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 Old 02-14-2018, 10:43 AM   #1
 
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Default Suggested maintenance for 120k miles

Hey folks,

I'm looking for a list of things I should get done on my 2010 MS3 that's coming up on 120k miles. I am not at all mechanically inclined. I just want my car running problem free for as long as possible.

I bought the car from the dealer with 69k miles. I assume they did everything that needed to be done at that mileage. Since then I've just been doing oil and oil filter changes at the dealer every 5k miles along with tire rotation. Had rear shocks replaced and that's about it.

I asked the dealer what needed to be done and they sounded pretty clueless. They couldn't even give me a straight answer if spark plugs needed to be replaced. I have not done any tuning at all on this car.

I know I need brakes and rotors replaced but aside from that nothing is obvious to me. I checked the manual but it only goes up to 60k miles.

So far my list is:
oil and oil filter
tire rotation and possibly alignment
air filter
spark plugs



Please be as thorough as possible. I will be bringing it to the dealer to get everything done as I don't know anyone reliable near me (southern new england).
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 Old 02-14-2018, 11:00 AM   #2
 
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Originally Posted by spedster View Post
I asked the dealer what needed to be done and they sounded pretty clueless. They couldn't even give me a straight answer if spark plugs needed to be replaced. I have not done any tuning at all on this car.
Thats probably because they didn't replace shit on it. They don't usually replace anything on a used trade in unless it is serious because its just a waste of money to them.

Change the plugs anyway and for christ's sake don't take it to dealer...save yourself some the money and heartache and do it yourself. It really isn't that hard, a retarded chimp could do it. All it takes is a basic socket set and watching a youtube video if you've never done it before.

The correct stock plugs are NGK ILTR6A-8G (3787) gapped between 0.26 to 0.28.

Other than just plugs, if you're completely stock the only other thing I'd do is maybe change your trans fluid but thats about it.
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\\ JBR Solid RMM \\ AWR PMM \\ TRZ TMM \\ JBR PCV OCC \\ COBB SRI & TIP \\ CPE 3.25" TMIC \\ TurboXS 3" Catless DP \\ 3" Resonated Midpipe Back \\ Autotech HPFP Internals \\ Ford Transit Van Spin-on Oil Filter Adapter \\ Full EGR Delete \\ Throttle Body Coolant Bypass \\ Corksport Injector Seals \\ Greddy Type FV BPV \\

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 Old 02-14-2018, 12:03 PM   #3
 
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After maintenance, change out that rear motor mount for an aftermarket piece.
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 Old 02-14-2018, 12:17 PM   #4
 
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Originally Posted by flapjack View Post
Thats probably because they didn't replace shit on it. They don't usually replace anything on a used trade in unless it is serious because its just a waste of money to them.

Change the plugs anyway and for christ's sake don't take it to dealer...save yourself some the money and heartache and do it yourself. It really isn't that hard, a retarded chimp could do it. All it takes is a basic socket set and watching a youtube video if you've never done it before.

The correct stock plugs are NGK ILTR6A-8G (3787) gapped between 0.26 to 0.28.

Other than just plugs, if you're completely stock the only other thing I'd do is maybe change your trans fluid but thats about it.
Im probably about equal to a retarded chimp when it comes to this but Ill take a look at youtube and see. I remember hearing something about a timing chain(?) that tends to go in these cars, is that something to think about...not sure if that's what it is I could be way off. Thanks for the reply!

Originally Posted by Db09ms3 View Post
After maintenance, change out that rear motor mount for an aftermarket piece.
Is that something a retarded chimp could do as well? hehe

Last edited by spedster; 02-14-2018 at 12:17 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 02-14-2018, 12:29 PM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by spedster View Post
Im probably about equal to a retarded chimp
Great self esteem there bud. You should see some of the crackhead dropouts they actually hire at dealerships to do oil changes/plugs/tires. Still feel comfortable bringing it to them?

