Issues after drag racing
 

I searched but did not find the answer to my question. I took my 2012 MS3 to the 1/8 mile to practice my launch for when i go to street heat at the 1/4 mile later this month. I did 5 runs but then when I started my car to leave (because it started to rain) my check engine light came on, car wouldn't go above 1500 rpms and i had vibrations coming from the front. My idle was also weird going as low as 500rpm and as high as 1300 rpms. I had it towed to the dealer and they said my PCM was bad. So they replaced it but now they just told me they started it back up and its running bad again. I never dropped the clutch on the launch, car still went into gear after just only up to 1500 rpm in the gear. Has this or anything similar happened to anyone else? and any thoughts as to what might have caused the engine running bad the second time after they replaced my PCM?

Mods? Pull the code and report back. And get a fucking avatar, I can't stand looking at that iDouche

Need code reading... He beats me ^^^

and why does your name have Texan on it, and your from FL :hitwithrock:

Need code readi.... ah damnit.

Where did the ifaggot come from? Where the fuck is PhillyB?

I have a CS SRI and TIP and a dual port BOV set to full recirculation. The dealer wouldn't print me out the codes. First time it threw 5 codes all for the PCM but they haven't told me anything about the new issue.

Your dealer sucks. Get the codes. If stock @ the dealer, demand regional manager, escalation to a Master Technician.

dealers suck balls, it's still at the stealership? find a reader to borrow. also check for vac leaks

Sounds like it could be in limp mode maybe, try disconnecting the battery.

Ummmmm answer ==> more drag racing,

I'm headed to the dealer. I'll try to get the codes to see what's wrong with it. And I'm from Texas but do live in fl. That explains my username.

They said Mazda told them to replace the battery because the levels were weak and then it was running fine and then it didn't run fine again and they even reflagged the PCM again and still ran like shit. Now they are saying it isn't throwing any codes but doesn't it take some time after you flash the PCM for the codes to pop back up? I forgot to get the codes that it threw the first time. I'll get those tomorrow when they call me. I was just dumbfounded that they can't diagnose my car

God damnit drive up to Jacksonville, I'll fix your car.
Your dealer sounds like they suck.

If my car had any power I might take you up on that offer. I think I can walk faster than my speed 3 right now

And this is why everyone hates the dealers on this site. Bunch of educated idiots. If its not in a book that specifically has it drawn out in color they can't fix shit. But yet will be the first ones to void a warranty over something that has nothing to do with the real problem. "your intake fried your PCM"

Not all are this way, but this dealership sounds like it. One of the first things I do is I wright down the DTC and what it is so the customer may know. I think you screwed something up at the drag strip, but if they re flashed your pcm will not have any dtc except for some U codes from the pcm being erased then loaded back up. And as far as I know there has not been any reflash updates. I would suggest going to another mazda dealership if possible, if it even means being towed. Also I would ask them which tech has been looking at the car, if it is one of the certified mazda techs or a actually master mazda tech?

Your from Tampa? Check nator FL for better dealers.

My guess is t bolt clamp rubbed the ecu wiring harness and screwed some wires, or the recirc hose come off your blowoff valve, that could explain the bad idle. Hope it gets worked out what ever it is, all the best.

^^This.

I'll offer a crazy option.
How are you motor mounts? I saw a car one time that nobody could diagnose.
The motor mount was bad and car was interpreting the extra movement/banging as knock and pulling so much timing the car ran like shit.
Reset the ECU and the car would run fine for a day and start running poorly.


I wouldn't say your dealer is all bad, at least they are working on a modded car, many won't do that.

I'm hoping it's something as simple as a motor mount. Hopefully I'll find out today. The dealers around here say that as long as they can say that my mod is the sole reason my car messed up then it's covered under warranty still. I just don't want to have to pay out of pocket. Next month I'm ordering autotech fuel pump internals, HFCS downpipe, CBE, and a Cobb AP.

