More like 1400 wot lol...not a good thing

what do you mean 1400 wot?

1400 PSI (fuel pressure) at Wide Open Throttle(WOT).

The problem with this method is that there are some stock internals that will hold good pressure, at least for a while. So, keep in mind, if you're holding 1600-1800 PSI at WOT, you could have *either* stock or aftermarket internals. On the otherhand, if you see <1600 PSI at WOT, you *most likely* have stock internals. Only way to be certain is to take it apart.

Ohhhhh okay, thank you for clarifying! He should be here shortly, ill post results.

You really need to pull the pump and inspect the internals to be certain.

Follow this guide http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ernals-146760/

It's an install guide but will show you how to pull the pump. Take lots of good, close up pictures of this assembly and people will be able to help you.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1433711538


Have some rags or paper towels ready as a little bit of fuel will spray/drip. Past few times I didn't even bother to pull the fuse or battery tray out because I'm lazy. As long as the key is off etc you're good in my opinion.

Yeah, im going to do it next weekend on my day off on saturday.

and awesome, i sw that earlier and it was really well done. Ill be doing some more research on my own as well. Thanks for the help guys,


ALSO, CEL hasnt popped on and its been over 300 miles now.

before it popped on way way sooner, so im hoping it MAY have just been a bad 02

Sucks you got told it's stock, but free mods are the best mods.

Of course if stock hpfp, could have been about to zoom zoom boom and he unloaded it. Trust nobody.

So the program my buddy had didnt end up showing what i needed it too, although it was able to tell me the car at wot does push like 15.5psi boost

Also, he said that my car has been through the drive cycles, and there are no pending codes, and the CEL is still off.

im really hoping the guy before me upgraded the pump, and it was just a bad 02giving me problems lol.

Seems like a piston height test, compression and leakdown are in order.

If he was using an application on his phone like 'Torque' with a bluetooth adapter, that will tell you fuel pressure, but you have to purchase the 3rd party Mazdaspeed plugin for it. If you were doing a 3rd or 4th gear WOT pull and only getting 15.5 lbs of boost, then either the tune is likely stock, or there's probably something else nefarious going on. Can you describe what exactly you did when it read that value? Ie. 3rd gear, got to 3000 RPM then put pedal to the floor to 5500 RPM, etc.

Too be honest, he was using some app on his phone, but he had the paid version. For some reason fuel pressure wasnt working, and yeah i only did a 2nd gear i got it to like 3k and then cranked it to like 5500-6000 i think, i didnt do it too much cause his app ended up being finicky.

Also though, good news. Im getting almost 600 dollars in 2 weeks from my old gap insurance plan, i will be using this money to grab an AP, and get it tuned. My buddy knows a guy really well 45 mins from me, and he does dynos and tunes. Hes a supra specialist, but apparently knows turbo cars very well.
and i also would like to say, its been now like 600 miles and no CEL is back on, CROSSING MY FINGERS, car is running alot smoother too.

i have no idea what those are, but i can try lol

One more thing for everyone whose posted and helped me out, After all said and done, ive really just considered trying to keep all these mods, and go from there, but assuming no CEL comes back on, and i find out the fuel pump has been upgraded, should all the beast need is a nice fresh tune?

(also like i said, next weekend on saturday my dad already told me hed help me get to the fuel pump, so were going to do it together, and ill post results.)

running to bank btw and registering my car, then i'm going to come home and donate! thank you again for all the help my friends!

Not doubting you or your dads mechanical ability but, you might want to ask around the nator new england section for a hand on doing them. Theyre not hard but its definitely nice to have someone near by that has done them before.

Yes all yoh should need is a tune. Youll want to figure out everything on the car first so when you do talk to whoever you choose to tune it, they can get the best out of it.

Welcome. Two things here:

1.) Use one of the tuners on this site. Not because they're here, but because they know this platform. Your buddy's "guy" who tunes supras might be the best supra tuner out there, but a MS3 is not a supra. It will be cheaper and safer to get an OTS+ (off the shelf plus) map from someone here -- less than $100 and it will keep you safe. An hour on the dyno and someone who doesn't know the DISI platform could end up costing you a shiny new block. Point being, go to suprabro and you're rolling the dice.

