Silly question

[JeepJunky33]

So I just picked up my 2012 MS3 from the dealer Sunday. It's my first one and I love it!

I can already feel the turbo limiter in 1st and 2nd gear. How do I get rid of it?
It the Cobb access prot the only way?

[adlpb]

Search brownie.

And yes

[Code Monkey]

Catless downpipe will get you there.

[crankshaft]

You might wanna avoid beating up a brand new car for a few miles.

[JeepJunky33]

Yeah I need to do that. and Im honestly trying to not beat up on it, but I come from and jeep and the acceleration is addicting. How many miles does it take for a clutch to break in? 500mile right? or is that a myth?

Lets be honest it's a lease anyway. after 3 years its going back so no major mods.

[JDR767]

Link to all ultimate resouce threads

Read.
Read.
Read.

[adlpb]

Looks like you failed twice today.

Your question had already been answered here. In that thread, you were also warned not to lease...

New Guy Here Question

And fuck the break in period. I drove my MS3 and my evo WOT as I left the dealership. If you want your engine to get settled then you have to go accross all the RPM ranges, not drive like a granny under 3K

[Blackspeed]

If you searched, you would also realize that traction is a prblem and it's a waste of time to increase the boost in 1st and second.

[ricknm]

you leased a mazdaspeed 3? Mazda doesnt even offer leasing programs on speeds. How did you lease one?? Im very curious, because if you are telling the truth, then I would love to know what leasing programs the dealer used, so I can have my dealer look into it.


P.S. read your owners man. Break in = 600 miles, no racing the engine, no constant rpm.

[adlpb]

Lol

What's "racing the engine"

[ricknm]

Thats how they have it written in the owners manual. Im assuming it means, dont beat the shit out of the engine. But I dont think they would write that in the book.

[voltron]

I beat my shit up straight off the lot. My pu runs like Seabiscut on crack.

[ricknm]

It does say its not that important, but they recommend it. Im still curious as to how OP leased a speed3

[4G63]

Originally Posted by adlpb And fuck the break in period. I drove my MS3 and my evo WOT as I left the dealership. If you want your engine to get settled then you have to go accross all the RPM ranges, not drive like a granny under 3K

Forgot you got that white X. Smart man. Looks like the modding happened quick lol

[Black Metal]

OP hates tires!

[LakeSTLMS3]

Even if its a lease you can get some basic go fast parts to increase power and have more fun. Once your lease is up, you can sell those parts on here for more than half of what you paid.

AP: $550
SRI and tip - $250
FP internals - $330
RMM - $100
PERM tune: $200

Costs you around $1300 and you gain some nice safe whp with a custom tune. You can then sell everything back for probably around $900. Sounds like a win win to me!

[voltron]

kritz

Looks like a native in your neck of the woods need to be sat down.

[kritz]

Originally Posted by JeepJunky33 So I just picked up my 2012 MS3 from the dealer Sunday. It's my first one and I love it! I can already feel the turbo limiter in 1st and 2nd gear. How do I get rid of it? It the Cobb access prot the only way?

Come down to our Nator NY meet Thursday in Doulaston, and you will meet a few of us ( usually 15-20) and we will splain some thangs to you about the platform and this forum. Check out the Nator NYC/LI thread for location.

Thank you this has been a PSA

[kritz]

Originally Posted by JeepJunky33 Yeah I need to do that. and Im honestly trying to not beat up on it, but I come from and jeep and the acceleration is addicting. How many miles does it take for a clutch to break in? 500mile right? or is that a myth? Lets be honest it's a lease anyway. after 3 years its going back so no major mods.

Not the clutch you need to break in, seating the rings is more like it. Get power supporting mods first, RMM then I highly suggest an oil catch can to keep your intake valves cleaner. SRI,turbo inlet, HPFP.....come down to the meat and greet on thursday.

[JeepJunky33]

So thanks for everyone with the info, Ill go back and read and stalk the forum topics.
As for the lease. yes it is a lease and I got an amazing deal on it. 3yr 12k/yr
I really need to learn to control the car before I make it faster. I never thought coming from a jeep that did 0-60 in 6minutes would be so different.

