HPFP idle pressure fluctuating 60-360 after install
 

Searched, but can't seem to find a great answer for this.

Installed CS internals, jbr 3" intake, and freektune ots+ map today.

Idle pressure is bouncing around 60-350. I understand idle should be ~400.

Took time cleaning/oiling everything and making sure it was installed correctly. Other than take apart and reinstall (which ill be doing tomorrow), any other things I should be looking for?

try looking for your balls you fucking pussy ;)

ETA: Bump :D

Yo man, delete this thread and let me know what time your working on this hoopty, and I can help sort you out.


---Pauls friend Sam

What does your fuel pressure rise to after a warm engine shutdown?

if I recall correctly, you get a revision with freek's ots+ map. could be simple simple as a tweak to your maf, idle, etc. definitely pull it apart and make sure everything is in order tho. how does the pressure look under normal driving conditions?

You are correct. His RV is stuck open.


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I wasnt going to show my cards just yet, but ok.

If its the RV, and it's that bad already, I would not be driving it around. When mine went it was showing all sorts of odd symptoms elsewhere.

HPFP idle pressure after install
 

My bad. I am not allowed into card houses for this exact reason.


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Havn't driven it, as it doesn't sound/feel right at idle.

Why would the relief valve get stuck after installing internals? Wouldn't that be too much of a coincidence?

See attachment for pressure bouncing around 70-350. Blipping the throttle doesn't correspond to a rise in pressure. You can hear the car running unevenly.

Reinstalled the internals (everything appears fine) and its doing the same thing, next step is to see if it still does it with stock.

I'm focusing on the internals because I can't see why freek's map or the intake would be the culprit...but maybe i'm wrong? Could the map cause this?

.

My RV went out right after I did my most recent internals. Still think it's a coincidence?

Answer @JSmith;'s question. He is trying to help you diagnose the problem correctly...



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I was with him after the first time he installed the internals. not sure if the engine was up to full operating temperature because it was just sitting in the garage idling for about 5 minutes.

we shut the car down and the AP stayed at 71-74 psi.

Isnt 60 psi fuel tank pump pressure?

Research a bit more about issue related to having only in tank pump pressure. If that turns up nothing then I would suggest trying the oem pump internals and see if the issue changes.

If still nothing, I have a few known bad RV you could test with if you wanted them shipped.

Thats the RV. The ITFP puts out 60psi but between what the actual pressure in the rail is plus a deviation of a few psi 70-74psi seems "normal" in the case of a shitty RV.

If it was the internals or the spill valve it would just sit at 60psi and stay there. The fluctuating up to 350psi and back screams RV to me.

If you do drive it, ramp up the throttle very gently and slowly and see if it builds any pressure. Then blip the throttle and see if pressure tanks. Then you'll know your sure if its the RV or what.

These 2 things I mentioned are exactly what happened when my RV took a dump on my old speed 6.

Also, as long as you have ITFP you can gingerly drive the car. You're not going to fuck anything up just don't get into boost or WOT.

Is this a typical concern when going HPFP on the speed6? (i only ask because I'm headed there myself.)

It is a known wear item on this model engine, upgraded hpfp or not.

Replaced the relief valve, reflashed tune and still doing it.

Any other ideas?

If not, guess I'll start with going back to stock internals, then stock intake/tune.

HPFP idle pressure after install
 

I need a log please @Capricious;


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Throw the stock internals back in and see what happens. If it still happens after that, check fuses and relays?

What params you want logged? Don't intend to drive, so I assume you want an idle log.

Just the normal you would do for a data log. Make sure to check desired and actual HPFP. also, can you take a video next to your fuel pump so i can have a listen? Thanks


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Only need like 5 seconds of idle, and take another log of Key on engine off so I can see your ITFP as well.


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@littleloogy

First log is key on. Second is idle just after starting.

did you forget to put the bucket back on the cam lobe?

I would pull your pump and check your Cam follower. I would then check to see if the piston is not binding up by pressing on the spring with your palm, working the position back and forth. If they both check out okay then open your spill valve, take it apart, and make sure everything is clean in there. After you do all that and everything looks good, reassemble and try it.


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What do you mean by bucket? If you mean cam follower, it never came out.

RV replaced, spill valve cleaned, stock internals back in. Same problem.

I didn't take the cam follower out, but see attached pic.

Only other variables are intake and tune - I tried a different tune previously to no avail.

Can anyone explain the extremely negative STFT in the logs (-16 to -25)?

Guess I'll finish the stock-out and head over to mazda if that doesn't do it

HPFP idle pressure after install
 

Do one more thing, turn the engine over without starting so it cranks. Log fuel pressure. Something is definitely wrong.

Edit: Turn off and turn back on and read the fuel pressure. What does say?

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Check the fuel pump relay.

Wouldn't that relay be for the intank fuel pump? The intank fuel pressure seemed good (70 or so).

Just throwing out suggestions, i had fuel pressure issues and that fixed it for me. Though, my problems were slightly different... still fuel related.