Low Mileage Modding

[makjur]

Originally Posted by Zalligan I searched and couldn't find an answer. I bought my 2013 Ms3 last weekend. Have about 130 miles on it. Is there a mileage threshold that people like to shoot for before throwing on mods? I'm looking to throw on a JBR SRI and RMM. Is my mileage too low to start looking at things or are these cars clear from the get go? Thanks

As pretty much everyone has suggested, get a rear motor mount
I would personally avoid a short shift plate, have read too many stories about synchros getting fucked up, search for a thread titled "gear heads weigh in on this" or something of like that

engine break in... Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
drive it like you stole it

I installed an intake and OTS tune at around 12k miles

If you donate you will have access to the for sale sections, I got a used JBR RMM and was able to send it out to get the bushing replaced all for cheaper then new

[Zalligan]

JBR 80duro is one the way. Already donated, keep forgetting to check out the FS section.

How do you like your RMM? Haven't found a lot of info on the 80s

[makjur]

Originally Posted by Zalligan JBR 80duro is one the way. Already donated, keep forgetting to check out the FS section. How do you like your RMM? Haven't found a lot of info on the 80s

I think the 80 is just right, you will definately notice more cabin vibrations
After 100 miles or so it wears in a bit, but still reminds you its there, constantly
It seems to sound as loud in the car as right by the tail pipes at a few sweet spot rpm's that cause some resonance effect to happen
I like it, am used to it, and like the way it tightened things up, way cleaner shifts now

lots of people here swear by the dog bone, but I just wanted to calm down the engine movement, and got a good deal on it

[90210]

Originally Posted by mrshoulders I guess what i am trying to say is that cars are made to be driven. Besides the kissing and polishing people should be driving their car and have twice as much fun. Whats the point of getting a performance car and not pushing it to its limits? Why get an AMG if you will drive it like a base benz? Same goes for the rain argument, they are meant to do be driven in the rain! it wont damage the car in any way. end rant

I don't disagrree at all. Just saying in the world, there are all kinds. At the end of the day people are car enthusiasts, even if we don't agree with them.

Just got done reading 7 threads on a diff forum where people wanting hood scoop on base mazda3 hatch and spending $3600 to make hatch look like ms3.....

[robry]

as others have noted, the engine is broken in from the factory. things that aren't, transmission gears/bearings/syncros/limited slip. those all need time to 'break-in' as well as the brakes too.

not a bad idea to just drive it like a normal car for the first 500 or so, then let the modding bug take ahold of you lol

[Noodlesincup]

I had a rmm by 300 miles
fully bolted by 5k miles
Car has never felt better.

[Voltron]

I'm old skool philosophy on how you should break in your car.

Beat on it off the lot. If thats how you plan on driving your car for the time you own it. I punished my speed since day 1, never had an issue. Did my manifold, egr delete and occ at 30k, and my valves were spotless.

As for warranty, that shit went out the window at around 5k.

[Dash08]

I don't know how accurate this is, but engine break in to me changed with new cross-hatching techniques on cylinder walls.

In the 1960's, you had to break in a motor due to the really deep cross-hatching. That shit was like sand paper. Rings needed time to wear the the walls appropriately and seat accordingly. Nowadays, cylinder walls are like glass and you can barely see the cross-hatching marks.

Different ball game now.

[Zalligan]

Originally Posted by Dash08 I don't know how accurate this is, but engine break in to me changed with new cross-hatching techniques on cylinder walls. In the 1960's, you had to break in a motor due to the really deep cross-hatching. That shit was like sand paper. Rings needed time to wear the the walls appropriately and seat accordingly. Nowadays, cylinder walls are like glass and you can barely see the cross-hatching marks. Different ball game now.

Ya, no more "break-in oil" or shit like that.

FWIW I have an uncle that works for a reputable machine shop that builds motors for the big-time offshore race boats. When I had him build the engine for my old Mustang a few years back I asked about break in and he just said "run it like ya stole it"

Don't know how applicable it is to these little jap 4 cylinders though.

[sidekick]

Originally Posted by Dash08 I don't know how accurate this is, but engine break in to me changed with new cross-hatching techniques on cylinder walls. In the 1960's, you had to break in a motor due to the really deep cross-hatching. That shit was like sand paper. Rings needed time to wear the the walls appropriately and seat accordingly. Nowadays, cylinder walls are like glass and you can barely see the cross-hatching marks. Different ball game now.

Not to mention that cylinder walls these days hardly even wear. You're really just trying to seat the rings against the cylinder wall and that just requires some high cylinder pressure. I do agree about breaking-in all of the other parts though. Trans gears, synchros, LSD, bearings, etc. could use a few hundred miles before being beat to within an inch of their life.

[Speed3in215]

damn I got 16K miles and all the mods are in my sig.Had swaggy speed for year exactly. Where do you fools get the cash flow like that to buy parts? no other priorities but the speed? lol

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by Speed3in215 damn I got 16K miles and all the mods are in my sig.Had swaggy speed for year exactly. Where do you fools get the cash flow like that to buy parts? no other priorities but the speed? lol

From what I hear, some people jack big rigs while they are moving.

[Zalligan]

Originally Posted by himurax13 From what I hear, some people jack big rigs while they are moving.

Fastnfurious yo

[90210]

Originally Posted by Zalligan Fastnfurious yo

Its Friday night..I am off to RaceWars for the weekend.

[Twofer]

From my maintenance log.

2012 08-25: 20 miles. Purchased car. 09-13: Cobb accessport. 09-30: 912 miles. Oil change and filter. Mazda OEM. 5.2 quarts of Pennzoil Ultra 5w30. 10-28: Chuckwalla track day. 12-03: 2150 miles. Installed JBR 80d Passenger/Transmission/Rear mounts 12-10: 2222 miles. Installed JBR rear sway bar. Rotated tires. 12-16: Buttonwillow track day. 2013 01-13: 3170 miles. Oil change and filter. Mazda OEM. 5.6 quarts of Pennzoil Ultra 5w30. Less than 5 quarts drained. 01-27: Installed CS SRI and TIP. Autotech HPFP. 02-17: Installed CS box

Test pipe going in this weekend. Next track day at the end of March. Just ticked over 3800 miles.

Do your break in period, then drive that shit dood.

[Zalligan]

Thanks for the feedback fellas. I'm working on racking up some miles and will probably order the SRI next week. Should be around 500 miles by then.

[Speed3in215]

whatever it is I want in!!

[Twofer]

After installing my racepipe today, I can say that another good reason to mod early is that shit won't be rusted up. It's a real pleasure when bolts just... come out.

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by Twofer After installing my racepipe today, I can say that another good reason to mod early is that shit won't be rusted up. It's a real pleasure when bolts just... come out.

That is a good point. Trying to remove a downpipe/O2 sensor of a car with 50, 000 + miles on it can be a bitch.

Sent via oil leak.