please help! im new to this whole thing!

[Gnarland]

Hey guys, so I recently purchased a 2010, mazdaspeed3 with only 31k miles on it. I had the car for 3 days and a p2096 CEL code popped on. I got my car back yesterday drove it for like 35 miles and the CEL popped back on, i havent ran the new cel but im assuming its the same code. the car does lose performance when the light is on. Now im new to this whole modding thing, and i took some pictures of the cars engine bay. I know the intake is a CS series SRI, but i see something from a company called synapse, i did my research and i dont know if its a bov, bpv, or dv. Im new to this whole modding thing, but i am trying to learn. Any help in leaning me towards the right direction would be nice, i read from a few places that a BOV could throw this code easily, problem is idk if that synapse piece is a BOV. and also the o2 sensor was that they replaced when i first brought it back to dealer. if you guys see any aftermarket pieces here, please let me know! the dealer wasnt very good about telling me, and told me the car was stock.

[speedfreak44]

Check for dp as well. You need to get an access port asap and check for upgraded internals for the hpfp

The bpv/bov you have is a good one. Check to see if a big 1" diameter tube is running to the intake from it. Looks to be set to vta from your pic

Edit: actually looks to be set to bpv hard to tell on phone

[Gnarland]

ill try to take a better picture of it, luckily my father is a mechanic and were putting it on lift tomorrow to check for any sort of dp leak or crack. and when you say access port whats that? sorry like i said im very noobish, me and my dad just started doing this together, its my first real project car. and internals for the hpfp, i dont know what that is either. :[ and is it a BOV, or a BPV or DV?

also, im going to a mazda dealer to run the CEL right now, ill post results soon. Before i was having a general dealer do it, and like 20 diff reasons came up, the girl on the phone said that they have a better mazda reader. Also if it helps, this car IS under CPO warranty. BUT i dont know what exactly would void warranty. Also worst case scenario if removing the BPV/BOV/DV removes code or is just a better answer i will do so. I just want no lights, i dont care if i have to downgrade.

[speedfreak44]

I am shocked they CPO that car.
Accessport is cobb accessport. Google search Mazda accessport and donate so you can pick up a used one cheap

That synapse valve can be set to vent to atmosphere or bypass so you need a better picture with the intake filter removed

Dv and bpv are the same. Some can be set 50/50 vta

[jeoje]

How are you pulling the codes thrown? Did the car come with an AccessPort, or are you using an app like Torque on your phone? Or did the dealer tell you what it was?

While we can't tell how heavily modified it actually is, it's certainly not stock.

p2096 means the ECU thinks you're running lean. This can happen for many reasons, such as
- bad or incorrectly placed O2 sensor (Need to find out if this car has an aftermarket downpipe -- does it seem pretty loud?)
- an aftermarket SRI without tuning for it
- unmetered air is making it into the intake flow
- possibly the MAF is very dirty
- among others -- hopefully people will comment, but you can also search that code here on the forums

The Synapse is a BOV, so should actually make the car run rich between shifts, rather than lean, more often causing backfires. A couple things to check:
- If you pull the air filter off, is the air straightener installed?
- Ensure the recirc tube on the Turbo Inlet Pipe (TIP) is properly blocked (follow the SRI towards the turbo, you should see another branch off the TIP, that the SRI mates to, and it needs to be properly plugged)

Again, search the forums for your code and you can find other possible things to check as well.

P.S. I'm not very familiar with the Synapse myself, but I don't believe that unit has a bypass mode based on the product page:

Blow off Valves | The official BOV, Synchronic Technology

[speedfreak44]

They used to have a model identical to his that did either bpv or bov. I checked into it and the one that did both had a gray base not black so his is probably a bov.

My money is on the exhaust being the issue.

That cs intake is billet the straighteners can not be removed.

I am going to stop guessing here until you get the new code checked and get the car on a lift to check out the exhaust side.

[Cirruslydakota]

Originally Posted by speedfreak44 I am shocked they CPO that car.

You and me both, did they not open the hood at all? Seems kind of sloppy to me, id check the whole car over.

[Gnarland]

okay Guys, sorry i just got back from mazda dealership here is the code that THEY gave me.

P0421-

Warm up catalyst efficiency below threshold bank.

Failure type - 00
no additional failure type for this DTC

Status - E8 (INDETERMINATE - Warning lamp on)
Fault previously detected but monitor has not completed to determine state with warning lamp on.
diagnostic protocol - 14229


They said it was maybe a CAT issue. I do not know what the dealer used, like i said the General dealer (KEY AUTO ) pulled a p2096 code the first time then i brough it back to KEY and they changed an 02 sensor, (didnt tell me which one in paperwork..) the code came back on and then i brought it to seacoast mazda and they pulled the p0421, Im dropping it off thursday to have a tec really look at it, but tomorrow im putting it on a lift with my dad to examine the exhaust, ill try to snag some pictures of it on a lift, im hoping its not too modded, i dont want it to be a lemon, the car only has under 32k miles :/

[Gnarland]

Here are some more pictures guys, hopefully they help.

