please help! im new to this whole thing!
 

Hey guys, so I recently purchased a 2010, mazdaspeed3 with only 31k miles on it. I had the car for 3 days and a p2096 CEL code popped on. I got my car back yesterday drove it for like 35 miles and the CEL popped back on, i havent ran the new cel but im assuming its the same code. the car does lose performance when the light is on. Now im new to this whole modding thing, and i took some pictures of the cars engine bay. I know the intake is a CS series SRI, but i see something from a company called synapse, i did my research and i dont know if its a bov, bpv, or dv. Im new to this whole modding thing, but i am trying to learn. Any help in leaning me towards the right direction would be nice, i read from a few places that a BOV could throw this code easily, problem is idk if that synapse piece is a BOV. and also the o2 sensor was that they replaced when i first brought it back to dealer. if you guys see any aftermarket pieces here, please let me know! the dealer wasnt very good about telling me, and told me the car was stock.

Check for dp as well. You need to get an access port asap and check for upgraded internals for the hpfp

The bpv/bov you have is a good one. Check to see if a big 1" diameter tube is running to the intake from it. Looks to be set to vta from your pic

Edit: actually looks to be set to bpv hard to tell on phone

ill try to take a better picture of it, luckily my father is a mechanic and were putting it on lift tomorrow to check for any sort of dp leak or crack. and when you say access port whats that? sorry like i said im very noobish, me and my dad just started doing this together, its my first real project car. and internals for the hpfp, i dont know what that is either. :[ and is it a BOV, or a BPV or DV?

also, im going to a mazda dealer to run the CEL right now, ill post results soon. Before i was having a general dealer do it, and like 20 diff reasons came up, the girl on the phone said that they have a better mazda reader. Also if it helps, this car IS under CPO warranty. BUT i dont know what exactly would void warranty. Also worst case scenario if removing the BPV/BOV/DV removes code or is just a better answer i will do so. I just want no lights, i dont care if i have to downgrade.

I am shocked they CPO that car.
Accessport is cobb accessport. Google search Mazda accessport and donate so you can pick up a used one cheap

That synapse valve can be set to vent to atmosphere or bypass so you need a better picture with the intake filter removed

Dv and bpv are the same. Some can be set 50/50 vta

How are you pulling the codes thrown? Did the car come with an AccessPort, or are you using an app like Torque on your phone? Or did the dealer tell you what it was?

While we can't tell how heavily modified it actually is, it's certainly not stock.

p2096 means the ECU thinks you're running lean. This can happen for many reasons, such as
- bad or incorrectly placed O2 sensor (Need to find out if this car has an aftermarket downpipe -- does it seem pretty loud?)
- an aftermarket SRI without tuning for it
- unmetered air is making it into the intake flow
- possibly the MAF is very dirty
- among others -- hopefully people will comment, but you can also search that code here on the forums

The Synapse is a BOV, so should actually make the car run rich between shifts, rather than lean, more often causing backfires. A couple things to check:
- If you pull the air filter off, is the air straightener installed?
- Ensure the recirc tube on the Turbo Inlet Pipe (TIP) is properly blocked (follow the SRI towards the turbo, you should see another branch off the TIP, that the SRI mates to, and it needs to be properly plugged)

Again, search the forums for your code and you can find other possible things to check as well.

P.S. I'm not very familiar with the Synapse myself, but I don't believe that unit has a bypass mode based on the product page:

Blow off Valves | The official BOV, Synchronic Technology

They used to have a model identical to his that did either bpv or bov. I checked into it and the one that did both had a gray base not black so his is probably a bov.

My money is on the exhaust being the issue.

That cs intake is billet the straighteners can not be removed.

I am going to stop guessing here until you get the new code checked and get the car on a lift to check out the exhaust side.

You and me both, did they not open the hood at all? Seems kind of sloppy to me, id check the whole car over.

okay Guys, sorry i just got back from mazda dealership here is the code that THEY gave me.

