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 Old 08-02-2019, 09:49 AM   #1
 
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Default How to increase reliability, longevity, and performance

By reading this forum and Reddit, I've come to the conclusion that this car will last to 200k miles as a DD, so long as I stay on top of all maintenance and repairs.
So what parts need upgrading or replacing. My MS3 is 100% stock and I want to get the most out of the car in longevity, reliability, and performance.

I just got "VersaTuner free" and I'll be monitoring/ logging my car data as soon as the dongle arrives. Other than a valve cleaning, CorkSport HPFP, and a compression check. What else needs to be checked/modified/ replaced? I just bought the car 1 month ago. It has 85k miles

PS- I change my oil/ filter every 4k miles and I already changed the transmission fluid to Redline MTL 75W80.
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 Old 08-02-2019, 10:08 AM   #2
 
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Stay out of boost and drive like grandma does to church.
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 Old 08-02-2019, 11:27 AM   #3
 
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No shit Sherlock, tell me something I don't know.
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 Old 08-02-2019, 01:19 PM   #4
 
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Keep it stock. Read the owners manual and replace stuff as is says to (oil, air filters, cabin air filter, coolant, other fluids etc.). Replacing the vacuum/boost hoses with silicone ones isn't a bad idea. Fix other problems as they come up. That's about it for any car. The MS3 is no different if you keep it stock.
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 Old 08-02-2019, 01:40 PM   #5
 
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It's that easy. Oh and read up the VVT issue.
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 Old 08-02-2019, 01:49 PM   #6
 
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you can read a lot of thread about what to do and not to do. we can,t answer that same question every time a new user come here asking and don,t want to spend time reading

It is about maintenance but also about how to drive (or not to drive) stay away from boost below 3000 rpm, don't beat it after a traffic jam, watch your fuel grade and don't take off like a teenager with a civic winging the fuel and dropping the clutch anywhere in the middle....200-300lbs of torque is a lil more than what a D15 can output at low rpm to burn a clutch...
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 Old 08-02-2019, 02:11 PM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by Sensei View Post
Keep it stock. Read the owners manual and replace stuff as is says to (oil, air filters, cabin air filter, coolant, other fluids etc.). Replacing the vacuum/boost hoses with silicone ones isn't a bad idea. Fix other problems as they come up. That's about it for any car. The MS3 is no different if you keep it stock.
Thank you Sensei for the informative and respectful reply. I will definitely put silicone hoses on my to-do list, after I get the valves cleaned.
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 Old 08-02-2019, 02:17 PM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by Jeff23spl View Post
you can read a lot of thread about what to do and not to do. we can,t answer that same question every time a new user come here asking and don,t want to spend time reading

It is about maintenance but also about how to drive (or not to drive) stay away from boost below 3000 rpm, don't beat it after a traffic jam, watch your fuel grade and don't take off like a teenager with a civic winging the fuel and dropping the clutch anywhere in the middle....200-300lbs of torque is a lil more than what a D15 can output at low rpm to burn a clutch...
Jeff I have been searching this thread for several weeks now for oem parts that may be a ticking time bomb or just too weak of a component on the car to sustain stock power/ boost levels.
If you re-read my post, you will quickly understand that I am not asking for driving advice, but rather parts that could see replacing, especially on a higher mileage vehicle such as mine. That's all. No need to get salty Jeff.
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 Old 08-02-2019, 02:19 PM   #9
 
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When I gave you that advice that is literally what you should do if you plan to keep this engine alive. Jeff went into detail you unseasoned steak, you do need the salt.
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 Old 08-02-2019, 02:26 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Db09ms3 View Post
When I gave you that advice that is literally what you should do if you plan to keep this engine alive. Jeff went into detail you unseasoned steak, you do need the salt.
I think he needs a little Pepa too. Without it, he's not going to push it enough to find out how reliable the car might be.
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 Old 08-02-2019, 03:12 PM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by Noah99 View Post
Jeff I have been searching this thread for several weeks now for oem parts that may be a ticking time bomb or just too weak of a component on the car to sustain stock power/ boost levels.
If you re-read my post, you will quickly understand that I am not asking for driving advice, but rather parts that could see replacing, especially on a higher mileage vehicle such as mine. That's all. No need to get salty Jeff.
The way you drive plays a role as well. You'd be wise to listen the advice from everyone in this thread.
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 Old 08-02-2019, 04:39 PM   #12
 
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I get 24mpg and I drive rather easy. I never use boost under 3k rpm, and I rarely drive in 6th gear. I also have habit of downshifting from 5th to 4th to 3rd before coming to a stop.

I'm not trying to argue with anyone here. Yes, I know the VVT is vulnerable and I've already had it checked out by my family mechanic. Is there any vital parts that fail or need replacing by 100k miles.

There must be something, I know my firebird always has headlight gear issues and a tranny noise. I've changed the assembly on that car more times than I can count.
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 Old 08-02-2019, 05:05 PM   #13
 
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From here on just keep up with the maintenance cycles in the manual. Don't overthink it. Change fluids on the regular and you're golden!

Reference the New Members Must Read sticky thread in the New Member Welcome subsection under the Off Topic Section.
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 Old 08-04-2019, 11:28 AM   #14
 
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so things that may go bad...

rear motor mount

turbo

bpv (may leak)

hose (bp hose) may crack (i guess this can apply to others as well)

also there are some recalls that you may want to check out

plus usual maintenance like struts, etc...
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 Old 08-05-2019, 05:12 AM   #15
 
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In terms of performance that does not adversely alter reliabiliy, there are three no brainers, once you’ve upgraded the fuel pump:

1. A good aftermarket SRI or CAI intake. The stock airbox is extremely restrictive. Replacing it with an aftermarket intake has been consistently shown to gain you 15-18 whp.

