Rod Job

[SternRitteR]

Before anyone moans , the search didnt bring up much with search terms "rod job ,rod change"

There is a little bit of confusion probably on my part what is needed for a rod job , since i have a gen2 and not the salarys of half the UK guys a hybrid is about as far as i would go.

So what would i need just for a rod job , links to edge would be nice .

Im thinking:
rods
oil pan gasket
rod shells

Who has done just a rod job .

[helmetface]

[mxlplx71]

you must pull the head, and balance shafts

[6Y MAZDA]

you wanna give me a rod job?

[ibcrusn]

Just need to search other terms......

Drop-in forged internals

But I'll take a rod job when you're done.

[SternRitteR]

Originally Posted by ibcrusn Just need to search other terms...... Drop-in forged internals But I'll take a rod job when you're done.

Seems a can of worms , thanks anyway .

[ibcrusn]

If you plan it out ahead of time and have your ducks in a row it really doesn't look too bad. If you have a damage free reasonably low mileage engine it's an option. If the car is new to you there's a lot of potential in the car before you need forged bits.

[SternRitteR]

The car is new to me ,now on 55k .
I just need to fit my downpipe after 2 failed attempts to be fully bolted .
I wouldn't personally do the job ,I just wanted a parts list then I'd send it to the shop ,however if my bores are screwed I'd be better honing then needing pistons .

Remember I'm in the UK so it would be extra downtime waiting for added parts .

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[Vansquish]

Originally Posted by SternRitteR The car is new to me ,now on 55k . I just need to fit my downpipe after 2 failed attempts to be fully bolted . I wouldn't personally do the job ,I just wanted a parts list then I'd send it to the shop ,however if my bores are screwed I'd be better honing then needing pistons . Remember I'm in the UK so it would be extra downtime waiting for added parts . Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

I hope you have a tune and high pressure fuel pump (HPFP) internals to go with that downpipe. If not, you're looking at a blown motor that'll need a lot more than just a "rod job."

[SternRitteR]

Don't worry like I said just the downpipe to go ,the tune is already on the cobb ready and waiting .

Car has all the supporting mods and fuel pressure is at a nice 1850psi when the current tune was finished .

End goal is hybrid that is all ,hence the rod job questions .


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[6Y MAZDA]

wtf do you mean "hybrid"? you tryna make it a prius?

[Agent_Orange]

All the engine building info on this site and you couldn't find anything?

Kill yourself.

[Vansquish]

Originally Posted by SternRitteR Don't worry like I said just the downpipe to go ,the tune is already on the cobb ready and waiting . Car has all the supporting mods and fuel pressure is at a nice 1850psi when the current tune was finished . End goal is hybrid that is all ,hence the rod job questions . Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

Also...how can you say, "don't worry" when you say things like this: "the tune is already on the cobb ready and waiting" ?

To me, that implies you've put a bunch of mods on the car and are just assuming that things will hold together until you finally have all the parts on the car and then tune it. That's not a wise course of action (obviously). You need to tune for each of the flow mods that you put on the car to avoid damaging the motor.

By "hybrid," I assume you mean a K04 hybrid of some sort, like the BNR series, correct?

[SternRitteR]

Some people don't read ,I said originally I searched a couple of search terms hence starting the thread .
Read again I said the downpipe tune is ready and waiting for when I fit it ,you guys should no that boost needs to be controlled .

My other mods are safely tuned via cobb ,this isn't the issue .

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[torquemaniac]

Ill send you a part list and some link when I get home tonight...

[mxlplx71]

you said your getting 1850psi when the tune is finished.
which set of internals do you have?
i swapped rods and pistons with the block in the car, took about 40 hours over 3 days.
it can be done.

[Vansquish]

Originally Posted by SternRitteR Some people don't read ,I said originally I searched a couple of search terms hence starting the thread . Read again I said the downpipe tune is ready and waiting for when I fit it ,you guys should no that boost needs to be controlled . My other mods are safely tuned via cobb ,this isn't the issue . Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

I'm not sure if that's directed at me, but how can you have a tune ready for parts that aren't even on the car? To properly tune the DISI, you have to incrementally tune for parts as they're added. By your statement, you're planning on simply using a canned tune of some sort.

[SternRitteR]

Originally Posted by Vansquish I'm not sure if that's directed at me, but how can you have a tune ready for parts that aren't even on the car? To properly tune the DISI, you have to incrementally tune for parts as they're added. By your statement, you're planning on simply using a canned tune of some sort.

Sorry you right ,yes its a base tune derived from my current one .Obviously it will take a few revisions to get right I aint a noob .

I Don't know how to double quote on tapatalk ,but my current tune is done it took about 5 revisions and its well ... Amazing .

