Smartest Order of Mods

[Zulu]

Ok so I've been reading a lot of varying opinions on which mods should come first. If you had to do it all over again and buy one mod at a time, which mods would you get and in what order? I'm asking to see everyone's opinion and how they justify their list. I understand that some people prefer handling over power, so feel free to include suspension and shifter upgrades as well. Oh and if you think that several mods should go together, make sure to say so.

Here is my list (based off of what I've read, but I am a noobie):

1. RMM
2. Intake & Inlet Hose
3. Access Port & Fuel Pump
4. Downpipe
5. Spark Plugs
6. Intercooler
7. Meth Injection
8. Exhaust
9. And all handling stuff (RSB, Springs, SSP/STS,)
10. Big Turbo Build

To clarify my signature, I went with the smaller and handling oriented things first because it was cheaper and I figured it couldnt fuck anything up lol. Anyways, what do you guys think?

edit: Updated the List

[faeker]

first mod should be: SEARCH

there are tons of threads that ask the same question and tons of answers that tell you the proper path.

[Zulu]

yes i know. ive read most of them but as i said, there are varying opinions. im about to buy some mods and digging through 20 different threads for reference is a pain in the ass.

in the time you wrote that, you couldve easily said something constructive... just saying

[DONOTBUGME]

List is fine except I would get the fuel pump internals at the same time as your AP. The last thing you should get is the catback exhaust.

[jlink38]

.

[DONOTBUGME]

Originally Posted by jlink38 Honestly if you donated, sent noods of your gf to punjabiplaya, searched and read, this thread would not exist. I'm saying this as nicely as possible. The knowledge contained herein is worth the cost of donating ten bucks. And nah dude, doesn't work like that. reading those 20 pages of shit may mean the difference between zoom zoom zoom and zoom zoom boom. Don't you want to know how your shit works? Tapatalk

Hey dumbass he is already a vip member meaning he donated, if you werent such a fucking noob yourself you would know that vip is 25 now

[Zulu]

Originally Posted by donotbugme List is fine except I would get the fuel pump internals at the same time as your AP. The last thing you should get is the catback exhaust.

Why get the fuel pump with the AP?

Edit: Nevermind. Thanks for the suggestion

[Zulu]

Originally Posted by jlink38 And nah dude, doesn't work like that. reading those 20 pages of shit may mean the difference between zoom zoom zoom and zoom zoom boom. Don't you want to know how your shit works? Tapatalk

I think you're misunderstanding. I'm not saying that I want the short and sweet answer rather than understanding how it all works. I have done a lot of reading to prevent the asking of dumb/already answered questions. The point of this thread is have 1 place to reference the different build orders.

[DONOTBUGME]

your local guys are retarded. The stock pump is crap, but people have had luck lately with some of the new stage 1 maps cause they dont raise the boost much. With the AP you will be able to monitor your fp so you will know when you need them. Thats just my opinion cause if you throw a testpipe and/or dp then you will be ready for stage 2

[jlink38]

.

[adrager622]

Fuel pump at the same time as Ap, before DP install as others have said. You do that, you shouldn't run into many problems. But fuel pump upgrade should come BEFORE the downpipe goes on!

[DONOTBUGME]

oh no not the mr-lots-of-post burn shit you got me.

Originally Posted by adrager622 Fuel pump at the same time as Ap, before DP install as others have said. You do that, you shouldn't run into many problems. But fuel pump upgrade should come BEFORE the downpipe goes on!

Or testpipe, gen2 s can run stage 2 with any of the 2 cats deleted

[Zulu]

Ok, I'll edit the list. Good thing I asked because I would've gotten the fuel pump after the downpipe.

Where should the BPV and Intercooler fall on the list? Forgot to include those.

[DONOTBUGME]

when ever you want, but the bpv gives you no power gains if your stock one is not leaking. Ic whenever, I would say after your dp or before

[K7addict]

List looks good now, personally, I would toss the IC (tmic or fmic, whichever) in before a BT...so I'd put it as #5.

[wolly6973]

Don't forget HIDs... I would suggest 10000k for optimum visibility.
Also make sure to get an extra set for the fog lights.


















j/k

Good to see someone who has done at least a little research and donated before making this kind of thread.

I would bump B/T down after meth and exhaust. Some decide that K04 fully bolted is enough.
Plus, it is always nice to have a little more rumble out of the pipes. You have to satisfy your inner ricer.