[Gnarland]

Thanks for all the help though guys, i will be donating when i get paid since everyone has already been so supportive. I hope i can figure this out, like i said i really love the car so far, and its my first car with under 90k on it. I just want her to run smooth, (also i havent beaten on the thing at all, honestly been babying her,)

Also, i don't quite get though why the cat would go so early, so tomorrow when i throw it on lift ill deff. post pictures and try to see whats up with the DP and such.

[Gnarland]

And as for the BOV, are you guys certain thats what it is? and if so should i just remove it?

[speedfreak44]

It is extremely hard to tell but it looks to be recirculated so it probably is not the issue. Still betting on catless downpipe

Looked on my laptop it is in bpv mode

[jeoje]

Originally Posted by Gnarland And as for the BOV, are you guys certain thats what it is? and if so should i just remove it?

I stand corrected. speedfreak44 is correct that the synapse can run in bypass. Looking more closely at your pictures, it looks like the recirc hose is connected. The hose I'm speaking of is much larger than the 2 smaller hoses (vac) at the top of the BPV. It's the larger one on the bottom of the valve. Make sure that is securely fastened both at the valve and where it connects to the TIP.

From what I've heard, it is a great valve. I'm unsure if it needs periodic service, though, like the Forge V2.

Here's the manual: http://www.synapseengineering.com/su...V%20manual.pdf

Another possible issue is the secondary O2 sensor. AFAIK, it is what helps determine cat functionality, but may also throw p2096.

[acousticdefbot]

you shouldn't need a lift to check for an aftermarket downpipe.

enter here:



take snapshot here:



now if it's the stocker and it's gutted, that's another story. you'll want to get under there to check out the test pipe and the rest of the exhaust. check out your rear motor mount while you're under there and upgrade it if it's stock. if there are other modifications and you're running the stock tune, bad times happen. check on the fuel pump internals and get an accessport as soon as you can. i wouldn't do any spirited driving at all in the meantime.

[Gnarland]

Originally Posted by jeoje I stand corrected. speedfreak44 is correct that the synapse can run in bypass. Looking more closely at your pictures, it looks like the recirc hose is connected. The hose I'm speaking of is much larger than the 2 smaller hoses (vac) at the top of the BPV. It's the larger one on the bottom of the valve. Make sure that is securely fastened both at the valve and where it connects to the TIP. From what I've heard, it is a great valve. I'm unsure if it needs periodic service, though, like the Forge V2. Here's the manual: http://www.synapseengineering.com/su...V%20manual.pdf Another possible issue is the secondary O2 sensor. AFAIK, it is what helps determine cat functionality, but may also throw p2096.

when you say it can run bypass what do you mean? what mode is it in now? i never could tell if the sound was from that, or just having the SRI

Also, i well post pictures of the DP then, ill go outside ina bi t and try to get a good snapshot like you did acousticdefbot. Thanks for the help so far guys! like i said too, the new code its pulling is a 2041. He cleared the CEL tho, and ive driven like 20 miles and its not on right now still.

[Gnarland]

Originally Posted by speedfreak44 It is extremely hard to tell but it looks to be recirculated so it probably is not the issue. Still betting on catless downpipe Looked on my laptop it is in bpv mode

i just reread and saw you said it is in BPV mode. Does that mean its supporting the intake basically? instead of trying to just give me a pshh sound? Just a lil confused on the difference between the two, ive looked into it, but still kind of meh on the whole thing.

[speedfreak44]

Bov mode gives a loud shwoosh sound between shifts and vents (usually) completely to atmosphere

Bpv diverts the pressure back into the intake stream so it does not affect the maf reading. These can also be loud though so don't base stuff just on sound. Yours is definitely a bypass not bov right now.

Synapse does not require cleaning or maintenance or adjusment etc as far as I can recall.

Yours is set up correctly.

Get the pics of the downpipe.

