, that is definitely what your problem is. If it's dropping to 500 you need to get it fixed ASAP, and don't go WOT again until it's done. Everything I've read on here also says you drop that low and you're going to get electronic fuel cut from the computer for safety, which may or may not be what blows these motors.
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 Old 05-23-2012, 07:29 AM   #85
 
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Originally Posted by Darth_Nuruodo View Post
Yeah, you get fuel pressure that low, that is definitely what your problem is. If it's dropping to 500 you need to get it fixed ASAP, and don't go WOT again until it's done. Everything I've read on here also says you drop that low and you're going to get electronic fuel cut from the computer for safety, which may or may not be what blows these motors.
Yea after looking at the logs im thinking the same thing. i made another thread because i finally got the problem on log. Putting it in economy mode makes it happen almost all the time.

Im ordering the autotech internals, hopefully the problem is fixed.

only problem is my wife will F938025980in floor it when it wont go and get all mad. pisses me off. she has no patience.
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 Old 05-23-2012, 08:42 AM   #86
 
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mean no until she proves she won't destroy it, like loading it up down low or going WOT with a bad fuel pump. And it wasn't a personal thing getting the thread closed, it was just unnecessary, reply to this one or update the OP with the updated maps, there were already people subscribed to this thread that were willing to and already had been looking at your logs.
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 Old 05-23-2012, 09:37 AM   #87
 
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Look man I'm gonna tell it to you straight instead of pussy footing around.

Get that POS BOV off the car and put either the stock BPV or a good aftermarket BPV back on the car.
Then Flash the safe mode map and DO NOT go WOT untill you get HPFP internals or a cpe HPFP. You WILL blow the engine at the current rate you are going. And tell your wife if she can't stay out of the gas that she can't drive the car until you fix these issues.
OR you can put everything back to stock and drive the piss out of the car without blowing the engine...

I was gonna leave this thread alone until I saw you saying that the car sucks because Gen1 owners call the Gen2 a Genpu and because of "all it's problems" But all "it's problems" have been caused by you and your lack of knowledge about the car.

In short. Stock out and READ more on this site before modding your car anymore.

Otherwise you can ignore my post and just keep doing what your doing.

I just don't want you to blow your car up that's all.
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 Old 05-24-2012, 08:12 AM   #88
 
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Originally Posted by MS3G35 View Post
Look man I'm gonna tell it to you straight instead of pussy footing around.

Get that POS BOV off the car and put either the stock BPV or a good aftermarket BPV back on the car.
Then Flash the safe mode map and DO NOT go WOT untill you get HPFP internals or a cpe HPFP. You WILL blow the engine at the current rate you are going. And tell your wife if she can't stay out of the gas that she can't drive the car until you fix these issues.
OR you can put everything back to stock and drive the piss out of the car without blowing the engine...

I was gonna leave this thread alone until I saw you saying that the car sucks because Gen1 owners call the Gen2 a Genpu and because of "all it's problems" But all "it's problems" have been caused by you and your lack of knowledge about the car.

In short. Stock out and READ more on this site before modding your car anymore.

Otherwise you can ignore my post and just keep doing what your doing.

I just don't want you to blow your car up that's all.
I get what your saying, but the thing is the BOV is not the problem, its set to recirc and spring pressure is perfect. its fine. but, maybe mazda should put better parts on the car instead of pussyfooting around. i wasnt even going to mod the car, i was bent on buying an sti. We arent going WOT or putting heavy loads on the car.
and i did read up on shit, and i know about all this. the problem was that i was taking logs and monitoring the fuel pump pressure and it held over 1600 all the time which was making me think it was SWAS or some crazy shit.

