Looky what came in today!
 

So this morning AP and Autotech internals came in!( From Eric at Edgeautosport ) Now internals are being put in this sunday. Is there a map I could be running or just keep it on stock tune till then?

http://i477.photobucket.com/albums/r...AccessPort.jpg

You can run the stage1 map for the Cobb SRI

You can box the accessport up and ship it to me. :tongue: My AT internals showed up at my place today.

I went to COBB plano on Saturday and got my AP and SF intake. Adrian told me that you can run stage out with only the AP. I have since installed me SF intake and need to order my internals... which i should have done first. ENJOY!!

Im afraid of running lean on stage 1 with no HPFP till sunday

Sure you'll be fine just don't rag on it too bad

Cobb doesn't require HPFP for stage1. They recommend it, but it's not really necessary with only a SRI. I ran the stage1 maps for months before I got my HPFP and DP in...no issues. It's only gonna be 2 days. You'll be just fine.

Just keep an eye on ur fuel pressure.

I hate to disagree with you but my experience has shown me otherwise. HPFP is mandatory for Stage1 or greater if you want to be safe.

From Cobb's website:

Depends from car to car. Mine was fine last year all through the winter and until recently when I put the AT ones in. I was running 11.8AFR with other stage 1 tweaks successfully. No issues. But the key is to keep monitoring.


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Now is the launch control and flatfoot shifting only available for stage 2 maps?

my internals showed today too!!

Lucky, I'm ordering all my things in may.

Got my internals yesterday. Thanks @eric@edgeautosport

Alright this is pretty noob. For me to access launch control and flat foot shifting I need the ATR but to get the ATR I need to send a request??? How does it work?

I have the SRI, and I am running stage 1 and works great! Getting my internals soon from John at HPFP at his shop. Looking forward to that!

Go here: Cobb Tuning

And Cobb will send you an email with the link to download ATR within a day.

Thx I set up my LC couple hours ago! Now ill just need dp,rp, tip and ill go with a bigger top mount to finally put the icing on the cake with a tune from lex!

Understood. Cobbs documentation on LC/FFS is also incorrect. All I'm stating is 100% fact. Cobb is stating a somwhat ambiguously worded statement. Yes each car varies. I obviously got a fuel pump made on a Monday or Friday. Oh well, with the Autotech upgrade she's happier than ever. The key words here are "to be safe." I was getting 703psi under full throttle. This is not a fuel pump out of variance, this is a completely failed fuel pump. Anyone who wants to play Russian Roulettem with their pu, go,for it. ,no sweat off my back. Why would i make all this up? Direct injection and fuel pressure are super related. I'm just speaking from the worst case of experience and these are my recommendations,

Im stage 1 put I wont push it until sunday when the install is done. Also is did you have a '' break in '' time for your autotech internals?

They say you don't need to breakin the internals, but doesn't hurt to prime the pump before starting the first time so it doesn't have to start dry, and then drive gentle for 50 miles or somethin just to be sure everything is OK before WOT.

I did not break in my Autotech internals. I mean, I drove it easy for the first 15 miles or so, then let it rip. Still holding 1700psi! Keep in mind that the actual fuel pressure is commanded by the ECU. The Cobb OTS maps command a lower pressure than what the upgraded internals are capable of. See screenshot1. The ECU has a table which tells it, for a given RPM, to hold a certain pressure. Then, there is a maximum table as well ( I guess for when the ECU detects trouble, see second screenshot).

The values you see here are the stock OTS values from Stage 1 + Cobb SF + Cobb TIH 93 v210.ptm

You can jack up the max commanded pressure using ATR (see 3rd screenshot; I tried putting in 3000 but you can see it limits you to 2274psi) but keep in mind this put extra strain on everything downstream of the fuel pump. Injectors especially. So, unless you are putting down 400whp or more or something I would just keep the 1669 or whatever Cobb has in there. In other words, leave the HPFP tables alone :damnit:

Believe it or not, you may see a gain from just installing the Autotechs. This is because, unbeknowest to you, you may be running a low fuel pressure; not enough for the ECU to enter freak out mode where it cuts fuel and feels like you hit a brick wall (which happens somewhere around 900-1000psi) but enough to keep proper atomization and cooling effects from occuring which are really the heart of a direct injection application). This is the reason why so many people say "I have an intake and TIP and am running stage 1 and it runs great!" when in reality they are running barely over the threshold to send the ECU into freakout mode. I'd like to see the logs of some of these great running cars. So I'd say, IMHO, that if you have any hardware modiciations at all, that the CDFP internal upgrade can truly be considered a performance upgrade. Remember these Hitachi fuel pumps were designed to VAGs 200hp 2.0T engine; they were not designed for our L3-VDT which came out 3 years later !

You don't need ATR to enable LC/FFS. There is a utility under the MAPS section of their website that will do it for you.

May I suggest the following procedure:

1) Download a fresh copy of the map you need from the MAPS section of their website. Be sure to get the proper year for your car as well as the intake, etc. Obviously.

2) Run the utility located on their website.

3) Enter 4750 for FFS

4) Enter 2750 for LC

5) Enter 6.21 for LC/FFS threshold

6) Press submit. A new .ptm file will be delivered to your DOWNLOADS folder of your browser. This new file will have something like _LC.ptm at the end. Good. Rename this file to something that will pop out at you on the AccessPort. I like to start them with CUSTOM. Be sure to leave the .ptm extension

7) Open AccessPORT Manager (should be version 2.0.1.5 as of this writing)

8) Filter on MAPS

9) Click 3rd button on right "Import file to AccessPort"

10) Locate your new .ptm file

11) Upload it

12) Eject AP

13) Take AP out to your car and upload the new map just like any other.

14). Test. First take car out, let it warm up (when blue thermometer light goes out that means your coolant has reached 140F). Come to complete stop or at least less than 6.21 mph. Take a few seconds to look all around for 5-0. Floor it. Rpms should come up to about 3000rpms and hold steady (remember the tach on the car is notorious for reading high). After a few seconds the rpms will start to waver a bit. SilvaPain and I both think this is ok and acceptable. Now, with your foot on the floor, let the clutch out at a rate that holds the 3,000 rpms steady. You'll hear lots,of popping and dump valve action, its ok. After about 1.5 seconds of that just release clutch completely (remember your right foot is floored this whole time). Massive wheelspin will now ensue (see point 16). With foot on floor , shift to 2nd. Now, around 6,000 rpms (traffic permitting), put the clutch in but leave your right foot buried. The rpms should drop to about 5,100 rpms and just wait there. It's waiting for you to shift so go ahead. If everything behaves as I've explained then LC/FFS is enabled and working correctly on your car. No need for ATR for this much (see point 16 again lol).

15) Enjoy. Prepare for many botched launches as well as a few that will make you feel like a hero. I would recommend turning off traction control, but this is not required.

16) Many weeks from now when you get pissed off that you can't control wheelspin in 1st or 2nd gear, come back and I or someone will show you how to use ATR to adjust the Boost Comp tables and APP Translation tables to get all that power to the ground automatically (aren't modern cars great?)

As an aside, I would recommend reading my other recent post title "strange interaction between launch control and traction control.". Note that all my problems were solved by using 4,750 instead of 6,000rpms as the FFS value.