Edit: also donation will give you access to the for sale section, lots of manuals and many other things you can not currently access. The for sale section will more than make up for your donation once you see how well we help each other out here

[Gnarland]

Originally Posted by speedfreak44 Bov mode gives a loud shwoosh sound between shifts and vents (usually) completely to atmosphere Bpv diverts the pressure back into the intake stream so it does not affect the maf reading. These can also be loud though so don't base stuff just on sound. Yours is definitely a bypass not bov right now. Synapse does not require cleaning or maintenance or adjusment etc as far as I can recall. Yours is set up correctly. Get the pics of the downpipe. Edit: also donation will give you access to the for sale section, lots of manuals and many other things you can not currently access. The for sale section will more than make up for your donation once you see how well we help each other out here

Awesome thank you for the help so far, and yes donating will be happening! Thank you for even more info my man! Im about to post some pictures as well, i hope i got the right pipe and shit, liek i said ill have pictures of the exhaust tomorrow, and also i wanted to ask how i can check to see if the previous owner put in any motor mounts.

[Gnarland]

Also how do i switch modes? Ill look at the manual you posted as well, and is BPV mode a healthier option? I just want to make sure the car is at a nice good spot to be daily driven. Im not here to have a racecar just yet

[Gnarland]

And to everyone, be honest please, are all these mods okay for someone as new as me? ive never even greased an intake filter before, but im ready to fucking learn!
Like i keep saying, i just wanna get this thing in a good steady position.

[jeoje]

In your first pic, the shiny silver metal in the top right is just the heat shield. You need to get a shot of the pipe that is under that. Get your camera right down there. Look at acousticdefbot's second pic. The metal in the top right is the same shield, but his shot is under that shield of the pipe with 'cp-e' on it. That pipe is what we need to see.

It is in BPV mode *because* the recirculation tube is installed and the excess boost is routed into the intake stream. If you take that tube off, and it is expelling the excess boost into the air (VTA=vent to air), it is then a blow off valve.

If all that's modified on the car is the intake and BPV, you're *probably* fine -- but any MS3 will benefit from a tune, even if mild. That's what you need the Cobb AccessPort for.

It would behoove you to learn a lot more prior to advancing into further mods to be comfortable.

[Gnarland]

Originally Posted by jeoje In your first pic, the shiny silver metal in the top right is just the heat shield. You need to get a shot of the pipe that is under that. Get your camera right down there. Look at acousticdefbot's second pic. The metal in the top right is the same shield, but his shot is under that shield of the pipe with 'cp-e' on it. That pipe is what we need to see. It is in BPV mode *because* the recirculation tube is installed and the excess boost is routed into the intake stream. If you take that tube off, and it is expelling the excess boost into the air (VTA=vent to air), it is then a blow off valve. If all that's modified on the car is the intake and BPV, you're *probably* fine -- but any MS3 will benefit from a tune, even if mild. That's what you need the Cobb AccessPort for. It would behoove you to learn a lot more prior to advancing into further mods to be comfortable.

awesome, yea its dark now, ill try to take a lot of good pictures tomorrow, and yea i looked into the acessport, is it something i could get used for alot cheaper? cause i was only seeing ones for like 695$

also so far is it looking like i may need a new CAT? since the new code is saying that? or could it still be something else?

[jeoje]

Yes -- if you donate/become VIP, you will have access to the for sale forums and AP's pop up often. You will get a better deal on a used V2 vs. the newer V3 (which is likely what you're finding for $695). You'll usually find them between $300-400 used.

If you have an aftermarket catless DP or a gutted stock DP (gutted means intentionally removing the CAT) then you don't have a CAT to replace . If that's the case, and you're uncomfortable with that level of mod, you could source a stock DP to replace it. But, that's still to be determined.

[tparker14]

if you go vip ppl have them up for sale all the time. Got mine within a week of going vip and paid 325 for a v2.

and you may already upgraded (possibly catless) dp.. possibly causing your cel problem. Not necessarily a bad cat, just non existant.

try and get that photo of the dp.. if it's upgraded you definately want to make sure your fuel pump has been upgraded also, could be why you got the code saying your lean

[speedfreak44]

You do not simply disconnect the bypass tube to vent to atmosphere. Please contact synapse regarding the model because it is not that simple.

Fwiw keep it in bpv mode it will be less headache

Also, some ms3 have been proven to need upgraded fuel pumps even with intakes so do not assume you are safe until you crack open the fuel pump and get an accessport. You are starting down a slippery slope right now. Donate. Read. Read some more.

[Gnarland]

okay thanks for the info. And before i get one of those, do i have to have knowledge of tuning? or does the system do it for me?

also i got my car on the lift today guys, igot some more pictures, i hope i got good ones, didnt really know what exactly to be taking pictures of. i hope you guys can help me diagnose this, cause my dad said he had no idea what the previous owner actually did, cause hes not familiar with modding.

[Gnarland]

Heres some more pictures guys, thanks for all the help. I really really cant wait to solve all this, the first newer car i get is having issues already, just really shitty

[Gnarland]

also my dad said he thought he saw a resinator, but not a cat? so idk? If so i well tell the dealer i got car from to get me whatever stock parts i need.