Don't forget the IC upgrade as well. Cobb says our stocker does well, but I love my ETS!

[emag remrofni]

I'd say IC just after AP because if you're anywhere hot, the stocker get's heat soaked like a motherfucker. My car turns into a limp dick piece of shit in this heat.

[IshiKage]

*Edit. forgot the rest of the mounts

the order id go if i did all over again

1. RMM, 5500-6kHIDs(if you dont have them) & Intake
2. Springs & RSB
3. DP
4. Access Port(etune from one of the Gurus of here, DJ's the man) & Fuel Pump
5. FMIC, Inlet & Spark Plugs
6. Meth Injection & other two engine mounts
7. Exhaust
8. Big Turbo (if you go that route)

Originally Posted by wolly6973 Don't forget HIDs... I would suggest 10000k for optimum visibility. Also make sure to get an extra set for the fog lights. j/k Good to see someone who has done at least a little research and donated before making this kind of thread. I would bump B/T down after meth and exhaust. Some decide that K04 fully bolted is enough. Plus, it is always nice to have a little more rumble out of the pipes. You have to satisfy your inner ricer. Don't forget the IC upgrade as well. Cobb says our stocker does well, but I love my ETS!

haha on the 10k hids

[Dre]

i would do test pipe n res delete instead of the inlet pipe.. about the same money but the power gain from the test pipe and the audio gain from doing the res delete in conjunction with the test pipe will keep you from getting a cbe for a good long while.. but if i had to do it all over again id go:

1. SRI/tp/res delete
2. JBR stg2 ssp
3. koni yellows/springs/rsb/lighter wheels (17x9 rpf1s are 15.x lbs.. stock genpu wheels are 25.x lbs)
4. fp internals/ap
5. fmic/dp

[forcedinduktion]

Make sure to fill up teh intercooler with freon

[irishking03]

Originally Posted by Zulu You list edited my way 1. SRI 2. TIP 3. BPV/BOV(Recirc Mode) 4. AP (Going to need this before you get to 5 and so on)(if you skip this and go to 5 your wasting you money) 5. DP 6. CBE 7. HPFP 8. FMIC 9. ATP GT3076r with Tial 38mm EWG setup, SteedSpeed Mani, MBC, Bigger Tip Outlet and 3" SRI

Now do it

[adlpb]

I think you should leave the BT until you're fully bolted. And don't forget the FMIC.

[mghtymouse380]

I like you list I just think that you need to do suspension before you go BT. No reason on having alot of power if you cant use it.

[rikyrick87]

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...daspeed-77762/

[JP@edgeautosport.com]

List looks okay with me except for the FMIC as mentioned a few times. Definitely goes before BT. Meth will do great with the stock turbo too.

[Monotonous ONE]

1) Full engine mounts from JBR
2) Accessport
3) Fuel pump internals
4) downpipe
5) Fmic/Tmic
6) Sri/Tip

If i would do it over...this is what i would have done.

Sprinkle in all the cheap shit in between. Like shifter bushings and shit like that.

[ruthless013]

AP should be your first power mod on this car. even a stage zero tune will change the way the car drives significantly, plus add lc/ffs and give you the ability to monitor. from there, you add power mods like intake and see how it affects your car.

fuel pump is not always necessary for intake/tip, but youll never know if you cant monitor. with just intake/tip my car felt and drove great, but when i got an AP my first logs in 40* weather showed my FP was dipping under 1000 at WOT. that's when i bought a pump.

handling - lets not forget this cars pulls .92 on the skidpad stock. for almost everyone this is plenty. if youre content with stock ride height, sway bars are a nice upgrade without upsetting ride. if you want to lower for looks, theres lots of options and opinions. my advice is dont be a cheap ass.

lastly, a RMM is almost required, as with any spirited driving the motor can contact the firewall. for me it stopped that from happening, plus cleaned up my shifting, particularly on the 2-3 upshift.

[G26]

I would do it in this order...

RMM
AP
Pump internals
Intake

At 17-18psi, I am starting to get fp drops into the high 1500's at max load, so I will definitely need internals soon/before winter.

[Spirry]

I think this "mod list" should be renamed "motor mod list". If you are auto-crossing, doing track days, or any other events similar to this, hp is the least of your concern.

