Stages to modding?
 

Heres what I was thinking...
1. Rmm
2. Ap
3. Intake/tip
4. Cbe
5. Dp

Any problems with this?
Because I talked to the dealer they said ap before any mods....
and he got cutoff so he never explaned why

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...st-read-99499/

btw you forgot fuel pump internals

I would do
1 fp internals
2 rmm
3 AP/tune
4 sri/tip
5 colder plugs
6 dp
7 upgrade intercooler
8 bpv
Forget the cbe not really needed

Love your avatar!!!

Don't look bad besides i would take out catback and replace it with fuel internals...then i would add TMIC or FMIC at the end of the list...maybe some springs/shocks too

1. fog lights
2. decals
3. painted rims
4. hids
5. stickers
6. lowering springs

I defintely wouldn't do internals before AP. Best investments are Rmm, and AP. Then pick and choose whatever you want after. The AP is the gateway to extracting everything.

Tappin

get fuel internals after/intake, but def get the AP b4 internals. and forget the cbe! no real gains, if u want sound, delete the resonator and get a test pipe, unless the Downpipe is 1 peice.

1.rmm
2.AP
3.intake
4.fuel internals
5. Dp
6.intercooler

Are you guys kidding me get. internals bf an AP . You can't do anything with your AP unless you have internals. I took some logs off my AP and my fp is craping out and all I have is a sri and a tip. With a stage one tune for the moddes i have andis my pump dropped below 1600psi. So for now its stock tune till I get my internals in.

You forgot under car light kit! Hell I saw one Civic like that yesterday.

Joke a side,

1-RMM
2-AP
3-SRI/ TIP + Internals
4-Down pipe
5-TMIC or FMIC + BPV(if yours is leaking)

Good enough for stage 2 maps on the AP and good HP/ft-lbs. That's my plan, and the CBE is a noise mod, a nice noise mod but better to get power gain than making lots of noise going slow ;-)

I agree with @atvfreek that the fuel pump internals may not necessarily be the best investment for your very first mod. But FWIW keep in mind that with the amount of Power the AP will unleash, the stock internals will eventually be unable to keep up with fueling demands (and this won't take long if you like MOAR power). So that's why I'm doing a group buy for the internals. JUMP ON IT WHILE YOU CAN!!!

RMM is a must. Before you ask, just get the JBR Chrome-Molly 88. It's harsh, but you'll thank me later.

The rest of your list looks good. But I'm with @nextgenerationx1, buying a CBE for these cars is a waste of money. It's like repeatedly taking that hot red head to expensive dinners only to find out she just wants to be friends (damn you!!!)

^^. I can see where you guys are coming from.. I just wish I got my internals first bc now my AP can't be used to it fullest untill I get my internals in. I was surprised to so when fp crap out even with just a stage one sri tune. I just dont want to see someone go boom..

@mrspeed10 I'm waiting on mine also, I made the mistake of installing a DP/TP before internals. I wen't down to 500psi at WOT at one point :eek2: I'm just glad I'm still rollin' till my internals can be installed. Have you ordered yours or are they already installed?

It's been out for 2012 for maybe 2 months now, Updated software.

Ahhh I see
Damn guess the Ap I just bought is just going to be pretty paper weight :lame:
Just for future reference Cobb or Corksport?

@mrspeed10
Im going with what your saying
Upgrading the Fp since im waiting on Ap anyways

Your right its been out i gave bad info, but it hasnt been for two months.

Disregard what i said the ap as it does now work with the 2012, cobb moved quick apparently. Get sri and worry about fp down the road, i was almost fully bolted with cp-e tmic and getting over 1600psi on stg 2 map with all the goodies. When i switched to fmic is when i saw a drop in fp but i had internals in hand and installed soon after. Was not running dp either just tp, dp you will def need internals.

Surprised nobody called him out on it, but I wouldn't take any advice from a dealership regarding mods.

Honestly, you just need to learn to tune your car around the fp issue. Why would you put internals in if you can't monitor fuel pressure?

I have tuned several cars with no HPFP on a 17psi tune, and they are making 280ish HP 300-310tq. Trust me when I say AP before FP.

agreed ^^

my genwon never saw below 1600 psi at WOT until my boost targets were set to around 18 ish.

Saying that, i did end up getting internals anyway because i want to run a little more boost safely and not be worried about the fuel pressure dropping.

Exactly! Tune the car for the mods you have, then add internals and up the boost.

ture but your internals are your weekest link are they not?? Its just a matter of time before it goes.. I am sure it can be done by why when you can make so much more power by getting them.. But ether way your internals and ap go hand in hand to make big power.

Cobb recommends running safe mode Stage 1 if you dont have upgraded cdfp (read map notes). But who wants to run safe mode, thats no fun. So i would do internals at the same time as Cobb. Install internals first then Stage 1 tune. Internals not required, but if Cobb recommends it, then it is important. Spend the extra $350 to protect your engine and get the Cobb at the same time to monitor fp.

