I got mine today, but I was out of town all weekend, so it could have gotten here yesterday.

Any update on whether the offset coupler solves the fitment issue on the poor connection behind the radiator?

I'm planning on trying to get this installed this Thursday using the extra couplers I purchased. Will report back.

The hump coupler really didn't help a lot. All it really did was allow a bit more flexibility at that joint.

Interested to see the results. Where did you find a 20 degree bend?

I got a 30-degree and two hump couplers.

TR6 installation with Treadstone piping
 

Got the TR6 and Treadstone piping on last night. Using the 30* coupler to join the two hot pipes and one hump coupler on the cold side of the IC I was able to get satisfactory connections everywhere. Here are my notes:

FMIC mounting:
============
The inlet/outlet of the TR6 sits about half an inch lower than than they do on the TR8 when installed with the Treadstone crashbar based on the pictures I've seen and comparing them to how mine installed. Getting them higher is limited by the OEM crashbar as the top of my TR6 is basically hitting the bottom of the OEM crashbar as installed, so you can go ahead snug up the mounts as high as you can get them right at the start.

Cold side piping:
============

I started working from the cold side, connecting the reducing coupler to the TB and getting it clamped, which was a bit of a PITA. I ended up undoing the t-bolt clamp completely and then fighting to get it back together and tightening it in its final resting place. Next I inserted the cold pipe into the coupler and placed the clamp (again by undoing it completely and putting it back together in place), but left it loose. You'll want to make sure that the clamps are placed in such as way that the bolts don't interfere with, or have a chance of rubbing, the TB coolant lines.

Down at the FMIC, the cold pipe does not line up so some muscle and the hump coupler were used to make the connection. With the cold pipe clamp at the TB loose enough to have some play, but not loose enough to come out of the coupler, I was able to pull the pipe down to line up with the IC outlet. I highly recommend slipping the coupler all the way onto the cold pipe and then sliding off and over the IC outlet when it is lined up as the distance between the pipe and outlet is small, making it difficult to attach the coupler to one and then slide the other in, if that makes sense. The hump coupler provided some extra play here (and helps make a better connection IMHO), but I think it would be possible to just use the coupler from the kit.

Originally I installed the t-bolt clamps with the bolt at the bottom facing the front of the car. This caused a problem getting the bumper back on because the bolt was hitting. I flipped the clamps over with the bolt at the top, facing forward and it posed no issues with the bumper. At this point I tightened all clamps on the cold side.

Hot side piping:
============

The 30* coupler made all the difference in the world here and I would recommend everyone to get one before attempting this install; perhaps Treadstone or @RPM; might even consider adding one to the kit, at least for the TR6, although I believe it will benefit even the TR8 customers getting the pipes to "align" for a good connection. I started by attaching the 30* coupler to the end of the upper hot pipe and clamping it loosely. This took some trial and error to get the angle of the coupler to where I wanted it for connecting to the lower hot pipe. Once I got that coupler oriented properly I loosely attached the hot pipe to the turbo and placed the bolt on the stud for the pipe mount location to keep it from popping off. * I used the washer and rubber grommet from the TMIC underneath of the hot pipe mount, but it was not obvious that I should; I think it is better this way.

From under the car, I used a ratcheting wrench to snug up the clamp on the top hot pipe. The extra length of the 30* coupler provided plenty of adjustability to get the lower hot pipe aligned and connected to the IC and it presented no issues at all. Again, at the IC, place the bolts of the clamps at the top facing forward.

Total time for install was about 4 hours, but I took my time, had to readjust the clamps at the TB before attaching the coolant lines and I had to remove and install the bumper one extra time to reorient the clamps at the IC. Hopefully my errors will save someone else some time.

TL;DR :: At a bare minimum get a 30* coupler for the upper to lower hot pipe connection.

Thank you immensely for that!

Looks decent. Will defiantly keep this kit in mind

I'm still waiting on my replacement pipe... weeks now

HAS IT BEEN TWO WEEKS YET?


OH MAN I CRACK MYSELF UP

Oh, I forgot to mention, I used the tap they sent and that all worked out.

Sent while Stratified.

You never got it? You should have PM me. I'll call them tomorrow.

Do you have a link to the right coupler?