2ndly ive been in safe mode for the longest time, ever since i put the parts on the car.

i knew what i was doing before i bought the parts, this isnt my first rodeo, its just i didnt think the fuel pump would fail on stage 1....

but i like your post, very to the point.
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 Old 05-24-2012, 08:21 AM   #89
 
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Originally Posted by SpdDemon89 View Post

i knew what i was doing before i bought the parts, this isnt my first rodeo, its just i didnt think the fuel pump would fail on stage 1....
Enough said right there. It is known that the stock fuel pump can fail with just an intake installed on the car let alone running stage 1.

Do more research.
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 Old 05-24-2012, 09:20 AM   #90
 
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Originally Posted by MS3G35 View Post
Enough said right there. It is known that the stock fuel pump can fail with just an intake installed on the car let alone running stage 1.

Do more research.
I agree that it's known to happen, but I will say in his defense that it's really rare, not like the almost 100% fail rate with stage 2.

@OP, On to the crap parts: the only really junk part they put on are the mounts. The CDFP isn't garbage it's just maxed out, no room to ask for more. It is completely adequate for the specs they built into the car. You're just asking for more out of it. Though once again, a concession that there are people who have had problems with the CDFP on all stock hardware, but that's even more rare.
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 Old 05-25-2012, 06:54 AM   #91
 
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Originally Posted by MS3G35 View Post
Enough said right there. It is known that the stock fuel pump can fail with just an intake installed on the car let alone running stage 1.

Do more research.
obviously i played it safe anyways by being in safe mode. but anyways i unplugged the SWAS and the problem is gone.

i have been observing the fuel pump pressure everytime i drive, so i did do my research, i just had high hopes.

Originally Posted by Darth_Nuruodo View Post
I agree that it's known to happen, but I will say in his defense that it's really rare, not like the almost 100% fail rate with stage 2.

@OP, On to the crap parts: the only really junk part they put on are the mounts. The CDFP isn't garbage it's just maxed out, no room to ask for more. It is completely adequate for the specs they built into the car. You're just asking for more out of it. Though once again, a concession that there are people who have had problems with the CDFP on all stock hardware, but that's even more rare.
well the car is running good now. took the SWAS off. im still going to order autotech internals, just trying to find the fastest way to get some. going stage 2 soon then ima get my sti most likely.
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 Old 05-25-2012, 12:31 PM   #92
 
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Can you get some new logs and post them?
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 Old 05-25-2012, 01:19 PM   #93
 
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Originally Posted by MS3G35 View Post
Can you get some new logs and post them?
Sure, it might not be today though, kinda busy playing family guy.
but i was watching everything as i was driving and it was 1600+. but i just bought the autotech internals and they should be in tomorrow.

special thanks to eric at edge!!! i dont know how to tag so ima wait for someone to call me a noob and then someone nice to tell me how to lol
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 Old 05-25-2012, 01:50 PM   #94
 
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to tag you just put an @ in front of their name.
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 Old 05-25-2012, 02:14 PM   #95
 
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Originally Posted by SpdDemon89 View Post
I got it in a log. happens twice in each log. im cruising, give it some throttle to pass, and it just dies on me, and even whhen i push the gas it wont go. it feels like it dies forever, then it picks back up like nothing happened.

this is with the economy tune. its teh samething that happens in stage1+ and in safe mode.
So why are you going wot with an economy map? If I remember correctly that map is speed limited. This could explain some things.

Edit: Just finished reading the whole thread. Guess everything is sorted? Oh well. Either way.
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Originally Posted by Darth_Nuruodo View Post


And as has been mentioned, there is absolutely 0 performance gain for changing the CBE until you go big turbo; stated another way, there is no non-rice reason to do CBE on K04. It's the cats you want to look at if you are trying to free up the after turbo side, either by removing one cat with a test pipe, or going with a single high flow cat long downpipe like Cobb's.
Unless you stock catback welds break do to the raw power you produce. Then it's not rice just a quick fix...
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, 33% E85, GTX3067r Boost?, Yeah I got some., Port and polish manifold, XS power Tubular Exhaust Manifold, Wiesco pistons, K1 rods, L19 head studs, ARP crank studs, Cobb three port EBCS, Forge BPV, CXRacing FMIC with TR8 core, cobb AP V2, EBC redstuff full, DBA 4000 rotors 6x6 slotted, HTP 3" full intake, JBR 88d rmm, JBR 80d pmm, JBR 80d tmm, CNT catted DP, Magnaflow CBE, KMD internals, Koni Yellows, Moog endlinks, Moog lower control arms, OZ ultraleggera 18x8, Mich Pilot Super Sports 235/40/18, Hotchkis RSB, NGK step colder plugs.