Also the number one mod, cheapest and most effective in my book, would be disconnecting SWAS.

[rfinkle2]

Although RMM is not listed, this is a pretty good read:

(2nd page is Cobb's recommended upgrage path)

http://accessecu.com/support/docs/su...%20Support.pdf

[Ckmazdaspeed3]

One of the wisest members on this forum said that if he had to do it all over, big turbo would have been his first mod. His reason was simple, you never realize the full potential of your other power mods, because the ko4 is your biggest restriction.

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by Ckmazdaspeed3 One of the wisest members on this forum said that if he had to do it all over, big turbo would have been his first mod. His reason was simple, you never realize the full potential of your other power mods, because the ko4 is your biggest restriction.

Please don't post logical shit like that, because i'm so ready to pull the trigger.

[adlpb]

Originally Posted by rfinkle2 Although RMM is not listed, this is a pretty good read: (2nd page is Cobb's recommended upgrage path) http://accessecu.com/support/docs/su...%20Support.pdf

That's a pretty good read. One more reason why I support Cobb, they really put their time into research.

Here's their advice:

1) AccessPORT + free flowing intake system. The stock ignition advance settings are a little aggressive, the stock calibration tends to create boost spikes, runs a bit lean on spool up (a bit lean for the DI Fuel Pressure this car runs), the throttle response is not very linear, etc. We know the stock intake is very restrictive (too small of a filter and air box for a FI application), relieving inlets restrictions helps the turbo/engine breath better and respond quicker. 2) CDFP upgrade + Turbo Inlet Hose (TIH). This allows slightly higher boost to be targeted and allows for the fueling capacity to keep up with the fueling demands. The stock CDFP can only keep up when 18psi or even less boost is targeted. 3) COBB DP or free flow exhaust system + upgraded BOV. If this path is chosen, keeping the stock 3-way catalyst is ideal and replacing only one catalyst with a test pipe and CBE will sufficiently increase VE. The increased exhaust flow will move the detonation threshold up and creates enough VE to allow for slightly higher boost targets. The stock BOV can hold well up to about 18.5psi, but not much above that and it tends to bleed off air throughout the RPM range during pulls. You can also upgrade the CBE exhaust when you do the downpipe installation for an ideal exhaust gas pressure relief. 4) TMIC upgrade (FMIC upgrade for upgraded turbo) + modified fueling system. The stock TMIC is the most effective configuration that we've seen to date. How Mazda plumbs the TMIC ducting from the front of the car (high pressure area) through the hood is very effective on the road, but the additional core size is very helpful at exchanging heat at the higher boost levels on the stock turbo. You can also install a FMIC to further prevent the heat soaking that a TMIC will see. With a higher capacity fuel system, you will be able to further benefit from higher base DI Fuel Pressure. With a fuel feed line that has a slightly larger orifice and with a safety relief valve that releases above 2000+psi, the fueling system capacity is increases by about 10% (which is very helpful) and with the higher pressure, the cooling effect of the fuel injection is increased. 5) Upgraded turbo, at this point in time, the stock turbo is working at is maximum and you can see this through the WGDC values that you log through the AccessPORT. The WGDC values will likely be at or above 90% from the mid RPM range to redline...letting you know that the stock turbo is spinning its head off. To help increase turbo life, you can target lower boost levels where the WGDC is around 80% by redline. 6) Upgraded exhaust manifold (EXM). We suggest this after the turbo upgrade because the stock exhaust manifold design is the limiting flow variables at this point. This helps relieve additional exhaust gas back pressure from the engine and rids the engine of the poor OEM EXM design. You can upgrade the EXM before the turbo, but it will require a full re-tune of the boost control system. Does this make sense?

[forcedinduktion]

Originally Posted by ruthless013 AP should be your first power mod on this car. even a stage zero tune will change the way the car drives significantly, plus add lc/ffs and give you the ability to monitor. from there, you add power mods like intake and see how it affects your car. fuel pump is not always necessary for intake/tip, but youll never know if you cant monitor. with just intake/tip my car felt and drove great, but when i got an AP my first logs in 40* weather showed my FP was dipping under 1000 at WOT. that's when i bought a pump. handling - lets not forget this cars pulls .92 on the skidpad stock. for almost everyone this is plenty. if youre content with stock ride height, sway bars are a nice upgrade without upsetting ride. if you want to lower for looks, theres lots of options and opinions. my advice is dont be a cheap ass. lastly, a RMM is almost required, as with any spirited driving the motor can contact the firewall. for me it stopped that from happening, plus cleaned up my shifting, particularly on the 2-3 upshift.