I bet you the wires are rubbed through by the PCM. The turbo inlet sits very close and I have seen the clamps do damage to the harness.

actually had a member from this sight bring me there car in for idle issue and had a dtc for a idle issue, and his t bolt from his cobb intake actually did rub into the wiring harness going into the pcm, and I repaired the wire and issue has been fixed. And op if that is the case that they did this do not let them hose you over by trying to say o you will need a new engine harness bla bla bla ask them to repair it. It only should take a hr at most to do. I did the one on the car mention above in about 40 min. And if this issue is what I think it is I know why they replaced your pcm, cause the lazy fucks where to lazy to tear apart your wiring harness and start looking at the wires for damage, and if everything checked out ok like the iac,tps 1&2, and the app 1&2 they say to replace the pcm after inspecting wire harness for damage if there no damage seen.

Plus one to that also. With the amount of engine movement with ur stock mounts, it is very likely.

Mine even started to do this, luckily it only got as far as cutting the black tape over the harness.
Before I cut the bolt on the clamp shorter

Does anyone have a picture where this wire damage happens?

This is from the CS website, and the clamp isn't the same one from their kit, but if you don't clock the T-bolt correctly at the elbow between the MAF housing and TIP, the threaded end will jam straight into the wires at the harness connector on PCM. I made this mistake when I was installing my intake and had to correct it before I could reinstall the battery box.

EDIT: Added a second photo showing how close the T-bolt clamp is to the harness, red arrow.

Thanks!
I will be doing an intake in the future and this is good to know.

I actually used the factory clamp because the CS replacement one was definitely going to do some damage. glad i did.

So the clamp that holds the filter to the MAF sensor housing rubbed through some wires in my wire harness and now that the dealer knows about it I have to replace it or I won't have a warranty anymore... $1452 and once that gets fixed then I get to find out if my PCM is good or bad. I think it's good tho. If I would have known that was the issue I would have fixed that myself and not included the dealer

Read post #23 (I'll quote it below in case you haven't read it). Looks like he works at a dealer and is giving you some pretty solid advice. :)

No doubt it was solid advice and if I hadn't taken it to the dealer I would have had it fixed for cheaper but I don't want to void my warranty so now I'm forced

take this as a $1400 lesson, seriously.

if you can install an intake and turbo inlet you should be able to deal with problems like this, and dont take it in to the dealer unless it is surely fucked.

dealerships work on a system, they now want to do the entire harness because that is what the computer tells them to do, that's how it works unfortunately.

it literally would cost you PENNNIES or NOTHING with the help of your FL NATOR guys(wich are always hard at work modding speeds)

start reading and learning!:smashfreakB:

Ya you are getting hosed man I am sorry that this dealership is doing this to you. I told my service manager about what happen here and even he asked me if I could just repair the wire instead of replacing a whole harness, and to be honest I rather repair just the damaged wire instead of going through the hassle of replacing a freaking harness. And as far as the pcm that should be on them they are the ones that miss diagnosed the pcm so they should eat that not you. If the tech knew what he was doing he would of checked the wiring from the app,tps to the pcm. I am curious to how much damage this clamp did do?

Can't you just buy the cable and do it yourself? Similar thing happened to my other car so I told the dealer I'll replace the cable myself. Cable was 200 and dealer wanted for 300 labor. I saves 300.. just a thought

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Put putting around, you dont feel the effect of pulled timing like at wot. I can get 8° kr all day accelerating or cruising and not feel a thing... I can hold 8° for minutes! Jelly? U should be ;)

I would but I ran out of mikes for a free tow and it's over 30 miles away. I am getting a "discount" and in all honesty I'm really tired of dealing with it so I'll just pay them and lesson learned. I will be much more careful when doing my next mods

ask them to take a pic of the damage and to email it to you so you can share please.

I'll call them tomorrow and ask them to take a picture before and during the process so y'all can see what it looks like under the good and then the real damage that can be displayed

Man that's too bad, it's probably best to never get towed to the dealership or take the car there if you are not sure whats up, then it gives you time to diagnos the problem yourself or post on this great forum so you can go to the dealership armed with information. Hope it all pans out ok for you. Cheers.

Which dealership? Not like I go to any for repairs, (lol @my sig) but its good to know what dealerships people got dicked over at.