Build in progress. Track whore in the making.
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 Old 05-26-2012, 04:49 AM   #97
 
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Originally Posted by ASHMS3 View Post
to tag you just put an @ in front of their name.
i figured it was that but i started to and it didnt do any pop up or anything so i stopped lol

Originally Posted by smoogs12 View Post
So why are you going wot with an economy map? If I remember correctly that map is speed limited. This could explain some things.

Edit: Just finished reading the whole thread. Guess everything is sorted? Oh well. Either way.
I was going WOT on the economy map because it was the only way i could make it do what it was doing on will. anyways its not doing it now and everything is well. FP internals will be here today, and ima put in an order for some other parts.
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 Old 05-26-2012, 04:56 AM   #98
 
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Originally Posted by mzr0818 View Post
Unless you stock catback welds break do to the raw power you produce. Then it's not rice just a quick fix...
yea screw that im getting a full TBE. getting sick of people calling things rice when they are not. the word rice is being twisted.

Im not going to look like this......
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 Old 05-26-2012, 03:11 PM   #99
 
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Originally Posted by MS3G35 View Post
Enough said right there. It is known that the stock fuel pump can fail with just an intake installed on the car let alone running stage 1.

Do more research.
Internals on and running strong....i let it idle for 20-25 min and am going to take it for a light drive.

thanks for yours and everyone elses help

special thanks to you and eric at edge auto.....gave the best deal in the world and got it to me in under 24 hours.

dare i say i love you guys???
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 Old 05-26-2012, 06:50 PM   #100
 
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Originally Posted by SpdDemon89 View Post
Internals on and running strong....i let it idle for 20-25 min and am going to take it for a light drive.

thanks for yours and everyone elses help

special thanks to you and eric at edge auto.....gave the best deal in the world and got it to me in under 24 hours.

dare i say i love you guys???
sweet man glad things are going good now.
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 Old 05-26-2012, 09:02 PM   #101
 
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In all fairness, I called you a ricer thinking you were a troll or a total dipshit. you are learning quickly. Keep it up, contact one of the local e-tuners, @Bucker, @phate, @rfinkle2, @Lex, @alltheotherbamfs that offer etunes.
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 Old 05-26-2012, 09:56 PM   #102
 
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Originally Posted by MS3G35 View Post
Enough said right there. It is known that the stock fuel pump can fail with just an intake installed on the car let alone running stage 1.

Do more research.
True that. My car did. Than I flashed back to stock untill I got internals. All I had was a sri and tip.
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 Old 05-27-2012, 08:34 AM   #103
 
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See @SpdDemon89 alittle tough love got you going in the right direction.
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 Old 05-28-2012, 03:22 PM   #104
 
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Originally Posted by ASHMS3 View Post
In all fairness, I called you a ricer thinking you were a troll or a total dipshit. you are learning quickly. Keep it up, contact one of the local e-tuners, @Bucker, @phate, @rfinkle2, @Lex, @alltheotherbamfs that offer etunes.
i already knew i needed internals. just didnt grab them as soon as i should have. and yea ima need an e tune to get this baby running like it should

Originally Posted by MS3G35 View Post
See @SpdDemon89 alittle tough love got you going in the right direction.
lmao no it was the overtime on my paycheck now i need to get tuned, but i think i want to go straight to stage 2 so i can be done and get my sti or bike.
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Last edited by SpdDemon89; 05-28-2012 at 03:22 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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