[Gnarland]

and also, i was seeing alot of CS marked parts under the hood and under neath, if anyone can help me identify any visable mods they see it would be greatly apprecieted. I just want to know everything that was swapped on the car.

[jeoje]

Definitely not the stock downpipe bro. Looks like the CorkSport DP:

MazdaSpeed3 | Mazdaspeed 3 Downpipe

As others have said, you definitely need to check that you have upgraded fuel pump internals and get an AP stat if you want to stay in that state. It *is* possible the ECU is already tuned for these mods, but there's no way to know without an AP and regardless, you need to be able to monitor what's going on.

You don't really need to know how to tune yourself -- you can pay someone else to do that part -- but you DO need to know what to look for regarding certain vitals of the car while tuned.

[speedfreak44]

Let us all take bets on what fuel pump is in there...I have money on corksport at this rate lol.

You might have gotten a pretty good deal on this car. I hope the car was flashed to stock so when you get an AP you will be good to go.

Contact stratified tuning or freektune or any of the others on the forum here. Plenty of good e tuners for your needs at good prices.

I also bet he has a CS tmic too. Should check for that.

[Gnarland]

well at this point i want to remove any mods if i have too. I dont want this DP in my car if it could be throwing the p2041 code. ive driven 100 miles now and the CEL isnt on still but, i know its probably going to pop back on.

[jeoje]

The only other things I can see from the pictures; looks like you have a full CorkSport(CS) exhaust (are there two exhaust tips at the back or 1?) and a CS rear motor mount (this is fine and would want to run one of these even if you were fully stock).

Would be worth pulling the shroud off of the TMIC to see what that is as well. TMIC (top mount intercooler) is underneath the black shroud in the middle of your engine bay.

[Gnarland]

Originally Posted by speedfreak44 Let us all take bets on what fuel pump is in there...I have money on corksport at this rate lol. You might have gotten a pretty good deal on this car. I hope the car was flashed to stock so when you get an AP you will be good to go. Contact stratified tuning or freektune or any of the others on the forum here. Plenty of good e tuners for your needs at good prices. I also bet he has a CS tmic too. Should check for that.

Yeah the previous ownedonly had the car for a year. he clearly did extensive modding. Ill work on getting an AP asap, but i really dont have alot of money right now. Im paying a pretty penny for the car already, so like i said the dealer i got it from ( a gen dealer) failed to tell me what wasnt stock. I mean the car clearly has a ton of money put into it, but whats the use of keeping them if its making my car shittier

[jeoje]

Originally Posted by Gnarland well at this point i want to remove any mods if i have too. I dont want this DP in my car if it could be throwing the p2041 code. ive driven 100 miles now and the CEL isnt on still but, i know its probably going to pop back on.

Fair enough, but keep in mind, a downpipe swap is not a job for the feint of heart. My personal opinion is that your money would be better spent on an AP and a tune. Just need to figure out what fuel pump internals are in the car.

[speedfreak44]

Once you check for fuel pump internal upgrade. Confirm you have it then get an AP and a $50 flash tune you will have a pretty fun car with lots of money worth of upgrades. How much did you pay if you don't mind me asking

[Gnarland]

Originally Posted by jeoje The only other things I can see from the pictures; looks like you have a full CorkSport(CS) exhaust (are there two exhaust tips at the back or 1?) and a CS rear motor mount (this is fine and would want to run one of these even if you were fully stock). Would be worth pulling the shroud off of the TMIC to see what that is as well. TMIC (top mount intercooler) is underneath the black shroud in the middle of your engine bay.

okay cool thanks! and yea it had 2 tips, i didnt notice if it had cs on it though. The motor mount is good to hear cause that was going to be my first mod anyways lol.

ill try to pull of f that shroud near the TMIC, also how do i check for fuel pump upgrade? and being honest does the car have anything skeptical looking? or did the previous owner do a decent job?

And im paying 342 a month for the car, my loan is for 18,980 w/o interest. im only 22, and didnt need a cosign, i make like 1800 a month and live at home, so i got lucky. the car has 32k miles (just broke last night) and is in FLAWLESS condition.

[jeoje]

Just from what can be seen, there are close to a couple grand in performance mods on the car. I'd be curious to know what you paid as well if you don't mind us asking, especially considering the low miles.

[Gnarland]

The actual car itself was 17,900, or something like that, i have full coverage and gap on it.

my interest rate was like 7.9 or something idfk, basically before interest though its shy under 19 gs

[brandonnicholson]

Hit up @Justin@Freektune; hes in the manchester area and may be able to help out. I def wouldnt pull the downpipe to put a stock one in. Youll hate yourself if you end up going to put the corksport one back in down the road lol.