Im going to look into the local meet up. I'd like to get involved. I build fast cars (mustangs etc.) just never the driver. WOW!

[dbrier]

Originally Posted by LakeSTLMS3 Even if its a lease you can get some basic go fast parts to increase power and have more fun. Once your lease is up, you can sell those parts on here for more than half of what you paid. AP: $550 SRI and tip - $250 FP internals - $330 RMM - $100 PERM tune: $200 Costs you around $1300 and you gain some nice safe whp with a custom tune. You can then sell everything back for probably around $900. Sounds like a win win to me!

Good advice, I'd put the mod list in this order.
RMM - $100
FP internals - $330
AP: $550
SRI and tip - $250
PERM tune: $200

[JeepJunky33]

After this morning I think im going to focus on handleing and control. I am realizing that until I get used to the car, it has plenty of power for me...right now.

[dbrier]

In that case:
better tires (and maybe wheels)
Good alignment
rear sway bar

I still reccomend the Rear Motor Mount (RMM) as a first mod to anyone looking to drive the car hard at all.

[mrbeal]

I know NOOB question but I'm going to ask anyway...
What exactly is the deal with the RMM? I read that everywhere on here but no explanation as to why it needs to be changed. I honestly don't have time to search all my questions, I just keep reading until I see a post that explains what I'm looking for. The RMM question hasn't been answered yet though.

[ricknm]

Its been answered several times. the factory rmm is rather..flimsy?..Drive the car hard and you will notice that the motor tends to dance around alot. With an aftermarket rmm, that problem goes away.

[Sid3wayS]

Floor it in 2nd gear. Switch to 3rd. That loud ass clunk is the reason why. The stock rmm can barely hold it's self up let alone the force of a 1000lbs of motor. The stock one flexes to much allowing the motor to rock back and forth.
Edit: damn you for being quicker

[Easter Bunny]

Originally Posted by mrbeal I know NOOB question but I'm going to ask anyway... What exactly is the deal with the RMM? I read that everywhere on here but no explanation as to why it needs to be changed. I honestly don't have time to search all my questions, I just keep reading until I see a post that explains what I'm looking for. The RMM question hasn't been answered yet though.

<-----wants to groan you soo bad

[mrbeal]

That's the kind of answer that tells me everything I need to know... I'd do that the first time I drive it and wonder what I just broke.

Originally Posted by Sid3wayS Floor it in 2nd gear. Switch to 3rd. That loud ass clunk is the reason why. The stock rmm can barely hold it's self up let alone the force of a 1000lbs of motor. The stock one flexes to much allowing the motor to rock back and forth. Edit: damn you for being quicker

[mrbeal]

Thread hijack in progress...

Crankshaft-

I see you have an '86 T-type, how does it compare to the Speed3? One of my dream cars is an '87 GNX all original with dark tint. What car is sexier?!?

Now back to your regularly scheduled pissing contest...

[crankshaft]

Originally Posted by mrbeal Thread hijack in progress... Crankshaft- I see you have an '86 T-type, how does it compare to the Speed3? One of my dream cars is an '87 GNX all original with dark tint. What car is sexier?!? Now back to your regularly scheduled pissing contest...

Apples/Oranges
they are completely different cars.
The Buick puts down much more power, and does so without interruption. Brake torque it a bit on the line, and when the light hits, you mat it and keep the front tires pointed straight....and hope up your rears are up to the task.
On the other hand, the Buick handles, well, like a Buick. Thats a 2 way street though. A comfy couch that can lay down a 12 second quarter has certain merit.
BY comparison, the Buick is old, loud, sloppy, has a poor stereo setup, etc etc....but for some reason just as fun to drive.
I do prefer the Buick's throttle modulation better. With my foot I can control the power much better in daily driving, and dial in medium power when needed. The MS3 seems to have 2 throttle positions: granny, and HOLY TESTICLE TUESDAY. I'm getting better at it though.

The MS3 obviously sticks like velcro, and has many modern features that I want in a daily driver. I consider it to be akin to a modern GTI (and I mean original GTI), but with the kind of power I like. Also it's factory sound system was a huge bonus compared to it's competition.