2.) You're very concerned with the CEL, while what you should be concerned with is your fuel pump internals and the tune on your car. I'm not sure that you've figured it out yet, but low fuel pressure at heavy throttle through WOT has been determined to be the leading cause of a vented block mod.

You have some great mods on the car already--but it is potentially a ticking time bomb if you don't have the fuel pump internals, and you're not tuned. Pay attention to what's important right now.

HPFP upgrade is not hard--take a day and go slow. There are YouTube videos, picture walkthroughs and plenty of threads on here to get you through it.

Yeah, ill make sure to ask around, that was honestly going to be one of my first options. Cause as of now, my dad isnt too keen with all the mods and shit.

Thanks for the input

I am not as concerned with the CEL at all anymore, it hasnt popped and im not too worried. I am checking the internals this weekend, i havent been doing any spirited driving in the meantime, and as for the tune, i litterly just got home from signing the paper work, i have a check coming in 4-6 weeks for 543 dollars from a gap insurance agency. When i get this money ill be grabbing an AP ASAP. The only reason i asked about paying someone to tune my car in the meantime, is because i didnt know if going that long on a stock tune (assuming it is) would be very bad

And as to the tune, when i do get the accessport, do you typically run the maps that are on there already? or do you always get a custom tune? because iwas reading that some of the aps come with like a standard stage 1 map and shit like that.

just donated!
Once again appreciate all the support and help guys!

A simple check you can look for is a zip tie on the fuel line running to the bottom of the pump. If there is a zip tie on there, that's an indicator that at some point the fuel pump was removed. This isn't really a true test of what's inside, but just something you could do now if you're losing sleep over it.

You can run the Cobb tunes that come on the AP. Those are commonly referred to as OTS (off the shelf) tunes. They are meant to be safe, one-size fits all tunes for specific components. An OTS+ tune that I referenced above, is the next step up. It's a generic tune, for your specific mods. A full blown tune, will be tailored to your car, over multiple iterations, until you and the tuner are satisfied.

The Cobb tunes would keep you safe (there's even a safe mode if you're really concerned), but an OTS+ will get you 80%+ of what a full tune is capable of.

The "OTS" tunes are the one that come on the AP already. Would be a little better than stock tune but you should eventually get a full tune. Hit up justin, freektune.com. Get an OTS+ tune from him if you dont want to pay for the full tune just yet. Email him with your mods and let him know that you just got the car and dont know whats up with the tune. Im sure he can get you a base map ready pretty quick that will be safe.

Awesome, thanks dude. This was one of the better answers towards the AP.

now that im VIP ill deff check out the for sale section as well!

ill check for a ziptie right now, and thanks for that info man, i was wondering what OTS tunes meant. So ideally you want to get the tune for your specific mods, because that tune well get you the most bang for your buck type of thing right? (as in the optimal power from car)

Optimal power, efficiency and safer for your car with the mods installed.

OTS = "Off The Shelf"

An OTS tune that is specific for the mods you have installed (Catless Downpipe, Intake/Turbo Inlet Pipe, etc.) will give you a good place to start from a safety perspective. These maps are freely available on Cobb's website, and for a little bit more money, you can pay for an OTS+ tune from one of the master-tuners (Stratified Automotive, FreekTune, etc.), and have a tune that is tailored more specifically to the exact modifications you have on your car (Corksport Catless Downpipe, CS Intake/Turbo Inlet Pipe, etc.)

YOU MUST PULL YOUR HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP BEFORE PROCEEDING ANY FURTHER. Do not go WOT until you have checked that you have an upgraded pump.

I would strongly recommend that you avoid ANY and ALL tuning shops who do anything other than specialize in the MZR DISI engine. You have access to a wealth of tuners on MSF, and they will not do you wrong. Most tuning shops that don't deal with this platform will charge you hundreds of dollars to upload an OTS map to your car and then tweak the map to raise the boost to try and make the car faster. THIS IS NOT AN APPROPRIATE, NOR SAFE SOLUTION.

Use one of the E-tuners here. Full stop.

please help! im new to this whole thing!
 

Welcome to the forums and understand that some of the guys around here are a little rough around the edges. If someone is being a dick, don't take it personally. There tends to be a lot of keyboard warriors here but it's those same warriors that know a great deal about this platform. Like everyone has said before, get in touch with your local NATOR chapter and those guys will help you out greatly.

