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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I bought my 2013 Ms3 last weekend. Have about 130 miles on it. Is there a mileage threshold that people like to shoot for before throwing on mods? I'm looking to throw on a JBR SRI and RMM. Is my mileage too low to start looking at things or are these cars clear from the get go? Thanks |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Use some common sense. You haven't even broken the car in yet. Why don't you drive it for a couple hundred miles before you start putting crap on your car. Hell, you might even like it stock. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Congrats on the new ride .... No mileage is too low to mod. Search read and go VIP! |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score It's fun as it is, but as someone who built their first car (66 Mustang) tweaking cars is in my blood. I blacked the emblems the same day I bought it. Lol |
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Most engines have to go through a break in period, where the various top and bottom end components wear into eachother to create better seals, etc. Doing small mods like motor mounts and an air intake will be fine; meth injection and a bt would be crossing the line. I would say, wait till your at 1000 miles before you do anything requiring a tune.
__________________ 2011 Mazdaspeed 3 Cobb v3 AP | Autotech CDFP | JBR Sri | JBR Balance Shaft Delete | JBR Rear Sway Bar | JBR 88 duro RMM | M2 Testpipe | Corksport Tip | Corksport Short Shifter | Corksport SSP | Corksport Shifter Bushings | Cobb Counterweight | H&R Lowering Springs | Joseph Koni Shocks/Struts | SPC Rear Camber Arms ![]() | |
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before you start adding anything, drive it stock at least until break in is finished (though break in these days is not what it used to be) you might have to take it back to the dealer for odds and ends, and knowing how it *should* sound stock will help you when you do mod it and question whether or not it sounds/feels off....
__________________ mods: \\// AT HPFP // AccessPort // CS S2 TIP, SRI and TMIC // CPe S2 RMM // Synapse BPV // Mazda gutted secondary cat // S-OTS+ 91S2 // HKS TP DLi II // Wilwood DP6 13” brakes // TCE 2 piece rear rotors // Maxwell SuperCap/LiFePO4 cell \\// waiting for install: \\// CPE Catted DP // CS Battery Box // Devils Own Meth kit // H&R Coilovers \\// | |
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All I'm looking to do right now is SRI, RMM, Eibach pro-kit and Axle-back. Anyone else have input? | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You can do the RMM like yesterday and a SSP, I waited till I did my first oil change to put the intake and tip on but that was me just being picky about the car.
__________________ CS SRI, TIP, SBT & BPH, BPV, SECBE/CP-e RMM, Catted-DP, TMIC/JBR SSP s2, RSB, TMM/AT Internals/Cobb AP/H&R springs/NGK plugs/SPC camber arms/MB Weapon rims/Pending install: Sure TIGS ![]() 285whp/321wtq-93 E85 tune in progress |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Besides breaking the engine in properly, I would go ahead and change the oil and filter at the 1000 mile mark just to err on the side of caution. I would definately wait until after that point to mod just in case you need to go back to the dealer.
__________________ "Stockish" Black Mica 2010 MS3 Genpu Pickles Tune in progress |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Guess I should have mentioned that my dealer is cool with light mods, so I'm not worried about taking it in to them with an intake on or anything. |
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Get to know stock look and feel first, my dealer has seen my CP-E nano/TIP commented on it being a nice option but to watch the TIP for the harness rubbing several have seen as they would not cover that if it were damaged.
__________________ mods: \\// AT HPFP // AccessPort // CS S2 TIP, SRI and TMIC // CPe S2 RMM // Synapse BPV // Mazda gutted secondary cat // S-OTS+ 91S2 // HKS TP DLi II // Wilwood DP6 13” brakes // TCE 2 piece rear rotors // Maxwell SuperCap/LiFePO4 cell \\// waiting for install: \\// CPE Catted DP // CS Battery Box // Devils Own Meth kit // H&R Coilovers \\// | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score My dealer has not seen my car since it left the lot..
__________________ CS SRI, TIP, SBT & BPH, BPV, SECBE/CP-e RMM, Catted-DP, TMIC/JBR SSP s2, RSB, TMM/AT Internals/Cobb AP/H&R springs/NGK plugs/SPC camber arms/MB Weapon rims/Pending install: Sure TIGS ![]() 285whp/321wtq-93 E85 tune in progress |
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| I'd recommend a RMM asap, but I'd honestly recommend waiting for the rest. At least put 1-1.5k on it. I don't know what kind of impact it could possibly have on the break-in period, but its always better to play it safe. Also, check your oil periodically. Like when you fill up, or once a week. I use about a half quart in the first 1500 miles, and then after 1500 I didn't use any. Drive you car and enjoy it stock for a little bit. Then go cray after 1500. Hell, I had more miles on my car the day I brought it home then you do right now. And stay off the highway; you want RPM variation, so don't go cruise on the highway at 3k for a long period of time. I wouldn't recommend beating the piss out of it, but don't baby it either. It needs to see higher RPMs.