P0421-

Warm up catalyst efficiency below threshold bank.

Failure type - 00
no additional failure type for this DTC

Status - E8 (INDETERMINATE - Warning lamp on)
Fault previously detected but monitor has not completed to determine state with warning lamp on.
diagnostic protocol - 14229


They said it was maybe a CAT issue. I do not know what the dealer used, like i said the General dealer (KEY AUTO ) pulled a p2096 code the first time then i brough it back to KEY and they changed an 02 sensor, (didnt tell me which one in paperwork..) the code came back on and then i brought it to seacoast mazda and they pulled the p0421, Im dropping it off thursday to have a tec really look at it, but tomorrow im putting it on a lift with my dad to examine the exhaust, ill try to snag some pictures of it on a lift, im hoping its not too modded, i dont want it to be a lemon, the car only has under 32k miles :/

Here are some more pictures guys, hopefully they help.

Thanks for all the help though guys, i will be donating when i get paid since everyone has already been so supportive. I hope i can figure this out, like i said i really love the car so far, and its my first car with under 90k on it. I just want her to run smooth, (also i havent beaten on the thing at all, honestly been babying her,)

Also, i don't quite get though why the cat would go so early, so tomorrow when i throw it on lift ill deff. post pictures and try to see whats up with the DP and such.

And as for the BOV, are you guys certain thats what it is? and if so should i just remove it?

It is extremely hard to tell but it looks to be recirculated so it probably is not the issue. Still betting on catless downpipe

Looked on my laptop it is in bpv mode

I stand corrected. speedfreak44 is correct that the synapse can run in bypass. Looking more closely at your pictures, it looks like the recirc hose is connected. The hose I'm speaking of is much larger than the 2 smaller hoses (vac) at the top of the BPV. It's the larger one on the bottom of the valve. Make sure that is securely fastened both at the valve and where it connects to the TIP.

From what I've heard, it is a great valve. I'm unsure if it needs periodic service, though, like the Forge V2.

Here's the manual: http://www.synapseengineering.com/su...V%20manual.pdf

Another possible issue is the secondary O2 sensor. AFAIK, it is what helps determine cat functionality, but may also throw p2096.

you shouldn't need a lift to check for an aftermarket downpipe.

enter here:

http://i.imgur.com/cfP14o8h.jpg

take snapshot here:

http://i.imgur.com/fjHIVQ3h.jpg

now if it's the stocker and it's gutted, that's another story. you'll want to get under there to check out the test pipe and the rest of the exhaust. check out your rear motor mount while you're under there and upgrade it if it's stock. if there are other modifications and you're running the stock tune, bad times happen. check on the fuel pump internals and get an accessport as soon as you can. i wouldn't do any spirited driving at all in the meantime.

when you say it can run bypass what do you mean? what mode is it in now? i never could tell if the sound was from that, or just having the SRI

Also, i well post pictures of the DP then, ill go outside ina bi t and try to get a good snapshot like you did acousticdefbot. Thanks for the help so far guys! like i said too, the new code its pulling is a 2041. He cleared the CEL tho, and ive driven like 20 miles and its not on right now still.

i just reread and saw you said it is in BPV mode. Does that mean its supporting the intake basically? instead of trying to just give me a pshh sound? Just a lil confused on the difference between the two, ive looked into it, but still kind of meh on the whole thing.

Bov mode gives a loud shwoosh sound between shifts and vents (usually) completely to atmosphere

Bpv diverts the pressure back into the intake stream so it does not affect the maf reading. These can also be loud though so don't base stuff just on sound. Yours is definitely a bypass not bov right now.

Synapse does not require cleaning or maintenance or adjusment etc as far as I can recall.

Yours is set up correctly.

Get the pics of the downpipe.