Oh, and I love the color. It's the hardest color to find for the GenPu :)


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Ya, pull that corksport downpipe off and throw it in a dumpster. Then tell me exactly where said dumpster is so I can avoid it. Ya that sounds good.

Welcome.

hahah yeah man, no problem, i dont take shit like that too personal. and actually i was going to ask what the hell does NATOR actually mean? and can someone point me in the right direction to the threads where i can try to talk and meet with some peeps near me.

Everyone else said to keep it?

I dont just have the downpipe, i have the full turboback exhaust.

out of curiosity, why should i remove? Because im trying to avoid any problems. I really am not trying to make a racecar, i just want a nice fun car to drive.

thank you for the tips my friend. Ive decided im not going to go to any tune shop unless they specialize in these cars, which i dont think theres one near me. Like i said before, i have been taking it VERY easy, and im new to this whole thing, so im going to set time this saturday to check the fuel pump. Hopefully by then, i can maybe find someone near me whose done it before, or who knows how to do it easily.

And you keep saying my exhaust is catless? I thought it wasnt catless? someone earlier on my post said it had a highflow cat?

Can anyone else chime in on this?

He wants your downpipe. :)

New England NATOR page:

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f551/


@Ayerspeed; is giving you bad advice. What you should do is remove the downpipe, box it up carefully, and mail it to me in CO.:thanks:

http://i.imgur.com/xn2ekJ5.png

he was busting your stones. he wants you to throw it out and then provide him with its exact location so he can then scoop it up for himself. i mean avoid it.

NATOR = Raider's love for meat and bacon


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Me, me, me!!!

I stand corrected. I didn't look at your pictures of the pipe carefully enough. It absolutely IS catted. I would hold onto it and the rest of the exhaust. It's a nice setup, and it'll certainly give you a more interesting-sounding car as well as a noticeable bump in power potential once you've got a good tune.

haha okay cool, thanks for the quick response man.

and thanks dude! i'm really excited to get this thing all ready to go!

lmao

thanks man, i actually ended up fidning it myself, and i did post on there. I also joined the NE facebook group page. Thanks for all the quick response!

Well shit, he should have just asked :darth:

If this thing turns out to be on stock internals, we need to figure out who the asshole is that goes on a CS shopping spree without doing internals. Seriously, considering what is done to that car, there is no way the PO didn't know the fuel pump was required.

hahahahaha dude. I couldnt have said it better!

@Gnarland; I was just playing around. I really just want the pipe:3some: We should be having some sort of get together soon, whether it be a big lake day event or just a few guys getting some fenders rolled. Find the Nator New England section and introduce yourself. We have a good group of dudes up here.

P.S. I hate you because you are probably more modded than I am and you had no idea.

hahahaha nice. Yeah dude, i actually did go on there and post, ill post something introducing myself as well! everyone has already been so awesome! and lmao! Yeah dude, the kid who had it before me only had it for 20k miles. He put some work into it for the year ish he had it.

Did you pay more for the car since it was certified preowned?

UPDATE FOR EVERYONE :


Joined the Facebook page, and asked about needing help with the hpfp....

Got a response, 45 mins from me, a small group of local dudes who are willing to help me this weekend hopefully! One of them even has an AP v2 for sale as of recently, and is willing to give me a good deal on it! fucking music to my ears!

i dont think so. The CPO is only valid on powertrain, but for all i know it may not even be valid. I got the car at a local general dealer, not a mazda dealer. I had mazda run my vin and they said the warranty is active till 100k or 2017, because the car was a show car from 2010 to 2014, Car was actually sold LAST year, and warranty doesnt kick in till car is SOLD. I got lucky with it, cause the one owner put 22k on the car, (it had 8k from moving around state to state) and i got it with right under 31k.

Before anyone starts bitching about the ap for sale, thats not the nator ne group. He must have joined a different group.

Just sayin its obviously not certified and the mods it came with would make a warranty claim difficult if not impossible. Therefore you should have paid significantly less than retail value for the vehicle.

Yeah sorry! it was from the FB page group! i got to the FB group from the nator page though

Did you get the car from a dealer in CT? I remember when I was looking there was one that was owned and driven by Mazda with a bunch of stuff already on it. Might have even had some suspension work done. They just wanted nothing to do with my trade so I never looked at it.