Newly ordered parts..
 

Before I press the order button, I have a quick question.. I have chose the CS catless dp, CS racepipe, CS CBE, CS stage II SRI with the TIP, and the forge bpv. (CS lowering springs also, no performance but meh.) Will I have to upgrade my fuel pump with just these mods? I'm not planning on doing anything else after this as far as performance.

yes its and you really should or should i say need a tune for that to be called safe to a lot of people. but with that dp/rp combo your fp will not keep up.

How will you ever know if you have no way to monitor it? Get an Ap and internals with a custom tune ttake full advantage.

I have a sweet combo on fuel pump internals and AP let me know if you end up going that route :)

its shocking how many times i read "do i need fuel pump internals with my downpipe?"

Im a noob to this forum but this question gets so annoying. It is asked everyday. Read and search!!!! If you searched you would know the damn question.

Put the downpipe and test pipe on without an ap and internals and let us know what happened.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

Get in touch with Eric, you should have internals and AP before anything else. You might be able to get away with an intake/tip without internals for a while. But, you definately cannot go catless TBE on stock internals. You need an AP with all of the stuff you listed or you are going to get boost spikes and possible new window in your block. Read up and donate man, you actually got off really easy here. Because this has been beaten to death.

I appreciate the quick responses. I figured I may have to, but I had to make sure! So, from what I get from both of you is AP with tune along with internals should be my priority @ this point. I've look at AutoTech in the past, I hear they are pretty good.
I really want to have a good sound, but that will have to wait. I'd rather be "safe" than "loud."


I have a $2,000 limit for now, and I have decided to go with what people are saying with AP, and FP.. That's roughly $900-1000. WWJD with $1,000 next?

I apologize, I'm on my phone @ work (offshore) and it's a bit slow. I got frustrated with trying to load posts, so this was my last resort. I know what I did is frowned upon, but I was surprised with the replies. I'm just trying to get a decent start with the money I have at the moment.

fucking noobs, glad you prioritized what you wanted to do instead of your OP

@Rmichel2 email me since you cant pm me at eric.trujillo@edgeautosport.com

With the extra 1000 you can do intake, top mount intercooler, and dp full catless if you wanted :)

I just got off the phone with a local performance shop (South Side Performance) in the Houston, Texas area. I ordered the AP with a tune after install($100 off tune since I got it with them), AutoTech HPFP, Cobb intake with TIP, CNT DP, and a RMM for roughly $1600. Labor will be $90/hour. Drop it off next Tuesday, and will pick it up that night. A little over my budget, but I'm sure I'll be MORE than satisfied with the outcome. Total price should be $24-2500 for parts/labor/tax. Opinions?

Get the parts. Go to a NATOR install day. Get an e-tune from one of the tuners here. Save $600 ($900 labor - (e-tune + beer)).

Get with your local NATOR and see if your shop knows how to tune Speeds. I searched them on the forum, it looks like they've got got a pretty good reputation. But, you would be suprised at the number of "pro shops" that don't have a fucking clue how to properly tune these things. I would suggest the e-tuners on MSF, because they have a ton of experience on this platform. Some pro shops think the same rules that apply to Subies and Evos work for Speeds too and they don't. If you are wanting to see what I'm talking about see this thread. Good luck!

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...victim-126794/

edit: @mrmonk7663, do you know anything about this shop? I know you're pretty involved with NATOR Houston.

Dude if your in Houston, theyre are plenty of capable peeps here to install that shiznit, matter of fact we just had an install day and a ton of peeps showed up. Save your money and get an etune, im not gonna throw out prices of some but guarantee theyre wayyy cheaper than a dyno tune. Wait till your fully bolted and then get a dyno tune. Order you shit from edge bc i bet theyre cheaper than anywhere else, get the parts and hit up the houston thread to lay down what you have and need installed.


http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...4/index78.html

yes support those that support this forum and community. Yes it is nice to support your local business to, but you do have guys out there that are more then capable to help you out then per said pro tuning shop. You then can uses said saved money to other things also such as brakes suspension etc. You can go fast as hell but if you can not stop or turn quick enough or put the power down right then all the money on the go fast shit went down the hole.

you can install a the SRI and TIP in your garage with practically a 10mm deep socket wrench and a phillips screwdriver over your lunch break and the RMM is 3 simple nuts.

you shouldve went with EdgeAutosports with the AP and internals.

Thank you guys for all the info! My conclusion is that I WILL, in fact, get an E-Tune. I know I can install the SRI + TIP myself, but they aren't charging for the installation on that. Might as well let them do it since they will already be in there. As far as the AutoTech HPFP(1.5 hours), and CNT DP(4.5 hours), CPE RMM(1 hour) they are charging for that. Their rate is $90/hour, not too sure if I mentioned that yet.

I'm actually excited about these mods! Here in the next couple of months, I'm planning on getting the CPE Triton CBE, CS race pipe, H&R Springs, Koni struts, CS front/rear strut bar, drilled/slotted breaks (not sure which brand yet), Hawk break pads, CS bushings, CS shift plate, CS catch pan, Forge BPV, and minor cosmetic engine parts.

