please help! im new to this whole thing!

[Gnarland]

Originally Posted by brandonnicholson Hit up @Justin@Freektune; hes in the manchester area and may be able to help out. I def wouldnt pull the downpipe to put a stock one in. Youll hate yourself if you end up going to put the corksport one back in down the road lol.

awesome! and yea like i said, i only talked about removing it because i dont want a CEL error.

If we can solve the issue without removing mods, then YES PLEASE.

[jeoje]

There are a couple of ways to tell if you have upgraded fuel pump internals that I can think of:
1. Pull the HPFP, take it apart and look at the internals -- search the forum, there are plenty of good guides on how to pull the HPFP and it's not horribly difficult
2. Get an AP and monitor pressure. With upgraded internals, you should see 1800+ PSI when going WOT

You should definitely drive gingerly until you know what internals are installed and have someone experienced check the tune.

[Gnarland]

so from what i can see though, did i get a good deal on the car at least? lol

[jeoje]

I would say so -- as long as you treat the mods installed with respect.

[Gnarland]

Originally Posted by jeoje There are a couple of ways to tell if you have upgraded fuel pump internals that I can think of: 1. Pull the HPFP, take it apart and look at the internals -- search the forum, there are plenty of good guides on how to pull the HPFP and it's not horribly difficult 2. Get an AP and monitor pressure. With upgraded internals, you should see 1800+ PSI when going WOT You should definitely drive gingerly until you know what internals are installed and have someone experienced check the tune.

okay, ill try searching and see if i can give you guys an answer on that. question though, could the code be popping solely because the car may not be tuned?

cause from what most of you are saying, getting this AP well be a breath of fresh air haha

Originally Posted by jeoje I would say so -- as long as you treat the mods installed with respect.

i baby the hell out of the car, i babied my VW when i had it too. I was going to take it to track, but ill wait on the tune and shit.

Originally Posted by jeoje The only other things I can see from the pictures; looks like you have a full CorkSport(CS) exhaust (are there two exhaust tips at the back or 1?) and a CS rear motor mount (this is fine and would want to run one of these even if you were fully stock). Would be worth pulling the shroud off of the TMIC to see what that is as well. TMIC (top mount intercooler) is underneath the black shroud in the middle of your engine bay.

also is just the dp changed? or does my car have a full aftermarket exhaust?

Originally Posted by jeoje The only other things I can see from the pictures; looks like you have a full CorkSport(CS) exhaust (are there two exhaust tips at the back or 1?) and a CS rear motor mount (this is fine and would want to run one of these even if you were fully stock). Would be worth pulling the shroud off of the TMIC to see what that is as well. TMIC (top mount intercooler) is underneath the black shroud in the middle of your engine bay.

also is just the dp changed? or does my car have a full aftermarket exhaust?

[jeoje]

Oh, I don't think you should baby it In fact, when you get everything straight, you should have as much "fun" as possible -- I just mean getting it straight and keeping an eye on things so you don't accidentally pop your motor when you're not paying attention.

I still can't believe they warrantied that thing lol.


BTW, the p2096 code really could have been a bad O2 sensor. While I can't be certain and you'll need more help diagnosing, I've heard of folks turning off the p2041 code with the AP. Sometimes it's a side-effect of the aftermarket DP.

You have a full aftermarket exhaust. Because racecar.

[Gnarland]

Originally Posted by jeoje Oh, I don't think you should baby it In fact, when you get everything straight, you should have as much "fun" as possible -- I just mean getting it straight and keeping an eye on things so you don't accidentally pop your motor when you're not paying attention. I still can't believe they warrantied that thing lol. BTW, the p2096 code really could have been a bad O2 sensor. While I can't be certain and you'll need more help diagnosing, I've heard of folks turning off the p2041 code with the AP. Sometimes it's a side-effect of the aftermarket DP. You have a full aftermarket exhaust. Because racecar.

hahah yeah, the cPO only is covering powertrain at this point, and yea like i said, thhey cleared the 2041 code and its been a bit and it isnt back on, at this point ill make sure to tune her up asap. the mods can stay if you guys think everything looks okay.

also, ill make sure to have some fun her her dont you worry! its already the funnest car ive ever had hahahah

like i said too, if anyone asks i want to know exactly what was modded so i can tell them as well haha. and as for the cs series stuff, is that a good brand to stay with?