Edit: also donation will give you access to the for sale section, lots of manuals and many other things you can not currently access. The for sale section will more than make up for your donation once you see how well we help each other out here

Awesome thank you for the help so far, and yes donating will be happening! Thank you for even more info my man! Im about to post some pictures as well, i hope i got the right pipe and shit, liek i said ill have pictures of the exhaust tomorrow, and also i wanted to ask how i can check to see if the previous owner put in any motor mounts.

Also how do i switch modes? Ill look at the manual you posted as well, and is BPV mode a healthier option? I just want to make sure the car is at a nice good spot to be daily driven. Im not here to have a racecar just yet :D

And to everyone, be honest please, are all these mods okay for someone as new as me? ive never even greased an intake filter before, but im ready to fucking learn!
Like i keep saying, i just wanna get this thing in a good steady position.

In your first pic, the shiny silver metal in the top right is just the heat shield. You need to get a shot of the pipe that is under that. Get your camera right down there. Look at acousticdefbot's second pic. The metal in the top right is the same shield, but his shot is under that shield of the pipe with 'cp-e' on it. That pipe is what we need to see.

It is in BPV mode *because* the recirculation tube is installed and the excess boost is routed into the intake stream. If you take that tube off, and it is expelling the excess boost into the air (VTA=vent to air), it is then a blow off valve.

If all that's modified on the car is the intake and BPV, you're *probably* fine -- but any MS3 will benefit from a tune, even if mild. That's what you need the Cobb AccessPort for.

It would behoove you to learn a lot more prior to advancing into further mods to be comfortable.

awesome, yea its dark now, ill try to take a lot of good pictures tomorrow, and yea i looked into the acessport, is it something i could get used for alot cheaper? cause i was only seeing ones for like 695$

also so far is it looking like i may need a new CAT? since the new code is saying that? or could it still be something else?

Yes -- if you donate/become VIP, you will have access to the for sale forums and AP's pop up often. You will get a better deal on a used V2 vs. the newer V3 (which is likely what you're finding for $695). You'll usually find them between $300-400 used.

If you have an aftermarket catless DP or a gutted stock DP (gutted means intentionally removing the CAT) then you don't have a CAT to replace :). If that's the case, and you're uncomfortable with that level of mod, you could source a stock DP to replace it. But, that's still to be determined.

if you go vip ppl have them up for sale all the time. Got mine within a week of going vip and paid 325 for a v2.

and you may already upgraded (possibly catless) dp.. possibly causing your cel problem. Not necessarily a bad cat, just non existant.

try and get that photo of the dp.. if it's upgraded you definately want to make sure your fuel pump has been upgraded also, could be why you got the code saying your lean

You do not simply disconnect the bypass tube to vent to atmosphere. Please contact synapse regarding the model because it is not that simple.

Fwiw keep it in bpv mode it will be less headache

Also, some ms3 have been proven to need upgraded fuel pumps even with intakes so do not assume you are safe until you crack open the fuel pump and get an accessport. You are starting down a slippery slope right now. Donate. Read. Read some more.

okay thanks for the info. And before i get one of those, do i have to have knowledge of tuning? or does the system do it for me?

also i got my car on the lift today guys, igot some more pictures, i hope i got good ones, didnt really know what exactly to be taking pictures of. i hope you guys can help me diagnose this, cause my dad said he had no idea what the previous owner actually did, cause hes not familiar with modding.

Heres some more pictures guys, thanks for all the help. I really really cant wait to solve all this, the first newer car i get is having issues already, just really shitty

also my dad said he thought he saw a resinator, but not a cat? so idk? If so i well tell the dealer i got car from to get me whatever stock parts i need.

and also, i was seeing alot of CS marked parts under the hood and under neath, if anyone can help me identify any visable mods they see it would be greatly apprecieted. I just want to know everything that was swapped on the car.

Definitely not the stock downpipe bro. Looks like the CorkSport DP:

MazdaSpeed3 | Mazdaspeed 3 Downpipe

As others have said, you definitely need to check that you have upgraded fuel pump internals and get an AP stat if you want to stay in that state. It *is* possible the ECU is already tuned for these mods, but there's no way to know without an AP and regardless, you need to be able to monitor what's going on.

