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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score It's the first time for me and none of the discussions I've read here about the process indicate what a colossal pain in the ass it truly is. I can't imagine how you guys are getting it done in a couple hours. I legitimately may have passed on getting an MS3 if I'd had a true understanding of this shit that some say is supposed to be done every 40K. For those who haven't yet gone through it...sorry.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score What are you having trouble with Sent while probably pooping
__________________ CS TIP/SRI CS RMM CS Sexy Steering Wheel CS Springs & Struts CS Shirt Throw Shifter CS Shifter Bushings CS TBE CS Boost Tubes CP-e TMIC HKS BOV in resirc DM Vented OCC DM TMM DM PMM DM SSP Autotech Internals Custom E33 Freaktune |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Nothing specific. It's just a level of disassembly and difficulty I've not yet encountered with this car and the discussions I've read suggest it's an easier job than it really is. I'm standing there, looking at half of the under-hood contents on my garage floor, wondering why Mazda would design an engine that needs such a huge breakdown to service it. Then, after taking everything apart, the actual cleaning is a bitch, and this is from someone who has all the tools and mechanical aptitude.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score There's ways worse. Ok at Audi Rs's. Have to remove the engine to fix a timing chain. Some GM cars have starters in the middle of the engine Sent while probably pooping
Sent while probably pooping
__________________ CS TIP/SRI CS RMM CS Sexy Steering Wheel CS Springs & Struts CS Shirt Throw Shifter CS Shifter Bushings CS TBE CS Boost Tubes CP-e TMIC HKS BOV in resirc DM Vented OCC DM TMM DM PMM DM SSP Autotech Internals Custom E33 Freaktune Last edited by Jonb82; 07-29-2017 at 06:13 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score everything always seems easier when you read a how-to on the internet or watch a video on youtube, i know that for sure. better off swapping to a new motor and throwing an egr delete and catch can on it immediately.
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__________________ 2010 black mica speed3 The go: Depo racing: downpipe (100 cell count), custom: FMIC. HTP: 3.5" intake, under route piping. JBR: shortshifter, RSB. Autotech: HPFP internals. Go fast bits: hybrid BPV, VMR: 18x8.5 V710s, Bridgestone: potenza re760 245/40/18, KW: v3 coilovers,SPC: camber arms, freektuned, Damond Motorsports: dual OCC, PMM, PCV plate, RMM, TMM, EGR delete, FoSt mani, Corksport: battery box(fuck this thing), injector seals, Cobb: EBCS, AP v3. AEM: methanol. Seibon: carbon fiber hood. UR: catback. Bosch: 3bar. BNR: s4, DNP: EWG manifold, Tial: 38mm mvs EWG. The show: 5% tint all around, 50% tint windshield, rally armor mudflaps, Sony XAV64BT touchscreen headunit, katskin leather interior, CPE relocation plate, Maisonvi weighted shift knob, Corksport hoodscoop, black housing headlights. Soon:built motor |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Or you could just not bother. Not like it`s a catastrophic detriment. I had 112K on mine and made well over 400whp on valves that had never been cleaned. Of course I had them cleaned when the motor was disassembled for the rebuild but it ran just fine prior. **and no, methanol won`t actively clean the valves. It`ll keep them clean but won`t make them clean.
__________________ Built motor w/ Manley rods & Mahle 4032 pistons,BNR S4v2, 3.5" JBR tru-wide, XS power V3 exhaust mani, ST intake mani, CNT catless dp, Magnaflow 3" exhaust, autotech hpfp, Coolingmist progressive (lots of methanol), Cobb FMIC, Cobb RMM, DM PMM, JBR shifter w/ Maisonvi knob, 255/35/18 Pilot Super Sports, Bilstein coilovers (f), Bilstein cartridges in (r) with BC linear spring conversion, GFB valve w/ a GA, Versatune so I can be a rebel, just a little north of 500whp. And Yeah, that`s Steve Vai playing my arm in my avatar. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You should do a downpipe. Valve cleaning was straight forward disassembly.
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__________________ UR TBE/JBR RMM/UNKNOWN HPFP INTERNALS/COBB V2 AP/CS SRI + TIH/CXRACING FMIC | |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I've just resigned myself to dealing with it. I have a second car, so that helps. If it were my daily driver, I'd be pretty heated. I'm deleting the EGR and installing an OCC while I'm doing this. Will those make a difference? Will they extend the interval at which the valves need to be cleaned? And how do you soak all the valves overnight when one set remains open?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I just said fuck it and filled each runner up. Egr and occ will help Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I used the right blaster, and soaking it overnight then blasting had the valves sparkling Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
__________________ UR TBE/JBR RMM/UNKNOWN HPFP INTERNALS/COBB V2 AP/CS SRI + TIH/CXRACING FMIC |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I'm using the media gun, walnut media, and the methods described in the many threads I've looked at, but I guess I'm still not doing it right. I've had to use a combo of walnut blasting, scrubbing with shotgun cleaning brushes and denatured alcohol, and picking with dental picks to get them thoroughly clean. I still have two of the eight to do. Jesus!
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