Taking a little different approach with my gen 2.
 

What's up guys. So I been reading a lot on here about everyones experience with modifications and all that and I really did learn a shit ton about my 10' and am still learning. And I WILL BE DONATING tomorrow when I get paid I love this forum. I don't necessarily wanna put a bunch of performance mods on my car just yet. I just bought it with 45,000 miles bone stock. For right now I wanna kinda keep it that way without doing too much. I didn't wanna post this in the build diaries because of what I seen lol.
But what I'm thinking about doing is....(no specific brands have been decided)

- oil catch can
- RMM
- swap tranny fluid
- short shift plate
- I want some sound preferably CBE but not exactly sure if that's cool without doing any other mods.

I would most def appreciate any and all feedback about brands. I've read up and researched a little about each thing I want to do and was hoping for some input from you guys to help me out!! Thanks!!!


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All of those would be fantastic first mods. A CBE will be fine with both cats on the vehicle still. You won't really see much performance gain from it though as the vehicle sits.

If you are mechanically inclined, a valve cleaning would be in order at your mileage as well.

I would also suggest a Cobb AP even if you are staying stock (Just flash Stage 0). Even the OTS maps are miles ahead of the stock tune.

When you do get ready to do flow mods (Intake, inlet pipe, intercooler, downpipe, test pipe etc) I'm sure you don't need me telling you to invest in HPFP internals before you start going down that path. Otherwise, keep it classy and :fyhn: :)

Also, I just noticed you are from MI! @mole; @LynzeC; stop by the NATOR MI is Back Thread, say hi and introduce yourself! We are a very active chapter!

RMM is a must, it helps significantly and is an easy install. I wouldn't do any power mods without first purchasing a High Pressure Fuel Pump so I'd nix the cat back exhaust for the time being. It's kind of a pointless mod on its own unless you just want MOAR LOUD. Swapping the transmission fluid will help your shifts but so will new shifter bushings. You might also want to get a short shift plate or short shifter replacement. As far as brands are concerned, check out Corksport, Cobb, and JBR.

+1 to this.

you can do a catback, its just a lot of money for little to no performance benefit. i had a short shift plate at one point, and i loved it around town until i missed 3rd every time i drove it hard. once i went back to stock and had to adjust my shifter cable i havent missed a gear since.

If i were you i would do a RMM, Ford Motorcraft xt-m5-qs tranny fluid, intake, and get your resonator cut out at a muffler shop. I would choose these mods from personal experience. after that for more power it would be fuel pump internals and a cobb accessport.

for brands just go with companies very involved in our platform, just look through the vendors on here.

great start though enjoy your stay here

Before all that HPFP and Cobb AP first than do w/e you want

Interesting, I can't say I've had that issue.

i just drove another car i was tuning a few weeks ago and had the same exact issue, it reminded me why i hated it so much. not sure how hard/fast you ever try to shift but i'd say half the time i get locked out. I've spoken with a bunch of others with similar issues.

Id say I'm mechanically inclined enough to do a valve cleaning but I recently had some extensive surgery on my wrist and don't necessarily want to perform the job. I don't want to take it to the dealer for that but now that you said that I feel I should get it taken care of for precautionary measures lol.

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Nah. I wouldn't worry about it until you can do it yourself; it's a fairly lengthy procedure but not at all hard. It would cost booko bucks at a dealer and I wouldn't trust them to do it correctly. @maisonvi; and I pumped it out in about 4 hours while doing a front mount install as well.

Don't be afraid to ask NATOR MI any questions....we wont flame you like others will since you're our own ;) hahaha

I agree. I hated my SSP. I went back to stock everything shifting wise minus the bushings. I actually love it lol. The motor mounts help A LOT with this.

That sounds good man thats what I was thinking. But should I even bother with the SRI if I don't plan on internals anytime soon??

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Its generally regarded that you can have one flow mod without any problems. The intake will net you some power too with a proper map from a Cobb ap of course.


Sent while granny shiftin' and not double clutching like I should

the SRI will net you a few ponies and hook you up with awesome turbo sounds. what the point of having a turbo if you cant hear it or the bypass valve?

On that note, donate so you can see the for sale threads!! Stupid cheap compared to new!


Sent while granny shiftin' and not double clutching like I should

Awesome that sounds good. I was just paranoid about throwing a stupid lean code I was gonna stay away from it for now. That's another question I forgot about! Should I bother with a BPV?

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For sure I will tomorrow!!