You don't really need to know how to tune yourself -- you can pay someone else to do that part -- but you DO need to know what to look for regarding certain vitals of the car while tuned.

Let us all take bets on what fuel pump is in there...I have money on corksport at this rate lol.

You might have gotten a pretty good deal on this car. I hope the car was flashed to stock so when you get an AP you will be good to go.

Contact stratified tuning or freektune or any of the others on the forum here. Plenty of good e tuners for your needs at good prices.

I also bet he has a CS tmic too. Should check for that.

well at this point i want to remove any mods if i have too. I dont want this DP in my car if it could be throwing the p2041 code. ive driven 100 miles now and the CEL isnt on still but, i know its probably going to pop back on.

The only other things I can see from the pictures; looks like you have a full CorkSport(CS) exhaust (are there two exhaust tips at the back or 1?) and a CS rear motor mount (this is fine and would want to run one of these even if you were fully stock).

Would be worth pulling the shroud off of the TMIC to see what that is as well. TMIC (top mount intercooler) is underneath the black shroud in the middle of your engine bay.

Yeah the previous ownedonly had the car for a year. he clearly did extensive modding. Ill work on getting an AP asap, but i really dont have alot of money right now. Im paying a pretty penny for the car already, so like i said the dealer i got it from ( a gen dealer) failed to tell me what wasnt stock. I mean the car clearly has a ton of money put into it, but whats the use of keeping them if its making my car shittier

Fair enough, but keep in mind, a downpipe swap is not a job for the feint of heart. My personal opinion is that your money would be better spent on an AP and a tune. Just need to figure out what fuel pump internals are in the car.

Once you check for fuel pump internal upgrade. Confirm you have it then get an AP and a $50 flash tune you will have a pretty fun car with lots of money worth of upgrades. How much did you pay if you don't mind me asking

okay cool thanks! and yea it had 2 tips, i didnt notice if it had cs on it though. The motor mount is good to hear cause that was going to be my first mod anyways lol.

ill try to pull of f that shroud near the TMIC, also how do i check for fuel pump upgrade? and being honest does the car have anything skeptical looking? or did the previous owner do a decent job?

And im paying 342 a month for the car, my loan is for 18,980 w/o interest. im only 22, and didnt need a cosign, i make like 1800 a month and live at home, so i got lucky. the car has 32k miles (just broke last night) and is in FLAWLESS condition.

Just from what can be seen, there are close to a couple grand in performance mods on the car. I'd be curious to know what you paid as well if you don't mind us asking, especially considering the low miles.

The actual car itself was 17,900, or something like that, i have full coverage and gap on it.

my interest rate was like 7.9 or something idfk, basically before interest though its shy under 19 gs

Hit up @Justin@Freektune; hes in the manchester area and may be able to help out. I def wouldnt pull the downpipe to put a stock one in. Youll hate yourself if you end up going to put the corksport one back in down the road lol.

awesome! and yea like i said, i only talked about removing it because i dont want a CEL error.

If we can solve the issue without removing mods, then YES PLEASE.

There are a couple of ways to tell if you have upgraded fuel pump internals that I can think of:
1. Pull the HPFP, take it apart and look at the internals -- search the forum, there are plenty of good guides on how to pull the HPFP and it's not horribly difficult
2. Get an AP and monitor pressure. With upgraded internals, you should see 1800+ PSI when going WOT

You should definitely drive gingerly until you know what internals are installed and have someone experienced check the tune.

so from what i can see though, did i get a good deal on the car at least? lol

I would say so -- as long as you treat the mods installed with respect.

okay, ill try searching and see if i can give you guys an answer on that. question though, could the code be popping solely because the car may not be tuned?

cause from what most of you are saying, getting this AP well be a breath of fresh air haha

i baby the hell out of the car, i babied my VW when i had it too. I was going to take it to track, but ill wait on the tune and shit.

also is just the dp changed? or does my car have a full aftermarket exhaust?

also is just the dp changed? or does my car have a full aftermarket exhaust?