I think this is a decent build for a daily driver. Does anyone have any suggestions/opinions about the parts I mentioned? Preferred brand and why?

P.S. I will donate tomorrow, I maxed out my debit card limit for the day. :P

FP SRI TIP all in one shot 1.5hours
DP 1.5hours
RMM 5mins


do it urself
save money for other parts

They are charging him what all data states it takes to do this stuff, hell a turbo replacement only pays us 4.5 hr under warranty and I can have one out and in with in 3hr. Honestly you are spending $630 in labor alone, which can be used towards other goodies. and hanging with nator folks is a good experience man and trust me some of these guys no more about these cars then these outside tuning shops.

Buy from edge and not those guys.... Let nator help you out and be glad you even have a nator in your state lol. Don't pay 90 an hour for what you can do with your newfound friends.

okay im sorry but you are a fuckin retard, and i dont think you know it, yeah you are putting alot of good parts into your car, but honestly i think you need to save your money, and invest it in some driving lessons so you can really take full advantage of the car. because from the way you are talking you have no knowledge of cars , and its good that your on hear to get help, but you seem like you just traded you toyota hybrid in and have never halld ass down a mountain road pushing your car to the limit


and yeah my spelling and gamer sucks, fuckin deal with it

downpipe is 1.5 hours for install? In what world?

i'm too ADD to read this whole thread, so i'm sure i'm just reinforcing what everyone has said..

ditch the bpv, you don't need it. ditch the cat back exhaust, you don't need it. ditch the springs, you don't need them.

there, now you have enough money for AP and internals. you need them.

Yezzirrr, I've already ordered AP, AT Internals, CPE RMM, CNT downpipe (catless), Cobb SF intake with TIP. Will get an E-tune after I get parts installed, and then will run some logs for a while and tweak from there! Thanks for your input, greatly appreciated!

don't get drilled/slotted rotors. unless you like the look. they offer us no increase in performance. in fact, many of us love the stock brakes (see that's how you spell it) and rotors, so i'd stick with them until they need replacing.

i'm so jealous of your build.. i has no money so my car is as built as it's gonna be. i will say, though, that i've done all the work on my car myself. you should do what you are comfortable doing. it will teach you a lot about how this car works and also allow you to quickly trouble shoot, saving you time and moneez in the future.

*Brakes- Check. Haha, grammar police. :P
Anyways, I actually do like the look. Plus the metal that is removed from the BRAKES add 5hp per rotor! ;) I do need new brake pads, they keep throwing this fucking nasty dust all over my rims. -.-

I just sold my Eclipse so I figured I'd take care of some bills, and have fun with the new car! My fiance' doesn't know I spent $1,600 on parts today though. :P

I work 7 days on, 7 days off. I recently got a DWI, so my week off I'm busy with my classes to get this shit off my record, and my daughter is only a lil bit over a year old. I don't have much free time anymore

That is normal just wash your wheels once a week

I do it twice a week lol.. I bought my car a month ago, and already have 3k miles -.-

Or rotate them until you get a classy gunmetal finish.

You should honestly part out your car, and go back to school with the money you've gotten back.

Good shit, lol. Never thought about that :P

you'll find many other BRAKE pads are just as dusty..

i have 2 kids, one 3, one 9, so i feel you about lack of free time. i installed many of my parts with my youngest toddling around. it worked out mostly well, except when i'd be under the car and he would take all the parts and tools i had lying around and play with them. putting shit back together took 3 times longer than it should have, what with the easter egg hunt for the parts and tools..

good luck..

If you want less dusty brake pads with still good performance then get some akebono pads. Im running them and so are a few others on here, they dont dust at all. I was gonna go for the whole slotted rotor thing but its a complete waist with how good our brakes already are. Not to mention all you need is the front pads and theyre only 75$ shipped. I could go weeks without a wash and barely notice dust, mainly road grime just fyi.

Any longevity specs with average use?

Theyre still holding up great after idk 6months or so maybe longer. In the shitty houston heat and driving crazy i dont notice any fade unless im stopping hard from around 100 after average use first, but that was only one time...hopefully.

[QUOTE=Rmichel2;1717236]You should honestly part out your car, and go back to school with the money you've gotten back.



hey fucknut guess what? i am in collage. yeah im broke but who the hell cares im gettin by and thats all that matters when your a collage kid.

but really you should take some racing classes or something so you actually know how to drive

:popcorn:

First off, become a part of nator. Don't be a faggot who just gets shit installed and then dips out.

Easy tiger. While I agree that his comment is filled with numerous grammatical errors and what not, you're getting let off super easy when its clear you haven't read anything on here.

Spending 15 minutes reading the General Discussion forums and you would have found your answer.

i was just trying to prove a point.. i haven't changed the DP on mazdaspeed yet.. but when i did it on my old car it took about 2 hours

@Rmichel2 : If you have the money to burn, go for it. Sometimes time is more valuable than the money spent. At least you listened to the golden rules. But for future reference always hit up @eric@edgeautosport to see if you can work out a package deal. If you're going to blow cash on a project at least try and score the parts at a cheaper price.