Speed in Abingdon, MD
 

Are you on the forums? Always see your black and orange (baltimore oriole looking) speed3 parked far away from the entrance of planet fitness.

His name is mark and no he's not, that's why his car looks like that.. What do you drive? I have a red gen1 gold stockers that's always parked at the top

I drive a stock black 2011. Usually go to planet fitness in the evenings. Liked his color scheme I was looking through the picture thread to see if I could find it in there.

Thing is ugly imo. He's a bro, bro car. We're you from a different state previously? I think I see your car there sometimes but its too crowded then so I go late evenings and early mornings

lol tons of speeds in harford county but i dont think any that are worth nuthugging

From MD just got stationed back here. I was in Texas last keeping those tags and residence so I don't have to pay state taxes. I wouldn't do my car like that but I like it, its different. Going to start tinkering with mine slowly. I got new wheels on the way. Do you know if heritage is mod friendly? And yeah that place has been way packed since new years. It gets pretty crazy.

dont expect any mod friendly dealers in harford county. why do you want to ruin a perfectly good mazda paint job?

^ive never seen you. I'm right in bel air.

ask nyal about my car

Not going to mess with the paint job. Starting with wheels then probably AP in a month or two then SRI and RMM. After that IDK if i will do anymore or continue. May or may not lower it a little not sure yet.

There is a member who did that same path @fortressofcomfort and he didnt get fp internals like suggested and guess what they started failing buddy so your first modification should be fp internals.

Shouldn't I still get ap before fp internals so I can monitor? Didn't realize there was so many of us in hardford on the forums.

And I've never really messed around with a car before so it should be a fun learning experience. Glad these forums are here.

Its a wash you can run fp internals without an ap but you should honestly purchase them together to make things easier.
just bring me your car when your ready i will save you from rape dealers and stupidity.

Gotcha I'll do that first then. So more like three months down the road. Be better to work on it when its warmer out anyway.

whenever its a quick process doesnt take much effort you just gotta kno what your doing, let me know when your ready. Until then here is food for your brain in case someone wants to tell you that you dont need internals http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...rmance-101497/

Bring to you for help? Or to service it? Was gonna try to learn myself never did this type of stuff before but I'm a quick learner.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...talled-104999/
I help anyone who wants it

OK I appreciate the offer and will probably take you up on it in a few months. Thanks for the tips.

Im in whitemarsh, but work in Aberdeen. Since I got mine back in oct, I have seen nothing but people buying them where I work. Kind of annoying, go be original :P

Mines black.

Welcome (back).

yeah there is quite a few here. In Texas closest Mazdaspeed dealer was 4 hours away. I was one of two in town.

Captain KR (wdawson) is right.

Mod list:
- FP INTERNALS (the first time you put a simple intake on there and hit fuel cut you'll shit your pants).
- Underpants
- AP
- Those first three mods are worth probably 15hp and 30lb ft alone. (stock tune is PIG PIG PIG RICH, like 10:1 rich or worse, so simple map change makes HUGE diff on this car).
- Then Intake, tip, and reflash (another 15hp and 15 lbft)
- Racepipe/DP (another 15hp, 25 lbft, lots of noise too).
- Charge cooling enhancements (you'll need em by this point when you start seeing 150F BATs)
- Somewhere in there you'll need new tires. Lots of them.
- Why? Becayse racecar:thinking:
- Skip the rear swaybar unless you REALLY know how to drive. I mean REALLY. If you don't know what "lift throttle oversteer" means then a rear swaybar upgrade is not fo you!
- Motor mounts, optional. If you absolutely must FFS every gear from every light then go for it, if you drive it with a little bit of care the stock mounts are ok and much quieter; you will not be bothered by passengers everytime to explain why car vibrates like a 1974 Valiant.

My $.02

Did I say to get internals first?:thinking:

Bout to join that gym and ill be up there all the time in the late evenings.

I'm from Towson. I spent a lot of time in Harford County growing up, but had to get away from the East Coast, so I decided to move to Vegas in 2006. I always enjoy visiting home in MD, but would never move back. Change of pace is good.....get out of MD while you can! Just drive your Speed 3 across rt 70 to Cove Ft and drop south on the 15 to Vegas! Irrelevant I know!

@Captain KR : Will when are we going to do either a testpipe or DP on my car? Did you do onelovesoccer's and how'd his turn out?

I'm also trying to figure out if there are any extra tweaks I can make in ATR since I have the upgraded Autotch internals but no turboback yet. Think its safe to add a lb of boost or should I just wait?:blindfold:

I followed both Abilor's guide and also Bucker's guide on top of some fresh ots stage 1 SF TIH 93 maps. Bucker's tune was sick, I was getting like 280g/sec of airflow through the MAF but it was so temperamental. The first time I flashed the map and punched it it honestly felt like racecar. But then it started having problems, I put in new gas, it all went downhill from there. I honestly believe I got the most bang for the buck out of increasing the ignition timing advance but everyone says NO don't do that pussy pants I dunno. I was pushing like +5 degrees in the upper rpm ranges (4k-6k) with no knock and just raw power. But maybe I was this close to blowing the fucking ting up I dunno. Regardless, this is my DD and has to run on Royal Farms gas unfortunately. I wish I had a second car then the 2012 would be racecar.

I AM READY WHENEVER JUST TXT ME.... HERE IS MY SUGGESTION IF YOU WANT TO KEEP A CAT THEN GET A TP I WOULDN'T BUY A CATTED DP . IF YOU WANT ZERO CATS GO WITH A CATLESS CNT DP OR EBAY DP.

