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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score "I just called CP-E regarding their HPFP (back-ordered for a week and a half) and had an interesting conversation with an engineer. He said that no one needs this fuel pump unless they are doing extensive tuning/bolt-ons. I gave him my project list (same from this forum/thread) and he said that I do not need this at all (even with my hefty list of mods). He said that a ton of people come to them and say they are getting crappy Psi on the stock FP after mods/tuning, and even after installing the CP-E HPFP, they still have crappy FP Psi. He said most of the time it is due to bad hex tuning on the Access Port by inexperienced tuning shops. As a result, no fuel pump will correct incorrect tuning. So he basically told me to skip it, but then he said if I am doing all of this work and dropping near $5,000, then what's another grand before core refund for the top of the line HPFP and peace of mind? LOL" I don't want to start another CP-E flame war, but I'm really curious as to the merits of this. How would incorrect tuning result in FP PSI drop? Overfueling? I would assume COBB has a pretty good idea what the stock pump is capable of. So the big question is the CP-E guy full of shit? Why would he come up with that excuse if someone calls up looking after a $1000 sale? ![]() edit: I wonder if he's just referring to the ability to do a "safe mode" tune like COBB does for people with a stock pump?
__________________ JBR SSP - JBR RMM - AP Stage 1 91 OTS |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Here's what usually goes down... Do intake + another mod or 2 Get AP & notice your frp sucks Get new fp, change nothing on AP, and frp is fixed... I have a hard time believing that all of the frp issues are caused by the AP... |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score There's some truth to what he said but he's of course trying to favor Cp-e on this. The major cause of bad FP after an AP tune are overboost situations or crazy AFR's. I just fixed a guy's tune that thought he had a bad pump when all he had was some overboost. It's something easily fixed if you take the time to learn tuning by yourself, get help from somebody for an e-tune, or have a pro-tune. It its true that 10+ MS3's have a bigger problem with the pumps failing to get good pressure after light mods or an AP tune because boost is raised. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score How can anyone say a fuel pump isnt required with these logs prior to HPFP?
__________________ ![]() ![]() 2010 MS3 Black 395whp/386wtq | Molnar Rods | CP-e Stage 2 Pistons | Much Head Work | ATP GTX3076 | Tial 38mm EWG | HTP 4 Inch Intake | BSD | Passenger and Rear MM | Denso ITV22's | OCC | Ultimate Racing TBE | Tredstone TR8C FMIC | Tial BPV | Autotech Internals | Grimmspeed ECBS 3 port | Te37 Volks| 245/45/17 Dunlop zzi tires| Cobb AP Self Street Tuned | Sonic Tuning Coilovers | Stoptech breaks and slotted roters |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score What is your list of 'mods'? And yes i think the tune can make the fuel pressure worse than it needs to be... IE if you pump is on the hairy edge a lean tune could make it stay up and good and a rich tune could cause it to drop...... I think this is the case.
__________________ 2008.5 BlackMica Mods: - Cobb SRI, Turbosmart BPV, CPE RMM 60d, TRZ TMM, TopSpeed PMM, HTP Turbo Inlet... I'm workin' on it. AZ Status! |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Here are some facts.. Stage 0 map = stock mode = fuel pressure commanded = 1669 psi Stage 1 map =fuel pressure commanded = 1669 psi If anything, the stage 1 map leans the car out @ wot, as can be seen in the commanded afr's @ wot, stock mode vs stage 1 Leaner mixture = less fuel... I've seen logs from people with as little as an intake dip into the 800 psi area. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score stock tune, intake, tip, TIH and TBE were my mods in that log
__________________ ![]() ![]() 2010 MS3 Black 395whp/386wtq | Molnar Rods | CP-e Stage 2 Pistons | Much Head Work | ATP GTX3076 | Tial 38mm EWG | HTP 4 Inch Intake | BSD | Passenger and Rear MM | Denso ITV22's | OCC | Ultimate Racing TBE | Tredstone TR8C FMIC | Tial BPV | Autotech Internals | Grimmspeed ECBS 3 port | Te37 Volks| 245/45/17 Dunlop zzi tires| Cobb AP Self Street Tuned | Sonic Tuning Coilovers | Stoptech breaks and slotted roters |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score This is after installing internals... Still running stock tune.. Night and day... HPFP REQUIRED even with just an intake + DP Edit: yes i realize i was running super rich.. All sorted out.
__________________ ![]() ![]() 2010 MS3 Black 395whp/386wtq | Molnar Rods | CP-e Stage 2 Pistons | Much Head Work | ATP GTX3076 | Tial 38mm EWG | HTP 4 Inch Intake | BSD | Passenger and Rear MM | Denso ITV22's | OCC | Ultimate Racing TBE | Tredstone TR8C FMIC | Tial BPV | Autotech Internals | Grimmspeed ECBS 3 port | Te37 Volks| 245/45/17 Dunlop zzi tires| Cobb AP Self Street Tuned | Sonic Tuning Coilovers | Stoptech breaks and slotted roters |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Looks like its time for an Ultra gauge and then maybe some internals.