__________________ CP-e S2 RMM // TurbineTech FMM // Ghetto SRI // 3" ATP MAF housing // Ultimate Racing CBE // Ebay Downpipe // Cobb AP // Autotechs // PG TIP // HKS V4 BOV // NGK Iridiums // ACT Street Disc // JBR Trans Mount Rich Tuned 330WHP and 363TQ 10-19-13 Moore Automotive ![]() |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Alright, I'll probably order the rmm and Sri from jbr at the same time and just wait to throw the Sri on. I'd have more miles on it but my work commute is a whopping 2 miles, lol. Any thoughts on axle-back or eibach pro kit from anyone? Wait? Have it done whenever? Inb4exhaustmakesnopowercomments Tappa da bass mon
__________________ 2013 CWP w/ tech - JBR SRI / JBR 80a RMM / JBR SSP / Res Delete / CS RSB / CS Fog Lights / CS Interior Light Kit / 15% Tint |
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| hidin in yo bushes ![]() Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Soviet Maryland
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| Ugh, you better drive that car more than just 4 miles a day. Fuck, should have bought a damn bicycle instead...
__________________ CP-e S2 RMM // TurbineTech FMM // Ghetto SRI // 3" ATP MAF housing // Ultimate Racing CBE // Ebay Downpipe // Cobb AP // Autotechs // PG TIP // HKS V4 BOV // NGK Iridiums // ACT Street Disc // JBR Trans Mount Rich Tuned 330WHP and 363TQ 10-19-13 Moore Automotive ![]() |
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![]() And I have 3 bicycles thank you very much. I ride them to class. I figured a new car was the next logical step. Hahaha | |
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| I had 500 miles in 3 days. Break it in so you can actually drive the damn thing.
__________________ CP-e S2 RMM // TurbineTech FMM // Ghetto SRI // 3" ATP MAF housing // Ultimate Racing CBE // Ebay Downpipe // Cobb AP // Autotechs // PG TIP // HKS V4 BOV // NGK Iridiums // ACT Street Disc // JBR Trans Mount Rich Tuned 330WHP and 363TQ 10-19-13 Moore Automotive ![]() |
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I did SRI/TIH after about 600 miles followed by SSP/bushings not to long after. Installed FP internals around 1500 and installed the AP around 3000 miles. Rear motor mount and catless DP/TP at 5000 miles. I also did a bunch of random appearance mods along the way. Like everyone has said, drive it stock for a while and let the motor break in. Then change the oil and start modding!
__________________ 2012 Liquid Silver Metallic MazdaSpeed3 with Tech Package. South Bend Clutch Stage 3 Endurance | TWM Full Replacement Shifter | Synapse Engineering BPV | Autotech Internals | Grimmspeed EBCS - 3port | NGK 1 Step Colder Plugs | CNT Catless DP and CBE w/resonator deleted | COBB AP - E35 Tune | HTP 3.5" Intake w/ AMSOIL Dry Filter and Pre-Filter | HTP Battery Tray w/ Energizer 51R | CP-E TMIC | CorkSport DISI Silicone Boost Tubes | Damond Motorsports/Saikou Michi Co. Stage2 OCC | Damond Motorsports Short Shift Plate | Sure Countershift | BOSCH 3 Bar MAP w/MattJackson86 PnP Harness | JBR Rear Sway Bar | JBR EGR Block Off Kit | JBR Manifold - TIG | JBR Throttle Body TIG & Coolant Bypass | JBR 88a RMM | JBR 88a TMM | JBR 80a PMM |JBR DISI Bypass Valve Hose | Ported and Polished Intake Manifold DIY | RX8 Wheels w/ Nitto Motivo 235/40/18 Tires | CP-E Towplate | DIY Custom 600g Shift Knob | Redline Tuning Hood QuickLIFT | 30% / 15% Tint | Craven Speed Stubby Antenna | Broadway 400mm Rear View Mirror | Debadged Mazdaspeed 3 Waiting to be installed: Devil's Own Stage 2 DVC-30 Meth Injection | Damond Motorsports Meth Throttle Body Plate On Order: Coming Soon: DIY Projects: FYCN - TEAM LBN BEERS - FYCN-TEAM MUMFORD - FYCN | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If you were part of NJ NATOR, your warranty would be history by 130 miles on the clock
__________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] 2011 Red MS3![]() CS intake/TIP~RA Flappies~JBR RSB~JBR RMM~JBR SSP~Moddiction ANVIL~OBX catty back~COBB AP~ Autotech Internals~ TEST PIPE~227 cans of PLasti DIP NJ NATOR |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I'll get on that boss. I'm generally either working or in class during most daylight hours M-F but I'll see what I can do. Haha Countless hours on this forum have led me to believe this to be true. Hahaha Last edited by Zalligan; 02-28-2013 at 12:45 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I remember when my bought my s2000 new I drove it 700 miles varying speed so break in would be done in the first 15 hours Most modern engines are broken in from the factory That said there are guys with 5000$ parts for new car before they get home while there are others who don't mod before warranty is up I buy a car, drive for 90 days, then take it to track day, and ascertain what is needed improvement wise for me and how I use the car, then I star modding addressing the weaknesses |
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| Yeah, I was at the track shortly after first oil change. LOL.
