New Treadstone FMIC Kit

[jeopardy98]

Yes and when you flip those brackets you pull the IC out and the hot pipe to hot pipe connection is off considerably. About 4 people in this thread alone have had the same issue. Not sure how you don't see this as a problem. I made it work, yes, but it fits like crap.

[RPM]

Originally Posted by jeopardy98 Yes and when you flip those brackets you pull the IC out and the hot pipe to hot pipe connection is off considerably. About 4 people in this thread alone have had the same issue. Not sure how you don't see this as a problem. I made it work, yes, but it fits like crap.

So you're saying there wouldn't be a fitment issue if the brackets were installed "backwards," but if you pull the core out, then the fitment is poor? Personally, I haven't seen it and I've gotten some conflicting information. Provide me with detailed pictures and I'll take them to Treadstone.

[neganox]

The bracket holes need to be oval as well or centered.. or something. If you reverse the brackets, the core sticks out at the top and then has to be angled back into the piping at the bottom. It's never flush.

[jeopardy98]

Pictures have been posted. I'll post some more when I pull my bumper again. It has been stated that this kit fits like a bag of dicks and other claims. I've tried to highlight the good and the bad of this kit but for a bolt on kit it needs much more work. It should never have been released in its current configuration. @RPM; I have no issues with you. You offered us a great deal and are trying to help. I appreciate all of that. I'm just disappointed with Treadstone. Their kit and their lip service which they claim to call customer service.

[RPM]

Originally Posted by jeopardy98 Pictures have been posted. I'll post some more when I pull my bumper again. It has been stated that this kit fits like a bag of dicks and other claims. I've tried to highlight the good and the bad of this kit but for a bolt on kit it needs much more work. It should never have been released in its current configuration. @RPM; I have no issues with you. You offered us a great deal and are trying to help. I appreciate all of that. I'm just disappointed with Treadstone. Their kit and their lip service which they claim to call customer service.

I just read back through the entire thread and I don't see any pictures of this particular issue. I've seen all of the statements, but I can't do anything to help without pictures.

I know you're not mad at us, but we want you to be happy, so we're trying out best to help. Yes, there shouldn't have been any issues, but since there are, let's get them fixed!

The issues I brought up with Treadstone yesterday were addressed today. If I can figure out what the problem is and what steps need to be taken to resolve it, I can continue to help you guys out. I'm not sure what sort of tolerances we're looking at here without good pictures. Does flipping the brackets pull the intercooler out too far? If the brackets were installed so that they line up with the crash bar, but the TR8 mounting hole was on the other side (further from the radiator), would that potentially solve both problems?

[kidlifecrisis]

Good stuff rpm, really gives good feels that you guys are working with tre towards resolution.

I would also like to request pics of this spot where people claim there should have been a 30* coupler or something, as mine isn't going on for a while, and zero pictures exist of it.

[jeopardy98]

Originally Posted by RPM I just read back through the entire thread and I don't see any pictures of this particular issue. I've seen all of the statements, but I can't do anything to help without pictures. I know you're not mad at us, but we want you to be happy, so we're trying out best to help. Yes, there shouldn't have been any issues, but since there are, let's get them fixed! The issues I brought up with Treadstone yesterday were addressed today. If I can figure out what the problem is and what steps need to be taken to resolve it, I can continue to help you guys out. I'm not sure what sort of tolerances we're looking at here without good pictures. Does flipping the brackets pull the intercooler out too far? If the brackets were installed so that they line up with the crash bar, but the TR8 mounting hole was on the other side (further from the radiator), would that potentially solve both problems?

First, thank you. Second, yes. If the brackets were flipped and lined up with the crash bar but the holes were drilled on the opposite side it would probably fix the issue completely. That's what I wanted to do was flip them around but push the IC out about half of what it is now. It could potentially fix the hot pipe to hot pipe issue as well but I can't be positive. It was pretty far off.

I played with it about an hour and a half trying to get it. I loosened everything took it apart put it back, tried again, went from the top with a coupler attached, went from the bottom with a coupler attached, went from the top without a coupler, bottom without etc. I tried every combination I could and I was finally able to get the pipe in the coupler but to get the clamp around the coupler I had to take it completely apart and wrap it around. Then when it was tightened enough that I hoped it wouldn't leak it wouldn't stay all the way on the coupler because of the odd angle and bead on the pipe inside. Here is the best picture I can provide. I know it doesn't look awful in this picture but it is pretty bad and it took a lot of work and time to make it even work like this. I still worry it is going to blow any day.

[kidlifecrisis]

Thanks dude, that's pretty much what I visualized but had no way to confirm.

