Just bought a new speed my first mazda! Any advise?
 

Hey guys I have been a long honda guy for as long as I've had cars but Honda disappointed me when their new 2012 si still didn't up the horse power or added a turbo to keep up with the times So I traded in my mediumly modded 06 civic si for a 2012 mazdaspeed 3. All I know is about honda engines ect. B18, K20, K24, VTEC, I-Vtec ect.

Any advice on good beginner mods for this engine? Also are Mazdas as reliable as Hondas?

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...daspeed-92852/

Read, search, read more!

Just read up, pay attention and you'll be fine. Oh yeah, FYHN.

DONATE, do all your MAZDASPEED research here, and almost forgot, DONATE.

:spankme:

Mazda's are very reliable if you maintain them properly and are smart about modding them. You can't just throw a TBE, MBC, and BOV on there and expect to make reliable power. Read, read, read, and then read some more. Donate for VIP and FYHN.

So all you know about is teh fucking ghey.... :hitwithrock:FYHN!

Welcome, steps to success here are:

1. donate,
2. post noodz of gf/wife,
3. buy HPFP internals
4. buy AP.

welcome to the site!

i am also semi new to the website.

make sure to donate its the best mod your money could buy.

i also came from a honda. start modding right and youll love it man.

FYHN

The motor in this car is VERY different than any on those Honda engines you listed.
Not only in how it drives but in how it operates.

Before you begin to modify the engine, throw EVERYTHING you know about those Honda engines out the window and read read read.

Welcome to torque steer and having nearly 300lbs/tq through most of the powerband. And you thought vtec was cool...

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

Ya and a simple intake and tune will bring that up to about 360 lbs/ft at the crank. At 3,000 rpms lol. What's the "vaunted" B18 w intake and tune make? Maybe 160lb/ft @ 7000 rpms? lol

I would ADVISE you to learn the difference between advice and advise.

What are HPFP internals?

Yea I saw that I spelled that wrong.

Whats a good sri to start out with? I'll start there. Till I get Tune money

use search. :damnit1::sigh1:

We should really include that in the sticky.

They are the internal components to the fuel pump that allow you to maintain consistent fuel pressure when you start adding power. On a Gen2 You'll probably need them with just an intake/tune, and you'll no doubt need them if you go stage2. Not enough fuel=BOOM on these cars, so be smart and research this upgrade before you start adding power.

I would recommend getting an Accessport before an intake. Best first mods are Rear motor mount, HPFP internals, and an Accessport.

There. I was nice. Now go read like everybody told you. Start with the stickies (all of them, in every forum), and then use the search button to answer the questions you'll inevitably have after reading them.

ok sounds like a plan. Glad I read this because I was just about to start ordering an intake.

Yeah, you can slap an intake on an MS6 or a Gen 1 MS3, but the Gen 2s (GenPus) are finicky with the HPFP, so AP first, then HPFP, then an SRI and a tune. It's not cheap, but it works best.

Funny thing is, Honda has a K23A1 engine (2.3L turbo) that has almost exactly the same bore/stroke as the K24Z7 in the current Civic Si. Couldn't they have put the first engine into the Si, or am I missing something (other than FYHN)?

:no1:


Why is it everybody likes to buy an intake for their car as the first thing they do o.O

Heres a mod order for you :)


1. Change Avatar
2. Donate
3. HPFP Internals
4. AP

or you may chose this route

Boom!

:)

Happy modding

I'd still get the AP first, otherwise how will you know your new internals improved anything, or were installed correctly? You need SOMETHING to measure the actual fuel high pressure so I still say AP first.

AP alone = +20whp
Add internals = +0whp
Add intake = +10whp
Add tune = +15-20whp and alot more torque

By this point you will be putting 70-80 more lbs/ft of torque to the wheels.

Or something like that. You can flash Stage1 on the stock airbox and still pick up an appreciable gain. You still need to monitor the fuel pressure but this combo is least likely to stress the stock CDFP.

RMM is more subjective and can be done at any time. If you want to do it first go for it. Not everyone bangs gears and does max launches, but everyone can appreciate 80lb/ft of torque @3,000rpms so I think MOST folks would get more of a kick out of the other mods first.

I think most people start with an intake first because of the sound factor. It just sounds good when you get rid of all that stock plumbing and can finally hear the whoosh.

Go here MAZDA and research the accessport. After donating the AP should be your first mod. It not only allows you to tune, but it also allows you to monitor engine vitals. It is a MUST!!!

to be safe High Pressure Fuel Pump (hpfp) internals are a good 2nd or 3rd mod.

depending on your cash flow depends on what you might want as first mods.