Thanks for the incoming parts list .:thumbup:

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[lnumbp]

Have you upgraded the factory high pressure fuel pump?

[torquemaniac]

Originally Posted by mxlplx71 you said your getting 1850psi when the tune is finished. which set of internals do you have? i swapped rods and pistons with the block in the car, took about 40 hours over 3 days. it can be done.

Did you replace the timing chain cover seal (gasket), when you did the swap?

As per Mazda manual, this seal should be replaced (R) like the valve cover seal, but I did not replace the valve cover seal when I did work on the valve cover, and everything is OK...

I did a lot research and planing to do the swap this summer, but nowhere did I see someone replace this seal!?!?

[mxlplx71]

Originally Posted by torquemaniac Did you replace the timing chain cover seal (gasket), when you did the swap? As per Mazda manual, this seal should be replaced (R) like the valve cover seal, but I did not replace the valve cover seal when I did work on the valve cover, and everything is OK... I did a lot research and planing to do the swap this summer, but nowhere did I see someone replace this seal!?!?

i did, and the vvt, chain, ect.
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...forged-142776/

[SternRitteR]

Originally Posted by lnumbp Have you upgraded the factory high pressure fuel pump?

Tried and tested Autotech ,the gen2 really does hit the stock limits pretty fast .
In my case it took a cobb stage 1 ,corksport stage 2 intake and custom downpipe back for it to shit itself .

Then I got the hpfp and tmic ,then a proper tune targeting 19psi

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[MazdaBoy2.3]

19 psi. Pshhhhh. Sissy.

Lol

On a side note, is there a reason you think you need rods? Planning a bt?

[SternRitteR]

Originally Posted by MazdaBoy2.3 19 psi. Pshhhhh. Sissy. Lol On a side note, is there a reason you think you need rods? Planning a bt?

Well we all know that these turbos don't last forever so I'll be going ko6 hybrid ,then I'll want to run it to the Max boost wise .

I have the most powerful mps in my city with my 19psi hah ,can't say any other cars have to come close to me so far either .Although more boost is better of course .

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[6Y MAZDA]

And what city would that be?

[SternRitteR]

I'm in England so its not difficult tbh ,all the others I know off are standard ish .
I do have a few tasty European cars to play with over here though ,england is the land of the hot hatch .

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[torquemaniac]

Here is my part list for the rod swap :

- Head gasket (X1)
- Head stud/bolts (X10)
- Crankshaft friction washer (X3)
- Crankshaft bolt (X1)
- Timing chain cover gasket (X1)
- Exhaust cam friction washer (X1)
- Timing chain cover oil seal (X1)
- Coolant pump gasket (X1)
- Connecting rod journal bearing (as needed)
- DTC timing bolt
- Cams timing tool
- Balance shaft delete kit

Here is a nice thread about a drop-in rod swap :

My Pop 'n drop build

I also joined the engine work shop manual

As a side note, If you keep the OEM pistons, you will need to machine/grind the head of the rods to make it fit with the piston...look at the link below for more details :

K1 Rods with Stock Pistons

[torquemaniac]

Another link about the rod end :

Rods for OEM pistons - No Machining Required

[SternRitteR]

Originally Posted by torquemaniac Here is my part list for the rod swap : - Head gasket (X1) - Head stud/bolts (X10) - Crankshaft friction washer (X3) - Crankshaft bolt (X1) - Timing chain cover gasket (X1) - Exhaust cam friction washer (X1) - Timing chain cover oil seal (X1) - Coolant pump gasket (X1) - Connecting rod journal bearing (as needed) - DTC timing bolt - Cams timing tool - Balance shaft delete kit Here is a nice thread about a drop-in rod swap : My Pop 'n drop build I also joined the engine work shop manual As a side note, If you keep the OEM pistons, you will need to machine/grind the head of the rods to make it fit with the piston...look at the link below for more details : K1 Rods with Stock Pistons

Originally Posted by torquemaniac Another link about the rod end : Rods for OEM pistons - No Machining Required

thanks for that i will have a read now im bored at work .

I am supposed to be helping the mrs buy a impreza wrx ,but i think id rather put the money to this .

[SternRitteR]

right guys i blew the turbo seals yesterday ,so this will be on hold until i can fit the bnr3 .

Once shes running il re-evaluate if i want to carry on throwing ££ at the car.

Before anyone says il need a list aslong as my arm to get the turbo running ,my plan is to run 20psi to redline so all il need is ,downpipe ,3port ,coolant turbo braided hose ,2.25" > 2" silicone reducer for my corksport stage 2 .

I have had a downpipe for a few months just not fitted and stratified seem to be out of stock for the 3 port