Oh, I don't think you should baby it :) In fact, when you get everything straight, you should have as much "fun" as possible -- I just mean getting it straight and keeping an eye on things so you don't accidentally pop your motor when you're not paying attention.

I still can't believe they warrantied that thing lol.


BTW, the p2096 code really could have been a bad O2 sensor. While I can't be certain and you'll need more help diagnosing, I've heard of folks turning off the p2041 code with the AP. Sometimes it's a side-effect of the aftermarket DP.

You have a full aftermarket exhaust. Because racecar.

hahah yeah, the cPO only is covering powertrain at this point, and yea like i said, thhey cleared the 2041 code and its been a bit and it isnt back on, at this point ill make sure to tune her up asap. the mods can stay if you guys think everything looks okay.

also, ill make sure to have some fun her her dont you worry! its already the funnest car ive ever had hahahah

like i said too, if anyone asks i want to know exactly what was modded so i can tell them as well haha. and as for the cs series stuff, is that a good brand to stay with?

The last thing i want out of this whole process is to be making payments on a car thats basically a lemon, or was modded so bad that its already becoming a lemon. I dont know how realiable mazdas actually are, but ive heard good things.

i also have a question regarding the exhaust, do i just have the short pipe dp? or the cs long catted dp?

cause like i said before im very new to all this, and idek if my car has a cat converter or not

Yes, CS is an excellent brand. From what we've gleaned so far you have:
- CorkSport Turbo Back Exhaust (consisting of what seems to be a long high-flow CAT dp,and catback exhaust)
- CS SRI
- Synapse BPV
- CS rear motor mount

Still need to find out if you have upgraded internals and TMIC. Surprisingly, it looks like the passenger motor mount is stock (from what I can tell in the pictures). Can't tell what the transmission motor mount is until you pull the battery box and top plate, but if the PMM is stock, I'd guess the TMM is as well.

There are plenty of folks on this forum alone that have 100K+ miles on their heavily modified MS3's. They are reliable, but like any car, you need to maintain them and pay attention to any potential issues.

okay awesome, thats good to hear.
ill try to get some pictures of that stuff as well.

and as to checking the internals, what exactly is an HPFP. ill look at a guide today and see if i can get to em. Im hoping the previous owner did upgrade it, and that all she needs is a tune.

Also back to a previous picture i posted, What exactly is the CS part im looking at in this picture?

its right on top of where the transmission piece is that click it in gear

?

also im donating tonight, thanks for all the help guys, ive already learned so much in the past few days. Well worth the 25$ just cause of the help.

That is a short shift plate. Makes it so you don't need to move your shifter as far between gears. Basically, it creates more physical effort to row from gear to gear, but with a shorter throw so your shifts can be faster. It is a very popular mod and comes down to personal preference. I ran the JBR version.

That is a short shift plate

You need to.get a tune and confirm that you have upgraded fuel pump internals. Don't remove the downpipe. Just baby the car unroll you get a tune.

awesome, thank you so much guys! ill post back later with more info!

Heres a few more pictures, i took off that black casing and took a picture. is the TMIC the piece thats inbetween the black casing, and the engine?

i also got some pictures of exhaust tips and such.

it didnt look like it had been changed at all, the screws seemed like theyve never been touched.

Yes, looks like the stock TMIC. Also appears you have the stock axle back part of the exhaust, but everything forward of that, based on earlier pics, looks corksport.

The catback portion of the exhaust is oem not just the axle back.

The tmic is oem.

You can not assume you have hpfp internals with 1800psi readings as my stockers did that as well. The only real way is to remove the pump and do a tear down otherwise you are running on borrowed time. Monitoring with the AP is your next best option.

