NOOB GETS HIS AP!!!
 

AMAZING WHAT A $600, 15 min. OF YOUR TIME, & A LITTLE PROGRAMMING GETS YA! WOOHOO!!!:arms: GOT MY KICK ASS STEREO INSTALL FINISHED A WHILE AGO TOO. BOOM!!
A special thanks to all the helpful threads on here, this forum for existing, and a big shootout to Ant at COBB SoCal for all the helpful info and future planning.

Could you feel the again after stage one tune with everything else stock?

All I read was noob overpaid

I'm sorry, could I feel the "again"? Did you mean "gain"? If that's what your asking, then HELLS YES. Car drives better over all too.

Noob bought directly in person from the retailer and Ant was cool enough to give me a tour of the shop and gave me valuable info for future mods. All when I showed up 10 min. before closing and helped me out for well over an hour after closing time. Was worth paying retail for the AP.

What kind of gains are you guys getting being bone stock with just a tune?

Try reading around and learning something. Asking questions about stuff plastered all over this website only gets you so far. Read up!

I've been searching for a couple hours now and haven't found any solid numbers!

Every car is dif maybe?

600 wtf...

I can't tell you what kind of #'s I'm getting yet as I just did the flash at 11:00 last night. I can tell you that for Noobs like us, this forum can quickly give you info overload, not to mention experienced (often jaded) types who love nothing more than yelling at us for asking questions. I learned quickly not to ask a question before I've completely exhausted every kind of search possible. Otherwise make room in your throat for company.
Ok to answer your question, like I said I can't give you #'s cause I haven't done much data logging. But the difference is very noticeable. The figures Ant @ Cobb SoCal gave me was to expect a 15% increase in HP, and a 20% increase in Tq. This feels about right. Also throttle response is much smoother. He also reassured me that you can get a lot of misinformation on here, and if I/you want info to call them or go on the support section of their website for answers. But most importantly, their pre-designed map flashes have many years of research put into them, and using the AP in its simplest form (flash and go) for non to slightly mod'd cars are designed to run your car withing completely safe parameters. I got all freaked out last night when after a flash and a test drive, I was reading a thread from a noob who was being given all this advise on how to calibrate his MAF after a necessary break in period after just a stage 1 flash. When I called Cobb today, they put my mind at ease that any custom tuning is only necessary at a full stage 2 point of mod. Anything else (ie: totally stock, intake sri and/or tip, turbo back or cat back exhaust, getting internals upgraded...all can be safely flashed with the AP and do not require any fine tuning to help you ecu learn all the safe parameters for keeping the integrity of your brand new car. Again, this is advise given from the creators of the Cobb AP, not from Joey Tuffguy who loves to intimidate noobs. The Cobb AP is definitely the first step in tuning, but they'll be more than happy to help you properly map out a proper schedule of the order things should be done. Hope this long winded rant helps. I'm just tired of getting bad info because I've been intimidated into not asking questions, and seeing it happen to others. We're your newest family members fellas, give us a break!
P.S. to the mediators: I know after several months of swiping info from here that it's time to donate, I will soon.

I just kin of read around about good brands of parts to get... Don't want to waste my time on junk crap... I am still new with the ACCESSPORT but been playing around with it... Not much you can really do with the on the shelf maps not unless you get a pro tune... Your best be to get some solid numbers on your car is to take it to a shop and do a couple of dynos with a stock map compared to a stage one map and that should give you a pretty close idea of that 15%-20%... I have done the dyno on the ACCESSPORT but I highly doubt that it is accurate but plan on taking it to a shop to get a dyno done then plan on takin it to the 1/4 mile to see what kind of times I can run with what I have done... I also plan on getting a CP-E down pipe with the cat and the CP-E triton exhaust then having a professional tune done... Anyways I would say best bet is to just play around with it and you will figure it out... Have fun...

Adding an AP and stage 1 tune to an otherwise bone stock MS3 will get you about 30-35 whp and ~25 wheel lbs/ft.

That is, until you go boom.