Rear motor mount (rmm) ~$100
Cobb AccessPort (ap) ~550
High pressure fuel pump internals (hpfp) ~350
intake/tip ~250


before you stard adding anything else these should be your first mods towards success. The stock rmm is fucking gay like elton john. Cobb ap lets you monitor things very important when you start tuning. Intake/tip= cool sound......with some power gains but kinda necessary when modding. hpfp internals are going to keep you block safe=piece of mind. Now search everything else

RMM. Advice from others I've received has been JBR chrome molly. It is only 100$. If not, your next topic will be "what is that loud clunk noise when I shift hard through the frist 3 gears", to save that (been there lol) there you go haha.

in for noodz of gf/wife or both :dance:

Edgeautosport.com HPFP are a must, you can get away with them untill stage 2 if you get AP,
To be safe tho. I am currently without them but I do have the AP with the Stage 1 map up on my car and my FP pressure holds fine and all other numbers are good.

TBH if you want to spend less money go with the COBB SRI its cheap (under 200 bucks), sounds great, your butt dyno may notice a difference and last not but least hearing it will put a smile on your face and make you want to drive more. Also if you do happen to skip the HPFP internals and get a AP atleast they do have a OTS Stage 1 map that supports that.

If your car is new, than you can also get away with the RMM for the time being as well.

So it sounds like I should start with RMM, AP then HPFP internals before anything. How long does the stock RMM last on a stock engine? This Mazda engine sounds so much more fragile that the Honda Engines I'm use to.

I don't understand to either but for now I'm leaving Honda alone till they catch up and make cars that are fun again. The S2000 was the last good car they made. BTW where do I donate to?

@craigrn16 these engines aren't fragile, it's just that the fueling system is almost maxed out stock, so any major increases in airflow will require an upgrade to the fuel system to allow it to keep up..

that being said, there have been quite a few engines blowing in the last 3 months.. curious. most were heavily bolted, many had big turbos and almost all were on some iteration of a custom tune. if you start heading in that direction, just be careful.

glad you're on board. welcome.

donate here

So I'm a little confused. Some people refer to the AP as a tune, while some say you need an AP as well as a tune later on if you do extensive modding.

Right now I just have a catback exhaust and RMM, next mods being:
1)AP
2)Cobb SRI (or do i need HPFP first even though I'd have AP by this point?)
3)HPFP/SRI (depending on question above)
4)Tune (if AP doesn't cover this)

Thats really the only power mods I want to do to my car for a while. Any thoughts on what I should do differently?

The AP = Cobb AccessPort = best tuning device for the speeds. Once you get it, you can flash a tune onto your car using one of their OTS (off-the-shelf) maps, until you can either 1. Learn to tune the car yourself or 2. Pay for a custom tune from someone here. Both are "tunes", one is just a basic tune and the other is a custom tune.

What he said! :haha:

Welcome let me know if you need any parts!

At the risk of sounding old school, my advice is to drive and enjoy it stock for a while before you go messing around with it. It's a great car in it's own right!

Catback is not a power mod and does next to nothing for these cars except sound...
just to add into the equation.

TP, and DP good mod for the money though.

This is totally a fair assessment. I did this exact same thing before I read this because I also thought the same thing after reading.

Ok thanks, thats what it seemed like but i wasn't 100% sure. Still though, if I got the AP do i still need HPFP if i get a SRI? Sorry if thats a dumb question, but I keep reading things that contradict each other sometimes.

It really depends. You're able to monitor fuel pressure with the AP so if you're holding pressure just fine (1600-1700PSI) then you can get away w/o the HPFP upgrade with only a intake. But if you want to do more to the car lets say stage 2 IE. DP then you will need HPFP internals.

Just remember every car is different. One guy may hold pressure no problem but then another guy ma not be able to hold pressure good with the same mod(s)

Just ask yourself this would you rather be safe than sorry?

my '11 stock CDFP is holding consistently above 1650 @ WOT, and thats with a cpe nano intake and an AP with an OTS stage 1 map, but only if its over 30-40 degrees out, during the winter when it was in the 20s i had some low spots where id hit ~1570, but it could have been wheelspin or from traction control.

now your speeds cdfp may react differently to the intake and tune, but the big reason i got the AP right off the bat was for the MAF calibration, torque management being removed, ability to log and monitor everything, and most recently launch control and flat foot shift

your mileage may vary with mods




shit, im a brownie again

I hope im right in assuming that the AP can work with any of the cars listed as long as it has a map, but $600 is a big chunk of change. Also i was thinking of getting the sri+tip combo, but now i keep hearing that the hpfp should be gotten before the sri. guess its time to search the forums again to find out how difficult it is to get that installed.

As long as it is part number AP-MAZ-002, you are good to go. I highly recomend AP as first mod, if I had it to do over again that's what I would've done. followed by JBR 88 RMM, followed by CS SRI/TIP combo, followed by AT fuel pump internals. Unless your stock pump starts shitting the bed right away(less than 1600 psi at WOT). In which case, internals move way up the list.