[neganox]

Originally Posted by jeopardy98 First, thank you. Second, yes. If the brackets were flipped and lined up with the crash bar but the holes were drilled on the opposite side it would probably fix the issue completely. That's what I wanted to do was flip them around but push the IC out about half of what it is now. It could potentially fix the hot pipe to hot pipe issue as well but I can't be positive. It was pretty far off. I played with it about an hour and a half trying to get it. I loosened everything took it apart put it back, tried again, went from the top with a coupler attached, went from the bottom with a coupler attached, went from the top without a coupler, bottom without etc. I tried every combination I could and I was finally able to get the pipe in the coupler but to get the clamp around the coupler I had to take it completely apart and wrap it around. Then when it was tightened enough that I hoped it wouldn't leak it wouldn't stay all the way on the coupler because of the odd angle and bead on the pipe inside. Here is the best picture I can provide. I know it doesn't look awful in this picture but it is pretty bad and it took a lot of work and time to make it even work like this. I still worry it is going to blow any day.

I'll acquire a saw bit, drill those brackets out and report back tomorrow evening.

[chaser27]

Originally Posted by jeopardy98 Here is the best picture I can provide. I know it doesn't look awful in this picture but it is pretty bad and it took a lot of work and time to make it even work like this. I still worry it is going to blow any day.

I know that picture :-)

[jeopardy98]

Yep. Thanks!

[RPM]

Originally Posted by jeopardy98 First, thank you. Second, yes. If the brackets were flipped and lined up with the crash bar but the holes were drilled on the opposite side it would probably fix the issue completely. That's what I wanted to do was flip them around but push the IC out about half of what it is now. It could potentially fix the hot pipe to hot pipe issue as well but I can't be positive. It was pretty far off. I played with it about an hour and a half trying to get it. I loosened everything took it apart put it back, tried again, went from the top with a coupler attached, went from the bottom with a coupler attached, went from the top without a coupler, bottom without etc. I tried every combination I could and I was finally able to get the pipe in the coupler but to get the clamp around the coupler I had to take it completely apart and wrap it around. Then when it was tightened enough that I hoped it wouldn't leak it wouldn't stay all the way on the coupler because of the odd angle and bead on the pipe inside. Here is the best picture I can provide. I know it doesn't look awful in this picture but it is pretty bad and it took a lot of work and time to make it even work like this. I still worry it is going to blow any day.

Okay. I have a message out to one of the guys who they used for test fitting to see how his bracket is mounted. If putting the hole on the other side fixes the issue, it seems that may have been what they intended all along and perhaps someone just screwed up the drawings or jigs or something and got it backwards. I'll try to figure that out when I talk to them on Monday.

Now onto this issue... First, I know how difficult it is to get to that spot, so I know that's part of the problem. I'm assuming you put this hose on before the lower pipe was attached to the intercooler? Is it even possible for the two pipes to line up perfectly (regardless of the intercooler connection), or would the lower pipe be pushed too far forward, such that it would hit on the radiator mount?

As it is, it looks like a 30-degree coupler could be used, as mentioned by @Mike@Stratified. I'm anxious to see what @neganox comes up with. Be sure to get some pictures. This will be good information to go to Treadstone with.

We agree that you guys shouldn't have to be doing this work on Treadstone's behalf, but we're appreciative that you're willing to. Once we get this figured out, we will push for Treadstone to compensate the guys putting in the time to figure this out. And even if they won't, we'll at least provide some gift certificates or something.

[jeopardy98]

Yes it is possible to get them to line up straight but it will not connect to the IC that way. The pipe needs just a little more bend or a different coupler needs to be used. Part of the issue as well is the mounting point on top of the IM forces that pipe into a fixed position.

[ImGryssLOL]

I will be taking my bumper back off next week to put on the new "correct" crash bar and I will get some very detailed pictures of all the fitment issues I've had. I'm going to uninstall the kit and start over from square one and do a proper walkthrough for everyone.

Those being.

turbo to hotpipe coupler
hot pipe to hot pipe interference with a/c compressor and poor alignment
core hitting a/c condensor
crash bar sucking giant dicks.
my meth bung fix (this also double pisses me off because I planned on using that for meth now it's just another potential boost leak...

[neganox]

Alrighty.

So I took my bumper off to fix the intercooler touching the radiator. I ended up elongating the intercooler support holes a bit AND flipping the brackets around afterwards. This allowed for the intercooler to be about 1-2cm away from whatever that tank thing is on the end of the radiator.

My intercooler still required being shifted about an inch to the drivers side, thus still only allowing me to utilize 1 bolt for the bracket to bar holes on the crash bar.

Pics attached.

[jeopardy98]

Did this fix the issue of the poor fitting hot pipe connection to the inlet and to each other? Thanks for posting these up.

[neganox]

Originally Posted by jeopardy98 Did this fix the issue of the poor fitting hot pipe connection to the inlet and to each other? Thanks for posting these up.