On a Dynapack (a real dyno that reads a little high like a Dynojet) my car put down bone stock (with 3000 miles on it)

230whp
243wheel lbs/ft

Then after installation of an Cobb SF intake, Cobb TIH, and AP flashed to stage 1, on the same dyno, on the same day it put down:

273whp
273wheel lbs/ft

I got 1 mile from the shop, stomped it in 2nd gear up a hill and got "face full of windshield." This means I was one of the roughly 25% of folks who got a factory CDFP that is incapable of even a 30whp gain. Not good. I immediately flashed stage0 and had Autotech internals installed. I also immediately learned to trust this forum over the local yokels. (Big fucking props to @Captain KR on this one, he helped me install it and its been flawless; by the way cap'n how's your 500hp motor build coming? WILL YOU LET ME DRIVE IT AT CECIL? If you say yes I'll get 4 welds, 4 slicks, and launch off the rev limiter and we can be the first black/white/white combo to run a 10 second MZR ?)

*** DO YOURSELF A HUGE FAVOR AND PONY UP FOR THE $350 and 2-3 hours to install the Autotech fuel pump upgrade NOW NOW NOW NOW NOW ***

Yes the AP is a miracle device. I hope they include the 2-step launch control in the firmware, otherwise I'd wait until they put it in there. Problem is, the OTS AP maps suck donkey dick. I mean really. They are set for the lowest common denominator car/fuel/weather/conditions, even in "Stage 2" form. Getting an intake and fuel pump, then asking Santa Claus to bring you some reduced exhaust back pressure and a stage 2 tune along with 30 more whp is like asking Hitler to have dinner with a Jew (I have no idea where that analogy came from). Just think of Stage WTF, Stage RocketShip, and Stage tune this mother fuck meself or have a tuner tune it or use one of the guides (Abilor's teaches you the most, Bucker's has great numbers, mine is hard to find and is almost the same as Buckers except I employ that fuel richening strategy and also include launch control parameters).

So yes the AP is a miracle and should be the FIRST mod to any MS3. Before you even change tune, a CDFP upgrade should be the second upgrade. Some people say it should be the other way. Fuck them. Get the AP first, that way when you install the CDFP upgrade you can be sure you aren't running 950psi of fuel pressure, feeling good and pimp, while your rods slowly slant sideways over the course of the next hundred miles.

Since then I've deleted the 2nd cat (just added a test pipe) and tuned it up further myself. I want to get it back on the same dyno as soon as the weather prohibits (no use comparing a dyno run from a 50*F day to a 95*F day since SAE correction was not used).

Based on about 25 logs/iterations of tuning I can say the self tune (instead of Cobb's Stage 1 tune) added another 15whp and about another 50 wheel lbs/ft of torque @ 3500rpms using essentially a @Bucker ATR cheat sheet guide tune but with a richening effect I employed from 5k rpms and up (I've found the cooling effect of the extra fuel creates slightly more power than the decreased power of combustion of a lean mixture). I know 15whp sounds lame but once you get around the 300whp mark (330whp mark if you are @Bucker) you just cannot get more flow out of the stock K04 on 93 octane. Remember noob (pressure != flow). Just ask any guys who own gaye ass GTIs, they'll all tell you "I'm running 22psi", but they forget to tell you its on a K03 and they are pushing about 230whp at 22psi fuck em).

I've only had about 5 logs with the test pipe but it seems to be worth about 6-8whp and mostly up top. In fact, this is when I really proved the cooling effect of adding fuel up top since all my VDs are returning a completely flat hp curve from 5.5k to 6.5k (whereas before installation of the test pipe, extra fuel, and maybe a half degree of base timing, the hp would certainly peak around 5,500rpms and then dip 20-30whp after that. Now it literally pulls flat all the way out to 6,500rpms. I'm considering shifting at 6200-6300rpms next time I go to the track (instead of 5800-6000 where you should shift a bone stock MS3).

