Rough Start up After Autotech Install
 

Yesterday I installed Autotech internals in my stock fuel pump. I followed all of the directions closely and let the car idle for 20 minutes after the first start up.

I went out for a start up this morning and the car took about 10 seconds to crank over. The gas cap light came on and then went off and it finally started up. After start up everything was normal. Idle around 450 psi, still breaking it in so no WOT psi measurements yet. Went for a short 15 minute drive. No stalling or irregular rpms.

I got home and let it sit for an hour. I started it again with the same issue. It's almost like it's not getting enough fuel initially.

Any ideas what might be causing this?

Maybe the fuel line connections didn't go on properly?
You could feel around underthem for for leaking gas

I checked and heard a little gurgling. There was some fuel leak from the bottom nut. I am going to tighten it and hopefully that solves the problem.

Thanks @speed23

Just did mine as well, had a slight hesitation when it started but that was it. 200 miles in to mine and no issues. Did you turn the key in to the "on" position after the install and listen for the in tank pump to prime the system?

I had to do it twice, after the first "prime" i could still hear that there was air in the system, after the second time it sounded normal, like how it sounds every time you turn the key and hear the pump kick on.

i cringe hearing internal install problems, hope you get the problem resolved.

Take them out, clean repeat install, tighten the bolts evenly. Time > 6k engine.


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I can't get the damn nut all the way up on the bottom bolt of the fuel pump.

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the bolts are weak.... be careful. Do what Rawr said.

The connection is probably not seated right. Take off and make sure it seats up into th connection properly re tighten.

Does anyone know if the nut threads all the way up the furl pump bolt. I can't get it over all of the threads!!!

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u meaning the brass fitting under the pump? If you are, you don't need to get the nut ALL the way up the threads. Don't force it up the threads more than 3/4 of the way

Yes, it should bolt right up.

Dayyaum, every time I see a thread about internals it's usually a probrem. I guess that goes back to people that don't have problems don't usually post about it. :shrug:

Wish the CP-E option wasn't such a ball crusher money wise.

you might have air in your fuel system still which can casue the engine to run real bogged but it should eventually go away.

OP-take it all out and then reinstall. You clean the fuck out of everything?

Ok I took it all out again and cleaned everything up. Seems to not be leaking anymore. I feel like a pro now (at least for this install). Thanks for everyone's help.

And this isn't correct if it persists longer than ~2 mins (throwin #'s). The lines can ingest air connected....

actually it can go longer than 2 minutes seen it myself i work with engines everyday.

Well good for you, but if it goes on longer than that you have more issues. @blacknight87

How many of these pumps have you done?

if you followed the autotech instructions and didn't use oil when you put the o-rings back together, you probably cut an o-ring and the pump is losing pressure which is why you're having trouble starting to the car. (ask me how I know lol) But it looks like it works now so congrats.

Well unfortunately I still have a small leak coming from the nut attaching to the lower bolt on the fuel pump. I tried removing the pump four times, cleaning repeat all of the steps for swapping internals. I'm at a loss. Might be time to stock out and head to the stealership.

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When you first removed that nut did you accidently loosen the part it bolts to? Mine was on so tight I actually loosened the part on the bottom of the fuel pump, try tightening that bolt or nut or whatever it is

Yeah I did check to make sure that bolt was tight into the pump. At this point I don't want to mess around with a fuel leak.

I bet it's not seated correctly on that nut. Get with NATOR there. They can dbl/triple chk w you

I'm almost 100% positive its not seated and I can't get it to seat correctly. Car is already back to stock this evening. Taking into the dealer in the morning. Need an oil change anyway. I'll see if they will give me synthetic if I ask for it since that is a hot topic.

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Are the fuel pressures normal/good/back to where they were with the stock internals? I'm getting at wondering if any permanent damage was done to the cylinder part of the CDFP.

Fuel pressures were normal at idle to slightly above normal while driving. I have an AP now, so when I get it back I will tune it properly.

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No, he's asking if your idea and pressure are back to normal since u put the stock internals in. Or did u leave the AT's in to take to the dealer?

I left the AT's in.

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ruh roh. I'm installing my internals on the Air Force Base this afternoon in South Tampa.

Everything went fine with the install just make sure the bolt at the bottom of the fuel pump doesn't move when you tighten the nut. You should be able to hand thread the nut three quarters of the way up the bolt. And for the love of god don't cross-thread it!

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The line on the bottom of the pump is the high-pressure hardline to the fuel rail. The connection at the bottom of the pump is a check valve, and the line from it to the fuel rail has a compression connection. The nut is not supposed to thread all the way up. It should, however, be able to thread almost all the way by hand, and you just have to use a wrench to tighten it up. If it is leaking, pull the pump and look for damage on the check valve and the compression head of the fuel line.

Got it back from the dealer. They said nothing was leaking. I'm guessing I tightened it enough before I took it in. If it starts leaking again I probably need a new hardline. Has anyone installed a new hardline? If so, what's the part number and was it a bitch to do.

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