StreetUnit TMIC VS cx racing pipes/tr8 core
 

I have read a lot of chat about the quality of the treadstone cores but I wanted some opinions about a potential switch. RPM has the cx racing piping (which can be powercoated sweeeet) for super freaking cheap (299.00) and the treadstone cores (249.00) That is a wicked deal in my opinion but having an upgraded Top mount already I was thinking is it worth the switch. I like the fact our hood scoops are actually functional but I have had ran into extreme temps when just sitting waiting to race (waiting in line for 1/4 miles etc) I suppose the FMIC would help with some of that? I just want to know from someone who has run a upgraded top mount and switched to a quality front mount if they are happy with that decision? Also, for only 1200 bucks RPM has the BNR set up for sale. SO with that said would a top mount still be enough to keep up with that turbo? 1200 bucks for that turbo and supporting mods is amazing.

Thanks for your time

I know there are some guys who have run an upgraded TMIC with their BNR set-up, I think @JgamB; or maybe it was @HawkeyeGeoff; (I dunno, I'm just randomly tagging people I think at this point to piss them off) so maybe one of them can shed some light on their set-up?

I've had both a CPe TMIC and currently running a Cobb FMIC. I wish I had my logs from when I had the CPe TMIC during my first tuning but sadly, they are gone. However, I can recall that in similiar heat and conditions (changed during the summer) I saw about 5-10 degree drop in BATs. Nothing earth shattering. I've seen people claiming like 20-40 degrees and honestly, I don't see it. So take it for what its worth. I also didn't immediately re-tune for the FMIC and didn't see any increased lag or if there was, it wasn't noticable. I honestly don't think we even increased power goals for the re-tune, it was more just making sure my AFRs and fuel trims looked fine.

I only made the switch since the Cobb FMIC came up stupid cheap, like $550 cheap with 2k miles on it. Coupled with the fact I didn't need to modify my crash bar and the core is good to 400HP, I said why not and got it. Make no mistake, if I had to pay full retail of the FMIC, I wouldn't have switched.

street unit is aids

I don't know how cobb sells kits for over 1000 new when you can build one with a awesome core for so cheap. I suppose the piping is better quality then a cx racing kits, but for 50% less and a treadstone core it's not a hard decision.

See I feel most people will say the same thing you just did. Small decrease in bats but nothing that will blow my mind.

right now i have a bnr s3 and a street unit tmic. I'm currently sitting at 326/365 on VD cf 1.01 and thats with a stock downpipe on straight 93 octane. It works perfectly fine and i've had no issues with the top mount aside from fitment. That being said i did just order a jbr fmic piping kit and tr6 core yesterday.

IIRC, the CX piping can be a little bit of a pain in the ass to install. The Cobb kit took less than 20 minutes to install. It honestly took me longer to remove my bumper. I also had a second pair of hands so that probably helped a bit but it honestly may have been the second easiest install I've ever done on my car (I'm azn as fuck so you can count on me destroying something during every install).

Also, and I'm doing this from memory, but I believe the CX kit doesn't have a mounting bracket for the top long peice so there is some play. Plenty of people run the CX kit with no issue but just something I know has been noted.

Again, wouldn't have pulled the trigger if it wasn't so cheap. Remember though, since the TR8 core is the popular go to, many people either need to cut the stock crashbar or get a new one which drives the price up. Cobb's mounts 100% to the stock crash bar with just some minor cutting of the undertray, which I believe is their justification, among other things, for why they price theirs so much higher than peice together kits.

And yeah, fuck SU.

First or second Gen? Tr6 for fitment? I built my package with the cx racing pipes and tr8 core...before hitting the purchase button I wanted to make sure I wouldn't have fitment issues. So if I do pull the trigger I want to be sure I get the proper core.

genpu. I went with the tr6 for fitment. I don't want to hack up my crash bar or remove it. With my luck id get in a front end accident and insurance won't cover it or something haha

Got cha,

I dread the whole bumper removal as I get frustrated easily and things start breaking. I actually ordered a Damond occ while I was building the fmic set up. Instructions state no bumper removal needed which will save me some headache.

As for the streetunit TMIC, the welds do look a little crappy but price was nice and it has done the job so far (knocks on wood)

My opinion, go TR6 if Gen2, TR8 if gen1; there are many very affordable piping kits. JBR's for the Gen1 is amazing; I just installed this on my roomies car ( @mole; )Saturday and it fits fantastic. I was very impressed particularly how good the instructions are and the easy easy EASY fit of the cold end.

