Loss of power / responsiveness
 

Hello all,
I have strange issue with my 13Pu 3000miles that happened twice already. So first time it happened when car was completely stock. It feels like the kick in the ass when turbo spools is gone…. Also Accel Pedal is not as responsive anymore, car is not as aggressive as before it is not accelerating as quickly and violently as before. So first time i thought ok car is really new and it might need to break-in…. After driving it like that i thought i just got used to the car and decided to install JBR SRI+TIP and car became really responsive again, you could feel kick in the ass when turbo spooled. After that i Flashed it with S-OTS stage 1 map and car felt awesome.
So fast forward to 2 days ago, i was driving and then all of a sudden car stopped being responsive and acceleration is not as violent anymore. I reset the battery hoping this will help but had no success, i found one post http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...iveness-85444/ that describes what is happening to my car.

Please help :)

Step 1, take a datalog.
Step 2, post said datalog.

3rd and 4th gear pulls.

Got upgraded hpfp?

HEllo,
I was able do do a 3rd gear WOT pull, please take a look at the attached log.
Im running stock FP i have Autotech sitting on my table waiting to be installed.

Kind REgards,

By the way this is the link to the datalog that i ran when car felt very crisp.
Now when i look at them they are almost identical as far as the speed and time it took to get to 65mph.
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ap-wot-164929/

you just got used to it...

What is your targeted boost at? Your boost is pretty low and you start running pretty rich. I am going to guess at a possible boost leak?

Could it be because of the temperature? its like 20F today.

Get a tune.

I was thinking the same, but car felt more crisp before, i dont know maybe im going crazy.....

It could be due to the temperatures if your desired Load is less than 1.8. The colder temps will allow you to get to a higher load with less turbo spool. I think you should have someone take a look at your map.

@untitledav;

I see you are running lean at the beginning of your run till about 3200RPM. AFR's are 12.94 at 77% throttle position and 14 psi of boost. Don't think that's normal.

Try a different map. See if it makes a difference.

Warmer weather will do this not saying this is your problem but something to remember


Sent from my phone whilst bojanglen.

Don't go WOT under 3k RPM.

Boost is very low, and you're running very lean.

How long have you had the OTS map loaded? If it has only been a few days, then that is a good guess at what the issue is.

I had S-OTS map loaded for a month already, and had no issues.
I will Try Cobb OTS Map, but do you think that OTS map is a good choice for JBR SRI+TIP?

I like to think of this forum as a school and of its members as students. You have not been a very good student. Ignoring that fact for a second...

Get a HPFP and hit up any of the E-tuners on this site. Adding power mods without proper supporting mods and feeding your car one-size-fits-all OTS "tunes" will only get you so far.

I flashed the car with Cobb Stage 1 OTS 93 and car feels much better than yesterday, boost is going now up to 18PSI
But i still think this is strange because S-OTS map felt really strong.
This weekend i will install HPFP.
By the way what is OTS SF Map??????

Thank you all for your help!!!!

COBB Tuning - MAZDASPEED3 SF Intake Kit

This is the SF Intake.

I suggest you drive 50-100 miles and then do a MAF Cal log so we can see what your LTFTs are.

Do you think i can run JBR SRI+TIP with Stage1 OTS SF?

Thank you for your input!

You can use the OTS map as a baseline. You can also download the COBB Stage 1 SF+TIH and work off of that. The stock Stage 1 maps are pretty safe, but you will want to tweak the map to your preferences. If you want your car to perform correctly, you need to understand what it is doing and how to modify it. If you don't want to put in the effort to learn your car, then it is best to pay someone who does know the vehicle and will give you a safe tune that will use the mods that you have to their full potential.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...torial-138781/

Start with this Tutorial. Don't worry if you don't understand everything that they are talking about right away. As you begin doing things like the MAF Cal, you will really start to pick up what is going on. ATR has some really nice little graphs that can illustrate what you are doing with these tunes. As you do your logs you will see how your car reacts to different weather conditions and fuel.

What you need to understand is that people are not going to want to help you if you aren't putting in the effort yourself to find this information. If you really get stuck with something specific, then it is good to post your question in a thread that is related. If you are asking for someone to do everything for you, then you are going to be ignored.

The S-OTS maps are load based configurations, so with a temperature drop you could be achieving the load targets with less boost required. So it might "feel" slower, but is actually performing the same (load wise).

Other than that, check for leaks and take more logs (4th gear preferably).

I would also stick with the S-OTS map if it is performing well. It is designed for the JBR pp intake, and is far superior to Cobb maps.

I will read up on this and thank you for the info sir!!!!

I ran S-OTS map for a month and car ran great, but then became unresponsive and kinda slow.
I checked for leaks and loose 'bolts' and everything is in order.
I just wonder why car became slower and less crisp after a month of running S-OTS

Thought I just offered an explanation of that.

Yep, I did.

When i first loaded S-OTS temps outside were 0F and car ran very strong now temperature went up to 20F and car feels slow.
Does that makes sense?
Thank you!

If it got warmer then no, it doesn't make sense.

That being said, a map doesn't change once it's flashed, so a drastic change in performance would almost definitely be a mechanical issue. Flashing different maps is just disguising it and making it harder to diagnose.

Interesting i will probably take it in to the dealer and let them check but i will also flash it back to S-OTS and compare to OTS responsiveness. Im just puzzled car ran great and then all of a sudden sluggish…..
Thank you

No problem.

Logs logs logs.

or like i said, you got used to it as well. i have so many people ask me to review logs because they think their car got slower, when in reality everything is running perfect. the s-ots maps are load based and will aim to produce the same calculated load in all conditions.

you should go into the archives on cobbtunings website for a map with the jbr intake, the cobb intake values are much different than most, typically you will just run rich with the cobb values flashed. they are typically about 10% off.

I see it is the possibility:) But I'm just that paranoid sorry….
So running Cob Stage1 OTS SF with JBR SRI+TIP stuff will run rich?

Thanks

So quick Update:
I flashed the car with S-OTS map and car runs great, I'm not sure what happened in the first place but flashing car resolved the issue.