2. An aftermarket rear motor mount. The stock one is very wimpy and accounts for some of the balkiness of the shifter, especially the 1-2 shift. Do not go too stiff, though, as that can produce vibrations inside the car.

3. Consider checking and replacing spark plugs if they have more that 10,000 miles on them. Our engine is hard on plugs. Use stock heat range. Gap tight to .024” to .026”. Iridium fine wire plugs work best. NGK brand is tried and true.

The stock bypass valve almost never leaks at boost levels the stock turbo can safely achieve. Leave it alone unless you can prove it is leaking.
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 Old 08-05-2019, 07:30 AM   #16
 
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Thank you for the all the help everyone! MSMS3 you've helped me a lot recently and I really do appreciate all the help.

I'll do everything you and others have posted, in regards to RRM, SRI, Spark plugs, frequent fluid changes, silicone hoses, and VVT checked.

I just did a compression check on the car and my numbers are off.
Cylinder #1 = 192 psi
Cylinder #2 = 170 psi
Cylinder #3 = 160 psi
Cylinder #4 = 192 psi

Haha I also just found out that I have a TurboSmart BPV/BOV installed. I'm trying to figure out what else may not be stock on my car. I guess the previous owner lied about the car being 100% stock. I feel stupid now.
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 Old 08-05-2019, 08:49 AM   #17
 
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Originally Posted by Noah99 View Post
Jeff I have been searching this thread for several weeks now for oem parts that may be a ticking time bomb or just too weak of a component on the car to sustain stock power/ boost levels.
If you re-read my post, you will quickly understand that I am not asking for driving advice, but rather parts that could see replacing, especially on a higher mileage vehicle such as mine. That's all. No need to get salty Jeff.
I get that you are looking for longevity and more than 50% of it, is related to how you drive the car. I dont tell to grandma drive it but if you avoid some destructive habits it cost 0$ and worth more than any parts you could replace...

There is no real parts easily replaced for longevity purpose. Except maybe for the RMM and timing that could save other problems. For the other parts, you change them when it is time to do so either following power upgrades program or when they fail...

You would better do a careful inspection of every bushing, suspension and steering parts to clear any wear or play for road handling and safety. the fron control arm bushing and rear trailing arm ones fail often.
Lub the rear top plate on the shock to keep corrosion away
Keep a safe ride height with proper wheel alignement check,,,
-and enjoy!

Btw silicone hose do a nice engine dressing but i'm not sure they really do much for longevity....And be careful not to get products of lower grade than oem...
Up north, we have more problems with rusted oem clamps than hoses....
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If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks....
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 Old 08-05-2019, 11:02 AM   #18
 
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Originally Posted by Noah99 View Post
Thank you for the all the help everyone! MSMS3 you've helped me a lot recently and I really do appreciate all the help.

I'll do everything you and others have posted, in regards to RRM, SRI, Spark plugs, frequent fluid changes, silicone hoses, and VVT checked.

I just did a compression check on the car and my numbers are off.
Cylinder #1 = 192 psi
Cylinder #2 = 170 psi
Cylinder #3 = 160 psi
Cylinder #4 = 192 psi

Haha I also just found out that I have a TurboSmart BPV/BOV installed. I'm trying to figure out what else may not be stock on my car. I guess the previous owner lied about the car being 100% stock. I feel stupid now.
No reason to feel stupid. Someone lied to you. You had no way to know otherwise. Just proceed with caution. Can you take a picture of the place where your oxygen sensor plugs into the downpipe ? That is behind the center of the engine close to the firewall. I'd like to know if you have a stock downpipe. 18 psi is well above stock boost (your other thread).
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BNR Stage 1 (to fix smoking K04 turbo), TurboXS 3" Catless DP/RP "Stealthback" into stock CBE, Vibrant 3 inch Ultra Quiet Resonator in RP section, Magnaflow 3 1/2" exhaust tip, Mazdaspeed CAI w/air straightener and K&N conical filter, NGK 6510 Iridium IX one step colder plugs, Hypertech tune, Autotech HPFP internals, Stock BPV (works perfectly), Yokohama Advan Neova AD08R's (stock size on stock rims); Hawk HPS pads; SURE RMM; Grimmspeed EBCS (2 port mode), Bilstein B6's, SPC rear camber arms.
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 Old 08-05-2019, 11:32 AM   #19
 
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I'll be doing another compression check with the engine warmed up for 15 or 20 min and see if that changes anything, along with a wet compression check. I only had the engine running 5 min before.

I hope I got a good angle of the downpipe for you!
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 Old 08-05-2019, 11:32 AM   #20
 
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I'll be doing another compression check with the engine warmed up for 15 or 20 min and see if that changes anything, along with a wet compression check. I only had the engine running 5 min before.

I hope I got a good angle of the downpipe for you!
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 Old 08-05-2019, 01:34 PM   #21
 
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It is a stock DP, there is still possibility for a test pipe replacing the 2th cat but for this one you would need to look underneath to verify...
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Mazda for life...or until i can afford something better...

2007 rusted Speed6... in progress...
1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts
1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
Wife drive 2010 CX7

2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it)

...Because French Canadian...

If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks....
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