@Captain KR
Something like this:

Ultimate Test Pipe MS3

would keep one of the cats right? And therefore wouldn't be too loud. And you can install this without welding? It's a true bolton?

If I flash stage 2 do you think its worth what? 10hp and 20lb/ft ????

@eric@edgeautosport

THAT IS THE EXACT ONE I INSTALLED FOR @Onelovesoccer DIRECT BOLT ON AND DOESN'T TAKE MUCH EFFORT AT ALL JUST A SLOW PROCESS. YOUR DP CAT WILL BE IN PLACE AND WILL TRIGGER ZERO CEL'S BUT WILL ALLOW YOU TO MOVE TO STAGE 2

OH AND I'M NOT A REAL HP/NUMBER KINDA GUY THE TP ALLOWS YOU TO LET A TUNER GO TO TOWN ON YOUR CAR AND UP THE BOOST BECAUSE OF THE RELIEVED BACK PRESSURE.

blah lbah blah we're all numbers guys just look at your g/sec flowing through your MAF to get an idea of the power you can make (if you tune it up).




You think Cobb's gains reported for this are for real? Looks too good to be true. 40hp and 68lb/ft ???? How did OneLoveSoccer's butt dyno feel (If you don't mind me askking lol)


CLICK HERE !!!!!

Dyno Database Online



If you ever compare COBB's stage 1 + SF + TIH 93 versus their Stage 2 + SF + TIH 93, you'll see the stage 2 has MUCH lower WGDC (like half) and higher boost targets. I think its all about less backpressure here. That's the name of the game. So you need less poweer to run the turbo (VE) and are also getting more boost at the same time. So a 3 psi gain in boost is like 30% more power really. Whereas on stage 1 they let the wgdc fly open to 90% creating those nice little 18.5psi spikes, on stage2 they have to actually reign that crap in or you'll blow. So they wgdc are like 1/2 of what they are on stage 1. I've heard people actually report that stage 2 "feels" slower than stage 1 but that's probably because of the boost spikes being reigned in properly for stage 2. I think the boost targets are 19psi stage 2 vs 16psi stage 1. Add in a good IC and the targets are now 20psi.



Look at the attachments. Left one is for BT (boost targets) the top set is for stage 1 (16psi), bottom for stage 2 (19psi). But then look at the second attachment (WGDC) the top one is actually for stage 2, the bottom for stage 1 (I flipped em by accident). Notice how in the midrange COBB just lets stage 1 slam the WG open at will due to all that backpressure I'm guessing. Then look at stage 2 how they have to lower the numbers in the midrange big time to prevent spikes. Shows just how much restriction even one cat creates on a turbocharged car.

It pulls harder and you can def feel the wheel spin increase the biggest thing that made the difference for him was the e-tune from what he told me. I'm going to txt you fool.

OK I got your sms..... Let me buy the testpipe from edge first though. Gimme a month or so.


I would be interested in seeing his BAT vs IAT ratio now tho.... On stage 1 (16psi) my BATs are only about 10-15degrees F higher than IAT. I once turned the boost up to 18psi and all I got was heat. I'm telling you people, turning the K04 up past 17psi without freeing up the exhaust is just gonna make heat, all you need is an AP to confirm that. When I cranked up my boost with stock exhaust my BATs shot up to like 35F over IAT. No good.

I wanna see how far we can push the K04, with just a test pipe (stock DP) boost wise before it turns into a flamerthrower (BAT vs IAT ratio). COBB says with good I/C it's somewhere around 20psi. I'm skeptical.


Oh and great now wheelspin in 3rd gear? I'm really considering breaking out the APP tables to dial this shit back. I want to go fast, not smell like burnt Dunlop 2020s. Course Will and his 4 wd doesn't have these problems. I'm considering a staggered tire setup. 295/25R20s in the front, drag radials, 195/50R15s in the back. f it.

Oh a FYI you ready to drive my car again! Totally different beast now that it gettin tuned and I got a new clutch and meth!;) test mother Fucking drive.

I can handle your car no worries mate. I didn't notice any problems w your clutch before. You blow it?

Oh Will @Captain KR should I order up some ITV22s while I'm ordering from Edge? I think I'm at the point where I can benefit from them. You have a torque wrench correct?

Yes itv22 and I dunno Wat your budget is like but after this/tune. A intercooler of some sort is going to be your next step. I do have a tq wrench but what are you looking to use it for? Oh and my clutch felt fine but its better to change it after you reach a certain tq range just call it preventative maintenance.;)

yeah man, Will installed my UR TP, ITV22s and my AT internals. but i can tell you that the car is another beast now. with the TP and internals, @atvfreek has been able to really open her up. you'll be fine in 3rd gear, especially once your tires are warm, you'll stick. but i also put on new 235s, so that helps.

point is, before the TP/internals, I was making around 265whp and now im at ~295whp (and he's not done). once i get my upgraded TMIC, 300whp will be accomplished. also, if you get the TP, don't get the catted one. it's not going to be much louder in the car, but it'll sound more aggressive outside the car and at WOT. but if you do want the sound, a TP plus having your resonator removed is fucking great.

oh yeah, one more thing, the bolts UR sent with my TP didn't even fucking fit. they were way too long. so you may have to run to Home Depot.

Correct that is a complete bolton no welding or anything.

I BOUGHT A BOLT/NUT SET IN CASE I DO ANYMORE THAT DON'T HAVE THE CORRECT BOLTS

haha good idea. i still can't believe how long those bolts were.

Out before discussion about whose nuts are longer or who can believe the size of anOther member's bolt.

Thanks guys for the very informative highly jacked thread!