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Stage 2 AP Map without DP? Hey guys, My car is fully bolted on the intake side of things, however, I have yet to touch the exhaust (DP, TP and CBE). I'm wondering if its safe (or even smart) to run a Stage 2 Access Port OTS Map if I dont have the suggested DP - I do have all the other supporting mods (FMIC, HPFP, Etc). I'll be getting the ATP long downpipe next month, and then a custom tune... but for now I wil be staying with stock TBE. Did a few searches "stage 2 map without downpipe" and even just "stage 2 map" and didnt find anything of value - sorry if I missed a post on this. |
No |
I don't know if i'd outright say 'No'. It depends on the car, and other conditions. I ran the Stage 2 w/ IC map (For ignition timings) for about a year with no knock to speak of. All stock exhaust, and stock plugs as well. However, i'm running 94 Octane fuel and it never gets much above the mid 70's in the UK. |
Just be patient and wait. If you dont have the money for a DP then you def wont have money for repairs. Not saying its gonna break the car running stage 2 without DP, but its def not made for that. There are people that do it and your just gonne be :crucified: for it. Just a simple reading of the Map description tells you what you need to do to run the map correctly. There are people who run the map that way, but you have to be very very very careful and keep an eye on your logs. Do it right or dont do it at all. :welcome: To add, make sure you get a test pipe at the same time you do the DP. :poke: |
ATP long downpipe is just that. 'Long' means it removes both cats. |
*dons flame suit* Just putting it out there, I ran a stage 2 map with only a test pipe for 40K miles w/upgraded HPFP of course. If there's any wild ideas, at the very least run a test pipe. That's a huge choke point. |
it says in the notes only one cat needs to be removed so eliminating the one on the midpipe allows you to run stg 2 maps. when it lays out what parts you need to run a certain map, don't fucking wonder if maybe you can run it without the parts. the notes are there for a damn reason. |
Stage two requires removal of one cat. I think it only says DP and not DP/TP because the Cobb DP is a long DP. I'm currently running stage 2 with the stock DP but aftermarket TP/Catback and it works just fine. |
I ran mine on OTS Stage 2 with just a test pipe for a while. Still do now, but have made my own changes - you're fine with it. |
the test pipe is the "lower" downpipe. a long downpipe replaces both the upper and lower portions. each portion contains one cat. the notes state you need to remove a cat or replace it with a hi-flow cat. so, if you get a long DP (hi-flow cat or catless), you'll be fine. if you get an upper downpipe (hi-flow cat or catless), you'll be fine. if you replace the lower downpipe (the test/race pipe...hi-flow cat or catless), you'll be fine. if you are concerned with money, buy a test pipe for $150, tops. there is really no reason to get a catted test pipe (they run around $300). so get a catless test pipe, bolt it up, then you can run Stage 2. then, when you have more money, you can buy just the upper downpipe with a hi-flow cat (or catless). if you have money to drop, then yeah, just get a long downpipe. depending on emissions testing, you'll either get it with a hi-flow cat or catless. if you get it with the hi-flow, you are removing one cat from the stock setup. if you go catless, you are removing both cats from the stock setup. |
Hey OP: I have only deleted the 2nd cat (test pipe), so I'm not "true" stage2. But let me tell you Cobb's Stage2 maps blow monkey ass, don't waste your time. My car ALWAYS traps at least 102mph even in a 100F day. I threw the Cobb Stage2 map on my car for shits and giggles. Trap speed? 93mph. I fucking kid you not. DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME ON STAGE2 MAPS; GET A CUSTOM TUNE OR LEARN TO DO IT YOU DELF. |
Well, the problem with the bog standard Stage 2 OTS map is that the ignition advance is even more retarded then the stage 1 maps. However, the Stage 2 + IC map has the highest advance of any of the OTS maps. |
Skip DP, get TP and tune, Enjoy :) |
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tapafuck |
That's what we all do... start with the map closest to what you have then turn everything up about 20% |
I'd like to add: Since you haven't opened up the exhaust at all, I'd start with a stage1 map and crank it up to 18psi dropping to 16psi by 5500 - 6000rpms (read the Stickies for help). I had good results like that. Run about 3-4 degrees of timing at 3k rpms and then ramp up as much as your car will take (probably 12-13*). Then once you uncork the exhaust side AND get a CDFP (which I see you have already, good) then start over with a stage 2 map. No matter what you WILL see a gain by self tuning or getting an e-tune, Cobb's maps are lowest common denominator maps. |
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Stage 1.5 ? Stage 1++ ? Stage -->>> ROCKET SHIP! You are correct though, by Cobb's definition of "Stage 2" Still, their maps suck, get a real tune I say. |
My question is, with removal of the second cat (2.5" pipe, not a 3" test pipe) would I still be okay to run a stage 2 based tune? Stock DP, 2.5" pipe from the first cat all the way back. Other power mods are sri, tip, hpfp |
Get a mid pipe you can get some for under 100$ |
This thread filled my reading of the word "stage" quota for the next year. |
Man, the Cobb OTS maps aren't that great to begin with. I would play it conservative. The OTS gains from running stage 1 vs stage 2 are minimal without modding the exhaust. There's a larger difference between running a 93 octane map over a 91 map. Atleast this is what I have observed on stock exhaust. |
I ran the Stratified OTS stage 2 map on my car without exhaust mods for a couple of months before I got my catless test tipe with no issues. The car ran great and was confirmed by logs. Might as well wait though since you're going to be getting exhaust work done soon. |
Maybe this is a retarded question, but will replacing the lower downpipe with a test pipe cause CEL? |
/facepalm |
Just kidding, I found the answer. |
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