I suggest donating then finding a nator somewhere close to you to have them assist with just making sure things are good to go and possibly looking at a datalog or 2 for you once you get the AP.

okay cool, so now i just need to find out about the internals and such, and pick myself up an AP asap right?

thanks for being so patient with me to guys. lol, i build pcs for a hobby, and i'm learning that cars and computers aren't so different then they seem. haha


Okay cool, and so if part of the exhaust is OEM, do i not have a full redone exhaust?

it seems like i only have a couple peices

so since ive gotten a couple different answers regarding checking out the fuel pump internals, should i actually try to look and see if its upgraded myself? or wait on an AP.

At this rate itll maybe be 2-3 weeks before i can afford an AP

http://i.imgur.com/2XdJ4gz.jpg

that downpipe has been fiddled with. and your dealer told you the car was stock. fuel pump internals and an accessport are your priority now. lucky for you they are a priority regardless. if you're lucky the internals are already there. i would go back to the dealer and ask them politely why they told you the car was stock. they potentially let you drive away in a time bomb.

In addition to letting you load a tune to take advantage of those performance parts, an Access Port will let you disable CELs if a catless downpipe is what is turning it on.

yeah ive already made the dealer feel like garbage, they were really shady anyways, ill never go back. I only went there cause this car was a snag, and its a car ive wanted for years now hahah.

Ill deff work on checking the internals, and like i said im going ot get an AP asap.

Yeah i still havent really gotten an answer towards if its Catless or not, just what type of exhaust it was. I may be stupid though and missing something or read over something

Total CPO fraud by the dealer for sure.

The lump right before your 2nd O2 bung appears to be the high flow cat comparing it to the pictures on CorkSports page. It looks like the OEM piece has the flex section in a different location.

ive seen alot of people talking about these Bung things.

If you dont mind explaining exactly what that is and where it is?

The O2 sensor is that spark plug looking thing stuck into the exhaust pipe with the wire coming from it. It monitors the amount of oxygen in the exhaust stream and the ECU uses it to 'close the loop' in your fueling. A 'bung' just refers to the threaded hole the sensor is screwed into.

oh okay! so im assuming the 02 sensor in the engine bay is the front one? and the one down near exhaust is rear?

Also would someone mind maybe pointing me in the right direction towards a fuel pump upgrade if i do need? how much they typically cost and such? i am kind of broke atm, but i can save some cash. It seems like first things first get an AP though before everything else

man i kind of wish this car was stock too be honest, i would have treaded alot differently if i had known all this was changed. ive watched a couple vids on getting to the fuel pump, but i dont have enough confidence in myself to try and get to it at this point, it seems a little confusing. It sucks to be making payments on this car, and know it may not be as kosher as it should :/

Ill just have to put aside a day next weekend, and hopefully my dad can help me out and get to it.

I also had a question regarding maintenance as well guys, With my gti it really didnt need anything other then typical oil change and simple shit, anything different with the speed 3? Am i supposed to lube up the intake filter or anything yearly

Like some of the other guys have said, you may be able to figure out if you have a fuel pump without tearing stuff apart by monitoring your fuel pressure with an AP or other diag tool.

The old avatar was moar bettar FWIW. :biggthumpup:

i got in trouble for the old avatar :[

hahaha and okay a buddy just told me he has a diag tool to check fuel pressure!

so guys, i need your help. What numbers am i going to be looking for?

Once you donate, you could nicely ask in the Nator New England section if someone is near you and may be able to lend you a hand with checking the FP internals and identifying parts on your car.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f551/

The MS3 has basically the same maintenance. You only need to oil the filter if it is an oiled filter, not needed if a dry filter -- you'll just need to clean it periodically.

Shit man, the mods are pretty sweet. Lots of $ saved. But a virgin is always best. Giggity.

hahaha Cant deny that.