[Gnarland]

The last thing i want out of this whole process is to be making payments on a car thats basically a lemon, or was modded so bad that its already becoming a lemon. I dont know how realiable mazdas actually are, but ive heard good things.

i also have a question regarding the exhaust, do i just have the short pipe dp? or the cs long catted dp?

cause like i said before im very new to all this, and idek if my car has a cat converter or not

[jeoje]

Originally Posted by Gnarland like i said too, if anyone asks i want to know exactly what was modded so i can tell them as well haha. and as for the cs series stuff, is that a good brand to stay with?

Yes, CS is an excellent brand. From what we've gleaned so far you have:
- CorkSport Turbo Back Exhaust (consisting of what seems to be a long high-flow CAT dp,and catback exhaust)
- CS SRI
- Synapse BPV
- CS rear motor mount

Still need to find out if you have upgraded internals and TMIC. Surprisingly, it looks like the passenger motor mount is stock (from what I can tell in the pictures). Can't tell what the transmission motor mount is until you pull the battery box and top plate, but if the PMM is stock, I'd guess the TMM is as well.

Originally Posted by Gnarland The last thing i want out of this whole process is to be making payments on a car thats basically a lemon, or was modded so bad that its already becoming a lemon. I dont know how realiable mazdas actually are, but ive heard good things.

There are plenty of folks on this forum alone that have 100K+ miles on their heavily modified MS3's. They are reliable, but like any car, you need to maintain them and pay attention to any potential issues.

[Gnarland]

Originally Posted by jeoje Yes, CS is an excellent brand. From what we've gleaned so far you have: - CorkSport Turbo Back Exhaust (consisting of what seems to be a long high-flow CAT dp,and catback exhaust) - CS SRI - Synapse BPV - CS rear motor mount Still need to find out if you have upgraded internals and TMIC. Surprisingly, it looks like the passenger motor mount is stock (from what I can tell in the pictures). Can't tell what the transmission motor mount is until you pull the battery box and top plate, but if the PMM is stock, I'd guess the TMM is as well.

okay awesome, thats good to hear.
ill try to get some pictures of that stuff as well.

Originally Posted by jeoje There are a couple of ways to tell if you have upgraded fuel pump internals that I can think of: 1. Pull the HPFP, take it apart and look at the internals -- search the forum, there are plenty of good guides on how to pull the HPFP and it's not horribly difficult 2. Get an AP and monitor pressure. With upgraded internals, you should see 1800+ PSI when going WOT You should definitely drive gingerly until you know what internals are installed and have someone experienced check the tune.

and as to checking the internals, what exactly is an HPFP. ill look at a guide today and see if i can get to em. Im hoping the previous owner did upgrade it, and that all she needs is a tune.

Also back to a previous picture i posted, What exactly is the CS part im looking at in this picture?

its right on top of where the transmission piece is that click it in gear

[Gnarland]

?

[Gnarland]

also im donating tonight, thanks for all the help guys, ive already learned so much in the past few days. Well worth the 25$ just cause of the help.

[jeoje]

That is a short shift plate. Makes it so you don't need to move your shifter as far between gears. Basically, it creates more physical effort to row from gear to gear, but with a shorter throw so your shifts can be faster. It is a very popular mod and comes down to personal preference. I ran the JBR version.

[Easter Bunny]

That is a short shift plate

You need to.get a tune and confirm that you have upgraded fuel pump internals. Don't remove the downpipe. Just baby the car unroll you get a tune.

[Gnarland]

awesome, thank you so much guys! ill post back later with more info!

[Gnarland]

Heres a few more pictures, i took off that black casing and took a picture. is the TMIC the piece thats inbetween the black casing, and the engine?

i also got some pictures of exhaust tips and such.

[Gnarland]

it didnt look like it had been changed at all, the screws seemed like theyve never been touched.