Edit: I say this because 3/5 people that go upgraded TMIC end up going FMIC anyway.

So with that kit did you run into any mounting issues? Did the tr6 have the right mounting points etc?

EDIT- just noticed you have only ordered it not installed

This x100.

Good to know, thanks, glad I waited and checked here first.

For my PU, I just bought a few L brackets, drilled some holes and mounted that bitch (TR6 core) to the crash bar via 2 large hose clamps. Made it through several track days and that thing doesn't move. @maisonvi; does the same on his TR8 on the Juan. IMO if your core/kit doesn't come with mounting brackets, this is a very easy way to mount and it's rock solid.

Yea from looking at the original JBR thread a few people have installed the piping on a Pu with a tr6. RPM sells brackets for ~$30 that are meant for the tr6 and people ha e been using them. That's what I orderes


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Giant hose clamps FTW. And you doubted me when I told you to do it that way.

I'll never doubt you again, masta ;)

My 2¢ for TMIC upgrade vs FMIC - if you enjoy the drag strip or sit in a lot of stop and go traffic, get the front mount. If you do a lot of highway miles, the TMIC should get enough constant air flow to keep BATs reasonable.

My original plan was to keep the CS TMIC and add meth, but several people told me you wouldn't get the intake tract cooled from just the spray during a burnout, so FMIC it was. Thus far my peak temps during pulls are significantly lower near my shift point (6.2k) by ~20F. I also prefer to have the extra weight as far forward as possible for FWD.

FWIW, I've got a Beaner and an ETS TMIC. I have no interest in switching to a FMIC. I'll take the shorter route for the piping, the low pressure losses, instaspool, and lower number of potential leaks any day of the week.

Well fine, whatever...be logical with your approach..

My long term plan (if i still have this car by then) is bnr once the stock turbo goes, with fmic, but u may have convinced me to stay with my ets if that ever happens

I hate tapatalk 4.11

If you're only really interested in some back-roads driving, there's hardly any reason at all to go FMIC (except maybe to eke out every last bit of knock-less power/torque that your car can make). If you're going to the drag strip regularly and you have to sit in line forever between runs in hot weather, then yes. You should go with a FMIC.

My BATS by redline are up to 50* hotter than IATS by the 2nd-3rd pull. Several local nators are claiming 10-15* warmer by redline. I will be running my cpe tmic on my gtx3076 initially but have every intention of switching to fmic in the future.

Exactly what this man said, no matter what quality TMIC it will heat soak waiting in the lanes during drag meets. I had Corksport TMIC and went to ETS, the ETS picked up around 15 HP on an open road or non heat soaked with same tune.
At the drags ETS still heat soaked and even with meth couldn't get the BATS down until near the end of the run, FMIC brings the BATS down way quicker at WOT even when engine is heat soaked.
If dragging FMIC is a big advantage.

I've found the CS TMIC to be the least efficient of any of the intercoolers on the market. Just wanted to throw that out there for anyone comparing to it. The cp-e is by far the best unit, and this has been proven by a lot of the higher hp guys. Just my .02.

I hit the drag strip 1-2 times a season so I think sticking with my TMIC for now is probably best. I do most of my hard driving on the back roads into work. I keep it tame most other places as there is a large police presence here on any given day.

they both have their cons and pros like everything else, But go FMIC ust for the agressive look, plus lag would be minimal, TR6 core will suffice

Where are you getting the data to support that conclusion about CS vs CP-E?

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...40/index2.html

Yes, I've seen that thread, and Dale also found that the SU was more efficient that the CS. I think he was ko4 at the time of his tests too. On a ko4 car, gains may not be as significant than a BT catr. I also made that statement based off my own experience. I was running a CS tmic with my gtx3071, and literally hit a wall at 350-360 whp. I went from 23 psi to 26 psi with no significant increase in power. I put the cpe unit on, and boom, 400whp. Granted this is all VD logs, and have yet to get on a dyno. But still a dramatic difference. I also know of quite a few other members making good power on the cpe, like lakespeed made 445 on his ms6.

I'm sorry if anyone feels this information is false.

I'm not afraid of contrasting or contradicting conclusions, I just like to see the data rather than trust mere word of mouth.

Oh, I understand completely. If you want to PM me, I could provide you with those datalogs/VD graphs. Let's not derail this thread any further.