__________________ 2011 MS3 / Fully Bolted / 290whp - 320wtrq ~ Sold 2010 Accord Coupe EX-L V6 ~ Current ~ K&N SRI / 4300k HIDs |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I am experiencing a little cut and not even in high rpm's. Feels like the ecu is compensating like it says on COBB's site. It's a slight stumble, like if I let off the gas for a split second.
__________________ ZOOM-ZOOM-BOOM-BOOM |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I get that same feeling in 4th gear once in awhile. It never occurs at WOT only at part throttle....weird???
__________________ 2011 Black Mica Genpu COBB AP / Corksport SRI & TIP - LED fog kit - exhaust hangers / StreetUnit testpipe / OBX CBE / Ultimate Racing catted DP / CP-e TMIC - tow plate / Eibach Pro kit / KMD internals / Turbosmart dualport bov / ITV22 denso plugs / TRZ dogbone RMM / JBR 80duro TMM - 80duro PMM - heavy shift knob - SSP - shifter bushings - mud flaps - RSB - 5mm spacers - EGR block off - TB TIG and coolant bypass / RX-8 wheels 18x8 / 245/40/18 Pirelli's / Aeroforce gauges Stratified!........ ![]() E85 tuned - VD 348whp/396tq Future Mods: Koni yellows - OCC - BNR S3 - FMIC - JBR big intake - Cobb 3port - Bosch 3 bar - GA - retune from Lex |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yep, thats it!!! That is the computer overcompensating for the fuel pump (I believe). I read this on Cobb's site for the AP and FP upgrade for stage 2.
__________________ ZOOM-ZOOM-BOOM-BOOM |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I've noticed my car not running as rich as before. After all my exhaust troubles l, I'm just running the ur cbe and stage 1. Will I have to post some logs? Or can someone give me a quick explanation on why my richness is down? Mod list below Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk
__________________ 2010 Velocity Red Mazdaspeed 3 PERFORMANCE: CS SRI w/TIP, TS DUAL PORT, COBB AP (Stage 1), KMD INTERNALS, UR CBE SUSPENSION: H&R SPRINGS WHEELS: 18" SPEEDY LITE FINS (on stock tires) 2005 MAZDA 3s- Traded in for ^ 1993 HONDA ACCORD LX- R.I.P |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score on stage 1...mods in sig, I am running rich as shit. My hatch has carbon all over it.
__________________ ZOOM-ZOOM-BOOM-BOOM |
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Mods in sig also, carbon all over my tail pipes and hatch.
__________________ 2011 MS3 / Fully Bolted / 290whp - 320wtrq ~ Sold 2010 Accord Coupe EX-L V6 ~ Current ~ K&N SRI / 4300k HIDs | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Hmmm just a quick question, i have sure sri and a magnaflow cbe. Should i be getting a FP? i have a dash hawk and i dont see my fuel psi dropping
__________________ 1995 Miata 1.8 2006 MS6 Sold |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score So please explain the problem with replacing internals/pump? From everything that I've read, there is no danger in this mod, as it can only help. Why even discuss this topic....mindless chatter.
__________________ 2011 MS3 Black Mica Autotech Internals // Cobb AcessPORT (FREEKTUNEd) // CorkSport Racepipe; Springs; Camber Arms // Cp-e TMIC; SRI; TIP; RMM 75A // DDM 35W 6000K HIDs Denso ITV22's // JBR SSP stage 2; Mud Flaps // Tenso-R Concept 9 rims // 35% Tint // OCC (Matt Damon) // Koni Yellow Sport [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score My question would be, why is the ecu having to overcompensate for the fuel pump at lower rpm/lower load situations when the fuel pressure issue seems to be high rpm, WOT full boost related. Next mod is an ultragauge so I can see wtf is going on here and make sure my fuel pressure is alright.
__________________ 2011 MS3 / Fully Bolted / 290whp - 320wtrq ~ Sold 2010 Accord Coupe EX-L V6 ~ Current ~ K&N SRI / 4300k HIDs |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Sweet should I give you the address where you can send a $300 check for the internals? or 1000 for the full pump?
__________________ JBR SSP - JBR RMM - AP Stage 1 91 OTS |
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tapa that ass!!!
__________________ 2010 Velocity Red Mazdaspeed 3 PERFORMANCE: CS SRI w/TIP, TS DUAL PORT, COBB AP (Stage 1), KMD INTERNALS, UR CBE SUSPENSION: H&R SPRINGS WHEELS: 18" SPEEDY LITE FINS (on stock tires) 2005 MAZDA 3s- Traded in for ^ 1993 HONDA ACCORD LX- R.I.P | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score there was a reason that was "posted on another forum". its because its a bunch of bullshit. if you are modding, especially a genpu, upgrade the goddamn fuel pump.