Oddly enough, I didn't have that issue with my kit. I used lube on the pipes and hoses so I could move and twist everything around a bit before tightening all of the clamps.

[jeopardy98]

That's strange. I twisted it and turned it every which way. I couldn't make it work.

[Easter Bunny]

Originally Posted by neganox Alrighty. So I took my bumper off to fix the intercooler touching the radiator. I ended up elongating the intercooler support holes a bit AND flipping the brackets around afterwards. This allowed for the intercooler to be about 1-2cm away from whatever that tank thing is on the end of the radiator. My intercooler still required being shifted about an inch to the drivers side, thus still only allowing me to utilize 1 bolt for the bracket to bar holes on the crash bar. Pics attached.

It's tough to tell for certain but it kinda looks like the mounting points on the core are not centered, would it be possible to flip the core and change the way it fits relative to the radiator?

[RPM]

Originally Posted by neganox My intercooler still required being shifted about an inch to the drivers side, thus still only allowing me to utilize 1 bolt for the bracket to bar holes on the crash bar.

Why were you required to shift it? Clearance? To line up the pipes? To center it?

[neganox]

Originally Posted by RPM Why were you required to shift it? Clearance? To line up the pipes? To center it?

I'm not sure. It could be because I'm using a throttle body spacer. Regardless the pipes and core would not have lined up on the passenger side.

Edit: I can't read. It was to line up the core outlets and pipes/actually make them fit together properly. Forcefully moving the pipes around to the core would have resulted in the core butting up against the radiator again.

[neganox]

Originally Posted by Easter Bunny It's tough to tell for certain but it kinda looks like the mounting points on the core are not centered, would it be possible to flip the core and change the way it fits relative to the radiator?

I looked into that originally but yes the mounting points are in the center. Im just good at taking optically misleading pictures.

[kidlifecrisis]

@dockinstation; told me many of his couplers needed trimming, is it possible any of these problems could have been caused by bottoming out the pipes in the junctions? Just spitting in the wind here...

[Mike@Stratified]

I didn't trim any of the couplers supplied in the kit and don't see how doing so would help my situation. I've ordered the 30* coupler and a couple of hump couplers and will have another go at this when they get to me. Unfortunately that probably won't be this week

[dockinstation]

Originally Posted by kidlifecrisis @dockinstation; told me many of his couplers needed trimming, is it possible any of these problems could have been caused by bottoming out the pipes in the junctions? Just spitting in the wind here...

The one of main concern was the 90 bend at the top. Way to big.

[ImGryssLOL]

Originally Posted by dockinstation The one of main concern was the 90 bend at the top. Way to big.

My turbo hotpipe coupler is the same size on both ends. LOL

[JgamB]

I'm impressed with @RPM; bending over backward as a reseller for a problem that isn't theirs. I didn't get to buy my JBR piping through you due to the timeliness of the release, but I certainly will once it's available.

[RPM]

So I finally got a chance to have a conversation with @Mx52star regarding the fitment of his kit, since he drives the car they've used to test fit all of this. Here's what I learned...

Regarding the crash bar:
His crash bar shape, alignment, holes, etc. are all the same as everyone else. So, as mentioned before, I believe the solution here is simply to put in all of the lower bolts without tightening them down, then slide the bar to the left, put in the top bolts, then tighten everything down.

Regarding the intercooler brackets:
They are also the same as everyone else and they were installed flush with the crash bar. The difference I see here between his install pictures and the ones posted by @neganox and @ImGryssLOL is that his intercooler is perfectly parallel to the radiator, so even though it's pushed back, it doesn't interfere with anything (SEE PICTURE 1). The other guys had problems because their intercooler was pulled forward at the bottom, causing the top to push back into the cylindrical filter in front of the radiator. The key here seems to be to hang the intercooler first and ensure that it remains parallel throughout the rest of the installation.

Regarding the hot pipe alignment:
This is a problem on his kit, as well (SEE PICTURE 2). He said he installed the hose on the top pipe, clamped it down, put the top pipe into place, then installed the bottom pipe. He got it to work, as some of you have, but it seems that they should have provided a silicone hose with a slight bend, rather than the straight one. A 20 or 30-degree coupler, or possibly even a hump coupler, here would probably alleviate these issues. I looked around for some 30-degree couplers, but they seem hard to come by. @Mike@Stratified said he ordered one, so maybe he can chime in regarding where he sourced it.

[JgamB]

Originally Posted by RPM A 20 or 30-degree coupler, or possibly even a hump coupler, here would probably alleviate these issues. I looked around for some 30-degree couplers, but they seem hard to come by. @Mike@Stratified said he ordered one, so maybe he can chime in regarding where he sourced it.

Silicone 30

[Mike@Stratified]

Originally Posted by JgamB Silicone 30

That's the place.