Stage 0 map is same as stock

[Bucker]

Originally Posted by donotbugme List is fine except I would get the fuel pump internals at the same time as your AP. The last thing you should get is the catback exhaust.

100% agreed. List looks fine, Exhaust should be the least of your concerns and the HPFP internals are more important than you think.

[Zulu]

I updated the list again. I put BT last and added intercooler before meth. I also bumped exhaust down from what people have been saying. I guess I was wrong about there being a performance gain from 3" exhaust rather than the stock 2.5"

Originally Posted by rfinkle2 Although RMM is not listed, this is a pretty good read: (2nd page is Cobb's recommended upgrage path) http://accessecu.com/support/docs/su...%20Support.pdf

RMM is listed as first. It was my first mod and I'm happy with the results.

Originally Posted by Monotonous ONE 1) Full engine mounts from JBR 2) Accessport 3) Fuel pump internals 4) downpipe 5) Fmic/Tmic 6) Sri/Tip If i would do it over...this is what i would have done. Sprinkle in all the cheap shit in between. Like shifter bushings and shit like that.

Why do you have the SRI and TIP last? Its supposed to be one of the largest gains

[Monotonous ONE]

Would you say that an intake is better or more important than any of the prior selections?



Save it for later on when the other installs piss you off. As far as the bigger picture...all the other items will do more for performance and drivability.

[spizot555]

Originally Posted by Zulu Ok so I've been reading a lot of varying opinions on which mods should come first. If you had to do it all over again and buy one mod at a time, which mods would you get and in what order? I'm asking to see everyone's opinion and how they justify their list. I understand that some people prefer handling over power, so feel free to include suspension and shifter upgrades as well. Oh and if you think that several mods should go together, make sure to say so. Here is my list (based off of what I've read, but I am a noobie): 1. RMM 2. Intake & Inlet Hose 3. Access Port & Fuel Pump 4. Downpipe 5. Spark Plugs 6. Intercooler 7. Meth Injection 8. Exhaust 9. And all handling stuff (RSB, Springs, SSP/STS,) 10. Big Turbo Build To clarify my signature, I went with the smaller and handling oriented things first because it was cheaper and I figured it couldnt fuck anything up lol. Anyways, what do you guys think? edit: Updated the List

I might be the only dude here that doesn't mind people starting new threads. I can't comment on your list but I'll list mine and my challenges so far.

I did this:

-KN intake: just awesome and made an immediate difference is response and sound.
-CS TIP: increased responsiveness and made the spool more reliable. I could bring the boost at will instead of it just attacking me in traffic.
-RMM: The best mod ever, easiest to install and made driving more fun immediately. Also....it was the prettiest mod nobody will ever see
-Side motor mounts: increased vibrations from A/C. Probably could have gone without them
-CS TIP: Seemed to reduce low end...BUT...also think I started getting used to the power curve and it may just be me getting used to the spool. Allows engine to spool before it really should (I can spool up at 2k rpms...that's not always a good thing, especially in gears 3 and up.)
-CPe CBE: Awesome sound paired with the TIP. Looks much better. Also, less soot on the back of the speed3.

My challenges now are very expensive mods to move forward. I must get an AP and a Fuel pump to do anything more. But, my car sounds AWESOME, handles well, and the spool has become more manageable than before.

So, take it for what its worth.

[JNR5005]

Intake after AP becuz fuel cut.

[ruthless013]

Originally Posted by forcedinduktion Stage 0 map is same as stock

derf. that is correct. what i should have said is that there are stage 1 maps for 100% stock cars that, alone, would seriously improve the driving experience.

COBB Tuning, v101.00 -- Stage1 91 BTv101 - Intended for otherwise stock 2010 MAZDASPEED3 vehicles with a stock or cat-back exhaust, a STOCK INTAKE SYSTEM, and a stock CDFP only. 91 or 92 octane fuel. Boost Targets: ~16psi peak boost pressure tapering down to ~16psi by the 6700 RPM redline, +/- 1.5psi. Pressure-Based Boost Tuning enabled.

AP first nubs!