__________________ '08 CWP MS3 w/ T3 3071r |
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| Neutral : -3 score Again, mindless chatter. Replace your fuel pump or don't, I don't care. Just don't waste our time with stupid threads asking the same damn question that's been discussed in a million other threads. If you're worried about $300, then stock out your car and sell your performance parts. Then your stock pump will work just fine, and be sufficient for your car. ![]()
__________________ 2011 MS3 Black Mica Autotech Internals // Cobb AcessPORT (FREEKTUNEd) // CorkSport Racepipe; Springs; Camber Arms // Cp-e TMIC; SRI; TIP; RMM 75A // DDM 35W 6000K HIDs Denso ITV22's // JBR SSP stage 2; Mud Flaps // Tenso-R Concept 9 rims // 35% Tint // OCC (Matt Damon) // Koni Yellow Sport [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Either that or the OFOP doesn't have the patience to deal with a forum full of flaming douches who'd rather post OMGFZRR!!! SEARCHORZ NOOBS!! DONATE FAGGOTS!! OMG HOWS YOU NOT KNOWS THIS! IMA FUCKING MS3 FORUM MASTERS I NOZE ALL AND YOU ARE TEH STUPIDS!!! Than help or actually at least point someone in the right direction. And the post was actually about the CP-E statement so it doesn't really matter what forum it was posted in ...douche
__________________ JBR SSP - JBR RMM - AP Stage 1 91 OTS |
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__________________ '08 CWP MS3 w/ T3 3071r |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Point proven...
__________________ JBR SSP - JBR RMM - AP Stage 1 91 OTS |
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__________________ ![]() Fast cars are for straight lines. Corners are for fast drivers. 2006 Corvette Z06 - AKA "El Zorro" Sold: 2012 Evolution X GSR - 394awhp / 378awtq Sold: 2011 MS3 Hypnotic Tuned @ 322whp/370tq |
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__________________ '08 CWP MS3 w/ T3 3071r |
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says the guy with another guy in his avatar... fuckin homo lol Last edited by guitarist302008; 05-27-2011 at 11:00 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost | |
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__________________ 2010 Mica Black RMM/RSB/SRI+TIP |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Thank you sir! Your comebacks are extremely weak. It's the fucking Internet take some time to think of something meaner, I wanna see the rage faggot! Also very sorry for making fun of your boyfriend...
__________________ 2010 Mica Black RMM/RSB/SRI+TIP |
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| The Following User Says NO Thank You to Post pwned For This Un-useful Post: | djthom (06-09-2011) |
![]() | | #36 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I acted like this once, when I was new here. Hence my 10 groans after 8 posts. Those are all from the first month I was on this site. Before I realized that these guys don't tell you to learn to search for nothing. They tell you to donate because donating is a kind of insurance, it's like saying okay, I've invested in this site, it's supposed to be fucking full of win, now let me have my slice of cake. I donated, and it was probably the most useful $10 I've ever spent. It opens you up to a lot less flaming, a lot less ridicule, and a lot more useful information. Anyone can join a free forum (this is free too, donating is an option) and get bullshit answers from bullshit members, but when you pay your dues here, you get straight answers from good guys who know their shit about our car. Don't for a minute think that you're in league with these guys, holding your own in an online argument doesn't mean shit... these guys have the knowledge you want, don't push them away with your faggot ass arguments and resorting to personal attacks like calling them homos just for their avatar... that doesn't phase guys who make those cracks themselves every day just for fun. This forum is unlike any other... the mods moderate stupid threads like this, they let the guys have their fun because they know at the end of the day, the information is what needs to be moderated, not behavior. Learn to search, donate, and make some fucking contribution you faggot.
__________________ '12 Ford Focus SEL |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score There are three way the AP can be requiring more fuel from the CDFP/HPFP: 1. Higher rail pressures. This was proven in this thread already not to be the case. 2. Lower AFR's. Again, proven not the case. 3. Higher boost levels. More air = more fuel. To see if this is the case, a GenPu owner needs to post up load/boost tables for the stage 1 and stock maps. My guess is that the AP alone isn't the problem. Edit: Oh, and brownies need to learn the fuckin' pecking order around here. Kevin>Rodrigo/mods>members>brownies. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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![]() | | #38 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I am currently running a higher flow top mount IC, TIP and a SRI with the AP- Running a stage 2 tune designed for mods similar to what I have. I stay well over 1700 PSI at WOT and AFR is a bit rich 9.6 to 10.4 at WOT. I was really concerned about the fuel pump given all the info and data. But its the stock HPFP and no issues. My car is a 2012 I hear that the pumps are like hit or miss stock.. Perhaps mazda took note of this? I dunno. What are your thoughts? |
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__________________ 2012 mazdaspeed 3, black mica w/ tech package, AFE drop in dry filter, Autotech internals and CS rmm inserts. . | |
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![]() | | #40 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score As far as what I see the desired pump PSI is 1750 for this tune.. I may be wrong However given the system I should be fine is I stay at that yes?. It sometimes spikes at 1800+ Kinda new the the DI engines. So I would like to hear everyones Opinion. In the end the more fuel the better. However If My AFR is good/on the rich side then I would assume all is well. For now lol. |
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