As usual I go on and on. Gotta stop stealing my son's Adderall. Fuck now they need a bath. bye.

this thread hurt my brain.. and i'm drunk.
glad you got an AP?

Very much so. That is good advise the fortressofthunder gave if your gonna be driving the shit out of it. But If your just looking to pep up your everyday car that you drive like an everyday car any you like to have some spirited fun when the road in front of you opens up, I've been assured your safe with your factory HPFP. Of course taking occasional data logs is a good idea for piece of mind. But to be honest, I don't know that I'd feel comfortable not upgrading my internals when I go to replace my tip & intake & stage 1 reflash for that. Not because it's not possible to to keep the car from cracking up on me, but because sometimes I like to really get on it. So far the bit I've logged looks good. Idles at 430psi. and over 1600 at WOT, with no off feeling and a smooth back off in relationship to throttle position.
At any rate, I like Cobb's sri & tip, but I will be putting Autotech internals in at the same time to get it out of the way, piece of mind, and cause the shit that's in the way will be out of the way.

Guess the moral of the story is internals with Cobb AP and rear motor mount is the first mods you should do on this car. Thanks for the advise , also a noob to the mazdaspeed world.

Lol @ $600. Should have kept on searching on the forums. You truly overpaid. You may be the first guy on this forum that paid that much. AP's are a must, but not at that price. Fuck a tour.

How much do people pay from people on this forum/eBay/etc. for latest model Cobb AP's?

Also somebody will have to tell me one of these days what things like "Hypnotic Tuned" & "Freak Tuned" mean. I'm guessing these are very popular pro-tuners that create specific maps just for your car, but I'm just speculating.

I respect peoples opinion but you are new to this forum keep in mind that when you have car issues this forum will bail u out not your STEALERSHIP. Each senior member will lend you his opinion after his long experience with these mods and our member vendors are the best .My car was tuned by one of our PRO TUNERS (FREEK TUNED) is the one that got me 300WHP/353TQ on pump gas not COBB OTS . OTS map are a start only not fine tuned for maximum gains they're generic..... they do have helpful staff but this forum is were u will gain the most . I have been a visitor on this forum for a long time but I just committed into a membership my self.

THX:umbrella:

Some cars are fine with stage 1+ and no HPFP internals, others aren't. Some are fine for a while and then all of a sudden aren't. It doesn't matter how hard you drive your car, if you EVER go WOT without internals you should regularly take and check your logs for any drops below 1600psi.

YES! Tell your friends!

$540-$550 shipped is pretty easy to come by.

Those are etuners. We have a good lot of them on this forum, keep reading and you'll figure out who some of them are. If you decide you want a custom tune that's made for YOUR car, PM a couple of them and ask for more details. The cost if very, very low for the gains that you get (I won't tell you how low, you'll have to ask them yourself).

@eric@edgeautosport get with him and he will beat those prices

Also for op hope you like you're AP it honest doesn't matter if you paid retail if you like it right? It's like buying a car not everybody pays the same ;)



$515 Brand new shipped

They are e-tuners on this forum.

Thanks for all the info fellas! I guess I never thought to ask Eric @ AutoEdge if he'd give me a deal on an AP, he lists them for $595 on his site, same price as buying directly from Cobb. I'd sure like to talk with some of the custom pro tuners on here to find out how they work. Cobb SoCal, of course, offers a professional Dyno tune when you feel like your at the point in your stage 2 and above and are ready to get the most out of your car for the mods you've done. Cause like you've all said, the OTS maps are very generalized. I believe they quoted me about $500 for it.

i just sold AP for 350 on here... just saying... 600? fuck... and yes mine was new version doesn't really make a huge difference they can be updated... donate and take advantage of For Sale section. Anyways have fun with AP. Great little machine

or $425-475 used and that is the way to go!!

By the way, anything wrong (possible fail or bad fueling) on a completely bone stock MZR with AP uninstalled (for Cali Smog test), that could cause improper fueling or anything of that nature if upgraded HPFP is left in?

No.

E-Tuners are around $200 for a tune.

No warranty