Originally Posted by spedster View Post
I remember hearing something about a timing chain
Timing chain related issues were limited to Gen1 (2007-2009). You should be fine.
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Tuning:
\\Cobb AP V3\\ Stratified Stage 3 E30 Mix S-OTS \\

Suspension/Brakes:
\\ BC Racing BR Type Coilovers \\ StopTech Street Pads F&R \\ Centric Drilled & Slotted Rotors \\ OZ Alleggerita Wheels 18x8 et48 \\
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 Old 02-14-2018, 12:29 PM   #6
 
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Hahaha, yes it is. As a fellow retarded chimp, it only took a few turns of a monkey wrench
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 Old 02-14-2018, 12:36 PM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by flapjack View Post
Great self esteem there bud. You should see some of the crackhead dropouts they actually hire at dealerships to do oil changes/plugs/tires. Still feel comfortable bringing it to them?
No you're absolutely, right. With all the easy to access information, I really have no excuse. Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.
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 Old 02-14-2018, 12:38 PM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by spedster View Post
No you're absolutely, right. With all the easy to access information, I really have no excuse. Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.
No problem man. If you ever need more in-depth help theres plenty of people on this forum that can point you in the right direction or give you answers.
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Engine:
\\ JBR Solid RMM \\ AWR PMM \\ TRZ TMM \\ JBR PCV OCC \\ COBB SRI & TIP \\ CPE 3.25" TMIC \\ TurboXS 3" Catless DP \\ 3" Resonated Midpipe Back \\ Autotech HPFP Internals \\ Ford Transit Van Spin-on Oil Filter Adapter \\ Full EGR Delete \\ Throttle Body Coolant Bypass \\ Corksport Injector Seals \\ Greddy Type FV BPV \\

Tuning:
\\Cobb AP V3\\ Stratified Stage 3 E30 Mix S-OTS \\

Suspension/Brakes:
\\ BC Racing BR Type Coilovers \\ StopTech Street Pads F&R \\ Centric Drilled & Slotted Rotors \\ OZ Alleggerita Wheels 18x8 et48 \\
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 Old 02-14-2018, 12:42 PM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by Db09ms3 View Post
Hahaha, yes it is. As a fellow retarded chimp, it only took a few turns of a monkey wrench
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 Old 02-14-2018, 04:22 PM   #10
 
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Originally Posted by flapjack View Post
No problem man. If you ever need more in-depth help theres plenty of people on this forum that can give you the finger or give you shit for not searching hard enough.
Fixed
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2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken (since Christmas 2015)
History:
2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen (With several runs past 180, I'd probably be dead by now if it wasn't stolen. So, in a way, I'm thankful.)
1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44) apex seals said buh bye!
1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers)
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 Old 02-14-2018, 08:32 PM   #11
 
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I'm new to this forum but not to working on my own cars. I would clean the air filter or replace it depending on the type of filter you have, replace the cabin filter, sparkplugs and serpentine belt, change out the coolant and transmission oil, check your brake pads and rotors for wear. 4 wheel alignment (optional).
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 Old 02-15-2018, 06:36 AM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by Mr. Felt View Post
I'm new to this forum but not to working on my own cars. I would clean the air filter or replace it depending on the type of filter you have, replace the cabin filter, sparkplugs and serpentine belt, change out the coolant and transmission oil, check your brake pads and rotors for wear. 4 wheel alignment (optional).
Thanks for the info! Is the serpentine belt something to only replace if it looks like it needs to be or is it something that definitely needs to be at this mileage?
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 Old 02-15-2018, 07:46 AM   #13
 
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It's cheap enough that if you've never replaced it, just go ahead and do it.
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2006 MS6 GT - 152k Miles
Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22's
CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount
White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB
Russian Bushings in Back, Magnaflow CBE
JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D
Damond RMM/PMM/Stage 2 OCC
Puppy Power tuning temporarily suspended.
Forged build ongoing. Manley H-Tuff & 2618, King Bearings

Other rides:
2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD - 355k mile Parts Getter
2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken (since Christmas 2015)
History:
2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen (With several runs past 180, I'd probably be dead by now if it wasn't stolen. So, in a way, I'm thankful.)
1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44) apex seals said buh bye!
1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers)
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 Old 02-15-2018, 08:01 AM   #14
 
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I agree with Fstrnyou, at 120K go ahead and replace it now and don't worry about it for another 80-100K miles
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 Old 02-15-2018, 08:06 AM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
It's cheap enough that if you've never replaced it, just go ahead and do it.
Originally Posted by Mr. Felt View Post
I agree with Fstrnyou, at 120K go ahead and replace it now and don't worry about it for another 80-100K miles

Thanks!
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 Old 02-15-2018, 09:06 AM   #16
 
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@spedster;

Where in southern New England are you? We have plenty of good people in NATOR New England that can definitely help you. Post up in NATOR New England section.
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 Old 02-15-2018, 09:10 AM   #17
 
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Originally Posted by KiwiFlavor View Post
@spedster;

