NEW MEMBER!!!!
 

Hello guys,

From Milwaukee Wi.
Wanted to introduce myself.
Just recently bought a 2010 Ms3 tech package w/100k miles for 10k. I thought it was a decent buy....
I know the miles are high but the car is actually still really clean so I jumped on it.

So far I have a few quick questions of anyone ca chime in....
1. Fog lights and drls dont work.
Ive checked the fog light fuse - looks good.
Fog light bulbs look good
How can you check the fog light relay or switch?

2. Any major things I should consider replacing right away at 100k? Clutch and tranny feels great still. Engine pulls strong.

3. Why the heck do I see so many mods for standard mazda 3s va speed 3s? Wth is up with that? Serious?....

So far Ive installed Hids, front and rear lips, and a cobb sri intakr and tip. Soon to buy a downpipe, 3" cbe, hpfp, and protune.

I would check your vvt and chain if you don't know if it was done. Sounds like a pretty good deal if the engine is sound. 1st gens sell here for that much.

Welcome. Now start reading nerd.
There is an absolutely insane amount of information here, and the best thing you can do is spending a couple hours reading. Anything we can tell you has already been rehashed and perfected elsewhere.
Start in the new members welcome section (where this post probably will get moved anyways). The stickies there are mandatory reading.
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f511/

1. meh

2. VVT is important to look into as stated. its most often shown with a metallic rattle at start up. not the clicking sound thats your hpfp.
Its worth pulling your spark plugs and inspecting/replacing those. You can learn a lot about the way your car is running by "reading" them. There is plenty of info here on temp and gaping those.
Id change all fluids including transmission if I were you. rotella t6 motor oil and Ford motorcraft trans oil imo.
There are some other obvious things to check as well. Blown struts, failing motor mounts, break pad wear, etc...
Depending on your previous owner, you probably have some carbon build up in your intake manifold . There's a fuckton of information on that here. walnut blasting media is generally the weapon of choice.

3. The speed 3 is vastly different in pretty much every aftermarket way. We have some amazing vendors that make and test parts specifically for the speed 3. learn them and use them.

As per your upgrade path... hpfp first.

Alright a WI-nite. My fam is all in WI. Around Milwaukee and Sheboygan/Two Rivers. Welcome!

Like others have said. Read up. All info you could pretty much already need is around the forum. Use Google for advance searches by typing in "site:www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum" then your search term and you'll get pretty good results.

I can't believe you got a 2010 for 10K... My first thought was, wth is wrong with it?? lol But if nothing and its not salvage, wow what a great deal. Congrats!

Welcome James, for your mods you could do the CBE first too if you wanted. Just gotta do HPFP before an IC or DP, good luck.

This is not necessarily true, I had cobb Intake/TIP and a Freek OTS+ after I first got my car and fueling could not keep up (granted it was during the colder months here, but still...), even with just the intake/tip so I had to get the HPFP internals in there ASAP or continue risking ZZB.

Don't remember if OP mentioned an accessport or not, but you should get one of those along with a proper tune and HPFP internals, and then continue along swapping out go fast bits...

EDIT: Re-read the first post and I see you mention a protune, not sure of the origin, but you should get in touch with one of the trusted tuners from the community (*personal recommendation - absolutely can't go wrong with a Freektune from Justin) who know how to safely make power on these cars and they will help you safely eek out every last drop of fun from your new toy

Welcome, the miles aren't too bad, my husband just bought a 2010 speed w/tech for $8,800. 109k miles. Almost fully bolted. Good luck and happy spending!

Perhaps with the tune it was running leaner than without? I used to live on Long Island and didn't get the HPFP until I bought DP and IC. But yea I guess it you had to choose would be safer to go HPFP first.

I do believe the Freek OTS tune definitely did contribute to the lean issue, but hpfp internals are so necessary to make any kind of power with this car that I always suggest getting them as one of the first mods... Always good to cover your ass right from the get go too