[Mx52star]

I have 1 hump, 20 degree, and 30 degree coupling headed my way. I will keep you guys updated on how they fit.

[jack_hammer]

do you really want to add a hump in the air flow, if avoidable?

[Mx52star]

Originally Posted by jack_hammer do you really want to add a hump in the air flow, if avoidable?

There is a small hump there currently due to the misalignment. All a small hump coupling will do is create a little flexibility to mate the two pipes better. It will not create enough turbulence in the coupling to cause a disruption in air flow through the system.
However, the 20 or 30 degree coupling will make for a cleaner finish.

[kidlifecrisis]

Where did you source the 20 degree? I only see the hump (sold out in black) and the 30 degree

[jeopardy98]

Originally Posted by RPM So I finally got a chance to have a conversation with @Mx52star regarding the fitment of his kit, since he drives the car they've used to test fit all of this. Here's what I learned... Regarding the crash bar: His crash bar shape, alignment, holes, etc. are all the same as everyone else. So, as mentioned before, I believe the solution here is simply to put in all of the lower bolts without tightening them down, then slide the bar to the left, put in the top bolts, then tighten everything down. Regarding the intercooler brackets: They are also the same as everyone else and they were installed flush with the crash bar. The difference I see here between his install pictures and the ones posted by @neganox and @ImGryssLOL is that his intercooler is perfectly parallel to the radiator, so even though it's pushed back, it doesn't interfere with anything (SEE PICTURE 1). The other guys had problems because their intercooler was pulled forward at the bottom, causing the top to push back into the cylindrical filter in front of the radiator. The key here seems to be to hang the intercooler first and ensure that it remains parallel throughout the rest of the installation. Regarding the hot pipe alignment: This is a problem on his kit, as well (SEE PICTURE 2). He said he installed the hose on the top pipe, clamped it down, put the top pipe into place, then installed the bottom pipe. He got it to work, as some of you have, but it seems that they should have provided a silicone hose with a slight bend, rather than the straight one. A 20 or 30-degree coupler, or possibly even a hump coupler, here would probably alleviate these issues. I looked around for some 30-degree couplers, but they seem hard to come by. @Mike@Stratified said he ordered one, so maybe he can chime in regarding where he sourced it.

Thanks for the update. I was able to get the hot pipe hooked up by doing exactly as you described. It was the only way to make it work. Also, the IC hanging straight down would not work on my car. It hit that tube on the radiator at the bottom unless I flipped the brackets so that they were not flush with the crash bar. I tried it tilted out, tilted in, straight down, and all those configurations with the brackets flipped both directions. On my car it will not fit with the brackets flipped the other way without hitting that tube at the bottom.

I have been running it with no issues as of yet. I keep waiting for that coupler to spring a leak but it hasn't yet. My main concern is that a little more time and research could have avoided all of these issues. It looks like we can fix all of these issues if we alter some brackets and buy a different coupler and trim one of the couplers. The point is we shouldn't have to do all of that.

A huge thanks to @RPM; for working with all of us on this. I'm not only turned off by the poor quality of the kit that Treadstone put out but way more disappointed with the owner's customer service (or complete lack of).

To be fair, the IC does seem to be of really good quality and flows a lot better than my TMIC. I even had to have my PT boost scaled back a bit because I was hitting 10psi with about 1/4 throttle.

[RPM]

That's weird. I wonder why there are differences between the clearance on your two vehicles. My guess is that the cylinder in front of the radiator is positioned differently on different vehicles. They should have left more than 1/8" of clearance in their original design. At least ovalling out the brackets or flipping them helps, I suppose.

They did test fit it on the original vehicle multiple times, but obviously they needed to do more than one. That, and they should have noticed the pipe misalignment issue without me having to point it out to them.

I don't know what's up with Treadstone's customer service when it comes to end users. It's really odd. They listen to me and when I talk to them, they seem to want to make sure that you guys are taken care of, but when you call in directly, they act stupid. It's frustrating, but at least they're listening to someone.

The IC itself is quality. That's been known for ages. The materials used to make the piping and the finish are all great, too. And if you can get it installed, it does perform. If it fit better and they hadn't screwed up the bungs, I'm certain everyone would be praising it right now. My goal at this point is to get them to take care of as many of these issues as they reasonably can.

[kbz0129]

If you are going to buy a crash bar I suggest waiting for Jbr's. I bought the treadstone bar and it doesn't have the tow hook and has some minor fitment issues. Not to mention Jbr's is cheaper.

[kbz0129]

Disregard, crash bar is for genpu.

[dockinstation]

Has anyone got some type of replacement and or re tapped? Anything??

[Mike@Stratified]

Originally Posted by dockinstation Has anyone got some type of replacement and or re tapped? Anything??

I got a tap and new bung plug in the mail yesterday.

Sent while Stratified.