My buddy is going to be meeting me in an hour or so with a tool to check the fuel pressure.

what do the stock numbers look like?
and what should i be looking for to see if the internals were upgraded

How is it you are a son of a mechanic and don't know shit about cars?

here is a good how-to. if running autotech internals they will be marked as such on the cylinder sleeve. it's likely similar with other aftermarket internals. as a general rule of thumb, under wot, you do not want to drop below 1600 psi.

Welcome to the nuthouse homo.

Get an AP....like now.


I'll wait.



GO....

I dont know dude? maybe because i wasnt into fucking cars growing up? Me and my dad just started talking and actually bonding last year and im 22. Im here looking for help, not to explain my issues with my father,

thanks man! ill look at it now!

so if the fuel internals are stock, 1600 psi is what im looking for?

More like 1400 wot lol...not a good thing

what do you mean 1400 wot?

1400 PSI (fuel pressure) at Wide Open Throttle(WOT).

The problem with this method is that there are some stock internals that will hold good pressure, at least for a while. So, keep in mind, if you're holding 1600-1800 PSI at WOT, you could have *either* stock or aftermarket internals. On the otherhand, if you see <1600 PSI at WOT, you *most likely* have stock internals. Only way to be certain is to take it apart.

Ohhhhh okay, thank you for clarifying! He should be here shortly, ill post results.

You really need to pull the pump and inspect the internals to be certain.

Follow this guide http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ernals-146760/

It's an install guide but will show you how to pull the pump. Take lots of good, close up pictures of this assembly and people will be able to help you.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1433711538


Have some rags or paper towels ready as a little bit of fuel will spray/drip. Past few times I didn't even bother to pull the fuse or battery tray out because I'm lazy. As long as the key is off etc you're good in my opinion.

Yeah, im going to do it next weekend on my day off on saturday.

and awesome, i sw that earlier and it was really well done. Ill be doing some more research on my own as well. Thanks for the help guys,


ALSO, CEL hasnt popped on and its been over 300 miles now.

before it popped on way way sooner, so im hoping it MAY have just been a bad 02

Sucks you got told it's stock, but free mods are the best mods.

Of course if stock hpfp, could have been about to zoom zoom boom and he unloaded it. Trust nobody.

So the program my buddy had didnt end up showing what i needed it too, although it was able to tell me the car at wot does push like 15.5psi boost

Also, he said that my car has been through the drive cycles, and there are no pending codes, and the CEL is still off.

im really hoping the guy before me upgraded the pump, and it was just a bad 02giving me problems lol.

Seems like a piston height test, compression and leakdown are in order.

If he was using an application on his phone like 'Torque' with a bluetooth adapter, that will tell you fuel pressure, but you have to purchase the 3rd party Mazdaspeed plugin for it. If you were doing a 3rd or 4th gear WOT pull and only getting 15.5 lbs of boost, then either the tune is likely stock, or there's probably something else nefarious going on. Can you describe what exactly you did when it read that value? Ie. 3rd gear, got to 3000 RPM then put pedal to the floor to 5500 RPM, etc.

Too be honest, he was using some app on his phone, but he had the paid version. For some reason fuel pressure wasnt working, and yeah i only did a 2nd gear i got it to like 3k and then cranked it to like 5500-6000 i think, i didnt do it too much cause his app ended up being finicky.

Also though, good news. Im getting almost 600 dollars in 2 weeks from my old gap insurance plan, i will be using this money to grab an AP, and get it tuned. My buddy knows a guy really well 45 mins from me, and he does dynos and tunes. Hes a supra specialist, but apparently knows turbo cars very well.
and i also would like to say, its been now like 600 miles and no CEL is back on, CROSSING MY FINGERS, car is running alot smoother too.

i have no idea what those are, but i can try lol

One more thing for everyone whose posted and helped me out, After all said and done, ive really just considered trying to keep all these mods, and go from there, but assuming no CEL comes back on, and i find out the fuel pump has been upgraded, should all the beast need is a nice fresh tune?

