newb ??? i swear i searched
 

Ive been doing alot of reading on the forums as well as various websites and companies that produce performance parts for the mazdaspeed3. My question is, when is the correct time to go for the hpfp or replace the internals? Ive been seeing alot of ppl saying that they recommend it as a 1st mod and others saying as long as you dont go to a stage 2 tune with a DP, its ok. Is it safe to run the following without doing so (specifically Corksport products aside from the cobb AP and forge BPV):

-SRI / TIP
-CBE
-AP
-Recirculating BPV

Sorry in advance if there is a thread in regards to this, I searched and couldnt find anything that really touches on it or goes into why/why not its needed. Thanks! :crucified:

Just get it! Let me know when you do and I'll install it for you bro.

:popcorn:

Genpu is a hit or miss with those mods. Some are ok with intake, tp, ap (stage1 of course), but others need it with only an intake. Might as well grab them asap if you plan on modding anyway

Car is on order, wont be here until later in the year (its a 13). Id like to start ordering product now so when Im ready, I have it. You out here on LI?

appreciated, thank you for the advice :fing02:

no crucifying if the dude says he attempted to search

OP where are you located

fuel pumps are hit and miss, some hold, most dont. better to get it for peace of mind

mine failed with an SRI and tune.....6 months after the tune was done

Lido Beach, NYC/LI Nator Install day HQ

Your fine, just keep it stage 1. OTS stage 1 maps are made to work with stock internals. Monitor fuel pressure every once and awhile to be sure, but you will be good.

thank you sir

awesome, looking forward to meeting the locals


located in eastern long island, thank you for your input

A 13 huh?? Tell me more about that?? Any changes??

to prevent future rapeage of your anus

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...st-read-99499/
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...eed-3-a-61693/

few small cosmetic things and a redone navi, cant really break the ice as I havent saw it announced it

Well since everone is being so nice....
I was running stage 1 with intake and tip and my fuel pump couldn't keep up. I took my tune off and went back to stock.

Your first mod however should be a donation mod.

ur in good hands with this guy

Found my own answer.. I just searched the webz like 2 weeks ago and didnt find anything..


New for 2013


The 18-inch wheels gain a gunmetal finish, and the side mirrors and rear lower valance have a black finish. A USB port now comes standard, and a Technology Package features a touch-screen navigation system, HD Radio, text message playback and voice-activated reply, and Pandora integration.

that is all correct info from what Ive saw, but there are a few other small things

OP, first donate a few bucks to this amazing forum. You'll get access to the VIP for sale section. So many parts can be had for much cheaper than brand new.

On stage 1 mods (intake, cobb stage 1 map), you'll be okay w/o internals. However some guys have had their pumps take a crap on those mods. Its all about peace of mind. I didn't upgrade my FP untill I went stage 2 with a downpipe and I had no problems.

i will do and thank you

I'm a noob too (to this car and forum) but based on what I'm reading, and taking the better safe than sorry philosophy, I'm just going to order everything at the same time. SRI/TIP, HPFP internals, and AP, all in one shot.

Ill most likely be doing the same, plus the CBE / BPV

Don't bother with the BPV, Money better spent on a RSB, for teh twisties!

also dont bother with the cbe, no performance gains until you are deeper in the hole

better off saving some cash and just getting a testpipe

I'll probably do a CBE at some point even knowing it makes no power. Just because the previous owner has some janky ass Flowmaster setup on it. Doesn't sound bad at all actually but it bugs me nonetheless.

so get rid of your CBE!!!!

also I wouldn't start doing anything until COBB releases the software for the 2013. Enjoy the car in stock form for a little.

ahem i should clarify, no gains until you are toying with 300+whp

and now im reading even that may be wrong (somewhere around 440 supposedly)

btw your exhaust sounds like shit :D

shit. I thought it sounded good. :squintfinger:

damn nice a 2013!



:;;edit wrong copy and paste

Of course the cock suckers couldn't do this from the beginning, or even by 2012. Just my fucking luck.

same here, newb looking for answers. i just upgraded my intake to a corksport Stage 2 SRI and their CBE. how can i tell if you internals cant keep up? what happens when they fail?

Get an AP, or Dashdaq, or at the very least if you have an Android phone you can download the torque app and get a OBDII transmitter to monitor.

Torque — OBD2 Performance and Diagnostics for your Vehicle

buy an ultragauge, AP, dashhawk, scan gauge.. something to monitor fuel pressure. during hard acceleration and especially at WOT, fuel pressure should be at or above 1600 psi. if it drops below that, it's time for internals..

if you wait to experience symptoms, you risk blowing your engine. monitoring is the only surefire way to catch failing internals before they cause catastrophic engine failure. an ultragauge is $70 and will allow you to watch your fuel pressure, if you're cheap like me. otherwise, a dashhawk lets you record data, which is nice.

so $70 gets me a ultraguage, and that should allow me to monitor my fuel pressure and as long as that stays at or above 1600 psi i should be ok? if its below that i should get them replaced asap?

thanks for the help

dashhawk cant pick up FP on you pu's

anything below 1500psi get it swapped


safe to drive just no WOT until you install the new pump

That is correct. Or you could just get them replaced and not have to worry about blowing your motor. That is what I am doing. Also from there all you need is a $100 test pipe and you can run a stage 2 map on the AP :).

Unbelievable, not one mention of a motor mount.

OP, your very first mod should be an aftermarket rear motor mount.

That's your starting point.

No point in having more power when your motor is doing back flips in between shifts.

maybe the genpee's finally saw some corrective action after the failings of genwon and genpu?
























































pfffft what the fuck am i sayin

thanks guys, just ordered an Ultraguage. ill take it easy on the car until it comes in so i can see what im dealing with. when i get my next xheck in ill take a look at the internals

Thought the same thing. RMM first, only $100.00 and 20 minutes of time if new to it. Once you hear that bang of the engine against your firewall when shifting hard or FFS you will understand.

Also do your mods in increments, especially power mods
1) because if you have problem codes or power loss after 1 mod you can narrow it down by back tracing your steps easier if you only did one thing

2) You will get used to and tired of the power made with each mod and always want more, If you are like me. So, do one and enjoy the butt dyno for awhile until you are used to it then do something else and so on, and so on. Then you will want another Car/Platform and the fun/learning begins all over again UNTIL YOU DIE!!!

@JP@edgeautosport.com