The govt recommends shit to you gonna do that, some of us have been through this before me included. internals are not needed until you up the boost like when I went fmic.

OP- US DOT called and they said to donate first before they respond.

or just read this and be done with it http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...daspeed-77762/

I know what that says I've been here longer than you, people also say don't vta...but there's not a damn thing wrong with it if you tune for it.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus

im still on stock rmm. i should address this soon lol. since the my car shifts like a champ, i'm paranoid the RMM would ruin it.

Absolutely get a RMM first. It's cheap and easy and makes a great difference. Not to mention, you're going to want it once you start getting some extra power. I'd also look into a short shift plate, counterweight and anchors when you do the RMM. All very cheap mods that make everything feel more solid.

As for internals vs. AP vs. SRI/TIP vs. DP/CBE, I spoke with Cobb, Street Unit and a local shop here (P Tuning) and they all said do NOT get the DP before you get an upgraded pump or internals. Cobb told me that you are going to be ok tuning to Stage 1+ if you have a SRI/TIP and AP. Hell, even replace the re-circiulation tube with the SURE Return ($59) when you do the SRI/TIP. But do NOT go any further until you get your internals/new pump. Once you get that, I'd say go with the DP and tune to Stage 2+ (note: you can go Stage 2+ as soon as internals are in and you have an SRI/TIP...Stage 2 w/ no TIP/TIH).

As others have said, wait on the CBE until you get some of the other mods since it doesn't really do much. Having said that, Cobb said we would be okay with a new CBE w/o replacing internals.

I'd probably get a PMM and TMM after getting to Stage 2. The OEM ones are just terrible.

Then there is the TMIC vs. FMIC issue. Depending on which you decide to go with will determine when you want to get it, but in the end, I think most would agree to get this towards the end. Once you get that, you can tune to Stage 2++ (note: this is all under the maps programmed in AP, not a custom tune).

In short:

1. RMM/Counterweight/Shortcut/Anchors
2. AP
3. SRI/TIP/Recirc Tube (tune to Stage 1+)
4. Internals or Fuel Pump/Denso ITV22 Plugs (tune to Stage 2+)
5. Downpipe
6. TMM/PMM
7. FMIC or TMIC (tune to Stage 2++)
8. CBE
9. BPV (you can basically feel safe doing this mod at any point from 4-9)

There are obviously other mods (e.g. TIG, Turbo Manifold, Rear Sway Bar, etc.) but I think the above list is a good list to start with.

Thanks for the info bro,
Found it very helpful

Damn you! I wanted to be the first to point that out! But yeah, who calls the dealership for mod advise?

And guys, gendone does not equal genpu. Gendone has a great exhaust, while our set up is much more restrictive. Many bright msfers feel that one can see gains going to full 3" CBe on a pupu

yeah no problem dude. it should be noted all of that is based off my experience with a 2010. i doubt there is any difference, but wanted to at least make that known.

Wat does "ap" mean

Cobb accessport, which is our best tuning option

Tappin

AccessPort....

Anal penetration

Sent from my left nut.

I call BS... no dealership is going to tell you that modding the ecu is going to be cool.

Agreed, I'm waiting until my warranty expires before I think about modding anything at all
Upgrading to genpu from a 2005 1.8t GTI is enough to keep me happy for now


Question about RMM...
Does this provide any sort of performance gain, or is it just to stop the knocking that happens when I go heavy on the throttle? If thats actually what causes the knocking, this should be a recall item.

Apparently this is the best RMM to get, right?
JBR James Barone Racing Rear Motor Mount Chromoly Mazdaspeed 3 MS3

Not really. The RMM upgrade replaces the crap OEM piece that doesn't keep the engine from moving like it should. As a result, you get less power to the wheels and will wear down pretty quick with spirited driving. It's a great mod to get no matter what. Just makes the car stronger and you will feel improved performance since you are getting more of the power the car produces.

Motor mounts, counter weights, short shifter plates and shifter bushings are good mods for anyone, including those who don't want to chance voiding their warranty. Honestly, they are preventative type mods and aren't likely to cause any problems that would hurt your car and thus void your warranty.

Thanks man
So what is that knocking that happens when I go heavy throttle and boost?
I can feel it more then I can hear it, it makes me get off the throttle

And does it really matter what RMM I get, or should I go with the JBR 88 I linked?

first step would be removing the 5% tint off your windshield....

Well, it doesn't sound like your talking about the engine hitting the firewall which also happens with the stock rmm, but that definitely makes a loud knock sound... More like a boom. It happened to me the day I bought my car and scared the shit out of me... That was enough to warrant an upgraded motor mount.

I read about the firewall knock and figured thats it and stopped worrying.
car only has 6000 miles right now.
How can I be sure that this is all it is?
I get it to happen when I'm 3rd/4th gear and start heavy acceleration (above 3k rpm)
I'll have to open windows and turn radio down and give it a good listen, but its been fukn cold lately...

If it is the RMM, why is this being ignored by mazda, and people solve the problem by getting 3rd party parts.