(also like i said, next weekend on saturday my dad already told me hed help me get to the fuel pump, so were going to do it together, and ill post results.)

running to bank btw and registering my car, then i'm going to come home and donate! thank you again for all the help my friends!

Not doubting you or your dads mechanical ability but, you might want to ask around the nator new england section for a hand on doing them. Theyre not hard but its definitely nice to have someone near by that has done them before.

Yes all yoh should need is a tune. Youll want to figure out everything on the car first so when you do talk to whoever you choose to tune it, they can get the best out of it.

Welcome. Two things here:

1.) Use one of the tuners on this site. Not because they're here, but because they know this platform. Your buddy's "guy" who tunes supras might be the best supra tuner out there, but a MS3 is not a supra. It will be cheaper and safer to get an OTS+ (off the shelf plus) map from someone here -- less than $100 and it will keep you safe. An hour on the dyno and someone who doesn't know the DISI platform could end up costing you a shiny new block. Point being, go to suprabro and you're rolling the dice.

2.) You're very concerned with the CEL, while what you should be concerned with is your fuel pump internals and the tune on your car. I'm not sure that you've figured it out yet, but low fuel pressure at heavy throttle through WOT has been determined to be the leading cause of a vented block mod.

You have some great mods on the car already--but it is potentially a ticking time bomb if you don't have the fuel pump internals, and you're not tuned. Pay attention to what's important right now.

HPFP upgrade is not hard--take a day and go slow. There are YouTube videos, picture walkthroughs and plenty of threads on here to get you through it.

Yeah, ill make sure to ask around, that was honestly going to be one of my first options. Cause as of now, my dad isnt too keen with all the mods and shit.

Thanks for the input

I am not as concerned with the CEL at all anymore, it hasnt popped and im not too worried. I am checking the internals this weekend, i havent been doing any spirited driving in the meantime, and as for the tune, i litterly just got home from signing the paper work, i have a check coming in 4-6 weeks for 543 dollars from a gap insurance agency. When i get this money ill be grabbing an AP ASAP. The only reason i asked about paying someone to tune my car in the meantime, is because i didnt know if going that long on a stock tune (assuming it is) would be very bad

And as to the tune, when i do get the accessport, do you typically run the maps that are on there already? or do you always get a custom tune? because iwas reading that some of the aps come with like a standard stage 1 map and shit like that.

just donated!
Once again appreciate all the support and help guys!

A simple check you can look for is a zip tie on the fuel line running to the bottom of the pump. If there is a zip tie on there, that's an indicator that at some point the fuel pump was removed. This isn't really a true test of what's inside, but just something you could do now if you're losing sleep over it.

You can run the Cobb tunes that come on the AP. Those are commonly referred to as OTS (off the shelf) tunes. They are meant to be safe, one-size fits all tunes for specific components. An OTS+ tune that I referenced above, is the next step up. It's a generic tune, for your specific mods. A full blown tune, will be tailored to your car, over multiple iterations, until you and the tuner are satisfied.

The Cobb tunes would keep you safe (there's even a safe mode if you're really concerned), but an OTS+ will get you 80%+ of what a full tune is capable of.

The "OTS" tunes are the one that come on the AP already. Would be a little better than stock tune but you should eventually get a full tune. Hit up justin, freektune.com. Get an OTS+ tune from him if you dont want to pay for the full tune just yet. Email him with your mods and let him know that you just got the car and dont know whats up with the tune. Im sure he can get you a base map ready pretty quick that will be safe.

Awesome, thanks dude. This was one of the better answers towards the AP.

now that im VIP ill deff check out the for sale section as well!

ill check for a ziptie right now, and thanks for that info man, i was wondering what OTS tunes meant. So ideally you want to get the tune for your specific mods, because that tune well get you the most bang for your buck type of thing right? (as in the optimal power from car)

Optimal power, efficiency and safer for your car with the mods installed.