Where in southern New England are you? We have plenty of good people in NATOR New England that can definitely help you. Post up in NATOR New England section.
Im in northern RI
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 Old 02-15-2018, 09:14 AM   #18
 
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There are a few people about an hour away from you. @Lakespeed6; @brandonnicholson; @davros; @codedoc;
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 Old 02-15-2018, 10:59 AM   #19
 
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When I first got this car I didn’t know shit about working on cars other than changing a tire or an oil change. This forum literally taught me everything I know and all the mods in my sig were done by me. This car has never been to a shop to get worked on except once and that’s because I had a warped flange on the exhaust that needed to be cut off and rewelded.
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 Old 02-15-2018, 11:33 AM   #20
 
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Originally Posted by Djohns View Post
When I first got this car I didn’t know shit about working on cars other than changing a tire or an oil change. This forum literally taught me everything I know and all the mods in my sig were done by me. This car has never been to a shop to get worked on except once and that’s because I had a warped flange on the exhaust that needed to be cut off and rewelded.
I actually just looked up some videos on doing brakes and rotors. It actually looks very easy. The dealer quoted me $960, lol. Now just need to find what brakes and rotors to get.. Since it's just a daily driver for me I'm leaning towards OEM.
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 Old 02-15-2018, 11:35 AM   #21
 
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Originally Posted by spedster View Post
I actually just looked up some videos on doing brakes and rotors. It actually looks very easy. The dealer quoted me $960, lol. Now just need to find what brakes and rotors to get.. Since it's just a daily driver for me I'm leaning towards OEM.
Na forget OEM, too expensive. Just get some centric blank rotors and pad of your choice like a EBC variant or hawk 5.0 or whatever suits you. Fine for DD and far cheaper than oem.
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 Old 02-15-2018, 11:41 AM   #22
 
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I haven't done rotors yet but I put some StopTech, I think, evolution z23 or some shit on the back. They are some sort of performance street pad. They seldom/occasionally squeal like a racing pad might do under lite braking, but it's nothing annoying. They seem to perform well I guess. Hard to really tell being that it's the rear. I'll be putting the same pad on the front when I get around to it.
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 Old 02-15-2018, 11:59 AM   #23
 
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Originally Posted by spedster View Post
I actually just looked up some videos on doing brakes and rotors. It actually looks very easy. The dealer quoted me $960, lol. Now just need to find what brakes and rotors to get.. Since it's just a daily driver for me I'm leaning towards OEM.
Aaahhhh now you can see what I was talking about.

Honestly for the rotors just get cheap oem style blanks, they're only like $20 on rockauto. For pads I'd recommend the StopTech Streets.
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 Old 02-15-2018, 12:12 PM   #24
 
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Right here!

KNS Brakes

But if you want to piece them together, get Centric blanks premium for rotors. For pads, I'm not sure as I haven't changed mine yet but I got Stoptech ready to install.

I heard Hawk HPS+ are also good pads.


EDIT:

Check this out lol


EDIT 2:

Rockauto has all the centric rotors for $193 shipped.
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 Old 02-15-2018, 06:04 PM   #25
 
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If you're going to replace your brake pads, you will need to rent a Piston Brake Caliper Compressor tool. The more your brake pads are worn, the more the brake caliper piston is pushed out of the caliper. The tool pushes your brake piston back into the caliper so you will have room to put on the newer and thicker brake pads.

Autozone rents Piston Brake Caliper Compressor for free. Autozone charges you $60 for a deposit and when you return the tool, they credit $60 back to your credit card.
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 Old 02-15-2018, 06:40 PM   #26
 
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Or you can use a C clamp. Works just as well.
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 Old 02-16-2018, 05:21 AM   #27
 
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Thanks for all the info about parts. I've seen centric blanks mentioned quite a bit so I think I'll get those.

Do I want economy on rockauto? front
rear

For pads Ill have to do a bit more research. Im not sure what preferences I really have as I never paid much attention to brakes aside from them working. I guess things I care about are price, they work, and they don't make noise.

edit: just saw kiwiflavor recommended premium and not economy for rotors

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 Old 02-16-2018, 08:49 AM   #28
 
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Autoanything has a good selection of brake rotors and pads for the MS3.

Brakes, Rotors & Pads - Upgrade Your Brakes - FREE SHIPPING!
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 Old 02-21-2018, 04:22 AM   #29
 
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I'm about to purchase brakes and rotors (front and rear) for my 2010 ms3. I'm pretty much settled on centric premium rotors. Should I be getting the high carbon version?