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Your BPV will be able to hold up to ~20-21 psi. I wouldn't worry about replacing this until you are at least farther down the line with flow mods.

You'll be good intake with stock hpfp. Stock bpv actually works great if it isn't leaking I've left the stocker on both my speeds

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If you have wrist issues, I would hold off on the OCC install until you're healed as you will have to get your hands in a very cramped space. I have the JBR Stage 2 can and it's been working great for me. It's a quality piece, as any other JBR product I've installed. I empty it out every oil change.

In Michigan "every oil change" interval would be closer to every two weeks. In the winter months, sometimes once a week. Just a heads up.

Fair enough. I empty a few ounces every 2800-3100 miles (2-3 months). This should be more useful.

Wait what?!?!?!?!? Lol every two weeks??

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I was a firm believer in leaving the stock bpv alone...until I replaced mine...see below for what the damn stock valve was doing to me! That being said, I am 20+ psi.

Depends on your drive cycle. If you drive short distances often, especially in cold climates (AKA Le' Tundra that is Michigan), you will find yourself with a lot of condensation build up. The summer will be closer to every couple months.

@maisonvi; this makes me question that leak at my BPV we found lol. Maybe time to trade up to a new BPV.

Results clearly showed that my stocker could not hold over 20 psi. The gfb bov then proceeded to act like a sloot (ask @rfinkle2; about the headaches it caused), but I have had great results from the Cobb I have now.

Iiiiiirrrrrrrelevant haha this dudes stock and has no means to tune. He's not losing anything

Hence me stating that I'm 20+ psi.

Yeah im gonna put the BPV on hold for now lol. But all good info thanks a lot fellas!!






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same thing happens in my car. drives me up a fuckin wall!! I ordered the CS STS so we will see how it performs over my current SSP.

Dang well it looks like I'll be staying away from the SSP for now too lol. I dont mind the stock anyways i actually kinda like it

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i did shifter bushings, a heavier round knob, and took off my shifter weight and it feels amazing. i've done quite a few combos at this point and i'm finally happy where its at. after removing the shifter weight i can feel it go into gear better which is a big part on why i've never missed a gear since doing it. originally i hated the feel of this shifter/tranny since i came from a toyota, but I am satisfied with it now

I'm generally pretty aggressive, I'll have to try and recreate it. Which one were you using?

Mine is the opposite, I've gone lighter, and gone no weight. Hard as hell to shift.

I put my stock weight back on and was considering putting a heavier weight.

I also extended the shaft, on top of having the TWM replacement.

original jbr with the extension

I run jbr ssp small weight and really light knob. I like the notchiness

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Welcome sir!

As @HawkeyeGeoff; said, be sure to check out the NATOR MI section and check out the NATOR MI is back thread as well as our calendar thread.

We will have some meets this summer and would love for you to come out. @mole; is your chapter lead for the east side and I am the chapter lead for the west side. So sorry for you, but pants aren't allowed on the east side.

In before @maisonvi; +1

Welcome Brochacho! There's not much else to say since you've gone and done your homework before it was due! Glad to have ya in the grand state of michigan!

We will be having a lot more meets in the summer so keep an eye on the calendar thread in the NATOR MI section (which you'll have to donate to see). We're a good bunch up here in the north so feel free to ask us any questions you want and we'll gently guide you to the right place. And by "gently" I mean dragged kicking and screaming to a torture dungeon where we'll teach you how to do research properly... Ok we're not that bad, really. Enjoy the forum and the speed!

Whats up fellas! Yeah i was wondering why i couldnt find the NATOR





What's up fellas! Yeah I was wondering why I couldnt find the NATOR MI thread lol. I gotta donate today and hop on there and check everything out!

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just get an intake from one of the sponsors of the site. i personally had the cs stage2 intake, good piece for the money and the maf housing is basically identical to stock so u don't need to worry about throwing a code. most of the intakes for this car are accurately made to the stock maf housing

Sounds like a plan! Im gonna donate tonight when I'm bored as hell at work hahahaha

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i went with the jbr sri + tip
sounds awesome, looks awesome (got the white one)

I may end up going cold air in the future but I don't have anywhere that I can work on my car right now really. will get out of the army in 3 months so maybe then.

I would recommend the cpe cbe. I think it sounds the best and you can't go wrong with cpe :)

Don't go cai. I hate mine (cpe). There are no worthwhile gains for the cost. Just go bigger SRI.

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