Not at the moment, but someone posted it in this thread somewhat recently.

Sent while Stratified.

It was this guy

I talked to Treadstone (Tony, and Jason, the owner) regarding the hot-pipe coupler issue and they have ordered a batch of 20-degree couplers that they will ship to anyone who has ordered a kit and requests one.

They are having them custom-made, since 20-degree couplers aren't easy to come by, so it will probably be somewhere between 3-5 weeks before they have them in hand to ship out.

If you want one, shoot me a PM with your order number and I'll put you on the list.

Thought I give you guys a bit of info on my setup. I ordered up the TR8L and I already had the cobb FMIC setup. The TR8L you have to drill new holes to accomodate the larger version of the TR8 (takes like 5mins).
Attachment 184597

The passenger side I drilled about 5/8" to the left:
Attachment 184598

The driver side I drilled about 2" to the right:
Attachment 184599

With the cobb piping, they have a bracket that bolts down where the TMIC would be so it provides little movement to adjust (at the same time it prevents the hot pipe moving around while driving)
Attachment 184601

All buttoned up, I would say it's offset to the driver side maybe 1" but I don't notice it.
Attachment 184600

I wanna give props to JBR and RPM with helping my order. Both were great with communicating and will have my business as long as they provide the great customer service!

Now that all has been figured out with the kit and I assume the modifications have been made on your kits, how is everyone liking the kit?
I am in love with my kit.

@pdc001; The tr8l is for low boost applications not high boost like our cars run. It will still get the job done just not as efficiently.

Any update on the couplers?

Mine worked with the straight coupler with zero issues, but I will admit, the 20 degree coupler makes it a lot easier to install and gives a little more flexibility.

I see I'm not the only one who's still waiting.... we got fucked on this so called "deal"

Couplers are on the way to the 4 guys who requested them.

Just keep in mind that RPM has been doing a pretty good job cleaning up the mess created by Treadstone. Kudo's to them for putting you guys first.

Are the newer kits having issues as well or was this just the first batch?

Donny has been doing everything in his power to make this right. I don't think we ever could have anticipated the issues that arose.

It is equally as frustrating for us as well. RPM is also a customer in this situation.

Forgive me if I misinterpreted what you said.

Did anything ever become of this?

Not that i've heard of, but I'm more than happy with @RPM; customer service. They have gone above and beyond what is expected of them.

The only other thing I'm considering changing with my kit it to switch to their special worm clamps with the spring and thread protector thing since I'm not a fan of T-bolts.

Treadstone never offered anything other than sending out taps, bungs, and couplers to people. I know you tested the 30-degree coupler, which ultimately led to them ordering the 20-degree couplers, so I'd be happy to offer you a GC or discount on anything you need.

I was going to order this kit tuesday but now I am scared lol. I cant have my daily driver down.

No need to worry. They have corrected the issues. Those being the meth bung and the new silicone.

So no fitment issues with the crash bar or other pipes not lining up? If so I am in. I am installing a ewg gtx3071 and dont need any headaches.

This was posted by Donny a while ago. While that was less of an issue, they have addressed that as well.

Ok so I will purchase through you since I am sure you have all the updated kits. Besides the fact that your price beats everyone elses advertised. Thanks for the help.

You'll definitely get the latest kit with all of the issues addressed. At this point, there should be no more issues with this kit.

Just a quick update since I finally got to install mine this weekend. I tapped using the supplied tap from TRE, no problems there. The crash bar holes had to be drilled out but once done no issue. I also had the 20 degree coupler from treadstone, which in my case didn't help at all. I had previously ordered a hump hose just in case, and that seemed to work much better. Just supplying some pics for reference.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04...f30ba54e11.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04...24c25aa414.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04...105089ac39.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04...1e629ddfcc.jpg

I am glad you were able to get it all installed and it is working well!

I am still unsure how it fit so well the first time for me. I had the first ever kit too.
But I am glad everyone is starting to get the issues either fixed or figure out.

SEeing that picture made me question whether I tightened those clamps after I took the picture.

I did not.

Fixed that in office attire in the parking lot before driving home lol.

Just so everyone knows. I just got one in yesterday and the crash bar still doesn't fit.
Wish i just bought the piping and core and got the jbr crash.