[jeoje]

Yes, looks like the stock TMIC. Also appears you have the stock axle back part of the exhaust, but everything forward of that, based on earlier pics, looks corksport.

[speedfreak44]

The catback portion of the exhaust is oem not just the axle back.

The tmic is oem.

You can not assume you have hpfp internals with 1800psi readings as my stockers did that as well. The only real way is to remove the pump and do a tear down otherwise you are running on borrowed time. Monitoring with the AP is your next best option.

I suggest donating then finding a nator somewhere close to you to have them assist with just making sure things are good to go and possibly looking at a datalog or 2 for you once you get the AP.

[Gnarland]

Originally Posted by jeoje Yes, looks like the stock TMIC. Also appears you have the stock axle back part of the exhaust, but everything forward of that, based on earlier pics, looks corksport.

okay cool, so now i just need to find out about the internals and such, and pick myself up an AP asap right?

thanks for being so patient with me to guys. lol, i build pcs for a hobby, and i'm learning that cars and computers aren't so different then they seem. haha

Originally Posted by speedfreak44 The catback portion of the exhaust is oem not just the axle back. The tmic is oem. You can not assume you have hpfp internals with 1800psi readings as my stockers did that as well. The only real way is to remove the pump and do a tear down otherwise you are running on borrowed time. Monitoring with the AP is your next best option. I suggest donating then finding a nator somewhere close to you to have them assist with just making sure things are good to go and possibly looking at a datalog or 2 for you once you get the AP.

Okay cool, and so if part of the exhaust is OEM, do i not have a full redone exhaust?

it seems like i only have a couple peices

so since ive gotten a couple different answers regarding checking out the fuel pump internals, should i actually try to look and see if its upgraded myself? or wait on an AP.

At this rate itll maybe be 2-3 weeks before i can afford an AP

[acousticdefbot]

that downpipe has been fiddled with. and your dealer told you the car was stock. fuel pump internals and an accessport are your priority now. lucky for you they are a priority regardless. if you're lucky the internals are already there. i would go back to the dealer and ask them politely why they told you the car was stock. they potentially let you drive away in a time bomb.

[wdautrem]

In addition to letting you load a tune to take advantage of those performance parts, an Access Port will let you disable CELs if a catless downpipe is what is turning it on.

[Gnarland]

Originally Posted by acousticdefbot that downpipe has been fiddled with. and your dealer told you the car was stock. fuel pump internals and an accessport are your priority now. lucky for you they are a priority regardless. if you're lucky the internals are already there. i would go back to the dealer and ask them politely why they told you the car was stock. they potentially let you drive away in a time bomb.

yeah ive already made the dealer feel like garbage, they were really shady anyways, ill never go back. I only went there cause this car was a snag, and its a car ive wanted for years now hahah.

Ill deff work on checking the internals, and like i said im going ot get an AP asap.

Originally Posted by wdautrem In addition to letting you load a tune to take advantage of those performance parts, an Access Port will let you disable CELs if a catless downpipe is what is turning it on.

Yeah i still havent really gotten an answer towards if its Catless or not, just what type of exhaust it was. I may be stupid though and missing something or read over something

[Raider]

Total CPO fraud by the dealer for sure.

[wdautrem]

The lump right before your 2nd O2 bung appears to be the high flow cat comparing it to the pictures on CorkSports page. It looks like the OEM piece has the flex section in a different location.

[Gnarland]

Originally Posted by wdautrem The lump right before your 2nd O2 bung appears to be the high flow cat comparing it to the pictures on CorkSports page. It looks like the OEM piece has the flex section in a different location.

ive seen alot of people talking about these Bung things.

If you dont mind explaining exactly what that is and where it is?

[wdautrem]

The O2 sensor is that spark plug looking thing stuck into the exhaust pipe with the wire coming from it. It monitors the amount of oxygen in the exhaust stream and the ECU uses it to 'close the loop' in your fueling. A 'bung' just refers to the threaded hole the sensor is screwed into.