For brake pads I'm not too sure. Pads I've seen talked about the most are:

EBC yellow, reds
Hawk HPS
Stoptech performance
ATE pads

The Hawk HPS seem to have the most complaints, the stoptech performance pads have a "not for daily driving" warning on knsbrakes, and the ATE pads, though many people seem to really like them in the thread back from 2011 I can't seem to find them anywhere.

I'm not really sure what preference I have aside from wanting them to be quiet and I guess minimal dust would be a bonus. I see discussion about "initial bite" and "linear feel" but I've only ever just driven on OEM pads and never had a problem with them. Again this is just a daily driver.

I guess I'm currently leaning towards EBC red, which I understand is more of the daily driver pad vs yellow which is more of a track pad, but was hoping for some more opinions before I go for it.
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 Old 02-21-2018, 06:08 AM   #30
 
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Unless you plan on tracking the car every weekend just get normal rotors. The high carbons are supposedly better for wear when using really aggressive (high friction) pads, but for normal daily driving just get normal ones.

Go EBC Red for low dust/noise. Some say they don't have the "intital bite" like oem but once they warm up provide alot of stopping power.
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 Old 02-21-2018, 06:46 AM   #31
 
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Originally Posted by flapjack View Post
Unless you plan on tracking the car every weekend just get normal rotors.
By normal do you mean the centric c-tek?
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 Old 02-21-2018, 07:38 AM   #32
 
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Fronts for the 3:
C-Tek...............31.79
Premium.........49.79
High Carbon...56.79

Your only choices here are C-Tek or High Carbon as they are only a few bucks more than premium.

I recall back in the day when racing Factory 5's, we tried the cheap Mustang rotors from AdvanceAuto. Those things warped and cracked like a MFer very quickly. Ya I know, race vs street isn't fair, but cheap rotors are cheap. I lean towards a more premium rotor and in this case, High Carbon.
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 Old 02-21-2018, 08:08 AM   #33
 
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Originally Posted by kTaLgsTo View Post
Or you can use a C clamp. Works just as well.
I have a big wooden woodworking clamp that I keep around solely for this purpose.

Although for the rear pads you will need to get the special tool. It's a screw-in caliper instead of a sliding piston. Harbor freight has the kit for like $20, or you can just rent it from AutoZone or similar.
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 Old 02-21-2018, 10:30 AM   #34
 
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I went with the Centric high carbon rotors and Centric posi-quiet pads. No squealing, excellent stopping power and a firm brake pedal. 3 things that I want in my brakes.
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 Old 02-22-2018, 03:04 PM   #35
 
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If you want to drive to Central MA we can do everything in my driveway if you're not confident in doing them on your own. I have all tools needed for brakes too.
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 Old 02-23-2018, 05:48 AM   #36
 
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Originally Posted by brandonnicholson View Post
If you want to drive to Central MA we can do everything in my driveway if you're not confident in doing them on your own. I have all tools needed for brakes too.
Thanks for the offer but I think I'm going to give it a go. All the videos I've watched seem thorough enough and straightforward. It really doesn't look too bad.
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 Old 02-23-2018, 06:24 AM   #37
 
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Yeah most of it is really simple and you'll be surprised at how easy it is. If you ever need help though, I bet any auto parts store or race shop could give you advice or walk you through the basics if you give them a call. I used to work at Advance back in the day and we always had people call in to ask how to do stuff.

For anything specific to our cars I would come here for answers though. Where are you located?
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 Old 02-23-2018, 10:39 AM   #38
 
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Originally Posted by flapjack View Post
Yeah most of it is really simple and you'll be surprised at how easy it is. If you ever need help though, I bet any auto parts store or race shop could give you advice or walk you through the basics if you give them a call. I used to work at Advance back in the day and we always had people call in to ask how to do stuff.

For anything specific to our cars I would come here for answers though. Where are you located?
Northern RI
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 Old 03-06-2018, 06:37 AM   #39
 
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Ended up doing front brakes and rotors last weekend and I'm glad I did. It was super easy and was nice knowing exactly what is being done to my car. I plan on doing everything else in the coming weeks. Cheers!
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 Old 03-07-2018, 04:04 AM   #40
 
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Glad to hear it! It's always nice when a job goes smoothly and boosts your confidence. We all go through it; some people here are just on a different level.
Good luck with future jobs. Remember we're always here to help.
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