__________________ CP-e S2 RMM // TurbineTech FMM // Ghetto SRI // 3" ATP MAF housing // Ultimate Racing CBE // Ebay Downpipe // Cobb AP // Autotechs // PG TIP // HKS V4 BOV // NGK Iridiums // ACT Street Disc // JBR Trans Mount Rich Tuned 330WHP and 363TQ 10-19-13 Moore Automotive ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Fully bolted under 250 miles minus a FMIC cause waiting for BT in a week our so. Sent from my frontal cortex.
__________________ Nator is what it does. |
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__________________ CS SRI, TIP, SBT & BPH, BPV, SECBE/CP-e RMM, Catted-DP, TMIC/JBR SSP s2, RSB, TMM/AT Internals/Cobb AP/H&R springs/NGK plugs/SPC camber arms/MB Weapon rims/Pending install: Sure TIGS ![]() 285whp/321wtq-93 E85 tune in progress | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I dont understand why people buy cars and dont drive them. Its a mazda, its ok to drive in the rain.
__________________ 2010 Speed3 w/tech Bolted E85 FREEKTUNE |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score As others have said 1000 to 1500 miles change oil and have at it. Do yourself a favor and stay away from that stealership cool service manager or not. Stealerships sale cars, this forum is the best place for technical advice and knowledge. I have never been a part of a car community and forum with as many resources and knowledge. Enjoy the ride.
__________________ AP, Corksport SRI/TIP, MD OCC, Autotech internals, CPE stage 2 RMM |
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If something goes wrong I'm damn sure not going to pay to fix it if Mazda will pick up the tab. That'd be a waste of money, no matter how you feel about a dealership. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Had all the parts on my 2010 till the Sandy saltwater mod. Sent from my frontal cortex.
__________________ Nator is what it does. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You guys are fucking pansies. He's talking about an intake and RMM, not a fucking track monster. Fuck man, install that shit. You guys should be ashamed of yourselves for being so fucking timid. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Zalligan For This Useful Post: | kritz (02-28-2013) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yeah, I just waited till 1k so the temptation of trying out that intake didn't get the best of me. I have always put at least 1k on a fresh engine before giving her hell. I also believe it makes sense to get the break in oil changed before running the piss out of it. RMM swap NCE.
__________________ AP, Corksport SRI/TIP, MD OCC, Autotech internals, CPE stage 2 RMM |
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The local Ferrari forum I am on, there are few guys with 612 and 575 with 70-90K miles, as its their DD. THere are other guys with 355 with less than 5K miles, because they rather polish it than drive it. I traded my 998 with 49,500 miles on it, on a 1098, whereas lots of my friends use their 998 as living room decoration. I tend to drive/use my things, but I have respect for people who rather pose with their stuff at starbucks, or just enjoy polishing it in their garage. At the end of the day we can appreciate all of that. I have been in the MIata community almost 19 years. THere are people with 1990-1991 Miatas with less than 10K miles, use it on a sunny day, and my neighbor has a new GT3 RS with almost 18k miles as thats his beater car. Its all relative.... Just giving you a hard time, future doc Last edited by 90210; 02-28-2013 at 05:39 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm Gryss, LOL No issues what so ever. I'm currently at 5500 miles and working on my 91/E85 tune. Also, I beat the piss out of my 2013 as safely as possible. It's already seen some very aggressive driving and some Auto-x
__________________ 2013 CWP W/ Tech" LS/VTEC swap running 9's |
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end rant
__________________ 2010 Speed3 w/tech Bolted E85 FREEKTUNE | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score THIS^^^^^ ![]() my car was on track at about 3500kms. and 10 times before 20,000kms. drop in some rotella after a few thousand and go nuts. this thread reminds me of the STI/EVO threads about how they dont drive there cars in the winter or when its rainy LOL |
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