[Gnarland]

Originally Posted by wdautrem The O2 sensor is that spark plug looking thing stuck into the exhaust pipe with the wire coming from it. It monitors the amount of oxygen in the exhaust stream and the ECU uses it to 'close the loop' in your fueling. A 'bung' just refers to the threaded hole the sensor is screwed into.

oh okay! so im assuming the 02 sensor in the engine bay is the front one? and the one down near exhaust is rear?

Also would someone mind maybe pointing me in the right direction towards a fuel pump upgrade if i do need? how much they typically cost and such? i am kind of broke atm, but i can save some cash. It seems like first things first get an AP though before everything else

[Gnarland]

man i kind of wish this car was stock too be honest, i would have treaded alot differently if i had known all this was changed. ive watched a couple vids on getting to the fuel pump, but i dont have enough confidence in myself to try and get to it at this point, it seems a little confusing. It sucks to be making payments on this car, and know it may not be as kosher as it should :/

Ill just have to put aside a day next weekend, and hopefully my dad can help me out and get to it.

[Gnarland]

I also had a question regarding maintenance as well guys, With my gti it really didnt need anything other then typical oil change and simple shit, anything different with the speed 3? Am i supposed to lube up the intake filter or anything yearly

[wdautrem]

Like some of the other guys have said, you may be able to figure out if you have a fuel pump without tearing stuff apart by monitoring your fuel pressure with an AP or other diag tool.

The old avatar was moar bettar FWIW.

[Gnarland]

Originally Posted by wdautrem Like some of the other guys have said, you may be able to figure out if you have a fuel pump without tearing stuff apart by monitoring your fuel pressure with an AP or other diag tool. The old avatar was moar bettar FWIW.

i got in trouble for the old avatar :[

hahaha and okay a buddy just told me he has a diag tool to check fuel pressure!

so guys, i need your help. What numbers am i going to be looking for?

[jeoje]

Once you donate, you could nicely ask in the Nator New England section if someone is near you and may be able to lend you a hand with checking the FP internals and identifying parts on your car.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f551/

The MS3 has basically the same maintenance. You only need to oil the filter if it is an oiled filter, not needed if a dry filter -- you'll just need to clean it periodically.

[Raider]

Shit man, the mods are pretty sweet. Lots of $ saved. But a virgin is always best. Giggity.

[Gnarland]

Originally Posted by Raider Shit man, the mods are pretty sweet. Lots of $ saved. But a virgin is always best. Giggity.

hahaha Cant deny that.

My buddy is going to be meeting me in an hour or so with a tool to check the fuel pressure.

what do the stock numbers look like?
and what should i be looking for to see if the internals were upgraded

[specvspeedfreak]

How is it you are a son of a mechanic and don't know shit about cars?

[acousticdefbot]

Originally Posted by Gnarland hahaha Cant deny that. My buddy is going to be meeting me in an hour or so with a tool to check the fuel pressure. what do the stock numbers look like? and what should i be looking for to see if the internals were upgraded

here is a good how-to. if running autotech internals they will be marked as such on the cylinder sleeve. it's likely similar with other aftermarket internals. as a general rule of thumb, under wot, you do not want to drop below 1600 psi.

[predapio]

Welcome to the nuthouse homo.

Get an AP....like now.


I'll wait.



GO....

[Gnarland]

Originally Posted by specvspeedfreak How is it you are a son of a mechanic and don't know shit about cars?

I dont know dude? maybe because i wasnt into fucking cars growing up? Me and my dad just started talking and actually bonding last year and im 22. Im here looking for help, not to explain my issues with my father,

Originally Posted by acousticdefbot here is a good how-to. if running autotech internals they will be marked as such on the cylinder. it's likely similar with other aftermarket internals. as a general rule of thumb, under wot, you do not want to drop below 1600 psi.

thanks man! ill look at it now!

[Gnarland]

Originally Posted by acousticdefbot here is a good how-to. if running autotech internals they will be marked as such on the cylinder sleeve. it's likely similar with other aftermarket internals. as a general rule of thumb, under wot, you do not want to drop below 1600 psi.

so if the fuel internals are stock, 1600 psi is what im looking for?